The wall is ceramic tile, drywall, foam, and then 12" concrete block (I can't detect any hollow). I have a 12" long masonry bit but the total wall is something like 18 inches!
Is there a way of detecting where the drill is located from the outside (after maxing the depth from the inside)?
I was wondering about studfinders that can detect live wires and metal studs or a non-contact voltage detector and connecting a live wire to the bit or rod...any thoughts on this?
Thanks!
Bob_V

Bob_Villa wrote:
The wall is ceramic tile, drywall, foam, and then 12" concrete block (I
can't detect any hollow). I have a 12" long masonry bit but the total
wall is something like 18 inches!
Is there a way of detecting where the drill is located from the outside
(after maxing the depth from the inside)?
I was wondering about studfinders that can detect live wires and metal
studs or a non-contact voltage detector and connecting a live wire to the
bit or rod...any thoughts on this?
Thanks!
Bob_V

Cut a metal hanger, sharpen the point and chuck it into your drill. Drill
the max depth with the masonry bit and then use the wire to complete the
hole.

A hanger will go through both wood and block. BTDT

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 7:05:52 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Bob_Villa wrote:

The wall is ceramic tile, drywall, foam, and then 12" concrete block (I

can't detect any hollow). I have a 12" long masonry bit but the total

wall is something like 18 inches!

Is there a way of detecting where the drill is located from the outside

(after maxing the depth from the inside)?

I was wondering about studfinders that can detect live wires and metal

studs or a non-contact voltage detector and connecting a live wire to the

bit or rod...any thoughts on this?

Thanks!

Bob_V



Cut a metal hanger, sharpen the point and chuck it into your drill. Drill

the max depth with the masonry bit and then use the wire to complete the

hole.



A hanger will go through both wood and block. BTDT

Or just buy a longer drill bit.....

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 6:05:52 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Bob_Villa wrote:

The wall is ceramic tile, drywall, foam, and then 12" concrete block (I

can't detect any hollow). I have a 12" long masonry bit but the total

wall is something like 18 inches!

Is there a way of detecting where the drill is located from the outside

(after maxing the depth from the inside)?

I was wondering about studfinders that can detect live wires and metal

studs or a non-contact voltage detector and connecting a live wire to the

bit or rod...any thoughts on this?

Thanks!

Bob_V



Cut a metal hanger, sharpen the point and chuck it into your drill. Drill

the max depth with the masonry bit and then use the wire to complete the

hole.



A hanger will go through both wood and block. BTDT

Seriously? Do you use HS (I know you don't use hammer-setting!)?

DerbyDad03 wrote:

Bob_Villa wrote:
The wall is ceramic tile, drywall, foam, and then 12" concrete block (I
can't detect any hollow). I have a 12" long masonry bit but the total
wall is something like 18 inches!
Is there a way of detecting where the drill is located from the outside
(after maxing the depth from the inside)?
I was wondering about studfinders that can detect live wires and metal
studs or a non-contact voltage detector and connecting a live wire to the
bit or rod...any thoughts on this?
Thanks!
Bob_V

Cut a metal hanger, sharpen the point and chuck it into your drill. Drill
the max depth with the masonry bit and then use the wire to complete the
hole.

A hanger will go through both wood and block. BTDT

If the block has the cored grouted (cemented) it aint' going through. An
extension for the bit should do the job if the hole size is at least
5/8" or so.

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 5:58:21 AM UTC-5, Bob_Villa wrote:
The wall is ceramic tile, drywall, foam, and then 12" concrete block (I can't detect any hollow). I have a 12" long masonry bit but the total wall is something like 18 inches! Is there a way of detecting where the drill is located from the outside (after maxing the depth from the inside)? I was wondering about studfinders that can detect live wires and metal studs or a non-contact voltage detector and connecting a live wire to the bit or rod...any thoughts on this? Thanks! Bob_V

An extension holder for the bit is not that expensive, assuming you have a decent hardware store within 20 miles or so.

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 9:23:15 AM UTC-5, Pete C. wrote:


If the block has the cored grouted (cemented) it aint' going through. An

extension for the bit should do the job if the hole size is at least

5/8" or so.

1/4 in. so I'm limited unless I go larger...

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 10:10:46 AM UTC-5, Bob_Villa wrote:
On Thursday, August 1, 2013 9:23:15 AM UTC-5, Pete C. wrote:





If the block has the cored grouted (cemented) it aint' going through. An



extension for the bit should do the job if the hole size is at least



5/8" or so.



1/4 in. so I'm limited unless I go larger...

Has anyone taken the carbide end off...and silver-soldered it to a slotted rod?

"Bob_Villa" wrote in message
...
The wall is ceramic tile, drywall, foam, and then 12" concrete block (I
can't detect any hollow). I have a 12" long masonry bit but the total wall
is something like 18 inches!
Is there a way of detecting where the drill is located from the outside
(after maxing the depth from the inside)?
I was wondering about studfinders that can detect live wires and metal
studs or a non-contact voltage detector and connecting a live wire to the
bit or rod...any thoughts on this?
Thanks!
Bob_V

If you have an electric welder, weld a bit of rod on and extend the drill.
You might have to bash it about a bit to get it straight.

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 11:52:55 AM UTC-4, Bob_Villa wrote:
On Thursday, August 1, 2013 10:10:46 AM UTC-5, Bob_Villa wrote:

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 9:23:15 AM UTC-5, Pete C. wrote:











If the block has the cored grouted (cemented) it aint' going through. An







extension for the bit should do the job if the hole size is at least







5/8" or so.







1/4 in. so I'm limited unless I go larger...



Has anyone taken the carbide end off...and silver-soldered it to a slotted rod?

Silver solder won't hold up.

Start on the outside and drill a test hole to see if the block is hollow. If it is, drill your outside hole and use a piece of wire to figure out how far you are from the sides of the hollow space in the block. Then you should be able to use a tape measure to hit the same hollow from inside. The holes won't be exactly opposite but probably close enough. You can make the outside hole a bit bigger to help. Then get that concrete patch in a caulk style tube to "grout" the hole after you run what ever it is you want to run through it.

jamesgang writes:

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 11:52:55 AM UTC-4, Bob_Villa wrote:
On Thursday, August 1, 2013 10:10:46 AM UTC-5, Bob_Villa wrote:

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 9:23:15 AM UTC-5, Pete C. wrote:

If the block has the cored grouted (cemented) it aint' going through. An
extension for the bit should do the job if the hole size is at least
5/8" or so.

1/4 in. so I'm limited unless I go larger...

Has anyone taken the carbide end off...and silver-soldered it to a slotted rod?

Silver solder won't hold up.

Start on the outside and drill a test hole to see if the block is
hollow. If it is, drill your outside hole and use a piece of wire to
figure out how far you are from the sides of the hollow space in the
block. Then you should be able to use a tape measure to hit the same
hollow from inside. The holes won't be exactly opposite but probably
close enough. You can make the outside hole a bit bigger to help.
Then get that concrete patch in a caulk style tube to "grout" the hole
after you run what ever it is you want to run through it.

What's with all the half-assed measures?

Get a longer drill.

--
Dan Espen

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 1:21:34 PM UTC-5, net cop wrote:
jamesgang writes:



On Thursday, August 1, 2013 11:52:55 AM UTC-4, Bob_Villa wrote:

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 10:10:46 AM UTC-5, Bob_Villa wrote:



On Thursday, August 1, 2013 9:23:15 AM UTC-5, Pete C. wrote:



If the block has the cored grouted (cemented) it aint' going through. An

extension for the bit should do the job if the hole size is at least

5/8" or so.



1/4 in. so I'm limited unless I go larger...



Has anyone taken the carbide end off...and silver-soldered it to a slotted rod?



Silver solder won't hold up.



Start on the outside and drill a test hole to see if the block is

hollow. If it is, drill your outside hole and use a piece of wire to

figure out how far you are from the sides of the hollow space in the

block. Then you should be able to use a tape measure to hit the same

hollow from inside. The holes won't be exactly opposite but probably

close enough. You can make the outside hole a bit bigger to help.

Then get that concrete patch in a caulk style tube to "grout" the hole

after you run what ever it is you want to run through it.



What's with all the half-assed measures?



Get a longer drill.



--

Dan Espen

You probably mean drill bit...Mr. other half of the ass!

"Bob_Villa" wrote in message

The wall is ceramic tile, drywall, foam, and then 12"
concrete block (I can't detect any hollow). I have a 12"
long masonry bit but the total wall is something like 18
inches!
Is there a way of detecting where the drill is located
from the outside (after maxing the depth from the
inside)?

So If you are unlucky and hit a web you lack 6" of depth in the concrete
block; if not on a web, maybe 1 1/2". For that, you could take a steel
rod, shape the end some and bang away with a hammer. Ultimately, you'll
probably pop out a sizeable chunk.

As far as going from the other side, how accurately can you drill and
measure?


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Bob_Villa writes:

On Thursday, August 1, 2013 1:21:34 PM UTC-5, net cop wrote:
jamesgang writes:

What's with all the half-assed measures?

Get a longer drill.

You probably mean drill bit...Mr. other half of the ass!

Just for the record, I did not call you an ass did I?

Do what you want.

--
Dan Espen