Hi

I am going to use this panel

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/lp-s...c-panel/935905


which exterior grade paint do you recommend to protect the siding from winter moisture from inside the house collecting on the back side of the new siding.
I basically want to paint the back side of the new siding with an exterior grade paint just to protect it from any moisture that may collect during the cold winter months.


Should I paint the plywood too? just to protect them .. just in case.

Thanks.

"leza wang" wrote in message
...
Hi

I am going to use this panel

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/lp-s...c-panel/935905


which exterior grade paint do you recommend to protect the siding from
winter moisture from inside the house collecting on the back side of the
new siding.
I basically want to paint the back side of the new siding with an
exterior grade paint just to protect it from any moisture that may
collect during the cold winter months.


Should I paint the plywood too? just to protect them .. just in case.

Thanks.

UGH! LP= Louisiana Pacific. Look up Louisiana Pacific class action. Yes,
it was settled years ago, and I suppose in another 10 years or so, there
will be another class action for their so called "smart siding".

Stay away from the 3/8" composite, go to a lumber store and get 5/8" T1-11
ply.

On Monday, July 22, 2013 2:55:35 PM UTC-4, Russ N. wrote:
"leza wang" wrote in message

...

Hi



I am going to use this panel



http://www.homedepot.ca/product/lp-s...c-panel/935905





which exterior grade paint do you recommend to protect the siding from

winter moisture from inside the house collecting on the back side of the

new siding.

I basically want to paint the back side of the new siding with an

exterior grade paint just to protect it from any moisture that may

collect during the cold winter months.





Should I paint the plywood too? just to protect them .. just in case.



Thanks.



UGH! LP= Louisiana Pacific. Look up Louisiana Pacific class action. Yes,

it was settled years ago, and I suppose in another 10 years or so, there

will be another class action for their so called "smart siding".



Stay away from the 3/8" composite, go to a lumber store and get 5/8" T1-11

ply.


I had never heard about this "smart siding" product until now and
was wondering about it myself. For sure T1-11 is widely used and would
be a safe choice. As for painting the backside, I don't think anyone
in mainstream construction is doing that. If the siding is properly
installed, water should not be getting behind it. It wouldn't hurt, but
it's extra work and extra cost.

"leza wang" wrote in message
...
Hi
I am going to use this panel
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/lp-s...c-panel/935905
which exterior grade paint do you recommend to protect the siding from
winter moisture
from inside the house collecting on the back side of the new siding.
I basically want to paint the back side of the new siding with an exterior
grade paint just to protect
it from any moisture that may collect during the cold winter months.
Should I paint the plywood too? just to protect them .. just in case.
Thanks.

It is Treated with proprietary SmartGuard®
process to help resist rot and termite damage
And yes you can paint the back side it ok

But all put Tyvek _Weatherization
between house and plywood siding


http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weather..._homewrap.html

On Mon, 22 Jul 2013 14:55:35 -0400, "Russ N." wrote:

Stay away from the 3/8" composite, go to a lumber store and get 5/8" T1-11
ply.

I bet the faux brick she pulled down was thin ~ 1/2 inch.

Skip the 3/8 inch and go with the 5/8 inch wood you mention.

It gives a better isolation, ER, insulation value to the home... easy
to paint / stain later.

The whole idea behind painting the back side of the siding is to prevent the wooden siding from absorbing frost melt in the spring time.

Modern houses are built a lot more air tight than older homes, but even in modern houses there are places where warm moist air escapes into the exterior walls and forms frost. Come spring time, that frost melts and that melt water would otherwise be absorbed by the bare wood on the back of the siding. As that moisture wants to evaporate to the outside, it causes the paint to peel on the exterior painted surface of the siding.

Painting the back side of the siding with a latex paint allows the melt water trapped in the wall to evaporate through the painted wood, but doesn't allow the wood to absorb liquid water. (H2O molecules in the form of humidity pass relatively easily through both latex paint and wood. Water, however, will not pass easily through latex paint. That's because the average distance between H2O molecules in liquid water is much larger than the spaces between the plastic paint molecules. So, for WATER to pass through latex paint, the holes have to be big larger than the average distance between H2O molecules in liquid water, which is very much greater than the size of H2O molecules.)

The plastic binders used to make latex paints that allow H2O molecules to pass through them the easiest are used to make MASONARY paints. Such paints protect masonary walls by allowing the moisture in them to evaporate quickly, thereby preventing freeze/thaw damage.

If it were me, I would buy any INTERIOR or EXTERIOR or MASONARY latex paint that's been mistinted to the wrong colour for $10 per gallon.

Exterior latex paint is essentially interior latex paint to which mildewcides and UV blockers have been added. On the back side of the siding, you're not going to need UV blockers in the paint because it'll never see daylight. And, you really don't need the mildewcides either because it's only going to be in early spring that there's water inside that wall. Mildew needs WATER to grow, not frost. And, for most of the spring, summer and fall, the interior of the wall will be dry enough that mildew wouldn't grow in there.

So, I'd use a mistint, but I'd buy the masonary paint mistint before the exterior paint mistint, and I'd buy the exterior paint mistint before the interior paint mistint, cut the masonary paint would work best here, followed by the exterior paint, but the interior latex would still work fine.

" wrote:


I had never heard about this "smart siding" product until now and
was wondering about it myself. For sure T1-11 is widely used and would
be a safe choice. As for painting the backside, I don't think anyone
in mainstream construction is doing that. If the siding is properly
installed, water should not be getting behind it. It wouldn't hurt, but
it's extra work and extra cost.

The sheds you see in Home Depot's parking lots use the LP smart siding.
It's OSB, impregnated with a zinc borate compound to ward off fungus and
insects, and one faced milled to look like rough sawn T1-11. The trim is
basically the same material and it comes pre-primed.

Here's the shed I got for $250 as an open box item:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps1468c1dc.jpg

I also bought the shingles as open packs for $10 a bundle. Even after
buying everything that doesn't come with the shed kit (flooring, roofing,
etc.) and buying extra wood for sill plates and other upgrade items, I
spent less than the regular price of the shed kit alone.

On Monday, July 22, 2013 12:49:08 PM UTC-5, leza wang wrote:
Hi I am going to use this panel http://www.homedepot.ca/product/lp-s...c-panel/935905 which exterior grade paint do you recommend to protect the siding from winter moisture from inside the house collecting on the back side of the new siding. I basically want to paint the back side of the new siding with an exterior grade paint just to protect it from any moisture that may collect during the cold winter months. Should I paint the plywood too? just to protect them .. just in case. Thanks.

Leza needs to get her terminology correct. What she calls "plywood" on the existing house is not plywood, it is OSB or particle board from what her potos show. If she asks at Home Depot or any hardware store about painting plywood, that may get her a different answer than if she asks about painting OSB.