I'm building a cabin and plan to use that T11 siding. If you dont know
what that is, it's plywood with vertical grooves to make it look like
individual boards. In some ways, it's similar to paneling except for
exterior use.

Anyhow, the sheets are 4x8 foot, just like regular plywood. The walls
will be 8 ft. so on the side walls these sheets will cover right to the
roof overhang. The problem is that on the end walls, where there is a
gable, I will have a horizontal joint where the wall sheets meet the
sheets on the gable. I really dont like the idea of just butting the
sheets together, because water will get in, which will not only cause
decay of the plywood ovfer time, but also get inside the walls.

I've considered applying a bead of silicone caulk to the joint before
placing the sheets in place, but there is no guarantee that I'll get
100% of them sealed, not to mention that I intend to apply a paint or
wood stain when the walls are complete, and I know well that paints do
not adhere to silicone caulk.

However, I'm wondering if there is some sort of material made
specifically for this use? I'm aware that when butting together some
pole barn steel, they sell a special metal trim (divider) piece that
sits under the upper sheet and has a lip over the lower sheet. I've
already considered using that same metal piece, and just getting a color
similar to that color I intend to paint the siding. This will at least
keep water out of the walls, but that upper sheet's lower edge will
still get moisture. I suppose I could paint that lower edge before
applying it to seal the wood. I think this is preferred to just using
caulk. However, I'm wondering if there is a specific material made for
this purpose? Anyone know?

Note: I asked the clerk at the "big box" store about this, and the "kid"
had no clue what I was talking about. I figured it was a waste of time
to even ask, but I tried.....

Thanks

wrote:
I'm building a cabin and plan to use that T11 siding. If you dont know
what that is, it's plywood with vertical grooves to make it look like
individual boards. In some ways, it's similar to paneling except for
exterior use.

Anyhow, the sheets are 4x8 foot, just like regular plywood. The walls
will be 8 ft. so on the side walls these sheets will cover right to the
roof overhang. The problem is that on the end walls, where there is a
gable, I will have a horizontal joint where the wall sheets meet the
sheets on the gable. I really dont like the idea of just butting the
sheets together, because water will get in, which will not only cause
decay of the plywood ovfer time, but also get inside the walls.

I've considered applying a bead of silicone caulk to the joint before
placing the sheets in place, but there is no guarantee that I'll get
100% of them sealed, not to mention that I intend to apply a paint or
wood stain when the walls are complete, and I know well that paints do
not adhere to silicone caulk.

However, I'm wondering if there is some sort of material made
specifically for this use? I'm aware that when butting together some
pole barn steel, they sell a special metal trim (divider) piece that
sits under the upper sheet and has a lip over the lower sheet. I've
already considered using that same metal piece, and just getting a color
similar to that color I intend to paint the siding. This will at least
keep water out of the walls, but that upper sheet's lower edge will
still get moisture. I suppose I could paint that lower edge before
applying it to seal the wood. I think this is preferred to just using
caulk. However, I'm wondering if there is a specific material made for
this purpose? Anyone know?

Note: I asked the clerk at the "big box" store about this, and the "kid"
had no clue what I was talking about. I figured it was a waste of time
to even ask, but I tried.....

Thanks

The "metal trim" you mentioned is call Z flashing. If you DAGS (images)
you'll see pictures of it being used with T11.

You still want to use caulk between the flashing and the upper sheet. Will
it last forever? I doubt it.

I'm building a cabin and plan to use that T11 siding.
the sheets are 4x8 foot, just like regular plywood.
on the end walls, where there is a gable, I will have a horizontal
joint where the wall sheets meet the sheets on the gable.
I've considered applying a bead of silicone caulk to the joint before
placing the sheets in place

Install metal Z-flashing at the top of the lower sheet before you install
the upper gable sheets. Z-flashing is usually stocked in most home centers.

The Z-flashing ensures that any water that finds it's way into the joint is
directed to the outside of the wall. Do not caulk this joint, you don't
want to trap water in the joint which could wick up into the upper siding.

Ideally, your T1-11 siding should have shiplap edges on the vertical sides.
Basically, each sheet overlaps the previous sheet to keep out water.
Otherwise, you should caulk the vertical joint to keep moisture from
entering the wall at these joints.

Good luck,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com/anthony.htm

On Fri, 19 Jul 2013 13:54:40 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I'm building a cabin and plan to use that T11 siding.
the sheets are 4x8 foot, just like regular plywood.
on the end walls, where there is a gable, I will have a horizontal
joint where the wall sheets meet the sheets on the gable.
I've considered applying a bead of silicone caulk to the joint before
placing the sheets in place

Install metal Z-flashing at the top of the lower sheet before you install
the upper gable sheets. Z-flashing is usually stocked in most home centers.

The Z-flashing ensures that any water that finds it's way into the joint is
directed to the outside of the wall. Do not caulk this joint, you don't
want to trap water in the joint which could wick up into the upper siding.

Ideally, your T1-11 siding should have shiplap edges on the vertical sides.
Basically, each sheet overlaps the previous sheet to keep out water.
Otherwise, you should caulk the vertical joint to keep moisture from
entering the wall at these joints.

Good luck,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com/anthony.htm

Thanks

I visited a "real" lumberyard today, and he showed me the Z flashing.
And yes, the sheets are ship lapped on the vetical sides. I can
understand what you're saying about not caulking that horizontal joint
by the Z flashing. But I think I'll apply some paint to that bottom
edge of the upper sheets (same paint I'll use on the finished walls).
Nothing lasts forever, but simple things like that can extend the life.
For example, I always paint the eaves before installing rain gutters.
Bare wood is just begging to decay, so a little extra paint and time
insures a better protection for the wood.

I visited a "real" lumberyard today, and he showed me the Z flashing.
And yes, the sheets are ship lapped on the vetical sides. I can
understand what you're saying about not caulking that horizontal joint
by the Z flashing. But I think I'll apply some paint to that bottom
edge of the upper sheets (same paint I'll use on the finished walls).

If you have the time to prefinish that lower edge, it would be good
insurance. I left a small gap (1/16") between the Z-flashing and the upper
sheet. Water can drain out easier and I can still get in with a paint brush
to paint that lower edge.

Take care,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com/anthony.htm

wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2013 13:54:40 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I'm building a cabin and plan to use that T11 siding.
the sheets are 4x8 foot, just like regular plywood.
on the end walls, where there is a gable, I will have a
horizontal
joint where the wall sheets meet the sheets on the
gable.
I've considered applying a bead of silicone caulk to the
joint
before placing the sheets in place

Install metal Z-flashing at the top of the lower sheet
before you
install the upper gable sheets. Z-flashing is usually
stocked in
most home centers.

The Z-flashing ensures that any water that finds it's way
into the
joint is directed to the outside of the wall. Do not
caulk this
joint, you don't want to trap water in the joint which
could wick up
into the upper siding.

Ideally, your T1-11 siding should have shiplap edges on
the vertical
sides. Basically, each sheet overlaps the previous sheet
to keep out
water. Otherwise, you should caulk the vertical joint to
keep
moisture from entering the wall at these joints.

Good luck,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com/anthony.htm

Thanks

I visited a "real" lumberyard today, and he showed me the
Z flashing.
And yes, the sheets are ship lapped on the vetical sides.
I can
understand what you're saying about not caulking that
horizontal joint
by the Z flashing. But I think I'll apply some paint to
that bottom
edge of the upper sheets (same paint I'll use on the
finished walls).
Nothing lasts forever, but simple things like that can
extend the
life. For example, I always paint the eaves before
installing rain
gutters. Bare wood is just begging to decay, so a little
extra paint
and time insures a better protection for the wood.

if your really worried about rot, I'd use hardieboard.
they have some that looks just like T1-11 and I'm using it
to replace my T1-11 that is on my shed that has delaminated
and started to rot

On Sat, 20 Jul 2013 15:30:41 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I visited a "real" lumberyard today, and he showed me the Z flashing.
And yes, the sheets are ship lapped on the vetical sides. I can
understand what you're saying about not caulking that horizontal joint
by the Z flashing. But I think I'll apply some paint to that bottom
edge of the upper sheets (same paint I'll use on the finished walls).

If you have the time to prefinish that lower edge, it would be good
insurance. I left a small gap (1/16") between the Z-flashing and the upper
sheet. Water can drain out easier and I can still get in with a paint brush
to paint that lower edge.

Take care,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com/anthony.htm

What did you use to get that 1/16 gap in there? I'm assuming cardboard
or something like that, or else some thin steel or other metal plates.
I know one cant just hold the sheet with a tiny gap like that before
fastening it.

On Sat, 20 Jul 2013 11:20:20 -0500, "ChairMan"
wrote:

installing rain
gutters. Bare wood is just begging to decay, so a little
extra paint
and time insures a better protection for the wood.

if your really worried about rot, I'd use hardieboard.
they have some that looks just like T1-11 and I'm using it
to replace my T1-11 that is on my shed that has delaminated
and started to rot


I tend to put more faith in plywood materials than any of that
compressed sawdust stuff. A building I tore down some years back had a
hardieboard siding and the stuff was all decayed. Just like every
trailer house I've been around, it seems that the flakeboard they use on
the floors just falls apart. A friend of mine is overweight, and lives
in a trailer. He is constantly having to repair the floor because he
will sit on a chair and the leg of the chair will go thru the floor, or
he has just stepped in a spot and his foot went thru. I also see what
happens when a piece of that (raw) stuff is left outdoors, it swells up
from wetness and never goes back to the original thickness. I've
already made a point not to use any compressed flakeboard, or any of
that in my building. Plywood costs a few dollars more, but it far
superior.

If I could afford it, I'd cover the building with aluminum siding, but
that stuff is no longer affordable. The old redwood siding is also way
too costly, although that stuff always seemed to hold up well, but paint
tended to peel off of it. Seems these days that ugly vinyl siding is
used for darn near everything. I absolutely hate the stuff. So that
really only leaves me with the T11. I am looking to see if they make it
with treated plywood. I was told it's available, but have yet to find
it.

By the way, does anyone know why it's called T11 ???

On Sat, 20 Jul 2013 17:21:45 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 20 Jul 2013 15:30:41 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I visited a "real" lumberyard today, and he showed me the Z flashing.
And yes, the sheets are ship lapped on the vetical sides. I can
understand what you're saying about not caulking that horizontal joint
by the Z flashing. But I think I'll apply some paint to that bottom
edge of the upper sheets (same paint I'll use on the finished walls).

If you have the time to prefinish that lower edge, it would be good
insurance. I left a small gap (1/16") between the Z-flashing and the upper
sheet. Water can drain out easier and I can still get in with a paint brush
to paint that lower edge.

Take care,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com/anthony.htm

What did you use to get that 1/16 gap in there? I'm assuming cardboard
or something like that, or else some thin steel or other metal plates.
I know one cant just hold the sheet with a tiny gap like that before
fastening it.

Holding the sheet with a gap and then fastening it is precisely the
way to do it if the wall has been erected first.

The only alternative would be to sheet the wall prior to erecting it.
Even then you still have to put the sheet in place with the proper gap
before fastening it. Sheeting first would also allow you to ensure
the wall is perfectly square.

Either way, easy peasy.

Start with Tyvek First

http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weather...rcialwrap.html

In ,
belched:
On Sat, 20 Jul 2013 11:20:20 -0500, "ChairMan"
wrote:

installing rain
gutters. Bare wood is just begging to decay, so a little
extra paint
and time insures a better protection for the wood.

if your really worried about rot, I'd use hardieboard.
they have some that looks just like T1-11 and I'm using it
to replace my T1-11 that is on my shed that has delaminated
and started to rot


I tend to put more faith in plywood materials than any of that
compressed sawdust stuff. A building I tore down some years back had
a hardieboard siding and the stuff was all decayed. Just like every
trailer house I've been around, it seems that the flakeboard they use
on the floors just falls apart. A friend of mine is overweight, and
lives in a trailer. He is constantly having to repair the floor
because he will sit on a chair and the leg of the chair will go thru
the floor, or he has just stepped in a spot and his foot went thru.
I also see what happens when a piece of that (raw) stuff is left
outdoors, it swells up from wetness and never goes back to the
original thickness. I've already made a point not to use any
compressed flakeboard, or any of that in my building. Plywood costs
a few dollars more, but it far superior.

If I could afford it, I'd cover the building with aluminum siding, but
that stuff is no longer affordable. The old redwood siding is also
way too costly, although that stuff always seemed to hold up well,
but paint tended to peel off of it. Seems these days that ugly vinyl
siding is used for darn near everything. I absolutely hate the
stuff. So that really only leaves me with the T11. I am looking to
see if they make it with treated plywood. I was told it's available,
but have yet to find it.

By the way, does anyone know why it's called T11 ???

you're confusing particle board/waferboard with hardie board.
Hardie board is a concrete fiber material with a 30 yr warranty
http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...pcod e=retail
I've replaced the T1-11 twice on 2 sides of my shed 16 x 20, west and south
sides and each time it's delaminated/rotted in the last 15-20 yrs.
YMMV

On Sat, 20 Jul 2013 20:14:52 -0500, "ChairMan"
wrote:

In ,
belched:
On Sat, 20 Jul 2013 11:20:20 -0500, "ChairMan"
wrote:

installing rain
gutters. Bare wood is just begging to decay, so a little
extra paint
and time insures a better protection for the wood.

if your really worried about rot, I'd use hardieboard.
they have some that looks just like T1-11 and I'm using it
to replace my T1-11 that is on my shed that has delaminated
and started to rot


I tend to put more faith in plywood materials than any of that
compressed sawdust stuff. A building I tore down some years back had
a hardieboard siding and the stuff was all decayed. Just like every
trailer house I've been around, it seems that the flakeboard they use
on the floors just falls apart. A friend of mine is overweight, and
lives in a trailer. He is constantly having to repair the floor
because he will sit on a chair and the leg of the chair will go thru
the floor, or he has just stepped in a spot and his foot went thru.
I also see what happens when a piece of that (raw) stuff is left
outdoors, it swells up from wetness and never goes back to the
original thickness. I've already made a point not to use any
compressed flakeboard, or any of that in my building. Plywood costs
a few dollars more, but it far superior.

If I could afford it, I'd cover the building with aluminum siding, but
that stuff is no longer affordable. The old redwood siding is also
way too costly, although that stuff always seemed to hold up well,
but paint tended to peel off of it. Seems these days that ugly vinyl
siding is used for darn near everything. I absolutely hate the
stuff. So that really only leaves me with the T11. I am looking to
see if they make it with treated plywood. I was told it's available,
but have yet to find it.

By the way, does anyone know why it's called T11 ???

you're confusing particle board/waferboard with hardie board.
Hardie board is a concrete fiber material with a 30 yr warranty
http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...pcod e=retail
I've replaced the T1-11 twice on 2 sides of my shed 16 x 20, west and south
sides and each time it's delaminated/rotted in the last 15-20 yrs.
YMMV


Not all T11 is created equal. Some of it is made from 5/8" thick
plywood. That's the good stuff. Other T11 is OSB. Some of that may
only be 1/2" or maybe less. That's the not good stuff.

I would not only paint the bottom of the sheets in the gable end top, I would also paint the bottom 3 or 4 inches on the inside in case water gets into the groove when wind-blown and creeps up the backside.

Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Sat, 20 Jul 2013 20:14:52 -0500, "ChairMan"

wrote:

In ,
belched:
On Sat, 20 Jul 2013 11:20:20 -0500, "ChairMan"

wrote:

installing rain
gutters. Bare wood is just begging to decay, so a
little
extra paint
and time insures a better protection for the wood.

if your really worried about rot, I'd use hardieboard.
they have some that looks just like T1-11 and I'm using
it
to replace my T1-11 that is on my shed that has
delaminated
and started to rot


I tend to put more faith in plywood materials than any
of that
compressed sawdust stuff. A building I tore down some
years back
had a hardieboard siding and the stuff was all decayed.
Just like
every trailer house I've been around, it seems that the
flakeboard
they use on the floors just falls apart. A friend of
mine is
overweight, and lives in a trailer. He is constantly
having to
repair the floor because he will sit on a chair and the
leg of the
chair will go thru the floor, or he has just stepped in
a spot and
his foot went thru.
I also see what happens when a piece of that (raw) stuff
is left
outdoors, it swells up from wetness and never goes back
to the
original thickness. I've already made a point not to
use any
compressed flakeboard, or any of that in my building.
Plywood costs
a few dollars more, but it far superior.

If I could afford it, I'd cover the building with
aluminum siding,
but that stuff is no longer affordable. The old redwood
siding is
also way too costly, although that stuff always seemed
to hold up
well, but paint tended to peel off of it. Seems these
days that
ugly vinyl siding is used for darn near everything. I
absolutely
hate the stuff. So that really only leaves me with the
T11. I am
looking to see if they make it with treated plywood. I
was told
it's available, but have yet to find it.

By the way, does anyone know why it's called T11 ???

you're confusing particle board/waferboard with hardie
board.
Hardie board is a concrete fiber material with a 30 yr
warranty
http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...pcod e=retail
I've replaced the T1-11 twice on 2 sides of my shed 16 x
20, west
and south sides and each time it's delaminated/rotted in
the last
15-20 yrs.
YMMV


Not all T11 is created equal. Some of it is made from
5/8" thick
plywood. That's the good stuff. Other T11 is OSB. Some
of that may
only be 1/2" or maybe less. That's the not good stuff.

mine is the plwood type and it still sucks.
It was primed and painted with quality paint the same paint
that was used on my home. Home is fine, shed is rotting and
delaminating
I wouldn't buy ply T1-11 again if you paid me

" wrote:
I would not only paint the bottom of the sheets in the gable end top, I
would also paint the bottom 3 or 4 inches on the inside in case water
gets into the groove when wind-blown and creeps up the backside.

I hate it when things creep up the backside.

What did you use to get that 1/16 gap in there? I'm assuming
cardboard or something like that, or else some thin steel or other
metal plates. I know one cant just hold the sheet with a tiny gap like
that before fastening it.

To be honest, I didn't really plan it at the time. It just worked out that
way as I was positioning the sheets. But any kind of thin spacer would work
OK too.

Gable ends are usually just partial sheets anyway, so they don't weigh as
much as you would expect. If you're using an air nailer, it's easy to hold
the sheet with one hand and nail with the other (it's nicer if you can get
someone to help hold the sheet). Otherwise, temporary spacers would work
fine.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com/anthony.htm

I tend to put more faith in plywood materials than any of that
compressed sawdust stuff. A building I tore down some years back
had a hardieboard siding and the stuff was all decayed.

I don't remember what it was called, but I think you're thinking of that
compressed fiberboard stuff. We had that on our old mobile home. It
doesn't hold up well to moisture.

Hardiboard is different material. It's basically made of cement and wood
fibers. It's extremely durable. I avoid it because it's heavy and hard on
the cutting blades (makes a dusty mess when cutting). But I've used some
of the hardi siding materials and they hold up well.

it seems that the flakeboard they use on the floors just falls apart.
A friend of mine is overweight, and lives in a trailer. He is
constantly having to repair the floor because he will sit on a chair
and the leg of the chair will go thru the floor, or he has just stepped
in a spot and his foot went thru.

Old mobile homes used to use a particle board underlayment. We had that
and it was terrible. It fell apart if it got the least bit wet.

Modern OSB is a completely different product. It's strong, and holds up
to moisture at least as good as standard ply. The T&G OSB sheets made
for floors have additional coatings to protect the sheets while exposed
to weather during construction. Ours got soaked in rain numerous times
over several months while we were building. No swelling or other damage
at all.

OSB is actually better than standard ply for floors because it doesn't
have any voids for a chair leg to poke through.

Seems these days that ugly vinyl siding is used for darn near
everything. I absolutely hate the stuff. So that really only
leaves me with the T11.

Hardi lap siding seems to be popular here in the Pacific Northwest, but
vinyl is used a lot too.

You could always go with traditional cedar siding.

We used 5/8" rough sawn plywood (kind of like T1-11 without the grooves).
Our plan was to install battens for the look of traditional board and
batten siding. But, we were happy with the rough sawn siding by itself.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com/anthony.htm