Robert Macy wrote:
snip

Thank you, excellent suggestion to throw away that sandpaper.

Luckily no rusting, since chip(s) is on the front lip of the tub.
About 1 inch by 3/4 inch like someone dropped their pipe wrench, or
a heavy 4 ft metal pipe had been standing outside the tub and was
allowed to fall onto the edge. Thus, front lip and about the right
angle of hit.

There are two chips, but the other one is smaller, 1/4 inch by 1/4
inch or so. Like who ever dented did it twice.

This tub is white so should be easy to match. With that size and
ease of color match [white, but please no yellowing with time] is
that paint kit still the best?

If you're suggesting patience to fill and shave, fill and shave, etc
No problem. You're talking to a guy that took 3 hours to fix an $8
hair dryer! And, and to rework a badly weathered 9 ft by 18 ft
tongue and groove porch floor, manually sanded [we're talking about
a floor painted with some kind of antique-like armour! I don't know
what they used years ago, but that old gray porch paint is either
rubbery or harder than sandpaper] to refinish and paint to match
exterior color then seal with multiple clear floor 'paint', [didn't
like the paint effect] manually sanded again to strip my own paint,
then used a hand grout saw [wore out three of them] to get all the
weathered wood and dirt out of the cracks [with dry rot, some
cracks opened to over 1/4 inch. these were narrow floor boards too
I calculated two city blocks of linear length] then filled the
cracks with Minwax two part wood epoxy fill and oil finished the
floor for a beautiful natural wood look. Only to find that the
MinWax epoxy product was doing physically what I wanted - perfectly
adhering the flooring into a solid slab BUT had a noticeable green
tinge making the floor look obnoxiously striped. So,...manually
sanded all off again, and PAINTED the epoxy in the cracks with my
wife's tiny artist brushes to match each adjacent wood grain,
blending in the range of colors and the grain for each board beside
each crack. Then put on three coats of heavy oil base, again hand
sanding to flatten between each coat. Result after about 3 months?
A beautiful, natural looking redwood porch floor and preserved the
100 year old flooring to meet my goal of keeping the home as close
to the original as possible.

Regarding "This tub is white so should be easy to match" I'm not trying to
dash your hopes but "white" is probably the most difficult color to match
that there is because there are so *many* variations of it.

If the kit that you buy is for a color of a specific manufacturer, you
should have no/few problems. If it is not - judging by what you detailed in
your last paragraph - you should also meet success by proceeding in a
similar manner with the tub. One hint: it is often easier to get a good
color match by stippling various colors with a tiny brush than by painting
the entire surface.

--

dadiOH
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On Jun 14, 7:40*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
...snip...
Regarding "This tub is white so should be easy to match" I'm not trying to
dash your hopes but "white" is probably the most difficult color to match
that there is because there are so *many* variations of it.

If the kit that you buy is for a color of a specific manufacturer, you
should have no/few problems. *If it is not - judging by what you detailed in
your last paragraph - you should also meet success by proceeding in a
similar manner with the tub. *One hint: it is often easier to get a good
color match by stippling various colors with a tiny brush than by painting
the entire surface.

--

dadiOH

True, the spectrum involved makes for interesting matches. My main
concern is that the patch will yellow with time. That will show.
Anything is better than that black showing through. Amazingly, when we
asked our realtor for details photos of the chipped damage, she was
surprised since she hadn't noticed the chips until we mentioned, and
she had been showing the home for over 18 months!