On Jun 13, 7:58*am, nestork wrote:
'Robert Macy[_2_ Wrote:





;3077834']Two chips out of tub. Looks like ?? disgruntled home owner?
Or, maybe
a workman dropped a tool.

Anyway need to find out the easieist, best porcelain repair kit to use
on this white tub.

I would like to post pictures, before and after, but haven't been able
to park the pictures in a public spot. Can I send a couple of pictures
to someone to post? *I tried to gain access to public pic posting when
I posted a question about an exterior painting problem, but at every
public website tried, can't even pick up a picture! let alone try to
register there.

Or, is there some photo parking spot that might work? Will this gmail
account let me park them for public access?

Google Porc-a-fix Paint.

If you don't get any hits, post again and I'll look up the info for the
Canadian Distributor, and they would know the contact information for
the factory, who in turn would know who their US distributor is.

Porc-a-fix Paint is a hard drying oil based paint that comes pretinted
to match all the colours that both Crane and American Standard used in
all of their bath tubs since the 1950's when coloured bathroom fixtures
became popular.

The tiny bottle of Porc-a-fix you buy comes with a small sheet of
instructions and two small pieces of sandpaper. *Both should be thrown
in the garbage where they belong.

Mix up the Porc-a-fix to a uniform colour by stirring it. *Dip a
toothpick into the Porc-a-fix and then touch the end of the toothpick to
the chip and move the toothpick around so that the paint drains off the
toothpick onto the chip.

Cover the whole chip that way.

Once the paint is dry to the touch (within a few hours) use a single
edge razor blade to shave the excess paint off the chip. *Be careful to
hold the razor so that if follows the contour of the tub. *If your chip
is on a corner where you can't do that, then just leave the excess paint
on to dry.

Porc-a-fix used to be made by KIT Industries, but they've since been
sold to a different US company that is continuing production of these
paints. *Porc-a-fix also comes in a number of colours that major
appliance manufacturers like GE and Frigidaire used for their stove cook
tops.

I own a small apartment block, and I've been using Porc-a-fix to repair
chips in bathtubs for over 25 years now. *I don't know if it's the best
porcelain chip repair available. *So far as I know, it's the ONLY
porcelain chip repair system available for coloured tubs. *If your tub
is white, you could probably use any white Testor's plastic model paint
to do the repair providing you get a reasonable colour match on the
white.

If the chip is on the bottom of the tub, and deep enough so that the
steel is exposed and rusting, it's best to coat the chip with epoxy
before painting it to match the surrounding colour. *If that's the case,
post again and I'll explain a good way to apply epoxy to the chip.

--
nestork

Thank you, excellent suggestion to throw away that sandpaper.

Luckily no rusting, since chip(s) is on the front lip of the tub.
About 1 inch by 3/4 inch like someone dropped their pipe wrench, or a
heavy 4 ft metal pipe had been standing outside the tub and was
allowed to fall onto the edge. Thus, front lip and about the right
angle of hit.

There are two chips, but the other one is smaller, 1/4 inch by 1/4
inch or so. Like who ever dented did it twice.

This tub is white so should be easy to match. With that size and ease
of color match [white, but please no yellowing with time] is that
paint kit still the best?

If you're suggesting patience to fill and shave, fill and shave, etc
No problem. You're talking to a guy that took 3 hours to fix an $8
hair dryer! And, and to rework a badly weathered 9 ft by 18 ft tongue
and groove porch floor, manually sanded [we're talking about a floor
painted with some kind of antique-like armour! I don't know what they
used years ago, but that old gray porch paint is either rubbery or
harder than sandpaper] to refinish and paint to match exterior color
then seal with multiple clear floor 'paint', [didn't like the paint
effect] manually sanded again to strip my own paint, then used a hand
grout saw [wore out three of them] to get all the weathered wood and
dirt out of the cracks [with dry rot, some cracks opened to over 1/4
inch. these were narrow floor boards too I calculated two city blocks
of linear length] then filled the cracks with Minwax two part wood
epoxy fill and oil finished the floor for a beautiful natural wood
look. Only to find that the MinWax epoxy product was doing physically
what I wanted - perfectly adhering the flooring into a solid slab BUT
had a noticeable green tinge making the floor look obnoxiously
striped. So,...manually sanded all off again, and PAINTED the epoxy in
the cracks with my wife's tiny artist brushes to match each adjacent
wood grain, blending in the range of colors and the grain for each
board beside each crack. Then put on three coats of heavy oil base,
again hand sanding to flatten between each coat. Result after about 3
months? A beautiful, natural looking redwood porch floor and preserved
the 100 year old flooring to meet my goal of keeping the home as close
to the original as possible.