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Default furnace pilot light keeps going out



wrote:
On Sat, 09 Feb 2013 16:50:09 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:



Tony Hwang wrote:


Okay, I looked closer at the valve, and the open-ended copper tube is
attached to a port on the valve marked "VENT".

What is the purpose of that vent?

The valve bears the number B57RB67. It seems that perhaps it can be
replaced by Robertshaw 720-402.
http://www.pexsupply.com/Robertshaw-...-Valve-150-000


Hi,
First of all, your furnace sounds very old having a pilot with low
efficiency. And pardon me, looks like you haven't got a clue what you
are upto. Often there is a adj. screw under a plug on the valve body for
pilot flame size and if the thermocouple connection is tight, just re-
place it. And adj. pilot flame size proper - Done.

Or your line feeding the gas to the pilot is plugged up piano wire is
good for unclogging.

Unlikely if he has a good blue pilot flame as reported.

Hi,
OP said click and pilot goes out after couple mins. TC output drops and
gas supply to pilot quits. Replace the damn TC which is
not really expensive. Some more thought? Pilot flame positioned wrong,
chimney draft? What else is left?
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Default furnace pilot light keeps going out

On 02/09/2013 10:33 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:


wrote:
On Sat, 09 Feb 2013 16:50:09 -0700, Tony Hwang
wrote:



Tony Hwang wrote:


Okay, I looked closer at the valve, and the open-ended copper tube is
attached to a port on the valve marked "VENT".

What is the purpose of that vent?

The valve bears the number B57RB67. It seems that perhaps it can be
replaced by Robertshaw 720-402.
http://www.pexsupply.com/Robertshaw-...-Valve-150-000



Hi,
First of all, your furnace sounds very old having a pilot with low
efficiency. And pardon me, looks like you haven't got a clue what you
are upto. Often there is a adj. screw under a plug on the valve body
for
pilot flame size and if the thermocouple connection is tight, just re-
place it. And adj. pilot flame size proper - Done.
Or your line feeding the gas to the pilot is plugged up piano wire is
good for unclogging.

Unlikely if he has a good blue pilot flame as reported.

Hi,
OP said click and pilot goes out after couple mins. TC output drops and
gas supply to pilot quits. Replace the damn TC which is
not really expensive. Some more thought? Pilot flame positioned wrong,
chimney draft? What else is left?


pardon me, looks like you haven't got a clue what you
are upto.
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Default furnace pilot light keeps going out

On Saturday, February 9, 2013 4:52:45 PM UTC-6, Stormin Mormon wrote:
What if two thermocouples want to live together, but not be married.



2 couples would be 4 people...that would just be wrong! Start thinking outside-the-box and not with you head in it.
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Default furnace pilot light keeps going out

On 2/10/2013 11:34 AM, Bob_Villa wrote:
On Saturday, February 9, 2013 4:52:45 PM UTC-6, Stormin Mormon wrote:
What if two thermocouples want to live together, but not be married.



2 couples would be 4 people...that would just be wrong! Start thinking outside-the-box and not with you head in it.


Would they be "hot" couples? ^_^

TDD
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Default furnace pilot light keeps going out

That could make for a good TV show. The two thermoucopules of Detroit,
maybe?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Bob_Villa" wrote in message
...
On Saturday, February 9, 2013 4:52:45 PM UTC-6, Stormin Mormon wrote:
What if two thermocouples want to live together, but not be married.



2 couples would be 4 people...that would just be wrong! Start thinking
outside-the-box and not with you head in it.




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Default furnace pilot light keeps going out

On 02/09/2013 08:49 PM, nestork wrote:
themattfella;3011297 Wrote:
On 02/08/2013 09:26 PM, themattfella wrote:-

I think I just have one more question. There are two 1/8" copper
lines
coming out of the valve body and going to the little pilot box along
with the 1/4" aluminum pilot-supply gas line. Both copper lines are
connected to the valve body by what look like (but apparently are not)
compression fittings. Does that mean that there are two
thermocouples?
One fitting has a 5/16" nut, and the other nut is 3/8".
-

Now I see that the 1/8" copper line that has a 3/8" nut is the
thermocouple.

The other 1/8" copper line has a 5/16" nut holding it to the valve body.

Upon closer inspection, I find that it is a copper tube that is open
on the end. About 2 1/4" from the open end, there is a 3/16" OD brass
ferrule.

The ferrule can't be slid on the tubing easily. There is a clamp on the

outside of the metal pilot box that looks like it could hold the tube in

place, but the clamp is loose, and it was not holding the tube, not
securely anyway.

What is the function of this open-end tube, and how should the end be
situated when I reassemble it?

BTW I am in the Midwest, and the input rating is 110,000 Btu/hr. The
aluminum pilot tube was replaced a couple years ago at a cost of about
$100 when it did not need it. I am assuming that the reassembly was
incorrect.


Themattfella:

My understanding is that old gas valves had "vents" which vented small
quantities of gas into the pilot light. However, if your pilot light
assembly has been replaced in the past 20 years, you probably won't have
anywhere to connect that vent line to.

I can't see what you have there, or how it's all supposed to fit
together, but you need to put things back together so that the end
result is that anything coming out the end of that vent tube gets burned
in the pilot light. You might even have to hold things together with
some bare copper electrical wire or the steel wire in twist ties to
accomplish that, but looks don't matter. As long as you burn any gas
that comes out of that vent tube, that's all that matters.


Okay, yes, thanks, I understand that.

Now I do have one practical question remaining.

If I situate the open end of the vent tube in the flame of the pilot,
will the tube suffer oxidation that would eventually cause a problem?

I imagine: 1) a crusty green growth blocking the opening, or 2) the end
of the tube being eaten away by the flame.

Again, the vent tube is 1/8" OD copper tubing.

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Default furnace pilot light keeps going out

On Sun, 10 Feb 2013 14:51:00 -0600, themattfella
wrote:

On 02/09/2013 08:49 PM, nestork wrote:
themattfella;3011297 Wrote:
On 02/08/2013 09:26 PM, themattfella wrote:-

I think I just have one more question. There are two 1/8" copper
lines
coming out of the valve body and going to the little pilot box along
with the 1/4" aluminum pilot-supply gas line. Both copper lines are
connected to the valve body by what look like (but apparently are not)
compression fittings. Does that mean that there are two
thermocouples?
One fitting has a 5/16" nut, and the other nut is 3/8".
-

Now I see that the 1/8" copper line that has a 3/8" nut is the
thermocouple.

The other 1/8" copper line has a 5/16" nut holding it to the valve body.

Upon closer inspection, I find that it is a copper tube that is open
on the end. About 2 1/4" from the open end, there is a 3/16" OD brass
ferrule.

The ferrule can't be slid on the tubing easily. There is a clamp on the

outside of the metal pilot box that looks like it could hold the tube in

place, but the clamp is loose, and it was not holding the tube, not
securely anyway.

What is the function of this open-end tube, and how should the end be
situated when I reassemble it?

BTW I am in the Midwest, and the input rating is 110,000 Btu/hr. The
aluminum pilot tube was replaced a couple years ago at a cost of about
$100 when it did not need it. I am assuming that the reassembly was
incorrect.


Themattfella:

My understanding is that old gas valves had "vents" which vented small
quantities of gas into the pilot light. However, if your pilot light
assembly has been replaced in the past 20 years, you probably won't have
anywhere to connect that vent line to.

I can't see what you have there, or how it's all supposed to fit
together, but you need to put things back together so that the end
result is that anything coming out the end of that vent tube gets burned
in the pilot light. You might even have to hold things together with
some bare copper electrical wire or the steel wire in twist ties to
accomplish that, but looks don't matter. As long as you burn any gas
that comes out of that vent tube, that's all that matters.


Okay, yes, thanks, I understand that.

Now I do have one practical question remaining.

If I situate the open end of the vent tube in the flame of the pilot,
will the tube suffer oxidation that would eventually cause a problem?

I imagine: 1) a crusty green growth blocking the opening, or 2) the end
of the tube being eaten away by the flame.

Again, the vent tube is 1/8" OD copper tubing.

Natural gas is lighter than air. Put the vent BELOW the flame. You do
not want it IN the flame.
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Default furnace pilot light keeps going out

On 02/10/2013 04:08 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 10 Feb 2013 14:51:00 -0600, themattfella
wrote:

On 02/09/2013 08:49 PM, nestork wrote:
themattfella;3011297 Wrote:
On 02/08/2013 09:26 PM, themattfella wrote:-

I think I just have one more question. There are two 1/8" copper
lines
coming out of the valve body and going to the little pilot box along
with the 1/4" aluminum pilot-supply gas line. Both copper lines are
connected to the valve body by what look like (but apparently are not)
compression fittings. Does that mean that there are two
thermocouples?
One fitting has a 5/16" nut, and the other nut is 3/8".
-

Now I see that the 1/8" copper line that has a 3/8" nut is the
thermocouple.

The other 1/8" copper line has a 5/16" nut holding it to the valve body.

Upon closer inspection, I find that it is a copper tube that is open
on the end. About 2 1/4" from the open end, there is a 3/16" OD brass
ferrule.

The ferrule can't be slid on the tubing easily. There is a clamp on the

outside of the metal pilot box that looks like it could hold the tube in

place, but the clamp is loose, and it was not holding the tube, not
securely anyway.

What is the function of this open-end tube, and how should the end be
situated when I reassemble it?

BTW I am in the Midwest, and the input rating is 110,000 Btu/hr. The
aluminum pilot tube was replaced a couple years ago at a cost of about
$100 when it did not need it. I am assuming that the reassembly was
incorrect.

Themattfella:

My understanding is that old gas valves had "vents" which vented small
quantities of gas into the pilot light. However, if your pilot light
assembly has been replaced in the past 20 years, you probably won't have
anywhere to connect that vent line to.

I can't see what you have there, or how it's all supposed to fit
together, but you need to put things back together so that the end
result is that anything coming out the end of that vent tube gets burned
in the pilot light. You might even have to hold things together with
some bare copper electrical wire or the steel wire in twist ties to
accomplish that, but looks don't matter. As long as you burn any gas
that comes out of that vent tube, that's all that matters.


Okay, yes, thanks, I understand that.

Now I do have one practical question remaining.

If I situate the open end of the vent tube in the flame of the pilot,
will the tube suffer oxidation that would eventually cause a problem?

I imagine: 1) a crusty green growth blocking the opening, or 2) the end
of the tube being eaten away by the flame.

Again, the vent tube is 1/8" OD copper tubing.

Natural gas is lighter than air. Put the vent BELOW the flame. You do
not want it IN the flame.


I completed the repair some hours ago. Thanks to all who contributed to
the thread.

I was wrong about the vent tube being copper. It is steel. I
positioned its end about 1/8" below the flame of the pilot. I hope that
that is far enough away. If not, please explain, and I can move it.

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Posts: 18,538
Default furnace pilot light keeps going out

On Mon, 11 Feb 2013 02:42:38 -0600, themattfella
wrote:

On 02/10/2013 04:08 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 10 Feb 2013 14:51:00 -0600, themattfella
wrote:

On 02/09/2013 08:49 PM, nestork wrote:
themattfella;3011297 Wrote:
On 02/08/2013 09:26 PM, themattfella wrote:-

I think I just have one more question. There are two 1/8" copper
lines
coming out of the valve body and going to the little pilot box along
with the 1/4" aluminum pilot-supply gas line. Both copper lines are
connected to the valve body by what look like (but apparently are not)
compression fittings. Does that mean that there are two
thermocouples?
One fitting has a 5/16" nut, and the other nut is 3/8".
-

Now I see that the 1/8" copper line that has a 3/8" nut is the
thermocouple.

The other 1/8" copper line has a 5/16" nut holding it to the valve body.

Upon closer inspection, I find that it is a copper tube that is open
on the end. About 2 1/4" from the open end, there is a 3/16" OD brass
ferrule.

The ferrule can't be slid on the tubing easily. There is a clamp on the

outside of the metal pilot box that looks like it could hold the tube in

place, but the clamp is loose, and it was not holding the tube, not
securely anyway.

What is the function of this open-end tube, and how should the end be
situated when I reassemble it?

BTW I am in the Midwest, and the input rating is 110,000 Btu/hr. The
aluminum pilot tube was replaced a couple years ago at a cost of about
$100 when it did not need it. I am assuming that the reassembly was
incorrect.

Themattfella:

My understanding is that old gas valves had "vents" which vented small
quantities of gas into the pilot light. However, if your pilot light
assembly has been replaced in the past 20 years, you probably won't have
anywhere to connect that vent line to.

I can't see what you have there, or how it's all supposed to fit
together, but you need to put things back together so that the end
result is that anything coming out the end of that vent tube gets burned
in the pilot light. You might even have to hold things together with
some bare copper electrical wire or the steel wire in twist ties to
accomplish that, but looks don't matter. As long as you burn any gas
that comes out of that vent tube, that's all that matters.

Okay, yes, thanks, I understand that.

Now I do have one practical question remaining.

If I situate the open end of the vent tube in the flame of the pilot,
will the tube suffer oxidation that would eventually cause a problem?

I imagine: 1) a crusty green growth blocking the opening, or 2) the end
of the tube being eaten away by the flame.

Again, the vent tube is 1/8" OD copper tubing.

Natural gas is lighter than air. Put the vent BELOW the flame. You do
not want it IN the flame.


I completed the repair some hours ago. Thanks to all who contributed to
the thread.

I was wrong about the vent tube being copper. It is steel. I
positioned its end about 1/8" below the flame of the pilot. I hope that
that is far enough away. If not, please explain, and I can move it.

Should be just fine
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