I'm trying to take off my old faucet and replace it with a new one in
my bathroom's vanity. I had no problem shutting off the cold water
valve, but the hot one is giving me a hard time. I have about 98-99%
turned off and water still comes out of the faucet..albeit..its small
steady and solid..its not dripping. I applied W40 a couple of times,
waited and still can't shut it off completely. I am trying to avoid
using my main shutoff just for this and was wondering if there
anything else i can do. Would just taking off the handle help? Hate to
call a plumber for a small yet nagging situation. Thanks

On 1/10/2013 1:19 PM, Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to take off my old faucet and replace it with a new one in
my bathroom's vanity. I had no problem shutting off the cold water
valve, but the hot one is giving me a hard time. I have about 98-99%
turned off and water still comes out of the faucet..albeit..its small
steady and solid..its not dripping. I applied W40 a couple of times,
waited and still can't shut it off completely. I am trying to avoid
using my main shutoff just for this and was wondering if there
anything else i can do. Would just taking off the handle help? Hate to
call a plumber for a small yet nagging situation. Thanks
Had that problem. The rubber gasket has broken up because of age and
heat. You will have to shut the water supply off and then remove the
shutoff and replace the washer. Be sure to turn off power/gas to the
water heater.

Paul

On Jan 10, 4:38*pm, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 1/10/2013 1:19 PM, Anthony wrote: I'm trying to take off my old faucet and replace it with a new one in
my bathroom's vanity. I had no problem shutting off the cold water
valve, but the hot one is giving me *a hard time. I have about 98-99%
turned off and water still comes out of the faucet..albeit..its small
steady and solid..its not dripping. I applied W40 a couple of times,
waited and still can't shut it off completely. I am trying to avoid
using my main shutoff just for this and was wondering if there
anything else i can do. Would just taking off the handle help? Hate to
call a plumber for a small yet nagging situation. Thanks

Had that problem. The rubber gasket has broken up because of age and
heat. You will have to shut the water supply off and then remove the
shutoff and replace the washer. Be sure to turn off power/gas to the
water heater.

Paul

What's going to happen to the water heater if he
doesn't shut it off? As long as he has something open
slightly somewhere for any possible expansion, nothing
is going to happen. And it sounds like he has that at
the moment, whether he wants it or not,
without doing anything else.

I've had similar problem. Water shut off, in a
bathroom sink vanity. The answer turned out
to be buying a new shutoff valve at the store, and
replace the shutoff. Older house, galvanized pipe.
I used a smaller pipe wrench on the pipe, and larger
on the valve, thread it off. Don't let the force turn the
galv pipe, just the valve.

Teflon tape, and then Recorseal #5 on the exposed
threads, reassemble, hope for the best.

It may be possible to shut off the water, take the valve
apart, replace the faucet washer, and put it back
together. I've done that, also.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Anthony" wrote in message
...
I'm trying to take off my old faucet and replace it with a new one in
my bathroom's vanity. I had no problem shutting off the cold water
valve, but the hot one is giving me a hard time. I have about 98-99%
turned off and water still comes out of the faucet..albeit..its small
steady and solid..its not dripping. I applied W40 a couple of times,
waited and still can't shut it off completely. I am trying to avoid
using my main shutoff just for this and was wondering if there
anything else i can do. Would just taking off the handle help? Hate to
call a plumber for a small yet nagging situation. Thanks

On Jan 10, 6:44*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I've had similar problem. Water shut off, in a
bathroom sink vanity. The answer turned out
to be buying a new shutoff valve at the store, and
replace the shutoff. Older house, galvanized pipe.
I used a smaller pipe wrench on the pipe, and larger
on the valve, thread it off. Don't let the force turn the
galv pipe, just the valve.

Teflon tape, and then Recorseal #5 on the exposed
threads, reassemble, hope for the best.

It may be possible to shut off the water, take the valve
apart, replace the faucet washer, and put it back
together. I've done that, also.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Anthony" wrote in message

...
I'm trying to take off my old faucet and replace it with a new one in
my bathroom's vanity. I had no problem shutting off the cold water
valve, but the hot one is giving me *a hard time. I have about 98-99%
turned off and water still comes out of the faucet..albeit..its small
steady and solid..its not dripping. I applied W40 a couple of times,
waited and still can't shut it off completely. I am trying to avoid
using my main shutoff just for this and was wondering if there
anything else i can do. Would just taking off the handle help? Hate to
call a plumber for a small yet nagging situation. Thanks

Replacing the valve comes after I try to install my new faucet...for
now, I want to be sure that the water is off so I can do so.

Here's a chance to replace both, while the house
water main is off. Of course, you can put a bucket
under the leaky shutoff, and work fast.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Anthony" wrote in message
...

Replacing the valve comes after I try to install my
new faucet...for now, I want to be sure that the
water is off so I can do so.

I've gotten lucky in the past where I would just replace the stem if
the manufacturer is the same. I bought a new valve to replace a leaky
one, but instead of replacing the entire valve, I just replaced the
stem. Saves the trouble of removing the entire valve, (if the valve
seat is still good).

On Jan 10, 3:19*pm, Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to take off my old faucet and replace it with a new one in
my bathroom's vanity. I had no problem shutting off the cold water
valve, but the hot one is giving me *a hard time. I have about 98-99%
turned off and water still comes out of the faucet..albeit..its small
steady and solid..its not dripping. I applied W40 a couple of times,
waited and still can't shut it off completely. I am trying to avoid
using my main shutoff just for this and was wondering if there
anything else i can do. Would just taking off the handle help? Hate to
call a plumber for a small yet nagging situation. Thanks

Wd 40 is not a penetrant, it is a water displacement product.
Shut off your main water supply. Turn down the water heater
thermostat. Disconnect supply lines to old faucet set. Disconnect
lavatory drain. Remove entire basin assembly. Replace faucet set. Buy
and install new quarter turn hot and cold shutoff valves. Reinstall
basin and hook up supply and drain lines with any necessary new or
better parts.
Anything less that this will only cause more aggravation and
frustration and rework . Do it right, do it once, and enjoy the
results. Otherwise you will probably miss most of the Super Bowl.

Joe

On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 13:19:08 -0800 (PST), Anthony
wrote:

I'm trying to take off my old faucet and replace it with a new one in
my bathroom's vanity. I had no problem shutting off the cold water
valve, but the hot one is giving me a hard time. I have about 98-99%
turned off and water still comes out of the faucet..albeit..its small
steady and solid..its not dripping. I applied W40 a couple of times,
waited and still can't shut it off completely. I am trying to avoid
using my main shutoff just for this and was wondering if there
anything else i can do. Would just taking off the handle help? Hate to
call a plumber for a small yet nagging situation. Thanks

If you're doing the faucet yourself, why would you need a plumber?
To close the main shut off?
The only chance to close the valve is to work it open and shut until
it works, or you figure it won't work. Sometimes it works.
If it doesn't close you're going to have to shut the main valve.
Or but a pail down and try to catch the water while you replace the
faucet.
There's always a chance the main shutoff won't fully close too.
But if you have a lower faucet to open - basement or bath tub - that
should take care of the leakthrough while you work on replacing the
wash basin stop and faucet. Or just replace the faucet and kick the
stop down the road. Your call on that. Depends on what plumbing work
you plan to do down the road.

Anthony:
Save your money until you have enough to replace the main water shut off valve to your house with a ball valve. These are very reliable and allow you to shut off the water to your whole house so that you can confidently replace the water shut off valves in your house. If you're alreadying starting to do plumbing repairs in your house, then having a reliable valve that you can count on to shut the water off to your house so that you can replace leaking water shut off valves is a real benefit.

Even if your main shut off valve leaks a bit, opening a faucet at a lower elevation than the faucet you're working on will ensure that any water that does leak into your piping leaks out that other faucet, and not the one you're working on.

On 1/11/2013 2:17 AM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 10 Jan 2013 13:19:08 -0800 (PST), Anthony
wrote:

I'm trying to take off my old faucet and replace it with a new one in
my bathroom's vanity. I had no problem shutting off the cold water
valve, but the hot one is giving me a hard time. I have about 98-99%
turned off and water still comes out of the faucet..albeit..its small
steady and solid..its not dripping. I applied W40 a couple of times,
waited and still can't shut it off completely. I am trying to avoid
using my main shutoff just for this and was wondering if there
anything else i can do. Would just taking off the handle help? Hate to
call a plumber for a small yet nagging situation. Thanks

If you're doing the faucet yourself, why would you need a plumber?
To close the main shut off?
The only chance to close the valve is to work it open and shut until
it works, or you figure it won't work. Sometimes it works.
If it doesn't close you're going to have to shut the main valve.
Or but a pail down and try to catch the water while you replace the
faucet.
There's always a chance the main shutoff won't fully close too.
But if you have a lower faucet to open - basement or bath tub - that
should take care of the leakthrough while you work on replacing the
wash basin stop and faucet. Or just replace the faucet and kick the
stop down the road. Your call on that. Depends on what plumbing work
you plan to do down the road.

As they say, "what he said". I've had the situation where I turned off
the main and it didn't work. It actually turned off about 95% but then
wouldn't go either more closed or open. I had to call the water
department to turn off the water at the buffalo box outside. Of course,
it was on a Sunday. But, as luck would have it, they had an emergency
crew working just a few blocks away, so they came right over and shut it
off. I then replaced the main valve and called the guy's cell phone.
He came right back and turned the water back on. BTW, when replacing
the shutoff under the sink, be sure to use the better valves which are
1/4 turn ball valves. They are much less likely to have this problem
.... and while you are at it, if they are not 1/4 turn valve, change them
both.

On 1/10/2013 9:48 PM, Joe wrote:

Wd 40 is not a penetrant, it is a water displacement product.

WD40 was developed as a water displacement product.

It certainly is a penetrant, but not the best one.

It is a lubricant, but there are not a lot of applications where it is
an adequate lubricant.

It can also be useful as a solvent.

Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to take off my old faucet and replace it with a new one in
my bathroom's vanity. I had no problem shutting off the cold water
valve, but the hot one is giving me a hard time. I have about 98-99%
turned off and water still comes out of the faucet..albeit..its small
steady and solid..its not dripping. I applied W40 a couple of times,
waited and still can't shut it off completely. I am trying to avoid
using my main shutoff just for this and was wondering if there
anything else i can do. Would just taking off the handle help? Hate to
call a plumber for a small yet nagging situation. Thanks

Are you saying that the shutoff valve has been turned 98-99% of the way and
it won't turn further or that it is turned all the way and has stopped
98-99% of the water.

If the latter, try tightening the packing nut (the nut the stem goes
through). Only tighten 1/8 - 1/4 turn at a time and hang on to the valve so
you don't bend anything.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Young's Law of usenet: After Nazis have been
invoked and called forth from the spirit world,
someone is sure to mention WD-40. The debate
"is it a lubricant or water displacer" is not complete
until someone explains what the letters abbrev. for.
Points are earned by quoting usenet posters of old,
Aristotle, or your own personal experiences with
WD-40. Web pages abound, and are on topic for
the debate. Regardless of how worthy an argument
is, no one is allowed to change sides. The debate
must continue to eternity.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"bud--" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 1/10/2013 9:48 PM, Joe wrote:

Wd 40 is not a penetrant, it is a water displacement product.

WD40 was developed as a water displacement product.

It certainly is a penetrant, but not the best one.

It is a lubricant, but there are not a lot of applications where it is
an adequate lubricant.

It can also be useful as a solvent.

Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to take off my old faucet and replace it with a new one in
my bathroom's vanity. I had no problem shutting off the cold water
valve, but the hot one is giving me a hard time. I have about 98-99%
turned off and water still comes out of the faucet..albeit..its small
steady and solid..its not dripping. I applied W40 a couple of times,
waited and still can't shut it off completely. I am trying to avoid
using my main shutoff just for this and was wondering if there
anything else i can do. Would just taking off the handle help? Hate to
call a plumber for a small yet nagging situation. Thanks

The general situation is that lavatory faucets and kitchen sinks and
commodes get their supply line via an angle stop, which angle stops are
notorious for their various failures and weaknesses.

Most/Many old angle stops which are multiturn and integrated with the
supply line to the faucet should be replaced with a 'better' design
which is a quarter turn instead of multi- and which has a separate
(rather than integrated/connected) supply line which attaches to the faucet.

Of course you have to turn off the water to remove and replace that
angle stop which isn't working properly anyway to turn off the hot water
supply to the faucet. Also, if you are planning on doing it yourself,
the anatomy of the connection of the angle stop you are replacing needs
to be appreciated.

If you think that it is inconvenient that this little 'failure'
(weakness) of your angle stop to turn off the hot water properly, just
think about how inconvenient it would be if the angle stop failed
catastrophically some time and resulted in flooding the house,
especially if you weren't home.

Those faulty/failing angle stops can do bad bad things.



--
Mike Easter

Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to take off my old faucet and replace it with a new one in
my bathroom's vanity. I had no problem shutting off the cold water
valve, but the hot one is giving me a hard time. I have about 98-99%
turned off and water still comes out of the faucet..albeit..its small
steady and solid..its not dripping.

I interpreted that part as meaning that you can shut off the cold water
at its angle stop which was necessary to replace its faucet, but that
you cannot completely turn off the hot water at its angle stop which
would be necessary to replace the hot water faucet.


--
Mike Easter

Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to take off my old faucet and replace it with a new one in
my bathroom's vanity. I had no problem shutting off the cold water
valve, but the hot one is giving me a hard time. I have about 98-99%
turned off and water still comes out of the faucet..albeit..its small
steady and solid..its not dripping. I applied W40 a couple of times,
waited and still can't shut it off completely. I am trying to avoid
using my main shutoff just for this and was wondering if there
anything else i can do. Would just taking off the handle help? Hate to
call a plumber for a small yet nagging situation. Thanks

I am not sure why you are trying to avoid using the "main shutoff valve",
and I am not sure if by "main shutoff valve" you mean the water shutoff
valve outside at the street or the "main shutoff valve" near where the water
comes into your home.

Sometimes, if the "main shutoff valve" doesn't completely turn off the
water, you can turn it off as much as possible, then open all the valves in
all the sinks and tubs etc and leave them open while you change the hot
water valve for the bathroom. But having everything else open, the pressure
drops in the system and you may be able to get whatever small flow there is
to only come out in the sinks, outside faucet, etc. that are below the level
of the bathroom vanity that you are working on. And, if you replace the
bathroom vanity hot water valve with another screw-on type (if that is what
happens to be there), or you replace it with a shark-fitting slip-on type
that requires no soldering, you can probably change out the hot water valve
that way. Then go ahead and do the work on the faucet change.

Good luck.

On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 10:35:12 -0500, "TomR" wrote:


I am not sure why you are trying to avoid using the "main shutoff valve",
and I am not sure if by "main shutoff valve" you mean the water shutoff
valve outside at the street or the "main shutoff valve" near where the water
comes into your home.

Sometimes, if the "main shutoff valve" doesn't completely turn off the
water, you can turn it off as much as possible, then open all the valves in
all the sinks and tubs etc and leave them open while you change the hot
water valve for the bathroom. But having everything else open, the pressure
drops in the system and you may be able to get whatever small flow there is
to only come out in the sinks, outside faucet, etc. that are below the level
of the bathroom vanity that you are working on. And, if you replace the
bathroom vanity hot water valve with another screw-on type (if that is what
happens to be there), or you replace it with a shark-fitting slip-on type
that requires no soldering, you can probably change out the hot water valve
that way. Then go ahead and do the work on the faucet change.

Good luck.


As often happens, not enough info has been posted.
There are many variables. Nobody mentioned, including me, that water
heaters commonly have in inlet valve. If that closes well you've shut
off all hot water even with the main entrance valves open.
Even city-owned Buffalo box service valves can be inoperative.
I replumbed my last 2-flat because the 50 year-old galvanized was
limed up and I had real bad flow from all the faucets.
Worked the entrance valve open/close repeatedly, but never stopped the
flow, which was maybe .5 GPM from the basement laundry tub faucet,
which was lowest and closest to the entrance valve.
Worked the Buffalo box valve repeatedly, and when bottomed it didn't
perceptibly change the flow. Since I never got many turns on it I
figured it was bad, but didn't know how bad.
Since I wasn't about to call the city and possibly get into
permitting, inspections, etc. I just forged ahead, Never been a
licensed plumber.
Made up a new entrance valve with taped nipple in, valve open.
Had a buddy hold a washtub under the union and prepare to catch the
water when I removed the old main entrance valve from the lead service
line.
Broke the union and moved the pipe aside. A bit more than the .5 GPM
coming out of the open laundry tub faucet.
But that was only what the closed valve was letting through.
Put the wrench to the valve and removed it.
A gusher shot clear across the room. My buddy got soaked trying to
put the washtub in front of him. The gusher hit him hard.
Since I had the new valve open and fitted, I got it on real quick,
closed it, and tightened everything down. I got soaked by spray too.
Probably let a few gallons of water loose in the 10 or so seconds it
took to get dry connected
"Closing" the Buffalo valve did hardly anything.
The limed up pipes is what fooled me. Almost completely closed in
some places.

Vic Smith wrote:
On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 10:35:12 -0500, "TomR" wrote:


I am not sure why you are trying to avoid using the "main shutoff
valve", and I am not sure if by "main shutoff valve" you mean the
water shutoff valve outside at the street or the "main shutoff
valve" near where the water comes into your home.

Sometimes, if the "main shutoff valve" doesn't completely turn off
the water, you can turn it off as much as possible, then open all
the valves in all the sinks and tubs etc and leave them open while
you change the hot water valve for the bathroom. But having
everything else open, the pressure drops in the system and you may
be able to get whatever small flow there is to only come out in the
sinks, outside faucet, etc. that are below the level of the bathroom
vanity that you are working on. And, if you replace the bathroom
vanity hot water valve with another screw-on type (if that is what
happens to be there), or you replace it with a shark-fitting slip-on
type that requires no soldering, you can probably change out the hot
water valve that way. Then go ahead and do the work on the faucet
change.

Good luck.

As often happens, not enough info has been posted.
There are many variables. Nobody mentioned, including me, that water
heaters commonly have in inlet valve. If that closes well you've shut
off all hot water even with the main entrance valves open.

Wow, I didn't even think about that. Good suggestion.

Even city-owned Buffalo box service valves can be inoperative.

I don't know what a Buffalo box service valve is, but I may have one. I
have a property where I need to have the water shut off at the main valve at
the curb so I can replace the main valve on the inside by the water meter.
I have a shutoff key for the valve at the curb, but it won't turn. So, I
asked the town to turn it off and it won't turn for them either. They tried
pouring some penetrating oil in and letting it sit for a few days and then
came back and tried it again. Still no luck -- it won't turn for them. So,
the latest is that they are going to come back this week and dig it up and
"replace the box" -- that's the term they used. Maybe that means I have a
"Buffalo box", I don't know, but they are going to "replace the box",
whatever it is.

I replumbed my last 2-flat because the 50 year-old galvanized was
limed up and I had real bad flow from all the faucets.
Worked the entrance valve open/close repeatedly, but never stopped the
flow, which was maybe .5 GPM from the basement laundry tub faucet,
which was lowest and closest to the entrance valve.
Worked the Buffalo box valve repeatedly, and when bottomed it didn't
perceptibly change the flow. Since I never got many turns on it I
figured it was bad, but didn't know how bad.
Since I wasn't about to call the city and possibly get into
permitting, inspections, etc. I just forged ahead, Never been a
licensed plumber.
Made up a new entrance valve with taped nipple in, valve open.
Had a buddy hold a washtub under the union and prepare to catch the
water when I removed the old main entrance valve from the lead service
line.
Broke the union and moved the pipe aside. A bit more than the .5 GPM
coming out of the open laundry tub faucet.
But that was only what the closed valve was letting through.
Put the wrench to the valve and removed it.
A gusher shot clear across the room. My buddy got soaked trying to
put the washtub in front of him. The gusher hit him hard.
Since I had the new valve open and fitted, I got it on real quick,
closed it, and tightened everything down. I got soaked by spray too.
Probably let a few gallons of water loose in the 10 or so seconds it
took to get dry connected.

Very funny story! I could easily see myself doing that in similar
circumstances. In my case, it's no problem to get the town to turn off the
main at the curb -- no questions asked -- even if it means they have to dig
it up and
"replace the box".

Of course, now I have to Google "Buffalo box".

On Jan 12, 2:23*pm, "TomR" wrote:
Vic Smith wrote:
On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 10:35:12 -0500, "TomR" wrote:

I am not sure why you are trying to avoid using the "main shutoff
valve", and I am not sure if by "main shutoff valve" you mean the
water shutoff valve outside at the street or the "main shutoff
valve" near where the water comes into your home.

Sometimes, if the "main shutoff valve" doesn't completely turn off
the water, you can turn it off as much as possible, then open all
the valves in all the sinks and tubs etc and leave them open while
you change the hot water valve for the bathroom. *But having
everything else open, the pressure drops in the system and you may
be able to get whatever small flow there is to only come out in the
sinks, outside faucet, etc. that are below the level of the bathroom
vanity that you are working on. *And, if you replace the bathroom
vanity hot water valve with another screw-on type (if that is what
happens to be there), or you replace it with a shark-fitting slip-on
type that requires no soldering, you can probably change out the hot
water valve that way. *Then go ahead and do the work on the faucet
change.

Good luck.
As often happens, not enough info has been posted.
There are many variables. *Nobody mentioned, including me, that water
heaters commonly have in inlet valve. *If that closes well you've shut
off all hot water even with the main entrance valves open.

Wow, I didn't even think about that. *Good suggestion.

Even city-owned Buffalo box service valves can be inoperative.

I don't know what a Buffalo box service valve is, but I may have one. *I
have a property where I need to have the water shut off at the main valve at
the curb so I can replace the main valve on the inside by the water meter..
I have a shutoff key for the valve at the curb, but it won't turn. *So, I
asked the town to turn it off and it won't turn for them either. *They tried
pouring some penetrating oil in and letting it sit for a few days and then
came back and tried it again. *Still no luck -- it won't turn for them. *So,
the latest is that they are going to come back this week and dig it up and
"replace the box" -- that's the term they used. *Maybe that means I have a
"Buffalo box", I don't know, but they are going to "replace the box",
whatever it is.





I replumbed my last 2-flat because the 50 year-old galvanized was
limed up and I had real bad flow from all the faucets.
Worked the entrance valve open/close repeatedly, but never stopped the
flow, which was maybe *.5 GPM from the basement laundry tub faucet,
which was lowest and closest to the entrance valve.
Worked the Buffalo box valve repeatedly, and when bottomed it didn't
perceptibly change the flow. *Since I never got many turns on it I
figured it was bad, but didn't know how bad.
Since I wasn't about to call the city and possibly get into
permitting, inspections, etc. I just forged ahead, *Never been a
licensed plumber.
Made up a new entrance valve with taped nipple in, valve open.
Had a buddy hold a washtub under the union and prepare to catch the
water when I removed the old main entrance valve from the lead service
line.
Broke the union and moved the pipe aside. *A bit more than the .5 GPM
coming out of the open laundry tub faucet.
But that was only what the closed valve was letting through.
Put the wrench to the valve and removed it.
A gusher shot clear across the room. *My buddy got soaked trying to
put the washtub in front of him. *The gusher hit him hard.
Since I had the new valve open and fitted, I got it on real quick,
closed it, and tightened everything down. *I got soaked by spray too.
Probably let a few gallons of water loose in the 10 or so seconds it
took to get dry connected.

Very funny story! *I could easily see myself doing that in similar
circumstances. *In my case, it's no problem to get the town to turn off the
main at the curb -- no questions asked -- even if it means they have to dig
it up and
"replace the box".

Of course, now I have to Google "Buffalo box".- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What the town is proposing to replace is commonly called a buffalo
box. No idea why.