Is there a way to test a single gang outlet not connected to a circuit?

I had an issue with power loss from two outlets and a small room this
morning. The breaker is not the issue since other outlets on the same
circuit are live. I followed the run trying to find a break somewhere. From
the panel, the run Ts off. To the left, all outlets function. To the right,
it passes a junction box, then to an outlet, which is fine. From that outlet
it runs to another outlet, which is dead and from there, the rest of the
circuit is dead. Testing the outlet while connected displayed 1.2 volts as
did the other outlets after that. After disconnecting the outlet and
checking the feed wire, it puts out 120 volts. Therefore, the obvious answer
is the outlet, right? But checking the outlet off the circuit, indicates
proper continuity with the two side connections (screws) respectively, as
well as the prong slot with the screws. I know continuity isn't always a
thorough test, but in this case, it appears logical to have in order for
power to pass. Therefore, arriving to that question if it can be tested off
the circuit.

Thank you

Meanie wrote:
Is there a way to test a single gang outlet not connected to a circuit?

I had an issue with power loss from two outlets and a small room this
morning. The breaker is not the issue since other outlets on the same
circuit are live. I followed the run trying to find a break somewhere. From
the panel, the run Ts off. To the left, all outlets function. To the right,
it passes a junction box, then to an outlet, which is fine. From that outlet
it runs to another outlet, which is dead and from there, the rest of the
circuit is dead. Testing the outlet while connected displayed 1.2 volts as
did the other outlets after that. After disconnecting the outlet and
checking the feed wire, it puts out 120 volts. Therefore, the obvious answer
is the outlet, right? But checking the outlet off the circuit, indicates
proper continuity with the two side connections (screws) respectively, as
well as the prong slot with the screws. I know continuity isn't always a
thorough test, but in this case, it appears logical to have in order for
power to pass. Therefore, arriving to that question if it can be tested off
the circuit.

Thank you

Hi,
If that is the case, just shot gun it by replacing the outlet with a new
one.(The re not that expensive)

In article , "Meanie" wrote:

Is there a way to test a single gang outlet not connected to a circuit?

I had an issue with power loss from two outlets and a small room this
morning. The breaker is not the issue since other outlets on the same
circuit are live. I followed the run trying to find a break somewhere. From
the panel, the run Ts off. To the left, all outlets function. To the right,
it passes a junction box, then to an outlet, which is fine. From that outlet
it runs to another outlet, which is dead and from there, the rest of the
circuit is dead. Testing the outlet while connected displayed 1.2 volts as
did the other outlets after that. After disconnecting the outlet and
checking the feed wire, it puts out 120 volts. Therefore, the obvious answer
is the outlet, right? But checking the outlet off the circuit, indicates
proper continuity with the two side connections (screws) respectively, as
well as the prong slot with the screws. I know continuity isn't always a
thorough test, but in this case, it appears logical to have in order for
power to pass. Therefore, arriving to that question if it can be tested off
the circuit.

Thank you

I'd be sticking to checking voltage rather than continuity, and do so
with a load on the circuit. Testing voltages with no load can mislead
you.

If you have a dead outlet after a good outlet, it could be a bad
connection at the good outlet.

On Dec 1, 8:47*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article , "Meanie" wrote:
Is there a way to test a single gang outlet not connected to a circuit?

I had an issue with power loss from two outlets and a small room this
morning. The breaker is not the issue since other outlets on the same
circuit are live. I followed the run trying to find a break somewhere. From
the panel, the run Ts off. To the left, all outlets function. To the right,
it passes a junction box, then to an outlet, which is fine. From that outlet
it runs to another outlet, which is dead and from there, the rest of the
circuit is dead. Testing the outlet while connected displayed 1.2 volts as
did the other outlets after that. After disconnecting the outlet and
checking the feed wire, it puts out 120 volts. Therefore, the obvious answer
is the outlet, right? But checking the outlet off the circuit, indicates
proper continuity with the two side connections (screws) respectively, as
well as the prong slot with the screws. I know continuity isn't always a
thorough test, but in this case, it appears logical to have in order for
power to pass. Therefore, arriving to that question if it can be tested off
the circuit.

Thank you

I'd be sticking to checking voltage rather than continuity, and do so
with a load on the circuit. Testing voltages with no load can mislead
you.

If you have a dead outlet after a good outlet, it could be a bad
connection at the good outlet.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ditto on having a load connected. I would have a light bulb at the
first dead outlet as well as one at the last powered outlet. Or a
radio at the first dead outlet if it is not visible from the last live
outlet. Assuming the wire irself is ok, there are only 2 places to
look, at the last live outlet and the first dead outlet.

BUT! Are you absolutely sure there is no junction box between the
last live outlet and the first dead outlet. I recently found in a
situation exactly like yours that there was a junction box between a
live outlet and a dead one. Illegal to have a box without visible
access, but these things happen.

On Sat, 1 Dec 2012 21:34:34 -0500, "Meanie" wrote:

Is there a way to test a single gang outlet not connected to a circuit?

I had an issue with power loss from two outlets and a small room this
morning. The breaker is not the issue since other outlets on the same
circuit are live. I followed the run trying to find a break somewhere. From
the panel, the run Ts off. To the left, all outlets function. To the right,
it passes a junction box, then to an outlet, which is fine. From that outlet
it runs to another outlet, which is dead and from there, the rest of the
circuit is dead. Testing the outlet while connected displayed 1.2 volts as
did the other outlets after that. After disconnecting the outlet and
checking the feed wire, it puts out 120 volts. Therefore, the obvious answer
is the outlet, right? But checking the outlet off the circuit, indicates
proper continuity with the two side connections (screws) respectively, as
well as the prong slot with the screws. I know continuity isn't always a
thorough test, but in this case, it appears logical to have in order for
power to pass. Therefore, arriving to that question if it can be tested off
the circuit.

Thank you

I'd replace the receptacle, but I wouldn't throw away the old one for
a couple days.of use of the new one. It sounds like it's good.
It's amazing how confusing testing can be.

When I was about 30, a church pastor in Brooklyn hired me as a
handyman to fix they're wiring. Old beautiful church, maybe from
1890. Bulky church with cement walls in the hall and wood paneling
in the study. Had to run a wire outside the cement to the ceiling
fixture, and boy were there lots of wires behind the baseboard outlet.
It all worked when I left, but I have doubts how long it lasted. Of
course I hadn't charged much.

Screw the wires on, not back stab them.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...

Hi,
If that is the case, just shot gun it by replacing the outlet with a new
one.(The re not that expensive)

Yes, I've seen this when the outlets are backstabbed.

The HO kept telling me "it can't be a problem with this
socket, cause it works....." and took some Jedi Knight
powers to get that outlet taken apart.

If you need a visual, plug four extension cords, one into
the next, in the form of a mule train. One into the other.
Remove plug 3 from cord socket 2. And then ask the
customer why sockets 3 and 4 don't work. Every time
he tries to plug plug 3 into cord 2, tell him not to.
Look! (plugs tester into cord 2) this can't be the problem
because the socket #2 still works!

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
...

If you have a dead outlet after a good outlet,
it could be a bad connection at the good outlet.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Screw the wires on, not back stab them.

Interesting, they were back stabbed in. I'll buy anew and use the screws.

"hr(bob) " wrote in message
news:17a3dc84-b76b-41af-88df-

BUT! Are you absolutely sure there is no junction box between the
last live outlet and the first dead outlet. I recently found in a
situation exactly like yours that there was a junction box between a
live outlet and a dead one. Illegal to have a box without visible
access, but these things happen.

Yes, I'm sure. All wires are exposed and running along the joists of my
basement, which is currently bare as I prep for the installation of a drop
ceiling.

Hmm. Well, even a stopped clock is right,
twice a day (analog only). The one I fixed
which wasn't sending power down stream,
that was also back stabbed.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Meanie" wrote in message ...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Screw the wires on, not back stab them.

Interesting, they were back stabbed in. I'll buy anew and use the screws.

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 18:47:30 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article , "Meanie" wrote:

Is there a way to test a single gang outlet not connected to a circuit?

I had an issue with power loss from two outlets and a small room this
morning. The breaker is not the issue since other outlets on the same
circuit are live. I followed the run trying to find a break somewhere. From
the panel, the run Ts off. To the left, all outlets function. To the right,
it passes a junction box, then to an outlet, which is fine. From that outlet
it runs to another outlet, which is dead and from there, the rest of the
circuit is dead. Testing the outlet while connected displayed 1.2 volts as
did the other outlets after that. After disconnecting the outlet and
checking the feed wire, it puts out 120 volts. Therefore, the obvious answer
is the outlet, right? But checking the outlet off the circuit, indicates
proper continuity with the two side connections (screws) respectively, as
well as the prong slot with the screws. I know continuity isn't always a
thorough test, but in this case, it appears logical to have in order for
power to pass. Therefore, arriving to that question if it can be tested off
the circuit.

Thank you

I'd be sticking to checking voltage rather than continuity, and do so
with a load on the circuit. Testing voltages with no load can mislead
you.

If you have a dead outlet after a good outlet, it could be a bad
connection at the good outlet.
It is USUALLY a bad connection at the last good outlet. Not always
- but very often.

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 18:47:30 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article , "Meanie" wrote:

Is there a way to test a single gang outlet not connected to a circuit?

I had an issue with power loss from two outlets and a small room this
morning. The breaker is not the issue since other outlets on the same
circuit are live. I followed the run trying to find a break somewhere. From
the panel, the run Ts off. To the left, all outlets function. To the right,
it passes a junction box, then to an outlet, which is fine. From that outlet
it runs to another outlet, which is dead and from there, the rest of the
circuit is dead. Testing the outlet while connected displayed 1.2 volts as
did the other outlets after that. After disconnecting the outlet and
checking the feed wire, it puts out 120 volts. Therefore, the obvious answer
is the outlet, right? But checking the outlet off the circuit, indicates
proper continuity with the two side connections (screws) respectively, as
well as the prong slot with the screws. I know continuity isn't always a
thorough test, but in this case, it appears logical to have in order for
power to pass. Therefore, arriving to that question if it can be tested off
the circuit.

Thank you

I'd be sticking to checking voltage rather than continuity, and do so
with a load on the circuit. Testing voltages with no load can mislead
you.

If you have a dead outlet after a good outlet, it could be a bad
connection at the good outlet.
It is USUALLY a bad connection at the last good outlet. Not always
- but very often.

In article ,
wrote:

On Sat, 01 Dec 2012 18:47:30 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:


If you have a dead outlet after a good outlet, it could be a bad
connection at the good outlet.

It is USUALLY a bad connection at the last good outlet. Not always
- but very often.


First draft of my post contained the word "usually," but I deleted it
before I posted, because I figured someone would complain about that!
Hard to win on usenet.

I'm willing to bet dollars to donuts that's where the problem was right there.

I wouldn't even bother buying a new receptacle. I'd put the wires on the screw terminals, and that should fix the problem. Those back stab terminals have been nothing but problems since they came out with the stupid things.
Use the screw terminals instead, even thought they take a few minutes, and avoid hours of frustration trying to locate the wiring problems associated with back stabbed connections.

"nestork" wrote in message
...

Meanie;2970774 Wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...-
Screw the wires on, not back stab them.
-
Interesting, they were back stabbed in. I'll buy anew and use the
screws.

I'm willing to bet dollars to donuts that's where the problem was right
there.

I wouldn't even bother buying a new receptacle. I'd put the wires on
the screw terminals, and that should fix the problem. Those back stab
terminals have been nothing but problems since they came out with the
stupid things.
Use the screw terminals instead, even thought they take a few minutes,
and avoid hours of frustration trying to locate the wiring problems
associated with back stabbed connections.

nestork

There's too much variability in the quality of back-stab outlets in my view.
I've had problems with them too. But, I do like the type that takes the
straight wire and then clamps it tight via a screw. Bending the wire and
getting it just right around the screw is what takes the time.

Tomsic

I also like the back clamp type. I've used them more than once.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

".-." wrote in message ...

There's too much variability in the quality of back-stab outlets in my view.
I've had problems with them too. But, I do like the type that takes the
straight wire and then clamps it tight via a screw. Bending the wire and
getting it just right around the screw is what takes the time.

Tomsic

..-. wrote:
"nestork" wrote in message
...

Meanie;2970774 Wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...-
Screw the wires on, not back stab them.
-
Interesting, they were back stabbed in. I'll buy anew and use the
screws.

I'm willing to bet dollars to donuts that's where the problem was
right there.

I wouldn't even bother buying a new receptacle. I'd put the wires on
the screw terminals, and that should fix the problem. Those back
stab terminals have been nothing but problems since they came out
with the stupid things.
Use the screw terminals instead, even thought they take a few
minutes, and avoid hours of frustration trying to locate the wiring
problems associated with back stabbed connections.

nestork

There's too much variability in the quality of back-stab outlets in
my view. I've had problems with them too. But, I do like the type
that takes the straight wire and then clamps it tight via a screw. Bending
the wire and getting it just right around the screw is what
takes the time.

I like them too. I think they are called "back wired" outlets, and that's
what I always look for even though they may cost a little more than some of
the other outlets on the shelf.

On Tue, 4 Dec 2012 07:47:35 -0500, ".-." wrote:


"nestork" wrote in message
...

Meanie;2970774 Wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...-
Screw the wires on, not back stab them.
-
Interesting, they were back stabbed in. I'll buy anew and use the
screws.

I'm willing to bet dollars to donuts that's where the problem was right
there.

I wouldn't even bother buying a new receptacle. I'd put the wires on
the screw terminals, and that should fix the problem. Those back stab
terminals have been nothing but problems since they came out with the
stupid things.
Use the screw terminals instead, even thought they take a few minutes,
and avoid hours of frustration trying to locate the wiring problems
associated with back stabbed connections.

nestork

There's too much variability in the quality of back-stab outlets in my view.
I've had problems with them too. But, I do like the type that takes the
straight wire and then clamps it tight via a screw. Bending the wire and
getting it just right around the screw is what takes the time.

Agreed. I use the outlets and switches that clamp onto the wire.
Backstabs should be banned (they're only 14ga anyway) and twisting the
wire around the screw takes too much time and effort. The back clamps
are a great compromise. The outlets that don't have the clamps seem
to be the $.69 specials.

On Tue, 4 Dec 2012 11:25:00 -0500, "TomR" wrote:

.-. wrote:
"nestork" wrote in message
...

Meanie;2970774 Wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...-
Screw the wires on, not back stab them.
-
Interesting, they were back stabbed in. I'll buy anew and use the
screws.

I'm willing to bet dollars to donuts that's where the problem was
right there.

I wouldn't even bother buying a new receptacle. I'd put the wires on
the screw terminals, and that should fix the problem. Those back
stab terminals have been nothing but problems since they came out
with the stupid things.
Use the screw terminals instead, even thought they take a few
minutes, and avoid hours of frustration trying to locate the wiring
problems associated with back stabbed connections.

nestork

There's too much variability in the quality of back-stab outlets in
my view. I've had problems with them too. But, I do like the type
that takes the straight wire and then clamps it tight via a screw. Bending
the wire and getting it just right around the screw is what
takes the time.

I like them too. I think they are called "back wired" outlets, and that's
what I always look for even though they may cost a little more than some of
the other outlets on the shelf.

They cost a little more because they're a better grade of outlet. The
$.69 (or is that $.39) specials are a waste of time.