I have a 40 year old Stihl chainsaw that is giving me fits.
It had not been used in probably 6 months or more.
Even back then, it was having problems, with not wanting
to start, stalling when going back to idle, etc.

I got it running this time and after fooling around with it
was able to actually use it to cut up one large tree. It
usually will eventually start from cold, after a lot of
fiddling between choking, not choking, etc,
but then has trouble transitioning
to full throttle. It won't idle, it stalls if you try to let it
idle.
But at full throttle, it ran OK and cut like a champ. You
just can't let it go back to less than maybe 1/4 power or
it stalls out. I also observed gas dripping from the carb
at times. And at times after it's run, it's very difficult to
start again.

I took the Stilotson carb apart and it all looked good, except for
a small fuel screen in the carb. It was packed with gunk. Otherwise
it looked good, no rust, no other signs of fouling. I cleaned it
out with carb cleaner, compressed air, put it back together.
Same problem.

I ordered a carb kit and took it apart again today. Cleaned it
again with compressed air, including this time I could take out
the welch plug. All the passages look like brand new. The
kit included two new diaphrams that form the fuel pump,
new needle valve, gaskets. etc. The old diaphrams
were still intact, but they\had more stretch/play then
the new ones. Was hoping this was the problem. Put it
all back together again, following the service manual, so I'm
pretty sure it's right. Still same problems.

Tried squirting a bit of fuel into the carb directly and it fires
right up. Did that several times. Without the squirt, it's much
harder to start.

I've taken it apart to inspect the fuel line to the tank and filter
which is inside the tank. I can suck or blow on the line,
pinching off the filter end and no evidence of any air leaks.
Fuel filter is clean.

I put a new plug in and also have tried pull starting it with
the plug out, but connected. Good spark. Also when taking
the plug out after having tried to start it for a long time, the
plug is dry. Acts like it's not getting fuel....

So, from a bit of searching, it looks like one of the other
potential problems is the impulse line. This carb uses a
line from the crankcase to supply alternating pressure
and vacuum that works the fuel pump diaphrams in the
carb. Apparently if the crankcase seals are kaput, then
it may not get enough pressure/vacuum. I've inspected
the hose, it looks OK. With the sparkplug out and pulling
the starter, I can feel some suction, some puffing on the
end of that impulse hose with my finger. But not a lot.
Anyone know how much you should be able to feel?
Or have any other ideas?

On Sat, 17 Nov 2012 13:25:34 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

I have a 40 year old Stihl chainsaw that is giving me fits.
It had not been used in probably 6 months or more.
Even back then, it was having problems, with not wanting
to start, stalling when going back to idle, etc.

I got it running this time and after fooling around with it
was able to actually use it to cut up one large tree. It
usually will eventually start from cold, after a lot of
fiddling between choking, not choking, etc,
but then has trouble transitioning
to full throttle. It won't idle, it stalls if you try to let it
idle.
But at full throttle, it ran OK and cut like a champ. You
just can't let it go back to less than maybe 1/4 power or
it stalls out. I also observed gas dripping from the carb
at times. And at times after it's run, it's very difficult to
start again.

I took the Stilotson carb apart and it all looked good, except for
a small fuel screen in the carb. It was packed with gunk. Otherwise
it looked good, no rust, no other signs of fouling. I cleaned it
out with carb cleaner, compressed air, put it back together.
Same problem.

I ordered a carb kit and took it apart again today. Cleaned it
again with compressed air, including this time I could take out
the welch plug. All the passages look like brand new. The
kit included two new diaphrams that form the fuel pump,
new needle valve, gaskets. etc. The old diaphrams
were still intact, but they\had more stretch/play then
the new ones. Was hoping this was the problem. Put it
all back together again, following the service manual, so I'm
pretty sure it's right. Still same problems.

Tried squirting a bit of fuel into the carb directly and it fires
right up. Did that several times. Without the squirt, it's much
harder to start.

I've taken it apart to inspect the fuel line to the tank and filter
which is inside the tank. I can suck or blow on the line,
pinching off the filter end and no evidence of any air leaks.
Fuel filter is clean.

I put a new plug in and also have tried pull starting it with
the plug out, but connected. Good spark. Also when taking
the plug out after having tried to start it for a long time, the
plug is dry. Acts like it's not getting fuel....

So, from a bit of searching, it looks like one of the other
potential problems is the impulse line. This carb uses a
line from the crankcase to supply alternating pressure
and vacuum that works the fuel pump diaphrams in the
carb. Apparently if the crankcase seals are kaput, then
it may not get enough pressure/vacuum. I've inspected
the hose, it looks OK. With the sparkplug out and pulling
the starter, I can feel some suction, some puffing on the
end of that impulse hose with my finger. But not a lot.
Anyone know how much you should be able to feel?
Or have any other ideas?

No expert but a couple of thoughts.

1) Tip of a High/Low adjustment screw is bent
2) Screws not adjusted correctly
3) If the body has a venturi it can be clogged - clean the passage
with a SS wire plucked from a wire brush (DO NOT BREAK WIRE)
3) Soak the carb overnight in a carb cleaner

HTH

On Sat, 17 Nov 2012 13:56:59 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 17 Nov 2012 13:25:34 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

I have a 40 year old Stihl chainsaw that is giving me fits.
It had not been used in probably 6 months or more.
Even back then, it was having problems, with not wanting
to start, stalling when going back to idle, etc.

I got it running this time and after fooling around with it
was able to actually use it to cut up one large tree. It
usually will eventually start from cold, after a lot of
fiddling between choking, not choking, etc,
but then has trouble transitioning
to full throttle. It won't idle, it stalls if you try to let it
idle.
But at full throttle, it ran OK and cut like a champ. You
just can't let it go back to less than maybe 1/4 power or
it stalls out. I also observed gas dripping from the carb
at times. And at times after it's run, it's very difficult to
start again.

I took the Stilotson carb apart and it all looked good, except for
a small fuel screen in the carb. It was packed with gunk. Otherwise
it looked good, no rust, no other signs of fouling. I cleaned it
out with carb cleaner, compressed air, put it back together.
Same problem.

I ordered a carb kit and took it apart again today. Cleaned it
again with compressed air, including this time I could take out
the welch plug. All the passages look like brand new. The
kit included two new diaphrams that form the fuel pump,
new needle valve, gaskets. etc. The old diaphrams
were still intact, but they\had more stretch/play then
the new ones. Was hoping this was the problem. Put it
all back together again, following the service manual, so I'm
pretty sure it's right. Still same problems.

Tried squirting a bit of fuel into the carb directly and it fires
right up. Did that several times. Without the squirt, it's much
harder to start.

I've taken it apart to inspect the fuel line to the tank and filter
which is inside the tank. I can suck or blow on the line,
pinching off the filter end and no evidence of any air leaks.
Fuel filter is clean.

I put a new plug in and also have tried pull starting it with
the plug out, but connected. Good spark. Also when taking
the plug out after having tried to start it for a long time, the
plug is dry. Acts like it's not getting fuel....

So, from a bit of searching, it looks like one of the other
potential problems is the impulse line. This carb uses a
line from the crankcase to supply alternating pressure
and vacuum that works the fuel pump diaphrams in the
carb. Apparently if the crankcase seals are kaput, then
it may not get enough pressure/vacuum. I've inspected
the hose, it looks OK. With the sparkplug out and pulling
the starter, I can feel some suction, some puffing on the
end of that impulse hose with my finger. But not a lot.
Anyone know how much you should be able to feel?
Or have any other ideas?

No expert but a couple of thoughts.

1) Tip of a High/Low adjustment screw is bent
2) Screws not adjusted correctly
3) If the body has a venturi it can be clogged - clean the passage
with a SS wire plucked from a wire brush (DO NOT BREAK WIRE)
3) Soak the carb overnight in a carb cleaner

HTH
Make SURE the crankshaft seals are good. If they leak the engine
runs lean - more noticeable at idle - and is hard or impossible to
start. 2 stroke engines are VERY fussy that way.

On Nov 17, 5:15*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 17 Nov 2012 13:56:59 -0800, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 17 Nov 2012 13:25:34 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

I have a 40 year old Stihl chainsaw that is giving me fits.
It had not been used in probably 6 months or more.
Even back then, it was having problems, with not wanting
to start, stalling when going back to idle, etc.

I got it running this time and after fooling around with it
was able to actually use it to cut up one large tree. *It
usually will eventually start from cold, after a lot of
fiddling between choking, not choking, etc,
but then has trouble transitioning
to full throttle. * It won't idle, it stalls if you try to let it
idle.
But at full throttle, it ran OK and cut like a champ. *You
just can't let it go back to less than maybe 1/4 power or
it stalls out. *I also observed gas dripping from the carb
at times. *And at times after it's run, it's very difficult to
start again.

I took the Stilotson carb apart and it all looked good, except for
a small fuel screen in the carb. *It was packed with gunk. *Otherwise
it looked good, no rust, no other signs of fouling. *I cleaned it
out with carb cleaner, compressed air, put it back together.
Same problem.

I ordered a carb kit and took it apart again today. * Cleaned it
again with compressed air, including this time I could take out
the welch plug. *All the passages look like brand new. *The
kit included two new diaphrams that form the fuel pump,
new needle valve, gaskets. etc. * The old diaphrams
were still intact, but they\had more stretch/play then
the new ones. * Was hoping this was the problem. *Put it
all back together again, following the service manual, so I'm
pretty sure it's right. *Still same problems.

Tried squirting a bit of fuel into the carb directly and it fires
right up. *Did that several times. *Without the squirt, it's much
harder to start.

I've taken it apart to inspect the fuel line to the tank and filter
which is inside the tank. * I can suck or blow on the line,
pinching off the filter end and no evidence of any air leaks.
Fuel filter is clean.

I put a new plug in and also have tried pull starting it with
the plug out, but connected. *Good spark. *Also when taking
the plug out after having tried to start it for a long time, the
plug is dry. *Acts like it's not getting fuel....

So, from a bit of searching, it looks like one of the other
potential problems is the impulse line. *This carb uses a
line from the crankcase to supply alternating pressure
and vacuum that works the fuel pump diaphrams in the
carb. *Apparently if the crankcase seals are kaput, then
it may not get enough pressure/vacuum. *I've inspected
the hose, it looks OK. * With the sparkplug out and pulling
the starter, I can feel some suction, some puffing on the
end of that impulse hose with my finger. * But not a lot.
Anyone know how much you should be able to feel?
Or have any other ideas?

No expert but a couple of thoughts.

1) Tip of a High/Low adjustment screw is bent
2) Screws not adjusted correctly
3) If the body has a venturi it can be clogged - clean the passage
with a SS wire plucked from a wire brush (DO NOT BREAK WIRE)
3) Soak the carb overnight in a carb cleaner

HTH

* Make SURE the crankshaft seals are good. If they leak the engine
runs lean - more noticeable at idle - and is hard or impossible to
start. 2 stroke engines are VERY fussy that way.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

From where I've been so far, that seem like one of the
posibilities left. Only problem is, how can you tell if
they are leaking or not? The service manual has the test
procedure, which boils down to removing the carb,
removing the muffler, bolting a testing adapter where
the carb was, bolting a blocking plate over the exhaust,
getting the piston to TDC, then applying pressure and
vacuum to the test adapter, therby pressurizing
the crancase, to see if it holds about 7 psi.

Only problem is, I don't have the test adapter or blocking
plate. Not sure much can be determined by finding the
seals and looking at them. And by the time I'm there,
might as well just replace them. Any ideas on another
way to test?

wrote in message
...
I have a 40 year old Stihl chainsaw that is giving me fits.
It had not been used in probably 6 months or more.
Even back then, it was having problems, with not wanting
to start, stalling when going back to idle, etc.

................................................. ..........
carb. Apparently if the crankcase seals are kaput, then
it may not get enough pressure/vacuum. I've inspected
the hose, it looks OK. With the sparkplug out and pulling
the starter, I can feel some suction, some puffing on the
end of that impulse hose with my finger. But not a lot.
Anyone know how much you should be able to feel?
Or have any other ideas?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yf8alC0x9mY

A mechanic I knew, used to check for vacuum leaks by spraying ether on the
vac line, while the engine was running. If the line was leaking, the motor
speed would change. Not sure that technique applies, here.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

Make SURE the crankshaft seals are good. If they leak the engine
runs lean - more noticeable at idle - and is hard or impossible to
start. 2 stroke engines are VERY fussy that way.- Hide quoted text -


From where I've been so far, that seem like one of the
posibilities left. Only problem is, how can you tell if
they are leaking or not? The service manual has the test
procedure, which boils down to removing the carb,
removing the muffler, bolting a testing adapter where
the carb was, bolting a blocking plate over the exhaust,
getting the piston to TDC, then applying pressure and
vacuum to the test adapter, therby pressurizing
the crancase, to see if it holds about 7 psi.

Only problem is, I don't have the test adapter or blocking
plate. Not sure much can be determined by finding the
seals and looking at them. And by the time I'm there,
might as well just replace them. Any ideas on another
way to test?

On 11/17/2012 7:27 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
A mechanic I knew, used to check for vacuum leaks by spraying ether on the
vac line, while the engine was running. If the line was leaking, the motor
speed would change. Not sure that technique applies, here.


You can also unscrew the tip from a propane torch, slip a length of fuel
hose on it for convenience and crack the valve open and run the tip of
the hose over suspected leaks and the engine will speed up. I
think the propane would be much safer to use than ether. My personal
choice for finding vacuum leaks is my ultrasonic leak detector. I use it
mostly for all types of pressurized gas leak detection. ^_^

http://www.testersandtools.com/Ampro...or-ULD-300.php

http://tinyurl.com/adqqmok

TDD

On Nov 17, 9:25*pm, "
wrote:
I have a 40 year old Stihl chainsaw that is giving me fits.
It had not been used in probably 6 months or more.
Even back then, it was having problems, with not wanting
to start, stalling when going back to idle, etc.

I got it running this time and after fooling around with it
was able to actually use it to cut up one large tree. *It
usually will eventually start from cold, after a lot of
fiddling between choking, not choking, etc,
but then has trouble transitioning
to full throttle. * It won't idle, it stalls if you try to let it
idle.
But at full throttle, it ran OK and cut like a champ. *You
just can't let it go back to less than maybe 1/4 power or
it stalls out. *I also observed gas dripping from the carb
at times. *And at times after it's run, it's very difficult to
start again.

I took the Stilotson carb apart and it all looked good, except for
a small fuel screen in the carb. *It was packed with gunk. *Otherwise
it looked good, no rust, no other signs of fouling. *I cleaned it
out with carb cleaner, compressed air, put it back together.
Same problem.

I ordered a carb kit and took it apart again today. * Cleaned it
again with compressed air, including this time I could take out
the welch plug. *All the passages look like brand new. *The
kit included two new diaphrams that form the fuel pump,
new needle valve, gaskets. etc. * The old diaphrams
were still intact, but they\had more stretch/play then
the new ones. * Was hoping this was the problem. *Put it
all back together again, following the service manual, so I'm
pretty sure it's right. *Still same problems.

Tried squirting a bit of fuel into the carb directly and it fires
right up. *Did that several times. *Without the squirt, it's much
harder to start.

I've taken it apart to inspect the fuel line to the tank and filter
which is inside the tank. * I can suck or blow on the line,
pinching off the filter end and no evidence of any air leaks.
Fuel filter is clean.

I put a new plug in and also have tried pull starting it with
the plug out, but connected. *Good spark. *Also when taking
the plug out after having tried to start it for a long time, the
plug is dry. *Acts like it's not getting fuel....

So, from a bit of searching, it looks like one of the other
potential problems is the impulse line. *This carb uses a
line from the crankcase to supply alternating pressure
and vacuum that works the fuel pump diaphrams in the
carb. *Apparently if the crankcase seals are kaput, then
it may not get enough pressure/vacuum. *I've inspected
the hose, it looks OK. * With the sparkplug out and pulling
the starter, I can feel some suction, some puffing on the
end of that impulse hose with my finger. * But not a lot.
Anyone know how much you should be able to feel?
Or have any other ideas?

Did you clean out the fuel tank?
Points in magneto need replacing/cleaning? (Weak spark)
Did you replace spark plug?
Have you tried fresh fuel?
Did you check the fuel tank cap vent is clear?

On Nov 17, 7:16*pm, "SRN" wrote:
wrote in message

...

I have a 40 year old Stihl chainsaw that is giving me fits.
It had not been used in probably 6 months or more.
Even back then, it was having problems, with not wanting
to start, stalling when going back to idle, etc.

................................................. ..........
carb. *Apparently if the crankcase seals are kaput, then
it may not get enough pressure/vacuum. *I've inspected
the hose, it looks OK. * With the sparkplug out and pulling
the starter, I can feel some suction, some puffing on the
end of that impulse hose with my finger. * But not a lot.
Anyone know how much you should be able to feel?
Or have any other ideas?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yf8alC0x9mY

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I
found another video on youtube that shows the
actual crankshaft seal removal/installation, as well as
testing procedu

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNq07CcWPjs

That video gave me some excellent ideas. I was
already thinking about how to plug up the intake
and exhaust to be able to test it. They used a piece
of rubber inner tube, placed it between the carb
and intake and tightened it. Used a metal plate on
the exhaust side with similar inner tube to block it.
Then they used vacuum tester on the impulse line. I
even have the vacuum tester, if I can find it.....

From what Clare said here, what I've read other places,
and what the video you had about crankshaft bearing/seal
symptoms, it sure sounds to me like it's very likely
the crankshaft seals are shot. Damn, they only lasted
40 years..... I'm sure the bearings are OK, the saw has
only had light, irregualr use.

But, the next problems are to see if new seals are still
available for a 40 year old Stihl saw. And then, according
to the manual, to get the seal out on one side, you need
a fancy puller tool that has fingers that grab the seal
from the inside. The second video shows it being used.
Not sure if I can get it out without the tool, but maybe
it's possible.....

On 11/17/2012 3:25 PM, wrote:
I have a 40 year old Stihl chainsaw that is giving me fits.
It had not been used in probably 6 months or more.
Even back then, it was having problems, with not wanting
to start, stalling when going back to idle, etc.

I got it running this time and after fooling around with it
was able to actually use it to cut up one large tree. It
usually will eventually start from cold, after a lot of
fiddling between choking, not choking, etc,
but then has trouble transitioning
to full throttle. It won't idle, it stalls if you try to let it
idle.
But at full throttle, it ran OK and cut like a champ. You
just can't let it go back to less than maybe 1/4 power or
it stalls out. I also observed gas dripping from the carb
at times. And at times after it's run, it's very difficult to
start again.

I took the Stilotson carb apart and it all looked good, except for
a small fuel screen in the carb. It was packed with gunk. Otherwise
it looked good, no rust, no other signs of fouling. I cleaned it
out with carb cleaner, compressed air, put it back together.
Same problem.

I ordered a carb kit and took it apart again today. Cleaned it
again with compressed air, including this time I could take out
the welch plug. All the passages look like brand new. The
kit included two new diaphrams that form the fuel pump,
new needle valve, gaskets. etc. The old diaphrams
were still intact, but they\had more stretch/play then
the new ones. Was hoping this was the problem. Put it
all back together again, following the service manual, so I'm
pretty sure it's right. Still same problems.

Tried squirting a bit of fuel into the carb directly and it fires
right up. Did that several times. Without the squirt, it's much
harder to start.

I've taken it apart to inspect the fuel line to the tank and filter
which is inside the tank. I can suck or blow on the line,
pinching off the filter end and no evidence of any air leaks.
Fuel filter is clean.

I put a new plug in and also have tried pull starting it with
the plug out, but connected. Good spark. Also when taking
the plug out after having tried to start it for a long time, the
plug is dry. Acts like it's not getting fuel....

So, from a bit of searching, it looks like one of the other
potential problems is the impulse line. This carb uses a
line from the crankcase to supply alternating pressure
and vacuum that works the fuel pump diaphrams in the
carb. Apparently if the crankcase seals are kaput, then
it may not get enough pressure/vacuum. I've inspected
the hose, it looks OK. With the sparkplug out and pulling
the starter, I can feel some suction, some puffing on the
end of that impulse hose with my finger. But not a lot.
Anyone know how much you should be able to feel?
Or have any other ideas?


put a new carb on it. They are not worth the time to rebuild. as a
matter of fact the last one i did, the kit was more $$ than the whole carb.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Nov 18, 11:13*am, wrote:
On Sun, 18 Nov 2012 05:24:23 -0800 (PST), "





wrote:
On Nov 17, 7:16*pm, "SRN" wrote:
wrote in message

....

I have a 40 year old Stihl chainsaw that is giving me fits.
It had not been used in probably 6 months or more.
Even back then, it was having problems, with not wanting
to start, stalling when going back to idle, etc.

................................................. ..........
carb. *Apparently if the crankcase seals are kaput, then
it may not get enough pressure/vacuum. *I've inspected
the hose, it looks OK. * With the sparkplug out and pulling
the starter, I can feel some suction, some puffing on the
end of that impulse hose with my finger. * But not a lot.
Anyone know how much you should be able to feel?
Or have any other ideas?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yf8alC0x9mY

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. *I
found another video on youtube that shows the
actual crankshaft seal removal/installation, as well as
testing procedu

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNq07CcWPjs

That video gave me some excellent ideas. *I was
already thinking about how to plug up the intake
and exhaust to be able to test it. * They used a piece
of rubber inner tube, placed it between the carb
and intake and tightened it. * Used a metal plate on
the exhaust side with similar inner tube to block it.
Then they used vacuum tester on the impulse line. *I
even have the vacuum tester, if I can find it.....

From what Clare said here, what I've read other places,
and what the video you had about crankshaft bearing/seal
symptoms, it sure sounds to me like it's very likely
the crankshaft seals are shot. * Damn, they only lasted
40 years..... *I'm sure the bearings are OK, the saw has
only had light, irregualr use.

But, the next problems are to see if new seals are still
available for a 40 year old Stihl saw. * And then, according
to the manual, to get the seal out on one side, you need
a fancy puller tool that has fingers that grab the seal
from the inside. * The second video shows it being used.
Not sure if I can get it out without the tool, but maybe
it's possible.....

Two things to consider.
There is usually a filter inside the tank on the end of the intake
hose.
The muffler can get plugged up with carbon.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I've checked the filter and entire length of fuel hose.
Filter is perfectly clean, no signs of leakage in hose
and it looks in good shape. I doubt it's a muffler
problem, because when it decides to run, it will run
at full power, take down a tree, pretty much OK,
yet won't idle. Would think if there was blockage,
full power would be a problem, no?

I really think it has all the symptoms of leaking
crankshaft seals, which as I understand it a

won't idle
difficult to start
balks at going from idle to full throttle
adjusting the needle valves doesn't help

just about everything else has been ruled out.
I disassembled, cleaned, rebuilt carb.
has good spark

Even though it's 40 years old, I found the seals on
Ebay. Only problem is, don't know if I can get the
old one out on one side without the special puller.
Debating whether to try to do some pressure testing
to verify it's the seals or just order/replace them.

On Nov 18, 10:54*am, Steve Barker wrote:
On 11/17/2012 3:25 PM, wrote:





I have a 40 year old Stihl chainsaw that is giving me fits.
It had not been used in probably 6 months or more.
Even back then, it was having problems, with not wanting
to start, stalling when going back to idle, etc.

I got it running this time and after fooling around with it
was able to actually use it to cut up one large tree. *It
usually will eventually start from cold, after a lot of
fiddling between choking, not choking, etc,
but then has trouble transitioning
to full throttle. * It won't idle, it stalls if you try to let it
idle.
But at full throttle, it ran OK and cut like a champ. *You
just can't let it go back to less than maybe 1/4 power or
it stalls out. *I also observed gas dripping from the carb
at times. *And at times after it's run, it's very difficult to
start again.

I took the Stilotson carb apart and it all looked good, except for
a small fuel screen in the carb. *It was packed with gunk. *Otherwise
it looked good, no rust, no other signs of fouling. *I cleaned it
out with carb cleaner, compressed air, put it back together.
Same problem.

I ordered a carb kit and took it apart again today. * Cleaned it
again with compressed air, including this time I could take out
the welch plug. *All the passages look like brand new. *The
kit included two new diaphrams that form the fuel pump,
new needle valve, gaskets. etc. * The old diaphrams
were still intact, but they\had more stretch/play then
the new ones. * Was hoping this was the problem. *Put it
all back together again, following the service manual, so I'm
pretty sure it's right. *Still same problems.

Tried squirting a bit of fuel into the carb directly and it fires
right up. *Did that several times. *Without the squirt, it's much
harder to start.

I've taken it apart to inspect the fuel line to the tank and filter
which is inside the tank. * I can suck or blow on the line,
pinching off the filter end and no evidence of any air leaks.
Fuel filter is clean.

I put a new plug in and also have tried pull starting it with
the plug out, but connected. *Good spark. *Also when taking
the plug out after having tried to start it for a long time, the
plug is dry. *Acts like it's not getting fuel....

So, from a bit of searching, it looks like one of the other
potential problems is the impulse line. *This carb uses a
line from the crankcase to supply alternating pressure
and vacuum that works the fuel pump diaphrams in the
carb. *Apparently if the crankcase seals are kaput, then
it may not get enough pressure/vacuum. *I've inspected
the hose, it looks OK. * With the sparkplug out and pulling
the starter, I can feel some suction, some puffing on the
end of that impulse hose with my finger. * But not a lot.
Anyone know how much you should be able to feel?
Or have any other ideas?

put a new carb on it. *They are not worth the time to rebuild. *as a
matter of fact the last one i did, the kit was more $$ than the whole carb.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The rebuild kit was $10. A new carb is $100 and there is
no sign that anything is wrong with this one. I've had good
results with rebuild kits on other carbs, like my Sears
snowblower, which I've rebuilt twice now.