Danny D. wrote:

I forgot to mention, the color code red 'often' means right hand
stationary cone as described in this excellent video of how to size a
torsion spring:

The way I was taught, and I'll never forget was my boss told me "black
is right, NOT!"

A little racist, but hell - I remembered.

On Mon, 05 Nov 2012 20:05:46 -0600, G. Morgan wrote:

A little racist, but hell - I remembered.

Similar to the resistor color code ... i.e.,
... b b r our y g but v g willingly willingly ...

Danny D. wrote:

I might actually do that! If they let me.

It's your house. They can't not let you watch. Offer cold drinks or
coffee, and don't get in their way. Offer light conversation like
"how's business", then you'll likely get a much friendlier banter when
you ask technical questions.

Danny D. wrote:

I might actually do that! If they let me.


BTW, do you live in the Houston area by chance?

I can do it for ya.

Danny D. wrote:

On Mon, 05 Nov 2012 20:05:46 -0600, G. Morgan wrote:

A little racist, but hell - I remembered.

Similar to the resistor color code ... i.e.,
... b b r our y g but v g willingly willingly ...

I remember that one too :-)

Danny D. wrote:

On Mon, 05 Nov 2012 20:05:46 -0600, G. Morgan wrote:

A little racist, but hell - I remembered.

Similar to the resistor color code ... i.e.,
... b b r our y g but v g willingly willingly ...

In trigonometry class my prof. told me:

Some Old Hippie - Caught Another Hippie - Tripping On Acid

SOH, CAH, TOA - remembered!

"Mark" wrote in message
...
another option for the op

buy your own parts so you can get the better quality

hire a guy to install it and you watch him so you learn the real
tricks

DIY the next time


there is NOTHING as good as watching someone who knows what they are
doing...


Here's a great Youtube video on changing out torsion springs:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxUoJrLhaSI

I think the hardest measurement is, surprisingly, the wire gauge.

I just measured the broken spring wire gauge with a rule:
10 coils = 2 5/16", so that's 2.3125/10 = 0.231"
20 coils = 4 11/16", so that's 4.6875/20 = 0.234"
30 coils = 7 1/16", so that's 7.0625/30 = 0.235"

Then, I measured with a micrometer in 3 different places:
0.241"(http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11343668.jpg)
0.242"(http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11343670.jpg)
0.237"(http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11343669.jpg)

Geez Louise. I know how to use a mic - but this wire has been stretched
at the end that I can measure.

How do I better nail down the (real) wire gauge anyway?

On Mon, 05 Nov 2012 20:14:41 -0600, G. Morgan wrote:

BTW, do you live in the Houston area by chance?

Silicon Valley.

On Mon, 05 Nov 2012 20:28:11 -0600, SRN wrote:
Here's a great Youtube video on changing out torsion springs:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxUoJrLhaSI

Yes. I've seen that. I referenced it prior. What I LOVE about that one is
that it shows the spring breaking before our very eyes!

The thing I don't like about it is that it covers the two-spring doors,
and mine is a single spring.

I hate extrapolating when safety is a factor - but it IS a wonderful
video!

Thanks!

On Tue, 06 Nov 2012 02:50:55 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

I just measured the broken spring wire gauge with a rule:
10 coils = 2 5/16", so that's 2.3125/10 = 0.231"
20 coils = 4 11/16", so that's 4.6875/20 = 0.234"
30 coils = 7 1/16", so that's 7.0625/30 = 0.235"

Then, I measured with a micrometer in 3 different places:
0.241"(http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11343668.jpg)
0.242"(http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11343670.jpg)
0.237"(http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11343669.jpg)

Making things worse, this chart doesn't show ANY of those numbers!
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/80621748...cement-springs

That chart shows:
0.2343" when 10 coils = 2 5/16" & when 20 coils = 4 5/8"
0.2437" when 10 coils = 2 7/16" & when 20 coils = 4 7/8"
0.2500" when 10 coils = 2 1/2" & when 20 coils = 5"

I hate when I don't know the exact size.
I need a better (more consistent) measurement method.

I'm guessing it's the 0.2343" gauge simply because that's the closest
using the 10+20 coil method; but it's not even close to any one
of my micrometer measurements. Sigh.

Any ideas?

Jeezus. It's amazing what you need to learn when you DIY!

Here's how I had to determine my "track radius" just now!
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11344006.jpg

Turns out, my 'track radius' is 15 inches.

It's needed for the spring calculator he
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/springs/st...on-springs.php

To the next person, you will need these SEVEN datapoints:
1. Right hand wound
2. 2" ID
3. 0.243" wire gauge
4. 26.5" spring length (unsprung)
5. 7' door height
6. 4" drum diameter
7. 15" track radius

I entered those seven numbers, and the spring calculator found:
NOTHING!

So I changed the 26.5" to 27", and it only found a spring for a 12" track.

(I wonder: Do most of you have 12 inch tracks?)

Luckily, the chart shows "equivalent" springs for a 15" track but I was
surprised the original spring doesn't fit a 15" track.

Q: What size track do you have?

Danny D. wrote:

On Mon, 05 Nov 2012 20:14:41 -0600, G. Morgan wrote:

BTW, do you live in the Houston area by chance?

Silicon Valley.

Ah, too far of a commute for me. Unless you want to pay the trip
charge!

Danny D. wrote:

Making things worse, this chart doesn't show ANY of those numbers!

See here yet?

http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instru...on-springs.php

On Tue, 06 Nov 2012 06:29:28 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

Q: What size track do you have?

OK. I was measuring the track radius incorrectly.

I'm supposed to measure from the BOTTOM of the track
to the bubble level as shown in this pictu
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instru...conversion.php

What I CLEARLY get is neither 12" nor 15", but I get 13".
There is no doubt that is the measurement done the
way explained in that document.

So that's weird!

I'm not sure how common a 13" track radius is, but, it's
going to affect what spring I get if I want to increase
the duty cycle.

Danny D. wrote:

Jeezus. It's amazing what you need to learn when you DIY!

It's really easy. Just call Larry like I posted in an earlier post, he
will help you out just by the model # of the door.

FYI: For a 16x7 door you need 32 quarter turns to wind it. The door
should be able to be lifted with two fingers. If it's to "hot" (door
goes up to fast) take a turn or two off. If it's heavy, add a turn or
two.

Danny D. wrote:

On Mon, 05 Nov 2012 20:28:11 -0600, SRN wrote:
Here's a great Youtube video on changing out torsion springs:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxUoJrLhaSI

Yes. I've seen that. I referenced it prior. What I LOVE about that one is
that it shows the spring breaking before our very eyes!

The thing I don't like about it is that it covers the two-spring doors,
and mine is a single spring.

Same-same. The ones with one spring can be converted into two, and the
other way around.

Measure the length of 10 coils of the spring.
Example: 10 coils measures 2 1/4" = .225 wire size. (See chart below for
examples)

http://www.aaaremotes.com/howtomeasuresprings.html

Danny D. wrote:

I'm not sure how common a 13" track radius is, but, it's
going to affect what spring I get if I want to increase
the duty cycle.

Don't worry about the duty cycle, at $35 bucks a spring you can replace
it every 15 years (if the door lasts that long).

On Tue, 06 Nov 2012 00:44:10 -0600, G. Morgan wrote:

See here yet?
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instru...on-springs.php

Interestingly, I've been on that site a lot as their DIYs
are probably the best out there - and I'm likely to buy from
them - as they're the most helpful - but - I had not been
to that particular page.

They do start out contradicting themselves somewhat though, in that
they say in that page you only need these 5 things:
(1) length,
(2) wire size,
(3) inside diameter,
(4) spring wind, and
(5) type of ends

For a proper DIY, you REALLY need to know (at least) a dozen things:
(1) length (mine appears to be 26.5")
(2) wire size (mine appears to be 0.2343")
(3) inside diameter (mine is 2" ID)
(4) spring wind (mine is wound right)
(5) type of ends (mine are standard)
(6) door height (mine is 7' tall)
(7) drum diameter (mine is 4.00 inches wide)
(8) track radius (mine appears to be 13" which is a strange number)
(9) bearing to drum distance (I can handle a 60"-18"=42" spring length)
(10) door weight (I don't know my door weight yet)
(11) twists (mine apparently was twisted 9 times)
(12) cycles (I'm aiming for 20,000 or 30,000 cycles)

I'm going to call the DDM tech support folks tomorrow to figure out
what to do about my strange track radius of 13 inches.
Tech Support: 877-436-9446 ·
Orders: 800-383-9548 / 630-293-1312

On Tue, 06 Nov 2012 06:29:28 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

I entered those seven numbers, and the spring calculator found:
NOTHING!

http://ddmgaragedoors.com/springs/st...on-springs.php

I must have done something wrong the first time, because a
subsequent calculation found the existing spring listed:

$36.58 SPB-234-26-50L
ID=0.234" & LENGTH=26.5"
12" radius = 123.2LIFT & 15,000cycles
15" radius = 128.2LIFT & 13,000cycles

If I want to increase the duty cycle, I can switch to
multiple smaller shorter springs, e.g.:
$21.08 SPB-187-17-75R & SPB-187-17-75L
ID=0.187" & LENGTH=17.75"
12" radius = 62.3#LIFT & 20,000CYCLES
15" radius = 64.7#LIFT & 17,000CYCLES

Or, I can switch to a single longer spring:
$45.09 SPB-243-32-00R
ID=0.243" & LENGTH=32"
12" radius = 122.9#LIFT & 25,000CYCLES
15" radius = 127.8#LIFT & 22,000CYCLES

Or, I can switch to a single thicker & longer spring:
$51.56 SPB-250-36-00R
ID=0.250" & LENGTH=36"
12" radius = 123.3#LIFT & 36,000CYCLES
15" radius = 128.2#LIFT & 31,000CYCLES

Danny D. wrote:

I'm going to call the DDM tech support folks tomorrow to figure out
what to do about my strange track radius of 13 inches.

Best of luck to you, BE SAFE !!!

On Tue, 6 Nov 2012 07:48:14 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:



Or, I can switch to a single thicker & longer spring:
$51.56 SPB-250-36-00R
ID=0.250" & LENGTH=36"
12" radius = 123.3#LIFT & 36,000CYCLES
15" radius = 128.2#LIFT & 31,000CYCLES

36,000 cycles.
If open/close is 2 cycles, and you average open/close twice a day, I
come up with 24.65753424 years.
Lot's to consider there.

On Tue, 06 Nov 2012 11:11:49 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:

36,000 cycles.
If open/close is 2 cycles, and you average open/close twice a day, I
come up with 24.65753424 years

Actually, 1 open and 1 close is 1 cycle ...

So, it looks like 36,000 is the way to go for trouble-free repairs.

It only costs about $15 more for the 36,000 cycles - but I'm still looking
in case there are other drawbacks other than cost (sometimes there are).

On Tue, 06 Nov 2012 01:24:15 -0600, G. Morgan wrote:

at $35 bucks a spring you can replace it every 15 years
(if the door lasts that long).

I'm going to order the spring today.
Thanks for all the advice.
I'll let you know (with pictures) how it works out.

On Thu, 08 Nov 2012 15:14:07 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

I'll let you know (with pictures) how it works out.

I was hoping the spring would have arrived before
the weekend - but alas ... there won't be a garage
door spring DIY until the spring arrives.

I ordered a SPB-250-36-00R to replace my old spring.
The numbering system means:
SP=spring
B = 2 inch ID
250 = 1/4" wire gauge
36 = 36 inches long
00 = fractions over 36 (i.e., exactly 36 inches)
R = right wound

The spring itself was $51.50 and the shipping was
a whopping $22.50 plus I added the two 1/2" diameter
18" long metal bars (which cost $8 additional).

They admonished NOT using socket wrenches (3/8 open
end wrenches and vise grips were what else is needed).

Here are the particulars:
1. Old & new spring ID = 2.0 inches
2. Old & new wire gauge = 0.2343" & 0.250"
3. Old & new length = 26.5" & 36"
4. Old & new wind = right hand wind
5. Door height = 7'
6. Track radius = 13" (only affects the duty cycle)
7. Door weight = unknown
8. Ends = standard cones
9. Drum = 4.0 inches diameter
10. Bearing-to-drum distance = 60"-18"=42 inches
11. Spring stretch ~= 36" + 9 turns = 38.25 inches
12. Old & new duty cycle = ? cycles & 34000 cycles
13. Number of cycles per day ~= 2
14. Door width = 8 feet
15. Total cost (so far) ~= $75

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 00:41:31 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

The spring itself was $51.50 and the shipping was a whopping $22.50 plus
I added the two 1/2" diameter 18" long metal bars (which cost $8
additional).

I just found out that the winding bars are actually an outside diameter
on one side of 7/16" with the other end being 1/2". Go figure.

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 00:41:31 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

Here are the particulars:
1. Old & new spring ID = 2.0 inches 2. Old & new wire gauge = 0.2343" &
0.250"
3. Old & new length = 26.5" & 36"
4. Old & new wind = right hand wind 5. Door height = 7'
6. Track radius = 13" (only affects the duty cycle)
7. Door weight = unknown 8. Ends = standard cones 9. Drum = 4.0 inches
diameter 10. Bearing-to-drum distance = 60"-18"=42 inches 11. Spring
stretch ~= 36" + 9 turns = 38.25 inches 12. Old & new duty cycle = ?
cycles & 34000 cycles 13. Number of cycles per day ~= 2 14. Door width =
8 feet 15. Total cost (so far) ~= $75

I'm getting estimates in the $165 to $180 range for the installation
(with bar).

The door is apparently 135 pounds.

Danny D. wrote:

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 00:41:31 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

Here are the particulars:
1. Old & new spring ID = 2.0 inches 2. Old & new wire gauge = 0.2343" &
0.250"
3. Old & new length = 26.5" & 36"
4. Old & new wind = right hand wind 5. Door height = 7'
6. Track radius = 13" (only affects the duty cycle)
7. Door weight = unknown 8. Ends = standard cones 9. Drum = 4.0 inches
diameter 10. Bearing-to-drum distance = 60"-18"=42 inches 11. Spring
stretch ~= 36" + 9 turns = 38.25 inches 12. Old & new duty cycle = ?
cycles & 34000 cycles 13. Number of cycles per day ~= 2 14. Door width =
8 feet 15. Total cost (so far) ~= $75

I'm getting estimates in the $165 to $180 range for the installation
(with bar).

The door is apparently 135 pounds.

Most installers use a cordless impact driver, with 7/16" lags.

This is only a 30 minute job for a pro, you're making it too
complicated!

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 00:07:04 -0600, G. Morgan wrote:

Most installers use a cordless impact driver, with 7/16" lags.

I don't understand what a 'lag' is?

Are you talking about lag bolts?

If so, why would lag bolts be involved in switching out a broken torsion
spring?

On Sun, 04 Nov 2012 01:14:17 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

I'll research what I can and report back but if you've actually done it
(I realize most people have NOT) ... it would be useful to get your
advice.

HERE IS A KNOWLEDGE BASE UPDATE (as promised) for ALT.HOME.REPAIR:

Perhaps the best argument 'for' a DIY repair is that we, the
homeowner, should be able to select & install the best spring for
our needs at the best price available (about $75 to $100, all told).

For example, my old 15000 cycle torsion spring is $41 at prodoorparts:
Garage Door Tension Spring 2" x .234 x 26.5" Right Wind - $40.99

But a 35000 cycle replacement torsion spring is only 20% more at $49:
Garage Door Tension Spring 2" x .250 x 36" Right Wind - $48.99

I would think we typical homeowners would opt for the latter, while a
(presumably) typical installer would opt for the former (for reasons
other than getting us the best spring & best value for our money).

One GREAT argument against a DIY repair is that the job is dangerous.
It 'is' dangerous. That's why most homeowners opt to pay about $150
to $200 (out here in the Silicon Valley anyway) to have it done.

Another argument against a DIY repair is the knowledge needed.
Luckily, replacing a garage door torsion spring is relatively
simple (it has its moment of drama though).

Nowadays, excellent DIYs abound, but the mainstream is what
I'll reference here.

The canonical DIY (a must-read novella) is by Richard J. Kinch:
http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm

However (IMHO) the 'best' (most informative) site overall is DDM:
http://ddmgaragedoors.com

There are other excellent DIY-aware sites which are already listed
in this thread so I won't repeat them in this research summary.

A second key requirement for a DIY repair is the proper tools.
The good news is that there is only one tool needed that a
typical homeowner won't already have in his toolbox.

That special tool is a set of ~18" long 1/2" diameter winding bars.

I've found that two winding bars should be around $8 for a set;
but many companies charge more than twice that; so here's a
link to the company with the most reasonable winding bar prices:
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/parts/part/WB-18.html

Apparently these winding bars are often machined with a hexagonal
"grip" (reputedly so they don't easily fall out of your hand and/or
roll away on the floor) - but the ends are always circular.
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/parts/tools_support.html

For commercial you'd use larger and longer winding bars.
Residential = 18" long, 1/2" & 7/16"
Light commercial = 24" long, 1/2" & 5/8"
Heavy commercial = 36" long, 1/2" & 5/8"

Apparently 17" bars are sometimes substituted for 18"
bars merely to better accommodate shipping box sizes.

Commercial garage door torsion springs often don't come
with the cones but residential torsion springs almost
always are sold with the cones already attached.

All you really need is the following information:
1. Inside diameter (always embossed on the end cones, e.g., 2")
2. Untensioned length (you measure only the spring, not the cone)
3. Wire gauge (i.e., the diameter of the wire, e.g., 0.2343")
4. Wind direction (use the tried-and-true right-hand rule)
5. Cone type (most are 'standard' cones but oddballs exist)

There are other specifications which are important but which
are not necessary if you're simply replacing a broken spring.

I've found, by calling companies that some "salespeople" will
talk 'colors' painted on the springs and cones rather than
sizes and duty cycles when asking you for details. My advice
is to use paint color only as a doublecheck of your math
(e.g., right-wind cones are usually painted red and gold spray
on springs is sometimes an indication of the 0.250"wire gauge).

In my research, I found OLD threads where most of the thread
was from people saying it couldn't easily and safely be done as
a DIY repair. Those older threads imply it must have been harder
to come by information, springs, & calculation tools in the past.

But now it's easy to buy a single spring on the web.
It's easy to calculate alternative replacement sizes.
It's easy to buy the right tools.
And, it's easy to find excellent step-by-step DIYs on the web.

My conclusion: Times have changed!

You no longer have to impersonate a licensed technician in order
to have a single garage door torsion spring shipped to your home.

For example, here is a typical price list for a wide selection
of two inch residential garage door torsion springs to fit my door.
(remember to add about 10% CA sales tax & about $20 for shipping).
http://www.prodoorparts.com/garage-door-springs/2/

In summary, I'm looking forward to my spring arriving so that I
can attempt my very first garage door torsion spring DIY based on
the ample tutorials, suppliers, & videos extant on the web today.

That's why most homeowners opt to pay about $150 to
$200 (out here in the Silicon Valley anyway) to have it done.

Or more ...

By way of partial proof, here's a 'special' $200 deal for my area:
http://www.thegaragedoorstoresanjose...placement.html
"Your garage door is the largest moving object in your house and can
be dangerous? Make sure it isn't. When looking for expert garage
door repair service in San Jose, Santa Clara, Los Gatos, Campbell,
Saratoga, Milpitas, and Sunnyvale; call us today for our $199 spring
special! 408-281-7111"

I arbitrarily called about a dozen local (408 area code) garage door
repair outfits yesterday to obtain that $150 to $200 price range.

Incidentally, I MUST say, I had the most interested phone call yesterday
to "Tiffany" at 408-335-0145 when I was shopping for local repair costs
for my research summary to you guys at alt home repair.

That outfit literally called me back twice to get my business!

First, they called back to lower the price of the service call from
$50 (just for the estimate) to $30 and to offer to refund that lowered
price service call if I got their $150 to $250 service - and then -
when I still declined, Tiffany called back today saying the new manager
just authorized her to drop the service call fee altogether.

At that point, I 'could' have taken then up on their offer (just to
get a more specific estimate for you guys) ... but ... I didn't really
want to jerk them around so I politely declined (but thanked them
nonetheless).

I mention this because many people reading this will want to have
someone do the work for them - so it's good to know you still 'can'
get a free estimate in the Silicon Valley (but only if you play their
game).

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 15:54:12 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

That's why most homeowners opt to pay about $150 to
$200 (out here in the Silicon Valley anyway) to have it done.

Or more ...

By way of partial proof, here's a 'special' $200 deal for my area:
http://www.thegaragedoorstoresanjose...placement.html
"Your garage door is the largest moving object in your house and can
be dangerous? Make sure it isn't. When looking for expert garage
door repair service in San Jose, Santa Clara, Los Gatos, Campbell,
Saratoga, Milpitas, and Sunnyvale; call us today for our $199 spring
special! 408-281-7111"

I arbitrarily called about a dozen local (408 area code) garage door
repair outfits yesterday to obtain that $150 to $200 price range.

Incidentally, I MUST say, I had the most interested phone call yesterday
to "Tiffany" at 408-335-0145 when I was shopping for local repair costs
for my research summary to you guys at alt home repair.

That outfit literally called me back twice to get my business!

First, they called back to lower the price of the service call from
$50 (just for the estimate) to $30 and to offer to refund that lowered
price service call if I got their $150 to $250 service - and then -
when I still declined, Tiffany called back today saying the new manager
just authorized her to drop the service call fee altogether.

At that point, I 'could' have taken then up on their offer (just to
get a more specific estimate for you guys) ... but ... I didn't really
want to jerk them around so I politely declined (but thanked them
nonetheless).

I mention this because many people reading this will want to have
someone do the work for them - so it's good to know you still 'can'
get a free estimate in the Silicon Valley (but only if you play their
game).


Thanks for all the garage door spring info. Nice job.
Around here - north of Chicago suburbs - it seems most home repair
contractors do free estimates.
In fact, they PAY to give estimates if they use a referral service
like Service Magic.
They have mixed views about Service Magic, and so do I.
It does save the home owner time in finding contractors.
But in talking to some of the contractors, it works like this. If
they get the job, the SM referral fee is nothing to them, as it gets
paid out of job profit. If they don't, some resent the fee, others
just see it as a business cost. There's other issues I don't mention
now.
Anyway, although it probably pays to check around and get multiple
estimates, damn if I don't nearly always end up hiring the first guy
out. Maybe I've just been lucky, but it's worked out well.
More likely the first guy out is a hustler, does the most work, runs
his business the best, and can offer a good cost for good work.
Just guessing, but it seems to generally work that way.
Five out of six of the last jobs I contracted went to the first
bidder.
Keeping to garage doors, I was expecting to pay about $2k for a new
steel door - just going by what a workmate paid for a similar one
about 5 years ago - but the first guy I called was over here in an
hour, and bid $900. He's had a local business with a good rep for a
long time. Looked no further.
He was slow getting out to do the job, because he was busy.
But I told him up front there was no hurry, and do it by his schedule.
So $200 for a new spring sounds high to me, but as you say, you live
where you live.

Danny D. wrote:

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 00:07:04 -0600, G. Morgan wrote:

Most installers use a cordless impact driver, with 7/16" lags.

I don't understand what a 'lag' is?

Are you talking about lag bolts?

If so, why would lag bolts be involved in switching out a broken torsion
spring?

Because you are going to have to take off the whole torsion bar and
bring it down to the ground level. They are 3" lags and sometimes don't
go back nicely into the same holes.

Vic Smith wrote:

Keeping to garage doors, I was expecting to pay about $2k for a new
steel door - just going by what a workmate paid for a similar one
about 5 years ago - but the first guy I called was over here in an
hour, and bid $900. He's had a local business with a good rep for a
long time. Looked no further.


Must have been a nice insulated door. In Houston I'll (well, used to
before I got out of the business) install a 16 x 7 non-insulated door
complete with take-down and haul-off for about $500.

Our cost on the door is $300. It takes about 1.5 hours to do, and the
dump charges $30 to drop off the "dead door".

I'm not up to date on current prices, but I'm sure they have not changed
much with the ads I see.

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 12:24:59 -0600, G. Morgan
wrote:

Vic Smith wrote:

Keeping to garage doors, I was expecting to pay about $2k for a new
steel door - just going by what a workmate paid for a similar one
about 5 years ago - but the first guy I called was over here in an
hour, and bid $900. He's had a local business with a good rep for a
long time. Looked no further.


Must have been a nice insulated door. In Houston I'll (well, used to
before I got out of the business) install a 16 x 7 non-insulated door
complete with take-down and haul-off for about $500.


That's my size - 4 panel - but his garage is attached so he probably
got insulated. Pretty sure he got windows too. Might have an 18'.
Mine is plain-jane but much better looking than the old wood one.
I think I priced a similar door at about $400 at the big box when I
was thinking about doing it myself. Then add the opener.


Our cost on the door is $300. It takes about 1.5 hours to do, and the
dump charges $30 to drop off the "dead door".


About the time the 2-man crew took. I was glad to see that old door
hauled away on top of their van. Right there is what tipped the scale
for me early about doing it myself. Getting old.

I'm not up to date on current prices, but I'm sure they have not changed
much with the ads I see.


I'll never know, but no complaints from me.
Heh, just had a visitor. His dad paid $700 for a door at the big box
with 1/2" foam. Put it up himself.
4 times.

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 12:24:59 -0600, G. Morgan wrote:

Our cost on the door is $300. It takes about 1.5 hours to do, and the
dump charges $30 to drop off the "dead door".

Wow. You live on a different planet from California prices!

BTW, I just now weighed the 7' tall by 8' wide steel garage door,
and I was shocked it's 185 pounds (and not 135# which one installer
told me based on my description of the door).

http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11375189.jpg

Lesson: Don't trust what the installer says on the phone!

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 01:56:00 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

The door is apparently 135 pounds.

That was a wrong number. It is off by 50 pounds!

I had described the door to an installer over the phone
who said it was 135 pounds based on what I told him.

As a doublecheck, given the dimensions of the original spring:
2"ID, 0.243"thick, 26.5"long, 7'tall, 13"track radius
the lift calculates to only about 125 pounds.
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/springs/st...s.php#database

However, today I physically MEASURED the weight of the door.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11375192.jpg

The door clearly weighs 185 pounds!

Something isn't right by about 60 pounds!

Vic Smith wrote:

Put it up himself.
4 times.

LMAO!

Danny D. wrote:

On Sat, 10 Nov 2012 12:24:59 -0600, G. Morgan wrote:

Our cost on the door is $300. It takes about 1.5 hours to do, and the
dump charges $30 to drop off the "dead door".

Wow. You live on a different planet from California prices!

BTW, I just now weighed the 7' tall by 8' wide steel garage door,
and I was shocked it's 185 pounds (and not 135# which one installer
told me based on my description of the door).

http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/11375189.jpg

Lesson: Don't trust what the installer says on the phone!




135 Lbs. sounded pretty light to me.

Back when I used extension springs I'd have to lift the door all the way
up without assistance of springs. I can easily lift an 8 x 7, but the
16 x 7's were a real bitch! I'd heave it up to my belt line, then
"bench press" it the rest of the way to get some vise-grips on the track
to hold it while I installed the springs. Extension springs are way
more dangerous than torsion springs. I've seen the aftermath of one
that snapped that didn't have a safety cable running through the middle.
It shot through the other side of the garage and two layers of
sheetrock.

Vic Smith wrote:

That's my size - 4 panel

FYI - we call them "sections". A panel is where you would cut out for a
window. ;-)