My son lives in a rental house with a few of his buddies. It's not quite
Animal House, but there are similarities. The landlord is really cheap
and the house is pretty run down.

Due to a roof leak, part of the bathroom ceiling (plaster and wood lath)
collapsed. The leak has been repaired by a roofer. For a break on his
rent, my son offered to fix the bathroom ceiling. He gets a break on his
rent and I get to help him for nothing. Go figure.

My son used plaster washers to secure the remainder of the plaster to
the lath and filled in the parts that were missing with drywall. We are
now at the stage where we will be putting 1/4" drywall over the entire
ceiling.

The problem is that neither of us are that good at taping, especially
the ceiling/wall junction.

Suppose we were able to get a nice tight seam between the new drywall
ceiling and the walls. Would it be such a terrible thing to caulk the
ceiling/wall junction instead of mudding and taping it? We need 2+
sheets of drywall, so we can lay it out so that the tapered edges of the
drywall will be in the field, not against the walls.

Nothing else in the bathroom is anywhere close to nice, so it's not
about making it look perfect, it's about getting it done and painted.

Note that I am only considering caulking the ceiling/wall joints. The 2
seams on the ceiling itself will be taped.

How bad of an idea is this?

I wouldn't care ,It's not my house.
Why should you ?

Jerry

http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/WOODPROJECTS

DerbyDad03 wrote:
My son lives in a rental house with a few of his buddies. It's not quite
Animal House, but there are similarities. The landlord is really cheap
and the house is pretty run down.

D

Suppose we were able to get a nice tight seam between the new drywall
ceiling and the walls. Would it be such a terrible thing to caulk the
ceiling/wall junction instead of mudding and taping it? We need 2+
sheets of drywall, so we can lay it out so that the tapered edges of the
drywall will be in the field, not against the walls.

Nothing else in the bathroom is anywhere close to nice, so it's not
about making it look perfect, it's about getting it done and painted.

Note that I am only considering caulking the ceiling/wall joints. The 2
seams on the ceiling itself will be taped.

How bad of an idea is this?
Hi,
How about using some sort of moulding strip covering the caulking?
Nail or staple gun will mae the job cinch.

On Sep 22, 5:20*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My son lives in a rental house with a few of his buddies. It's not quite
Animal House, but there are similarities. The landlord is really cheap
and the house is pretty run down.

Due to a roof leak, part of the bathroom ceiling (plaster and wood lath)
collapsed. The leak has been repaired by a roofer. For a break on his
rent, my son offered to fix the bathroom ceiling. He gets a break on his
rent and I get to help him for nothing. Go figure.

My son used plaster washers to secure the remainder of the plaster to
the lath and filled in the parts that were missing with drywall. We are
now at the stage where we will be putting 1/4" drywall over the entire
ceiling.

The problem is that neither of us are that good at taping, especially
the ceiling/wall junction.

Suppose we were able to get a nice tight seam between the new drywall
ceiling and the walls. Would it be such a terrible thing to caulk the
ceiling/wall junction instead of mudding and taping it? We need 2+
sheets of drywall, so we can lay it out so that the tapered edges of the
drywall will be in the field, not against the walls.

Nothing else in the bathroom is anywhere close to nice, so it's not
about making it look perfect, it's about getting it done and painted.

Note that I am only considering caulking the ceiling/wall joints. The 2
seams on the ceiling itself will be taped.

How bad of an idea is this?

You can get fibreglass tape that is sticky on one side and sort of
open weave that is really easy to mud. The trick is to put the mud on
very thin, with a very bright light close to the wall, but at the
other end of the wall you are taping, or in your case, close to the
floor. Shine the light upward and imperfections in your mudding will
be much more visible. It is much easier to do if you buy mud that
states it is easily sandable, and don't apply too heavily. Two thin
coats work much better than 1 thick one.

Ask the property owner. Sound wonderful
to me. I don't do dywall tape.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...

Would it be such a terrible thing to caulk the
ceiling/wall junction instead of mudding and taping it?

Note that I am only considering caulking the
ceiling/wall joints. The 2
seams on the ceiling itself will be taped.

How bad of an idea is this?

"hr(bob) " wrote:
On Sep 22, 5:20 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My son lives in a rental house with a few of his buddies. It's not quite
Animal House, but there are similarities. The landlord is really cheap
and the house is pretty run down.

Due to a roof leak, part of the bathroom ceiling (plaster and wood lath)
collapsed. The leak has been repaired by a roofer. For a break on his
rent, my son offered to fix the bathroom ceiling. He gets a break on his
rent and I get to help him for nothing. Go figure.

My son used plaster washers to secure the remainder of the plaster to
the lath and filled in the parts that were missing with drywall. We are
now at the stage where we will be putting 1/4" drywall over the entire
ceiling.

The problem is that neither of us are that good at taping, especially
the ceiling/wall junction.

Suppose we were able to get a nice tight seam between the new drywall
ceiling and the walls. Would it be such a terrible thing to caulk the
ceiling/wall junction instead of mudding and taping it? We need 2+
sheets of drywall, so we can lay it out so that the tapered edges of the
drywall will be in the field, not against the walls.

Nothing else in the bathroom is anywhere close to nice, so it's not
about making it look perfect, it's about getting it done and painted.

Note that I am only considering caulking the ceiling/wall joints. The 2
seams on the ceiling itself will be taped.

How bad of an idea is this?

You can get fibreglass tape that is sticky on one side and sort of
open weave that is really easy to mud. The trick is to put the mud on
very thin, with a very bright light close to the wall, but at the
other end of the wall you are taping, or in your case, close to the
floor. Shine the light upward and imperfections in your muddinge will
be much more visible. It is much easier to do if you buy mud that
states it is easily sandable, and don't apply too heavily. Two thin
coats work much better than 1 thick one.

I've heard all the tricks, I have most of the tools. I've watch the videos
and read the tips.

I've tried it a few times and I guess I just don't have the mudding gene.
Maybe it skipped a generation and my son won't have any trouble. He
finished a hole in the wall after I showed him how to do the main repair
and explained how to mud it, and he did a real nice job.

Maybe I'll just help him put the drywall up and slowly back away. I'll tell
him his mom needs me back home...that's it...I'll blame it on her. ;-)

DerbyDad03 wrote:
We are
now at the stage where we will be putting 1/4" drywall over the entire
ceiling.
Do not use 1/4". You'd have to bond it (construction adhesive)
completely to the existing plaster/drywall to keep if from sagging. Go
with 1/2" ceiling drywall or 5/8".

The problem is that neither of us are that good at taping, especially
the ceiling/wall junction.

Suppose we were able to get a nice tight seam between the new drywall
ceiling and the walls. Would it be such a terrible thing to caulk the
ceiling/wall junction instead of mudding and taping it? We need 2+
sheets of drywall, so we can lay it out so that the tapered edges of the
drywall will be in the field, not against the walls.

You're probably not going to be able to cut and hang the ceiling
accurately enough that a bead of caulk will work. Not to worry, though,
because you don't need to. After you hang, prefill any gaps between the
edge of the drywall and the existing wall. When it's dry, flat tape the
perimeter of the ceiling. In other words, tape all around, but do not
fold the tape over onto the wall. It will be easy to mud the perimeter,
just a couple of tight coats with a 5" knife.

A crack may develop at the wall/ceiling junction over time, but it will
be a hairline crack and be easy to hide with a bit of latex caulk.

You'll want to use paper tape and all purpose compound for embedding the
tape and then a lightweight (Plus 3 or similar) compound for the topping
coats.

My son lives in a rental house with a few of his buddies. It's not quite
Animal House, but there are similarities. The landlord is really cheap and
the house is pretty run down.

Due to a roof leak, part of the bathroom ceiling (plaster and wood lath)
collapsed. The leak has been repaired by a roofer. For a break on his
rent, my son offered to fix the bathroom ceiling. He gets a break on his
rent and I get to help him for nothing. Go figure.

My son used plaster washers to secure the remainder of the plaster to the
lath and filled in the parts that were missing with drywall. We are now at
the stage where we will be putting 1/4" drywall over the entire ceiling.

The problem is that neither of us are that good at taping, especially the
ceiling/wall junction.

Suppose we were able to get a nice tight seam between the new drywall
ceiling and the walls. Would it be such a terrible thing to caulk the
ceiling/wall junction instead of mudding and taping it? We need 2+ sheets
of drywall, so we can lay it out so that the tapered edges of the drywall
will be in the field, not against the walls.

Nothing else in the bathroom is anywhere close to nice, so it's not about
making it look perfect, it's about getting it done and painted.

Note that I am only considering caulking the ceiling/wall joints. The 2
seams on the ceiling itself will be taped.

How bad of an idea is this?


*I think it is a good idea. It usually takes me 4 or 5 coats with sponging
in between to get corners perfect. I do one side first, let it dry, sponge,
then do the other side. I use the mesh tape for this.

In your particular situation I think caulking would be acceptable. Use
paintable caulk after all mud work is done. Someone else suggested a
thicker drywall and I tend to agree with that. The new drywall may end up
supporting the existing ceiling.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
My son lives in a rental house with a few of his buddies. It's not quite
Animal House, but there are similarities. The landlord is really cheap
and the house is pretty run down.

Due to a roof leak, part of the bathroom ceiling (plaster and wood lath)
collapsed. The leak has been repaired by a roofer. For a break on his
rent, my son offered to fix the bathroom ceiling. He gets a break on his
rent and I get to help him for nothing. Go figure.

My son used plaster washers to secure the remainder of the plaster to the
lath and filled in the parts that were missing with drywall. We are now
at the stage where we will be putting 1/4" drywall over the entire ceiling.

The problem is that neither of us are that good at taping, especially the
ceiling/wall junction.

Suppose we were able to get a nice tight seam between the new drywall
ceiling and the walls. Would it be such a terrible thing to caulk the
ceiling/wall junction instead of mudding and taping it? We need 2+ sheets
of drywall, so we can lay it out so that the tapered edges of the drywall
will be in the field, not against the walls.

Nothing else in the bathroom is anywhere close to nice, so it's not about
making it look perfect, it's about getting it done and painted.

Note that I am only considering caulking the ceiling/wall joints. The 2
seams on the ceiling itself will be taped.

How bad of an idea is this?

Never mind...it'll be taped. We hung the drywall today...not tight enough
to caulk.

Old house, nothing was square, next to impossible to get a consistent
ceiling/wall junction.

My son will be learning a new skill.

On 9/23/2012 7:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
My son lives in a rental house with a few of his buddies. It's not quite
Animal House, but there are similarities. The landlord is really cheap
and the house is pretty run down.

Due to a roof leak, part of the bathroom ceiling (plaster and wood lath)
collapsed. The leak has been repaired by a roofer. For a break on his
rent, my son offered to fix the bathroom ceiling. He gets a break on his
rent and I get to help him for nothing. Go figure.

My son used plaster washers to secure the remainder of the plaster to the
lath and filled in the parts that were missing with drywall. We are now
at the stage where we will be putting 1/4" drywall over the entire ceiling.

The problem is that neither of us are that good at taping, especially the
ceiling/wall junction.

Suppose we were able to get a nice tight seam between the new drywall
ceiling and the walls. Would it be such a terrible thing to caulk the
ceiling/wall junction instead of mudding and taping it? We need 2+ sheets
of drywall, so we can lay it out so that the tapered edges of the drywall
will be in the field, not against the walls.

Nothing else in the bathroom is anywhere close to nice, so it's not about
making it look perfect, it's about getting it done and painted.

Note that I am only considering caulking the ceiling/wall joints. The 2
seams on the ceiling itself will be taped.

How bad of an idea is this?

Never mind...it'll be taped. We hung the drywall today...not tight enough
to caulk.

Old house, nothing was square, next to impossible to get a consistent
ceiling/wall junction.

My son will be learning a new skill.

Flat tape the ceiling and allow the tape to get over to the wall. The
caulk would have been fine if you'd gotten within a 1/4" or so.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

If that's a plaster ceiling that was damaged, it'll be about 3/4 inch thick instead of 1/2 inch like normal drywall. Also, the ceiling plaster will get thicker close to the ceiling/wall corners cuz there will be expanded metal corner bead all along those corners embedded in the plaster:



If it wuz me, I would screw your drywall up (being careful to mark the joist and wall stud locations on the drywall.

Now, nail some expanded metal inside corner bead (as shown above) to the joists and studs which you can buy at any place listed under "Drywall & Plastering Equipment & Supplies" in your yellow pages phone book.

Skim coating step #1:
Now, apply a coat of "All Purpose" drywall joint compound with a "V" notch adhesive trowel to the drywall on both the wall and ceiling:



and allow the drywall joint compound to dry.

Skim coating step #2:
Holding the V-notch adhesive trowel upside down, gently scrape the ceiling with the unnotched edge to knock off and blobs of joint compound that are sticking out proud of the notches. Then, still holding the adhesive trowel up side down, fill in the trowel ridges with more joint compound using the un-notched edge of the trowel, and allow the drywall joint compound to dry.

Repeat skim coating steps 1 and 2 until you're skim coat is thick enough that you can fill the area over the expanded metal corner bead with joint compound using the unnotched edge of the trowel.

Sand smooth, prime and apply a paint intended for use in bathrooms.

Hi all,

When they keys are broken, the plaster is detached from the wall. Detached plaster tends to crack or even, if the detachment is over a large area, fall off the wall. It is possible to have small cracks, especially around the tops of doors and windows, with minimal or no plaster detachment. But, if you have long cracks going across or up the wall, then most likely the plaster is detached along the crack. If you have two parallel cracks, then the plaster is probably also detached between the cracks.