I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.

On 9/20/2012 1:00 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


I don't know but that is a good idea I will try next time with my small
orbital sander. I usually use an old surface planer. I seldom use my
orbital sander but thought it would be nice to have one around. Was not
all that expensive.

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 10:00:31 -0700, Jennifer Murphy
wrote:

I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.

Orbital will be easiest to handle and still do the job. Dust
collectors don't do much without a vacuum attached, so I just vacuum
afterwards. You won't raise much dust with an orbital.

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 13:21:49 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 9/20/2012 1:00 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


I don't know but that is a good idea I will try next time with my small
orbital sander. I usually use an old surface planer.

I assume you mean something like this: http://tinyurl.com/97yg45r

and not something like this: http://tinyurl.com/9j4y66o

;-)

On 9/20/12 1:00 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


Except for the dust issue, I like to use a small (1 to 2") drum
sander, with medium to coarse paper, chucked in electric drill to
trim such doors

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 12:32:16 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 10:00:31 -0700, Jennifer Murphy
wrote:

I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.

Orbital will be easiest to handle and still do the job. Dust
collectors don't do much without a vacuum attached, so I just vacuum
afterwards. You won't raise much dust with an orbital.

If it doesn't raise much dust, will it do the job. When I do it with the
surform tool, it's very hard work and there is a ton of dust. Maybe a
small belt sander would be better. I used to have a little sander that
was about 2-3" wide, but I can't seem to find it.

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 10:42:59 -0700, Jennifer Murphy
wrote:


If it doesn't raise much dust, will it do the job. When I do it with the
surform tool, it's very hard work and there is a ton of dust. Maybe a
small belt sander would be better. I used to have a little sander that
was about 2-3" wide, but I can't seem to find it.

By that I meant the dust basically fall downs, not up.
Coarse paper on the orbital will take the door edge down.
I've used only "bigger" belt sanders, maybe 21".
They put a lot of dust in the air, and require a firm grip so they
don't get away.
A little belt sander would work faster, but it still requires 2 hand
control. And it will still throw more dust.
The orbital will work with one hand on it.
Your call.

On 9/20/2012 1:37 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 13:21:49 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 9/20/2012 1:00 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


I don't know but that is a good idea I will try next time with my small
orbital sander. I usually use an old surface planer.

I assume you mean something like this: http://tinyurl.com/97yg45r

and not something like this: http://tinyurl.com/9j4y66o

;-)


Neither. Something inherited from my father - hand powered.

Jennifer Murphy writes:

I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.

Electric planer is good for this.

--
Dan Espen

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 13:39:31 -0400, Retired wrote:

On 9/20/12 1:00 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


Except for the dust issue, I like to use a small (1 to 2") drum
sander, with medium to coarse paper, chucked in electric drill to
trim such doors

That's a great idea. And I already have a drill. Off to the hardware
store to get a drum attachment and some drums. Thanks.

I may still get a little orbital sander to finish the job. I imagine
that the drum sander may tend to leave the edge a little "wavy".

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 14:06:11 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 9/20/2012 1:37 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 13:21:49 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 9/20/2012 1:00 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


I don't know but that is a good idea I will try next time with my small
orbital sander. I usually use an old surface planer.

I assume you mean something like this: http://tinyurl.com/97yg45r

and not something like this: http://tinyurl.com/9j4y66o

;-)


Neither. Something inherited from my father - hand powered.

They look something like this.
http://tinyurl.com/d7spl34
Come in different styles and sizes.
I've butchered a lot of wood with them.
They're the reason electricity was invented.

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 14:16:51 -0400, Dan Espen
wrote:

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.

Electric planer is good for this.

As would a circular saw. Leave the dust outside.

Cut a half-blade width off the top and/or bottom of the door.

Agree with those saying an orbital sander. My go to sander. Belt
sanders a run away from the user, easier, for those not familiar with
them or have used one. Like standing a ladder to sand the door top.

Wood files and wraps would work in a pinch.

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 13:19:13 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 14:06:11 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 9/20/2012 1:37 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 13:21:49 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 9/20/2012 1:00 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


I don't know but that is a good idea I will try next time with my small
orbital sander. I usually use an old surface planer.

I assume you mean something like this: http://tinyurl.com/97yg45r

and not something like this: http://tinyurl.com/9j4y66o

;-)


Neither. Something inherited from my father - hand powered.

They look something like this.
http://tinyurl.com/d7spl34
Come in different styles and sizes.
I've butchered a lot of wood with them.
They're the reason electricity was invented.

:-)

I had power tools on my brain, so a simple hand plane never entered my
mind. (sigh) Yes, I've done some really awful work with one of those.

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 14:16:51 -0400, Dan Espen
wrote:

Jennifer Murphy writes:

I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.

Electric planer is good for this.

How that different from a small belt sander?

On 9/20/2012 2:19 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 14:06:11 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 9/20/2012 1:37 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 13:21:49 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 9/20/2012 1:00 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


I don't know but that is a good idea I will try next time with my small
orbital sander. I usually use an old surface planer.

I assume you mean something like this: http://tinyurl.com/97yg45r

and not something like this: http://tinyurl.com/9j4y66o

;-)


Neither. Something inherited from my father - hand powered.

They look something like this.
http://tinyurl.com/d7spl34
Come in different styles and sizes.
I've butchered a lot of wood with them.
They're the reason electricity was invented.


Picture does not come up but we know what they look like.

My father was a ship fitter during WWII and plane came from this era.
Basically, he was a carpenter that fitted things like bunk beds into a
ship. He said there were no flat surfaces on a ship hull and there was
a lot of fitting, I'd say planing, to do. He had apprenticed in this
trade after the eight grade. Later became a typewriter and business
machine repairman. I've got a few of his old tools from that period too.

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 14:06:11 -0400, Frank
wrote:

I assume you mean something like this: http://tinyurl.com/97yg45r

and not something like this: http://tinyurl.com/9j4y66o

;-)


Neither. Something inherited from my father - hand powered.

Hand planers can be collectibles...used and appreciated.

On Sep 20, 12:00*pm, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.

Have you tried loosening some hinges and tightening others to reset
the door or cant it slightly upward or downward. A couple of pieces
of thin cardboard behind the right hinge can do wonders and doesn't
leave any dustg.

"Jennifer Murphy" wrote in message
...
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.

Normally one would only have to do this once or so and you would be good for
a number of years. Possibly the house is still settling and the foundation
needs looking at to determine if there should be something done to stabilize
it. Or the doors are installed so tight that changes in humidity causes the
door or the jamb to swell from dampness and stick the doors. There should be
about 1/16" to 3/32" gap all around the doors to ensure that they will
continue to work properly and not stick.

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 12:29:36 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

Have you tried loosening some hinges and tightening others to reset
the door or cant it slightly upward or downward. A couple of pieces
of thin cardboard behind the right hinge can do wonders and doesn't
leave any dustg.

Roger that.

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 15:35:35 -0400, "EXT"
wrote:


"Jennifer Murphy" wrote in message
.. .
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.

Normally one would only have to do this once or so and you would be good for
a number of years.

Yep, the last time was at least 5-6 years ago.

Possibly the house is still settling and the foundation
needs looking at to determine if there should be something done to stabilize
it.

Probably, but that's more than I care to worry about. I won't live long
enough for that to be worth it. The kids can worry about that.

Or the doors are installed so tight that changes in humidity causes the
door or the jamb to swell from dampness and stick the doors. There should be
about 1/16" to 3/32" gap all around the doors to ensure that they will
continue to work properly and not stick.

I think the doors were hung properly. The house is just settling. It's
about 70 years old.

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 11:46:56 -0700, Jennifer Murphy
wrote:

How that different from a small belt sander?

A power planer is actually two or more plane blades on a circular
drum, driven by a motor. It does a similar job to a hand plane but
much faster. (You posted a link to one earlier in the thread, though
oddly it's labeled a "hand plane" even though it's obviously a piece
of power equipment. I suppose that's intended to indicate that you
hold it in your hands as opposed to mounting it on a bench.)

It's calibrated to take off a specific thickness on each pass -- I
think 1/16" to 1/64" on mine. That's a big advantage compared with a
sander.

The power plane produces a smooth surface, like a hand plane, rather
than the relative rough surface you get with a sander. To get a
similarly smooth surface with a sander and also take off the amount of
wood you need to remove, you'll need to go through probably three
grades of sandpaper. Of course if the surface is on the top or bottom
of the door, the smoothness of the result may not matter.

It also produces a lot less dust than a sander, producing more chips
and less fine dust. Mine collects most of the dust in its attached
dust bag without needing a vacuum attached. It does still leave some
dust though.

I've adjusted several doors with the same problem yours have, and I
like the results. You do have to make sure to plane in from, or
parallel to, any edge -- planing out is asking for large chips to
break off.

If you use a sander, I think you'll need a belt sander. An orbital one
will take a long time to take off 1/16" and you'll get frustrated.

If it's possible to remove the door -- either by removing hinge pins
or, if the pins aren't removable, by taking out screws -- doing so
will make the job a lot easier. You really can't reach all of any
edge, even the edge opposite the hinges, without taking the door down.
And taking the door outside eliminates most of the worries about dust.

Edward

On 9/20/2012 12:00 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


Everyone is thinking of power tools, have you thought of rubbing a
little wax on the sticky surfaces or shimming the hinges. You can take
the screws out of one hinge and slip a piece of paper or two behind
it to alter the way the door fits. If you must, a very sharp wood chisel
can be used to remove a thin layer of wood from where the hinge
attaches. I have not only had to fit wooden doors but doors made of
metal mounted on metal. If you're concerned about the appearance of the
door and possible damage to it, you may have to take it down to do a
proper job on the door without knocking chips out of the edges. You
could also put a piece of 2X4 against the door frame and whack with a
BFH, Big Freaking Hammer a few times to gain a bit of clearance. ^_^

TDD

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 11:18:36 -0700, Jennifer Murphy
wrote:

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 13:39:31 -0400, Retired wrote:

On 9/20/12 1:00 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


Except for the dust issue, I like to use a small (1 to 2") drum
sander, with medium to coarse paper, chucked in electric drill to
trim such doors

That's a great idea. And I already have a drill. Off to the hardware
store to get a drum attachment and some drums. Thanks.

Well, I should have done a search for drum sander bits before I went
out. I went to the local Ace Hardware and Home Depot. Neither carry drum
sander bits for drills except for Dremels. I really couldn't find
anything online, either. So I got a new surform and some drums for the
Dremel.

The Dremel worked the best, but was impossible to get an even surface.
If you ever want to teach a kid the difference between sanding side
grain and end grain. just have them use a drum sander on the top of a
door. They will get a very big dip just where the tiop rail is joined to
the side rail. No way to avoid it.

But, all doors now close easily, so I'm a happy camper -- for another
5-10 years.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 15:35:35 -0400, "EXT"
wrote:
Normally one would only have to do this once or so and you would be
good for a number of years.

Yep, the last time was at least 5-6 years ago.

Possibly the house is still settling and the foundation
needs looking at to determine if there should be something done to
stabilize it.

Probably, but that's more than I care to worry about. I won't live
long enough for that to be worth it. The kids can worry about that.

Just a thought.... You may want to do a little checking for termite damage
and/or evidence of specific compression of some wooden support structures.
You can sometimes tell where the compression or settling is taking place by
checking which doorway openings are getting out of square. Sometimes
doorway openings that run in one direction get out of square while those
that run perpendicular to that are not out of square. And, sometimes, the
settling is not in the actual foundation but instead is near the center of
the house in the area of a main support beam.

One of the reasons for checking this is, of course, to prevent further
termite damage if that is what is happening now. And another is that it may
be possible to add some supporting posts/jacks in the basement when a beam
is located -- and maybe even jack things back up a little to help straighten
out the doorways and prevent further problems.

In other words, the doorways getting out of square may be indicative of a
problem that you can fix while preventing further deterioration, and not
just "the house is still settling".

But, back to your original question -- I like the electric planer idea since
you have a lot of planing to do.

Hand plane is a poor choice for door ends. Often, the part that drags is end
grain, and a plane does a terrible job. I'd be thinking hand held belt
sander.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-...der-90045.html
Thirty bucks.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Jennifer Murphy" wrote in message
...

I had power tools on my brain, so a simple hand plane never entered my
mind. (sigh) Yes, I've done some really awful work with one of those.

On 9/20/2012 5:11 PM, TomR wrote:
Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 15:35:35 -0400, "EXT"
wrote:
Normally one would only have to do this once or so and you would be
good for a number of years.

Yep, the last time was at least 5-6 years ago.

Possibly the house is still settling and the foundation
needs looking at to determine if there should be something done to
stabilize it.

Probably, but that's more than I care to worry about. I won't live
long enough for that to be worth it. The kids can worry about that.

Just a thought.... You may want to do a little checking for termite damage
and/or evidence of specific compression of some wooden support structures.
You can sometimes tell where the compression or settling is taking place by
checking which doorway openings are getting out of square. Sometimes
doorway openings that run in one direction get out of square while those
that run perpendicular to that are not out of square. And, sometimes, the
settling is not in the actual foundation but instead is near the center of
the house in the area of a main support beam.

One of the reasons for checking this is, of course, to prevent further
termite damage if that is what is happening now. And another is that it may
be possible to add some supporting posts/jacks in the basement when a beam
is located -- and maybe even jack things back up a little to help straighten
out the doorways and prevent further problems.

In other words, the doorways getting out of square may be indicative of a
problem that you can fix while preventing further deterioration, and not
just "the house is still settling".

But, back to your original question -- I like the electric planer idea since
you have a lot of planing to do.



I was just thinking of another thing I did to fix a door. I jacked up
the door frame on one side and shimmed the bottom bringing it back into
square. I've actually used a hydraulic auto body ram to spread a wide
hallway in an office building when I had to install a storefront type
aluminum door and frame with access control. ^_^

TDD

TDD

Jennifer Murphy wrote:

Orbital will be easiest to handle and still do the job. Dust
collectors don't do much without a vacuum attached, so I just vacuum
afterwards. You won't raise much dust with an orbital.

If it doesn't raise much dust, will it do the job. When I do it with
the surform tool, it's very hard work and there is a ton of dust.
Maybe a small belt sander would be better. I used to have a little
sander that was about 2-3" wide, but I can't seem to find it.

With a suitable coarse grit, an orbital sander WILL (eventually) do the job.
Plus, it's a nice tool to have for other projects and well worth the less
than $20 cost
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...der-40070.html

Dust will be generated with any sanding operation, unless your sander
connects to a vacuum source.

You can, however, confine the dust to a small area by covering the project
with a trash bag or blanket.

On 9/20/2012 3:14 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 14:06:11 -0400, Frank
wrote:

I assume you mean something like this: http://tinyurl.com/97yg45r

and not something like this: http://tinyurl.com/9j4y66o

;-)


Neither. Something inherited from my father - hand powered.

Hand planers can be collectibles...used and appreciated.


Never thought of it as an old collectible tool.

http://i49.tinypic.com/2cyocd0.jpg

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 16:07:14 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 9/20/2012 12:00 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


Everyone is thinking of power tools, have you thought of rubbing a
little wax on the sticky surfaces or shimming the hinges. You can take
the screws out of one hinge and slip a piece of paper or two behind
it to alter the way the door fits. If you must, a very sharp wood chisel
can be used to remove a thin layer of wood from where the hinge
attaches. I have not only had to fit wooden doors but doors made of
metal mounted on metal. If you're concerned about the appearance of the
door and possible damage to it, you may have to take it down to do a
proper job on the door without knocking chips out of the edges. You
could also put a piece of 2X4 against the door frame and whack with a
BFH, Big Freaking Hammer a few times to gain a bit of clearance. ^_^

TDD
If you want to use a sander, a belt sander is the way to go -
carefully.

On 9/20/2012 8:20 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 16:07:14 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 9/20/2012 12:00 PM, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will stick.
I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a surface
that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful, there is a
tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the task
a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type of
sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


Everyone is thinking of power tools, have you thought of rubbing a
little wax on the sticky surfaces or shimming the hinges. You can take
the screws out of one hinge and slip a piece of paper or two behind
it to alter the way the door fits. If you must, a very sharp wood chisel
can be used to remove a thin layer of wood from where the hinge
attaches. I have not only had to fit wooden doors but doors made of
metal mounted on metal. If you're concerned about the appearance of the
door and possible damage to it, you may have to take it down to do a
proper job on the door without knocking chips out of the edges. You
could also put a piece of 2X4 against the door frame and whack with a
BFH, Big Freaking Hammer a few times to gain a bit of clearance. ^_^

TDD
If you want to use a sander, a belt sander is the way to go -
carefully.


The last time I used my belt sander, it was to clean up the contacts on
a pair of size 4 Square D three phase starters for the open drive 60 ton
AC compressors at a bowling alley. ^_^

TDD

Sounds a bit agressive, to me.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

The last time I used my belt sander, it was to clean up the contacts on
a pair of size 4 Square D three phase starters for the open drive 60 ton
AC compressors at a bowling alley. ^_^

TDD

On Sep 20, 12:00*pm, Jennifer Murphy wrote:

snip


I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.

Painfully slow.

What the pros do:
Remove the door, take it outside (when possible). Place it on
sawhorses. Apply masking tape to both sides of the edge to be
surfaced. Obtain (buy or rent) a 3+" power planer. Bosch is great,
others may be as good. Usually less than $100 on sale at box stores,
sometimes on line (CPO). Mark the masking tape to the depth you want,
both sides. Make the cut with a light setting, continue to the line.
Remove masking tape and reinstall door. Elapsed time about 20 minutes,
less with a helper.
This advice based on been there, done that and learned from talented
subs hired to do that kind of work.
Using any power toll presupposes some expertise as well as practice
with it to become familiar with all operating aspects, including
safety matters like eye protection.

Joe

Noahbuddy wrote in
eb.com:

Jennifer Murphy wrote in
:

I have an old house. From time to time, one door or another will
stick. I assume it's because of the house settling in an uneven
manner.

In the past, I've used a surform tool to shave off about 1/16" or so.
This is a bit of work in an awkward location (top of door) on a
surface that is difficult to stabilize. And, if I'm not careful,
there is a tendency to knock chips off the side.

I have 4-5 doors that are sticking that I have been procrastinating
fixing. I'm thinking about buying a little power sander to make the
task a little easier. I'd be interested in suyggestions for what type
of sander to get. Orbital? Belt? Or something else?

I see some small orbital sanders with a dust collector. Do they work?
That would make clean up a lot easier.


Mine stick due the humid summertime. I leave the door(s) alone.

Is the top edge primed? Not a sure fire solution but often helps.