On Monday, August 13, 2012 10:33:43 PM UTC-4, GoogaICQ wrote:
On Aug 13, 10:12*pm, Dan Espen wrote:
OK. Well I never knew I had a problem with my cut off until today.
I never touched it the 14 years I've been here.
I just found it strange that when I turned it clockwise to shut it, it
started to leak big time. When I opened it all the way, the leaking
stopped.

If you close it all the way, the leaking will also stop.

The reason it leaks is because you haven't touched it in 14 years. The packing that seals the water in while you are turning the valve handle has taken a "set" and or "dried out."

When the valve is turned all the way one way or the other, the main washer inside is providing the seal to keep the water in. This is why they tell you to always open the valve ALL THE WAY. Never leave it part way open.

Is there an easy way to fix this?

You can try tightening the packing nut, but replace it with a ball valve and you will never have the problem again. It's not as decorative but it is much better built, and functional.


Right. A couple of fellows above were suggesting the washer in the
ballcock assembly was starting to go. One guy suggested I try flipping
the washer over and re-assembling the ballcock. That's what I am
aiming for.

If that doesn't work, I'll buy a new assembly.

Just replace the damn thing. It's painful enough getting to it once. Fix it right the first time so there's no chance of having to go through this a second time right away.

Either way, I need to figure out how to:

1. Stop the water to the tank

You really should know how to do something as important as shutting off the water to your entire house. What if a water line breaks and your house begins to flood? Are you going to post a question here and wait several weeks for an answer?

2. Disassemble the ballcock assembly.

Don't disassemble it. Replace it.

On Tuesday, August 14, 2012 11:44:26 PM UTC-4, GoogaICQ wrote:
Mine is a one piece top that goes from the sink area on the left, to
the toilet area on the right. The whole piece is fastened securely to
the wall and siliconed.
I will eventually need to cut the shelf over the toilet and detach it
from the wall (its only support there).

That would've lasted exactly 10 minutes before I either had the builder back in there to remove it, or I removed it myself and shoved it up the builder's ass. Who the hell builds a NON-REMOVABLE shelf over the top of a toilet tank? What building inspector in his right mind passes an inspection with such a thing in place?

On Aug 31, 10:06*am, "
wrote:
On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 06:33:37 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Aug 30, 7:18*pm, "
wrote:
On Thu, 30 Aug 2012 08:06:21 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 30, 9:46*am, "
wrote:
On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:38:10 -0700 (PDT), GoogaICQ
wrote:

On Aug 19, 11:11 pm, GoogaICQ wrote:
On Aug 17, 12:19 am, Dan Espen wrote:

One of those old brass floats on an arm?
Unscrew the ball float and poke a hole in it, then crush it.
Then remove it from the tank.

Well not brass but on an arm.

Anyways, I have cut the ball in half and removed it from the tank with
the old fill valve.

It didn't help because the new (FM) Fluidmaster W43LSC doesn't fit in
the space under the shelf.

So I have drilled (hacked) a few holes in the shelf, enough to get the
fill valve in the tank.

But I am having trouble installing it.

Can someone please tell me the 'trick' to adjusting the height of the
FM?
The instructions are useless.

You are supposed to twist it to adjust the height. My luck, my unit
does NOT twist. It's stuck. Can anyone tell me how to twist it?

Thanks!

Well my fill valve ordeal continues.
I got a Fluidmaster installed more than a week ago.
I had problems with the installation but finally got it working.

Now I have water hammer right after the tank fills up!
I never had it before with the old fill valve.

That's when one would expect a water hammer. *It's caused by the pressure in
the pipe suddenly going up as the valve closes. *There *should* be an
"anti-hammer" device somewhere in the line. *There may be one but it may be
defective or full of water. *It happens.

I've lived in many houses and have experience with many
more. *In my experience, an anti-hammer device is not
standard and usually not found. *The only ones I've
encountered were added to correct the hammer problem,
if necessary, typically for washing machines.

IME, it is. *It's just not apparent. *I've found lengths of pipe capped off
behind walls in a couple of houses. *That's an anti-hammer device and in no
way was installed to cure a problem.

Never seen them at all in most houses, only once in a while
where there is a washing machine. * Never saw one on a toilet water
line.

Had one behind the wall in the upstairs half-bath in my VT house. *They were
built above the sink shut-offs, at the highest point.

*Over the years, they will fill with
water. *Draining that line will drain the anti-hammer trap.

I don't think it takes very long for the air to disappear, probably
less than a year. * A well pump tank that does not have a
bladder or air replenishment system that is functioning
gets water logged fairly quickly. *Again, in my experience,
it;s maybe a year or so before the pump is short cycling.
And that is with a realtively large air cushion compared to
the tiny amount you'd get in a capped off 1/2" pipe stub.

No, it was still filled after fifteen years. *I don't know if city water
helps, though.



How could you know if a copper pipe stub is filled with
air or water after fifteen years? I doubt there is going to be
any material difference in how quickly air dissolves into
city water versus well water. I say either is going to
happen fairly quickly and the small amount of air
in a capped off stub is going to be gone in a year or so.
Well pumps without a bladder or functioning air
replacement system water log in that timeframe
and the pump short cycles. And that is with a huge
amount of initial air compared to the small amount
in a capped off pipe stub.







Here's what a plumbing eqpt manufacturer says:

http://www.siouxchief.com/Resource_/...ter%20Hammer%2...

"Q: Will air chambers control water hammer?
A: A capped stand pipe or air chamber is not an effective solution
to controlling water hammer. Since nothing separates the air
from the water within an air chamber, it only takes a few short
weeks before the air is absorbed into the water, leaving the
air chamber waterlogged and completely ineffective. Laboratory
tests confirm that the air is depleted by simple air permeation
and by interaction between static pressure and flow pressure."

So, using copper stub pipes as water hammer preventers
doesn't sound like a practical idea to me. *Unless you
expect people to drain their systems frequently to keep
them working.....

It does work.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 18:05:30 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Aug 31, 10:06*am, "
wrote:
On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 06:33:37 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Aug 30, 7:18*pm, "
wrote:
On Thu, 30 Aug 2012 08:06:21 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 30, 9:46*am, "
wrote:
On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:38:10 -0700 (PDT), GoogaICQ
wrote:

On Aug 19, 11:11 pm, GoogaICQ wrote:
On Aug 17, 12:19 am, Dan Espen wrote:

One of those old brass floats on an arm?
Unscrew the ball float and poke a hole in it, then crush it.
Then remove it from the tank.

Well not brass but on an arm.

Anyways, I have cut the ball in half and removed it from the tank with
the old fill valve.

It didn't help because the new (FM) Fluidmaster W43LSC doesn't fit in
the space under the shelf.

So I have drilled (hacked) a few holes in the shelf, enough to get the
fill valve in the tank.

But I am having trouble installing it.

Can someone please tell me the 'trick' to adjusting the height of the
FM?
The instructions are useless.

You are supposed to twist it to adjust the height. My luck, my unit
does NOT twist. It's stuck. Can anyone tell me how to twist it?

Thanks!

Well my fill valve ordeal continues.
I got a Fluidmaster installed more than a week ago.
I had problems with the installation but finally got it working.

Now I have water hammer right after the tank fills up!
I never had it before with the old fill valve.

That's when one would expect a water hammer. *It's caused by the pressure in
the pipe suddenly going up as the valve closes. *There *should* be an
"anti-hammer" device somewhere in the line. *There may be one but it may be
defective or full of water. *It happens.

I've lived in many houses and have experience with many
more. *In my experience, an anti-hammer device is not
standard and usually not found. *The only ones I've
encountered were added to correct the hammer problem,
if necessary, typically for washing machines.

IME, it is. *It's just not apparent. *I've found lengths of pipe capped off
behind walls in a couple of houses. *That's an anti-hammer device and in no
way was installed to cure a problem.

Never seen them at all in most houses, only once in a while
where there is a washing machine. * Never saw one on a toilet water
line.

Had one behind the wall in the upstairs half-bath in my VT house. *They were
built above the sink shut-offs, at the highest point.

*Over the years, they will fill with
water. *Draining that line will drain the anti-hammer trap.

I don't think it takes very long for the air to disappear, probably
less than a year. * A well pump tank that does not have a
bladder or air replenishment system that is functioning
gets water logged fairly quickly. *Again, in my experience,
it;s maybe a year or so before the pump is short cycling.
And that is with a realtively large air cushion compared to
the tiny amount you'd get in a capped off 1/2" pipe stub.

No, it was still filled after fifteen years. *I don't know if city water
helps, though.



How could you know if a copper pipe stub is filled with
air or water after fifteen years?

Because I cut it out when I was remodeling the bathroom. It was still full of
air (and was still working). I put it back when I was done.

On Sep 2, 5:42*pm, "
wrote:
On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 18:05:30 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Aug 31, 10:06*am, "
wrote:
On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 06:33:37 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 30, 7:18*pm, "
wrote:
On Thu, 30 Aug 2012 08:06:21 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 30, 9:46*am, "
wrote:
On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:38:10 -0700 (PDT), GoogaICQ
wrote:

On Aug 19, 11:11 pm, GoogaICQ wrote:
On Aug 17, 12:19 am, Dan Espen wrote:

One of those old brass floats on an arm?
Unscrew the ball float and poke a hole in it, then crush it..
Then remove it from the tank.

Well not brass but on an arm.

Anyways, I have cut the ball in half and removed it from the tank with
the old fill valve.

It didn't help because the new (FM) Fluidmaster W43LSC doesn't fit in
the space under the shelf.

So I have drilled (hacked) a few holes in the shelf, enough to get the
fill valve in the tank.

But I am having trouble installing it.

Can someone please tell me the 'trick' to adjusting the height of the
FM?
The instructions are useless.

You are supposed to twist it to adjust the height. My luck, my unit
does NOT twist. It's stuck. Can anyone tell me how to twist it?

Thanks!

Well my fill valve ordeal continues.
I got a Fluidmaster installed more than a week ago.
I had problems with the installation but finally got it working..

Now I have water hammer right after the tank fills up!
I never had it before with the old fill valve.

That's when one would expect a water hammer. *It's caused by the pressure in
the pipe suddenly going up as the valve closes. *There *should* be an
"anti-hammer" device somewhere in the line. *There may be one but it may be
defective or full of water. *It happens.

I've lived in many houses and have experience with many
more. *In my experience, an anti-hammer device is not
standard and usually not found. *The only ones I've
encountered were added to correct the hammer problem,
if necessary, typically for washing machines.

IME, it is. *It's just not apparent. *I've found lengths of pipe capped off
behind walls in a couple of houses. *That's an anti-hammer device and in no
way was installed to cure a problem.

Never seen them at all in most houses, only once in a while
where there is a washing machine. * Never saw one on a toilet water
line.

Had one behind the wall in the upstairs half-bath in my VT house. *They were
built above the sink shut-offs, at the highest point.

*Over the years, they will fill with
water. *Draining that line will drain the anti-hammer trap.

I don't think it takes very long for the air to disappear, probably
less than a year. * A well pump tank that does not have a
bladder or air replenishment system that is functioning
gets water logged fairly quickly. *Again, in my experience,
it;s maybe a year or so before the pump is short cycling.
And that is with a realtively large air cushion compared to
the tiny amount you'd get in a capped off 1/2" pipe stub.

No, it was still filled after fifteen years. *I don't know if city water
helps, though.

How could you know if a copper pipe stub is filled with
air or water after fifteen years?

Because I cut it out when I was remodeling the bathroom. *It was still full of
air (and was still working). *I put it back when I was done.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You cut out pipes without draining them? It seems to me
one would turn off the water and open a drain prior to cutting
pipes in a bathroom.

On Mon, 3 Sep 2012 12:07:55 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Sep 2, 5:42*pm, "
wrote:
On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 18:05:30 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Aug 31, 10:06*am, "
wrote:
On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 06:33:37 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 30, 7:18*pm, "
wrote:
On Thu, 30 Aug 2012 08:06:21 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 30, 9:46*am, "
wrote:
On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:38:10 -0700 (PDT), GoogaICQ
wrote:

On Aug 19, 11:11 pm, GoogaICQ wrote:
On Aug 17, 12:19 am, Dan Espen wrote:

One of those old brass floats on an arm?
Unscrew the ball float and poke a hole in it, then crush it.
Then remove it from the tank.

Well not brass but on an arm.

Anyways, I have cut the ball in half and removed it from the tank with
the old fill valve.

It didn't help because the new (FM) Fluidmaster W43LSC doesn't fit in
the space under the shelf.

So I have drilled (hacked) a few holes in the shelf, enough to get the
fill valve in the tank.

But I am having trouble installing it.

Can someone please tell me the 'trick' to adjusting the height of the
FM?
The instructions are useless.

You are supposed to twist it to adjust the height. My luck, my unit
does NOT twist. It's stuck. Can anyone tell me how to twist it?

Thanks!

Well my fill valve ordeal continues.
I got a Fluidmaster installed more than a week ago.
I had problems with the installation but finally got it working.

Now I have water hammer right after the tank fills up!
I never had it before with the old fill valve.

That's when one would expect a water hammer. *It's caused by the pressure in
the pipe suddenly going up as the valve closes. *There *should* be an
"anti-hammer" device somewhere in the line. *There may be one but it may be
defective or full of water. *It happens.

I've lived in many houses and have experience with many
more. *In my experience, an anti-hammer device is not
standard and usually not found. *The only ones I've
encountered were added to correct the hammer problem,
if necessary, typically for washing machines.

IME, it is. *It's just not apparent. *I've found lengths of pipe capped off
behind walls in a couple of houses. *That's an anti-hammer device and in no
way was installed to cure a problem.

Never seen them at all in most houses, only once in a while
where there is a washing machine. * Never saw one on a toilet water
line.

Had one behind the wall in the upstairs half-bath in my VT house. *They were
built above the sink shut-offs, at the highest point.

*Over the years, they will fill with
water. *Draining that line will drain the anti-hammer trap.

I don't think it takes very long for the air to disappear, probably
less than a year. * A well pump tank that does not have a
bladder or air replenishment system that is functioning
gets water logged fairly quickly. *Again, in my experience,
it;s maybe a year or so before the pump is short cycling.
And that is with a realtively large air cushion compared to
the tiny amount you'd get in a capped off 1/2" pipe stub.

No, it was still filled after fifteen years. *I don't know if city water
helps, though.

How could you know if a copper pipe stub is filled with
air or water after fifteen years?

Because I cut it out when I was remodeling the bathroom. *It was still full of
air (and was still working). *I put it back when I was done.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You cut out pipes without draining them? It seems to me
one would turn off the water and open a drain prior to cutting
pipes in a bathroom.

Dry as a bone.

On Sep 3, 3:40*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 Sep 2012 12:07:55 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Sep 2, 5:42*pm, "
wrote:
On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 18:05:30 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 31, 10:06*am, "
wrote:
On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 06:33:37 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 30, 7:18*pm, "
wrote:
On Thu, 30 Aug 2012 08:06:21 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 30, 9:46*am, "
wrote:
On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:38:10 -0700 (PDT), GoogaICQ
wrote:

On Aug 19, 11:11 pm, GoogaICQ wrote:
On Aug 17, 12:19 am, Dan Espen wrote:

One of those old brass floats on an arm?
Unscrew the ball float and poke a hole in it, then crush it.
Then remove it from the tank.

Well not brass but on an arm.

Anyways, I have cut the ball in half and removed it from the tank with
the old fill valve.

It didn't help because the new (FM) Fluidmaster W43LSC doesn't fit in
the space under the shelf.

So I have drilled (hacked) a few holes in the shelf, enough to get the
fill valve in the tank.

But I am having trouble installing it.

Can someone please tell me the 'trick' to adjusting the height of the
FM?
The instructions are useless.

You are supposed to twist it to adjust the height. My luck, my unit
does NOT twist. It's stuck. Can anyone tell me how to twist it?

Thanks!

Well my fill valve ordeal continues.
I got a Fluidmaster installed more than a week ago.
I had problems with the installation but finally got it working.

Now I have water hammer right after the tank fills up!
I never had it before with the old fill valve.

That's when one would expect a water hammer. *It's caused by the pressure in
the pipe suddenly going up as the valve closes. *There *should* be an
"anti-hammer" device somewhere in the line. *There may be one but it may be
defective or full of water. *It happens.

I've lived in many houses and have experience with many
more. *In my experience, an anti-hammer device is not
standard and usually not found. *The only ones I've
encountered were added to correct the hammer problem,
if necessary, typically for washing machines.

IME, it is. *It's just not apparent. *I've found lengths of pipe capped off
behind walls in a couple of houses. *That's an anti-hammer device and in no
way was installed to cure a problem.

Never seen them at all in most houses, only once in a while
where there is a washing machine. * Never saw one on a toilet water
line.

Had one behind the wall in the upstairs half-bath in my VT house. *They were
built above the sink shut-offs, at the highest point.

*Over the years, they will fill with
water. *Draining that line will drain the anti-hammer trap.

I don't think it takes very long for the air to disappear, probably
less than a year. * A well pump tank that does not have a
bladder or air replenishment system that is functioning
gets water logged fairly quickly. *Again, in my experience,
it;s maybe a year or so before the pump is short cycling.
And that is with a realtively large air cushion compared to
the tiny amount you'd get in a capped off 1/2" pipe stub.

No, it was still filled after fifteen years. *I don't know if city water
helps, though.

How could you know if a copper pipe stub is filled with
air or water after fifteen years?

Because I cut it out when I was remodeling the bathroom. *It was still full of
air (and was still working). *I put it back when I was done.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You cut out pipes without draining them? *It seems to me
one would turn off the water and open a drain prior to cutting
pipes in a bathroom.

Dry as a bone.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So you cut the bathroom water pipe without draining it
first? I would think if you cut almost any pipe doing that
water is going to start running out. If not from the stub,
then from other parts of the system that are higher.

I just find it very odd that you could just turn off the
water supply and cut any pipe and not have some
amount of water come out. Doesn't work that way in
my world.

On Aug 30, 1:12*am, GoogaICQ wrote:
On Aug 29, 8:36*pm, "
wrote:

I don't see how replacing the shutoff valve is going to
stop a water hammer. * You could try CLOSING the
shutoff valve to the toilet partially. *That might work.
If not, I'd just try replacing it with one that is a different
type.

I was in Home Depot this evening and a guy in the plumbing section
suggested the same thing to solve the water hammer issue.

He suggested closing it a little bit at a time.
So far I did a half turn and three quarter turn, with no new results,
but I'll keep trying and see if it makes a difference.

If the mechanism in the new fill valve is an on/off type, then I don't
see why delaying (slowing the *water refill) will make any
difference.

The ball/float type shuts off the water gradually, while
the newer type shuts it off more rapidly. *Still, you'd
think they would have something in there so that it
still doesn't just slam shut instantly.

* Yes you would think so, but it doesn't appear that way.

I guess it's time for an update.

A few days ago, after getting tired of the water hammering, I just
went out and bought a ball float fill valve.

Installed it and guess what? The water hammer was gone right away.

My friend across the street who has installed many of the Fluidmaster
fill valves said he never had a problem with water hammer with any of
them.
He told me I should simply turn off the stop valve at the toilet,
drain the water and replace the valves. That should do it.

When I started this whole operation a few weeks ago, I couldn't turn
off the stop valve at the toilet. It was locked pretty solid in open
position. Eventually, I was able to release it (close it) but it
started to leak badly, so I turned it back on to stop the leaking. I
then went to the basement and turned off the water main.

Then I drained the toilet, installed the Fluidmaster and later noticed
the water hammer.

When someone suggested I then drain the pipes to remove the hammer, I
didn't do it properly.
With all faucets closed, I turned off the water main, then drained all
the faucets. Then I turned on the faucets from distant to close to the
main. Then I turned on the water main.

But the hammer was there, possibly because I didn't drain the faucets
properly?

Because I liked the quiet operation of the Fluidmaster
I might try an experiment when I have more time in a few months.

I will try to install it in my second bathroom and see if there is
hammer or not.

On Tue, 4 Sep 2012 07:53:21 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Sep 3, 3:40*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 Sep 2012 12:07:55 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Sep 2, 5:42*pm, "
wrote:
On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 18:05:30 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 31, 10:06*am, "
wrote:
On Fri, 31 Aug 2012 06:33:37 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 30, 7:18*pm, "
wrote:
On Thu, 30 Aug 2012 08:06:21 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Aug 30, 9:46*am, "
wrote:
On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:38:10 -0700 (PDT), GoogaICQ
wrote:

On Aug 19, 11:11 pm, GoogaICQ wrote:
On Aug 17, 12:19 am, Dan Espen wrote:

One of those old brass floats on an arm?
Unscrew the ball float and poke a hole in it, then crush it.
Then remove it from the tank.

Well not brass but on an arm.

Anyways, I have cut the ball in half and removed it from the tank with
the old fill valve.

It didn't help because the new (FM) Fluidmaster W43LSC doesn't fit in
the space under the shelf.

So I have drilled (hacked) a few holes in the shelf, enough to get the
fill valve in the tank.

But I am having trouble installing it.

Can someone please tell me the 'trick' to adjusting the height of the
FM?
The instructions are useless.

You are supposed to twist it to adjust the height. My luck, my unit
does NOT twist. It's stuck. Can anyone tell me how to twist it?

Thanks!

Well my fill valve ordeal continues.
I got a Fluidmaster installed more than a week ago.
I had problems with the installation but finally got it working.

Now I have water hammer right after the tank fills up!
I never had it before with the old fill valve.

That's when one would expect a water hammer. *It's caused by the pressure in
the pipe suddenly going up as the valve closes. *There *should* be an
"anti-hammer" device somewhere in the line. *There may be one but it may be
defective or full of water. *It happens.

I've lived in many houses and have experience with many
more. *In my experience, an anti-hammer device is not
standard and usually not found. *The only ones I've
encountered were added to correct the hammer problem,
if necessary, typically for washing machines.

IME, it is. *It's just not apparent. *I've found lengths of pipe capped off
behind walls in a couple of houses. *That's an anti-hammer device and in no
way was installed to cure a problem.

Never seen them at all in most houses, only once in a while
where there is a washing machine. * Never saw one on a toilet water
line.

Had one behind the wall in the upstairs half-bath in my VT house. *They were
built above the sink shut-offs, at the highest point.

*Over the years, they will fill with
water. *Draining that line will drain the anti-hammer trap.

I don't think it takes very long for the air to disappear, probably
less than a year. * A well pump tank that does not have a
bladder or air replenishment system that is functioning
gets water logged fairly quickly. *Again, in my experience,
it;s maybe a year or so before the pump is short cycling.
And that is with a realtively large air cushion compared to
the tiny amount you'd get in a capped off 1/2" pipe stub.

No, it was still filled after fifteen years. *I don't know if city water
helps, though.

How could you know if a copper pipe stub is filled with
air or water after fifteen years?

Because I cut it out when I was remodeling the bathroom. *It was still full of
air (and was still working). *I put it back when I was done.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You cut out pipes without draining them? *It seems to me
one would turn off the water and open a drain prior to cutting
pipes in a bathroom.

Dry as a bone.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So you cut the bathroom water pipe without draining it
first? I would think if you cut almost any pipe doing that
water is going to start running out. If not from the stub,
then from other parts of the system that are higher.

Sure.

I just find it very odd that you could just turn off the
water supply and cut any pipe and not have some
amount of water come out. Doesn't work that way in
my world.

The anti-hammer pipe was _dry_as_a_bone_. No water. Not even wet.