I need to replace the pipes to outdoor faucets in my yard. I have
metal pipe running from meter to house. I have a T already in place in
this pipe. I want to:

1) Put a valve at the T so I can shut off all the water to the yard if
necessary.
2) Put a plastic cover over this - one of those green plastic
sprinkler valve covers, so I can have access to the valve whenever
necessary.
3) From the valve, use PVC schedule 40 to run to the faucets in the
back yard Maybe 100 feet total.
4) When I want a riser with a faucet, use maybe 2-3 feet of metal, and
have the riser tee off from the middle of this three foot run of
metal. That way you can kick and hit the riser, etc., and it won't
break. Then back to PVC until we get to the next riser.

Any problems with this? I've ran hundreds of feet of PVC sch 40 and
never once had a break - except for when I hit the risers. I'm
thinking PVC is OK for the straight runs, and then metal for the
risers so they don't break.

The line from meter to house is 100% metal. The PVC comes off of the
valve at the T, so if the PVC leaks or breaks, I can shut it off
immediately without effecting house water.

On May 31, 2:25*pm, Ook wrote:
I need to replace the pipes to outdoor faucets in my yard. *I have
metal pipe running from meter to house. I have a T already in place in
this pipe. I want to:

1) Put a valve at the T so I can shut off all the water to the yard if
necessary.
2) Put a plastic cover over this - one of those green plastic
sprinkler valve covers, so I can have access to the valve whenever
necessary.
3) From the valve, use PVC schedule 40 to run to the faucets in the
back yard Maybe 100 feet total.
4) When I want a riser with a faucet, use maybe 2-3 feet of metal, and
have the riser tee off from the middle of this three foot run of
metal. That way you can kick and hit the riser, etc., and it won't
break. Then back to PVC until we get to the next riser.

Any problems with this? I've ran hundreds of feet of PVC sch 40 and
never once had a break - except for when I hit the risers. I'm
thinking PVC is OK for the straight runs, and then metal for the
risers so they don't break.

The line from meter to house is 100% metal. The PVC comes off of the
valve at the T, so if the PVC leaks or breaks, I can shut it off
immediately without effecting house water.

I'd use 1" black poly pipe. Easier to work with than PVC,
cheaper, comes in 100 ft or longer lengths, etc. I think the
pros and cons of various pipe for outdoor water runs was
discussed in your previous thread. Don't know where you're
located, but if freezing is an issue, you need to address it.

On 5/31/2012 11:25 AM, Ook wrote:
I need to replace the pipes to outdoor faucets in my yard. I have
metal pipe running from meter to house. I have a T already in place in
this pipe. I want to:

1) Put a valve at the T so I can shut off all the water to the yard if
necessary.
2) Put a plastic cover over this - one of those green plastic
sprinkler valve covers, so I can have access to the valve whenever
necessary.
3) From the valve, use PVC schedule 40 to run to the faucets in the
back yard Maybe 100 feet total.
4) When I want a riser with a faucet, use maybe 2-3 feet of metal, and
have the riser tee off from the middle of this three foot run of
metal. That way you can kick and hit the riser, etc., and it won't
break. Then back to PVC until we get to the next riser.

Any problems with this? I've ran hundreds of feet of PVC sch 40 and
never once had a break - except for when I hit the risers. I'm
thinking PVC is OK for the straight runs, and then metal for the
risers so they don't break.

The line from meter to house is 100% metal. The PVC comes off of the
valve at the T, so if the PVC leaks or breaks, I can shut it off
immediately without effecting house water.

good for me. pvc gets brittle with sun UV exposure, so don't have any
above ground that isn't protected under a box.

On May 31, 11:36*am, "
wrote:
On May 31, 2:25*pm, Ook wrote:









I need to replace the pipes to outdoor faucets in my yard. *I have
metal pipe running from meter to house. I have a T already in place in
this pipe. I want to:

1) Put a valve at the T so I can shut off all the water to the yard if
necessary.
2) Put a plastic cover over this - one of those green plastic
sprinkler valve covers, so I can have access to the valve whenever
necessary.
3) From the valve, use PVC schedule 40 to run to the faucets in the
back yard Maybe 100 feet total.
4) When I want a riser with a faucet, use maybe 2-3 feet of metal, and
have the riser tee off from the middle of this three foot run of
metal. That way you can kick and hit the riser, etc., and it won't
break. Then back to PVC until we get to the next riser.

Any problems with this? I've ran hundreds of feet of PVC sch 40 and
never once had a break - except for when I hit the risers. I'm
thinking PVC is OK for the straight runs, and then metal for the
risers so they don't break.

The line from meter to house is 100% metal. The PVC comes off of the
valve at the T, so if the PVC leaks or breaks, I can shut it off
immediately without effecting house water.

I'd use 1" *black poly pipe. *Easier to work with than PVC,
cheaper, comes in 100 ft or longer lengths, etc. *I think the
pros and cons of various pipe for outdoor water runs was
discussed in your previous thread. *Don't know where you're
located, but if freezing is an issue, you need to address it.

Yeah, the last threads gave me tons of information, I'm just throwing
out a few last minute ideas for comment. I've never worked with black
poly pipe, some of the drains in my basement are black pipe, but I
honestly don't know the difference between the black poly and PVC
versus cPVC.

On May 31, 11:38*am, chaniarts wrote:
On 5/31/2012 11:25 AM, Ook wrote:









I need to replace the pipes to outdoor faucets in my yard. *I have
metal pipe running from meter to house. I have a T already in place in
this pipe. I want to:

1) Put a valve at the T so I can shut off all the water to the yard if
necessary.
2) Put a plastic cover over this - one of those green plastic
sprinkler valve covers, so I can have access to the valve whenever
necessary.
3) From the valve, use PVC schedule 40 to run to the faucets in the
back yard Maybe 100 feet total.
4) When I want a riser with a faucet, use maybe 2-3 feet of metal, and
have the riser tee off from the middle of this three foot run of
metal. That way you can kick and hit the riser, etc., and it won't
break. Then back to PVC until we get to the next riser.

Any problems with this? I've ran hundreds of feet of PVC sch 40 and
never once had a break - except for when I hit the risers. I'm
thinking PVC is OK for the straight runs, and then metal for the
risers so they don't break.

The line from meter to house is 100% metal. The PVC comes off of the
valve at the T, so if the PVC leaks or breaks, I can shut it off
immediately without effecting house water.

good for me. pvc gets brittle with sun UV exposure, so don't have any
above ground that isn't protected under a box.

Another reason I want metal risers....but I'm thinking the PVC
undergound will last a few decades at least, maybe longer. Plus if
something happens it is so much easier to fix than metal.

On May 31, 2:59*pm, Ook wrote:
On May 31, 11:36*am, "
wrote:





On May 31, 2:25*pm, Ook wrote:

I need to replace the pipes to outdoor faucets in my yard. *I have
metal pipe running from meter to house. I have a T already in place in
this pipe. I want to:

1) Put a valve at the T so I can shut off all the water to the yard if
necessary.
2) Put a plastic cover over this - one of those green plastic
sprinkler valve covers, so I can have access to the valve whenever
necessary.
3) From the valve, use PVC schedule 40 to run to the faucets in the
back yard Maybe 100 feet total.
4) When I want a riser with a faucet, use maybe 2-3 feet of metal, and
have the riser tee off from the middle of this three foot run of
metal. That way you can kick and hit the riser, etc., and it won't
break. Then back to PVC until we get to the next riser.

Any problems with this? I've ran hundreds of feet of PVC sch 40 and
never once had a break - except for when I hit the risers. I'm
thinking PVC is OK for the straight runs, and then metal for the
risers so they don't break.

The line from meter to house is 100% metal. The PVC comes off of the
valve at the T, so if the PVC leaks or breaks, I can shut it off
immediately without effecting house water.

I'd use 1" *black poly pipe. *Easier to work with than PVC,
cheaper, comes in 100 ft or longer lengths, etc. *I think the
pros and cons of various pipe for outdoor water runs was
discussed in your previous thread. *Don't know where you're
located, but if freezing is an issue, you need to address it.

Yeah, the last threads gave me tons of information, I'm just throwing
out a few last minute ideas for comment. I've never worked with black
poly pipe, some of the drains in my basement are black pipe, but I
honestly don't know the difference between the black poly and PVC
versus cPVC.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That black drain pipe is probably ABS. Totally different
thing. Poly is flexible, comes in a roll in long lengths, eg
100ft, 250fto, , is approved for potable water and uses barb
fittings with clamps.

Ook wrote:
On May 31, 11:36 am, "
wrote:
On May 31, 2:25 pm, Ook wrote:









I need to replace the pipes to outdoor faucets in my yard. I have
metal pipe running from meter to house. I have a T already in place
in this pipe. I want to:

1) Put a valve at the T so I can shut off all the water to the yard
if necessary.
2) Put a plastic cover over this - one of those green plastic
sprinkler valve covers, so I can have access to the valve whenever
necessary.
3) From the valve, use PVC schedule 40 to run to the faucets in the
back yard Maybe 100 feet total.
4) When I want a riser with a faucet, use maybe 2-3 feet of metal,
and have the riser tee off from the middle of this three foot run of
metal. That way you can kick and hit the riser, etc., and it won't
break. Then back to PVC until we get to the next riser.

Any problems with this? I've ran hundreds of feet of PVC sch 40 and
never once had a break - except for when I hit the risers. I'm
thinking PVC is OK for the straight runs, and then metal for the
risers so they don't break.

The line from meter to house is 100% metal. The PVC comes off of the
valve at the T, so if the PVC leaks or breaks, I can shut it off
immediately without effecting house water.

I'd use 1" black poly pipe. Easier to work with than PVC,
cheaper, comes in 100 ft or longer lengths, etc. I think the
pros and cons of various pipe for outdoor water runs was
discussed in your previous thread. Don't know where you're
located, but if freezing is an issue, you need to address it.

Yeah, the last threads gave me tons of information, I'm just throwing
out a few last minute ideas for comment. I've never worked with black
poly pipe, some of the drains in my basement are black pipe, but I
honestly don't know the difference between the black poly and PVC
versus cPVC.

PVC works fine, and somewhat easier to get non-leaking joints than I've found
for black poly. Black drains are ABS, not poly. Poly uses barbed inserts and
clamps.

On 5/31/2012 12:00 PM, Ook wrote:
On May 31, 11:38 am, wrote:
On 5/31/2012 11:25 AM, Ook wrote:









I need to replace the pipes to outdoor faucets in my yard. I have
metal pipe running from meter to house. I have a T already in place in
this pipe. I want to:

1) Put a valve at the T so I can shut off all the water to the yard if
necessary.
2) Put a plastic cover over this - one of those green plastic
sprinkler valve covers, so I can have access to the valve whenever
necessary.
3) From the valve, use PVC schedule 40 to run to the faucets in the
back yard Maybe 100 feet total.
4) When I want a riser with a faucet, use maybe 2-3 feet of metal, and
have the riser tee off from the middle of this three foot run of
metal. That way you can kick and hit the riser, etc., and it won't
break. Then back to PVC until we get to the next riser.

Any problems with this? I've ran hundreds of feet of PVC sch 40 and
never once had a break - except for when I hit the risers. I'm
thinking PVC is OK for the straight runs, and then metal for the
risers so they don't break.

The line from meter to house is 100% metal. The PVC comes off of the
valve at the T, so if the PVC leaks or breaks, I can shut it off
immediately without effecting house water.

good for me. pvc gets brittle with sun UV exposure, so don't have any
above ground that isn't protected under a box.

Another reason I want metal risers....but I'm thinking the PVC
undergound will last a few decades at least, maybe longer. Plus if
something happens it is so much easier to fix than metal.
Before you get too far into this project, be aware, if you are truely on
city water or a real water district, Federal law requires them to
require you have a back-flo inhibitor on your irrigation system and that
it be inspected annually.

Paul

On Thu, 31 May 2012 13:33:09 -0700, Paul Drahn
wrote:

Before you get too far into this project, be aware, if you are truely on
city water or a real water district, Federal law requires them to
require you have a back-flo inhibitor on your irrigation system and that
it be inspected annually.

Paul

I was dinged on a home inspection (sell). Didn't have a Hose Bib
Vacuum Breaker...

http://www.amazon.com/Vacuum-Breaker-CONNECTOR-VACUUM-BREAK/dp/B007EORTI6

My bride complains because it "leaks" when the water is shut off.

I giggle instead of trying to change her mind.

On my present hose bibs. I think she has given up thinking there is a
"leak".

I've never worked with black poly pipe, some of the drains in my
basement are black pipe, but I honestly don't know the difference
between the black poly and PVC versus cPVC.

The black pipe in your basement is probably ABS. It's a hard plastic
pipe, usually 2" or larger with fittings that are solvent welded (glued)
in place. It's not rated for water supplies.

Black poly pipe is usually around 1" diameter, and comes in big rolls.
You then use barbed fittings to transition to other pipe or fittings.

PVC is a hard white plastic, with solvent welded fittings. There are two
different versions for drain lines (usually 1-1/2" and larger) and supply
lines (usually 1" and smaller).

CPVC is a hard cream colored plastic that is designed for hot water use.
You can use CPVC for both hot and cold water, but for a buried cold water
line regular PVC works fine.

Note that PVC and CPVC can both be damaged by UV light so they should
only be used indoors, or buried underground (The grey plastic electrical
conduit is also PVC with added UV protectors, but it's not rated for
water supplies).


Black poly pipe is nice for buried lines as it is flexible and has no
connections other than the two ends. It works especially well for long
buried runs (over 100'). However, installation can be a little tricky as
the coiled pipe is like wrestling with a snake, and inserting the barbed
fittings can be a pain. Also, while the pipe itself works great
underground, the galvanized barb fittings do rust and corrode
underground. If you need to repair a damaged line or add a tee in at a
later date, it can be kind of tricky to get the barbed fittings in place.
Poly pipe does work nice in situations where you can't keep things dry
for solvent welding (working in the rain, etc.). It is flexible, but you
still need to use the barbed fittings if you need to make a sharp turn.

I like PVC for underground lines. It's light, easy to install, and can
make sharp 90 degree turns when needed (with the right fittings). Repairs
and later alterations are easy, and it's easy to adapt to other pipe or
fixtures.

4) When I want a riser with a faucet, use maybe 2-3 feet of metal, and
have the riser tee off from the middle of this three foot run of
metal. That way you can kick and hit the riser, etc., and it won't
break. Then back to PVC until we get to the next riser.

If the faucets are out in the yard (not in an insulated building), you
should use a "yard hydrant". These are built so the flow of water is
actually turned off below ground, so the faucet won't freeze and break.
You should be able to find these at any home center, but they look
something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Watersource-Fr...ard-Hydrant-2-
Foot/dp/B0009XB4VM

Take care,

Anthony

On Jun 1, 10:18*am, HerHusband wrote:
I've never worked with black poly pipe, some of the drains in my
basement are black pipe, but I honestly don't know the difference
between the black poly and PVC versus cPVC.

The black pipe in your basement is probably ABS. *It's a hard plastic
pipe, usually 2" or larger with fittings that are solvent welded (glued)
in place. It's not rated for water supplies.

Black poly pipe is usually around 1" diameter, and comes in big rolls.
You then use barbed fittings to transition to other pipe or fittings.

PVC is a hard white plastic, with solvent welded fittings. There are two
different versions for drain lines (usually 1-1/2" and larger) and supply
lines (usually 1" and smaller).

CPVC is a hard cream colored plastic that is designed for hot water use.
You can use CPVC for both hot and cold water, but for a buried cold water
line regular PVC works fine.

Note that PVC and CPVC can both be damaged by UV light so they should
only be used indoors, or buried underground (The grey plastic electrical
conduit is also PVC with added UV protectors, but it's not rated for
water supplies).

Black poly pipe is nice for buried lines as it is flexible and has no
connections other than the two ends. It works especially well for long
buried runs (over 100'). However, installation can be a little tricky as
the coiled pipe is like wrestling with a snake, and inserting the barbed
fittings can be a pain.

It's easy if you use a propane torch to heat the poly pipe
a bit before inserting the fitting.



Also, while the pipe itself works great
underground, the galvanized barb fittings do rust and corrode
underground.

There are also plastic barb fittings available.





If you need to repair a damaged line or add a tee in at a
later date, it can be kind of tricky to get the barbed fittings in place.

No more tricky than adding a tee or repair later to steel, PVC or just
about anything else. None are necessarily
real easy or real difficult.



Poly pipe does work nice in situations where you can't keep things dry
for solvent welding (working in the rain, etc.). It is flexible, but you
still need to use the barbed fittings if you need to make a sharp turn.

I like PVC for underground lines. It's light, easy to install, and can
make sharp 90 degree turns when needed (with the right fittings). Repairs
and later alterations are easy, and it's easy to adapt to other pipe or
fixtures.

4) When I want a riser with a faucet, use maybe 2-3 feet of metal, and
have the riser tee off from the middle of this three foot run of
metal. That way you can kick and hit the riser, etc., and it won't
break. Then back to PVC until we get to the next riser.

If the faucets are out in the yard (not in an insulated building), you
should use a "yard hydrant". *These are built so the flow of water is
actually turned off below ground, so the faucet won't freeze and break.
You should be able to find these at any home center, but they look
something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Watersource-Fr...ard-Hydrant-2-
Foot/dp/B0009XB4VM

Take care,

Anthony

!!THINK PEX!!!

The OP of this group of discussions should getn the award for the most
discussions on the same subject ever.....

I really dont care ut had to mention it

I'm with you. Most conversation threads about the same length of tubing.

Yay! Go team! More threads! I'm waiting to have new threads on trenching,
digging, couplers and fittings, and frost free yard hydrants. A couple
threads on zoning and sectioning off pipe, and a few threads on types of
valves, and their water flow resistance.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"bob haller" wrote in message
...
!!THINK PEX!!!

The OP of this group of discussions should getn the award for the most
discussions on the same subject ever.....

I really dont care ut had to mention it

On Jun 1, 12:32*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I'm with you. Most conversation threads about the same length of tubing.

Yay! Go team! More threads! I'm waiting to have new threads on trenching,
digging, couplers and fittings, and frost free yard hydrants. A couple
threads on zoning and sectioning off pipe, and a few threads on types of
valves, and their water flow resistance.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"bob haller" wrote in message

...
!!THINK PEX!!!

The OP of this group of discussions should getn the award for the most
discussions on the same subject ever.....

I really dont care ut had to mention it

naw, we can never have enough threads....but maybe just one or two
more should just about do it?

I'd go for a couple more.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Ook" wrote in message
...


The OP of this group of discussions should getn the award for the most
discussions on the same subject ever.....

I really dont care ut had to mention it

naw, we can never have enough threads....but maybe just one or two
more should just about do it?

On May 31, 12:00*pm, Ook wrote:
On May 31, 11:38*am, chaniarts wrote:





On 5/31/2012 11:25 AM, Ook wrote:

I need to replace the pipes to outdoor faucets in my yard. *I have
metal pipe running from meter to house. I have a T already in place in
this pipe. I want to:

1) Put a valve at the T so I can shut off all the water to the yard if
necessary.
2) Put a plastic cover over this - one of those green plastic
sprinkler valve covers, so I can have access to the valve whenever
necessary.
3) From the valve, use PVC schedule 40 to run to the faucets in the
back yard Maybe 100 feet total.
4) When I want a riser with a faucet, use maybe 2-3 feet of metal, and
have the riser tee off from the middle of this three foot run of
metal. That way you can kick and hit the riser, etc., and it won't
break. Then back to PVC until we get to the next riser.

Any problems with this? I've ran hundreds of feet of PVC sch 40 and
never once had a break - except for when I hit the risers. I'm
thinking PVC is OK for the straight runs, and then metal for the
risers so they don't break.

The line from meter to house is 100% metal. The PVC comes off of the
valve at the T, so if the PVC leaks or breaks, I can shut it off
immediately without effecting house water.

good for me. pvc gets brittle with sun UV exposure, so don't have any
above ground that isn't protected under a box.

Another reason I want metal risers....but I'm thinking the PVC
undergound will last a few decades at least, maybe longer. Plus if
something happens it is so much easier to fix than metal.

Your 'metal riser' plan is right out of the plumbing manual - that is
the way it is supposed to be done.

I have PVC for all my plumbing including a 1/4 mile cross connection
to a coumminty well. Been in there since 1977 and never a leak except
once that was my fault.

I used a PVC female/Galv male adapter. Never, never do that. The
pressure excerted on the PVC joint when tightening it can crack the
fitting on the casting line. It did on mine in the middle of
January.

I prefer PVC as fixes are quick, easy and cheap. Bottle glue and a
hacksaw is all that is necessary.

Harry K