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#1
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
-- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
#2
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
Steve Barker wrote:
Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous sheet that's chopped to length. That's not to say it isn't being done. Lafarge has been making 4 tapered edge drywall for at least 5 years. I don't know if it's widely available in the US, though. Google Lafarge Synia |
#3
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen
wrote: Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous sheet that's chopped to length. You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals? And just think of those huge ceilings in warehouses. If the warehouse ceiling is 40 ft. X 180 ft. I'd only need 10 sheets of 180 ft long drywall. Then again, why not just have a portable drywall making machine that you bring on the job and custom make the drywall sheets to just fit the room. One sheet for each wall, and another one for the ceiling. All one piece sheets. That would eliminate all that nasty taping joints. Just mud the 4 corners and around the ceiling edges. Better yet, how about liquid drywall, or rolls of dehydrated drywall, where you just unroll what looks like paper, apply it to the wall framing with two sided tape, and spray it with water. The water makes the paper thicken to 1/2". Then allow it to dry for an hour, and the whole room is finished. Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. You'll cover the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall with a trowel. That would be a huge advancement in technology!!! Just think, no taping joints! |
#4
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
Because then they couldn't sell you the tool that tapers the ends.g
you can buy tapered ends-- just not at your local borg. [Though they might be able to order it for you--- Might be fun to ask for some one day] Just don't do any rooms longer than 14 [16?] feet and you don't need to worry about it. Jim |
#5
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
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#6
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
wrote in message ... On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen wrote: Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous sheet that's chopped to length. You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals? And just think of those huge ceilings in warehouses. If the warehouse ceiling is 40 ft. X 180 ft. I'd only need 10 sheets of 180 ft long drywall. Then again, why not just have a portable drywall making machine that you bring on the job and custom make the drywall sheets to just fit the room. One sheet for each wall, and another one for the ceiling. All one piece sheets. That would eliminate all that nasty taping joints. Just mud the 4 corners and around the ceiling edges. Better yet, how about liquid drywall, or rolls of dehydrated drywall, where you just unroll what looks like paper, apply it to the wall framing with two sided tape, and spray it with water. The water makes the paper thicken to 1/2". Then allow it to dry for an hour, and the whole room is finished. Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. You'll cover the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall with a trowel. That would be a huge advancement in technology!!! Just think, no taping joints! Where have you been? Thats the way it used to be done. It was called PLASTER. ww |
#7
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
On 5/10/2012 8:34 AM, WW wrote:
.... Where have you been? Thats the way it used to be done. It was called PLASTER. ww .... whoosh... -- |
#8
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
On 5/10/2012 6:50 AM, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Because then they couldn't sell you the tool that tapers the ends.g you can buy tapered ends-- just not at your local borg. [Though they might be able to order it for you--- Might be fun to ask for some one day] Just don't do any rooms longer than 14 [16?] feet and you don't need to worry about it. Jim the taper would still be nice in the corners. -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
#9
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
On Thu, 10 May 2012 07:50:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote: Because then they couldn't sell you the tool that tapers the ends.g you can buy tapered ends-- just not at your local borg. [Though they might be able to order it for you--- Might be fun to ask for some one day] Just don't do any rooms longer than 14 [16?] feet and you don't need to worry about it. Jim Maybe you could ask them to sell the tapered ends separately. That way you put up a sheet of regular drywall and place the tapered ends wherever you want them. |
#10
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
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#11
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
On Thu, 10 May 2012 17:27:28 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Thu, 10 May 2012 12:40:37 -0500, wrote: On Thu, 10 May 2012 07:50:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote: Because then they couldn't sell you the tool that tapers the ends.g you can buy tapered ends-- just not at your local borg. [Though they might be able to order it for you--- Might be fun to ask for some one day] Just don't do any rooms longer than 14 [16?] feet and you don't need to worry about it. Jim Maybe you could ask them to sell the tapered ends separately. That way you put up a sheet of regular drywall and place the tapered ends wherever you want them. Do you have to get equal quantities of left and right ends? Of course, otherwise they wont match..... |
#12
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
On Thu, 10 May 2012 17:27:28 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Thu, 10 May 2012 12:40:37 -0500, wrote: On Thu, 10 May 2012 07:50:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote: Because then they couldn't sell you the tool that tapers the ends.g you can buy tapered ends-- just not at your local borg. [Though they might be able to order it for you--- Might be fun to ask for some one day] Just don't do any rooms longer than 14 [16?] feet and you don't need to worry about it. Jim Maybe you could ask them to sell the tapered ends separately. That way you put up a sheet of regular drywall and place the tapered ends wherever you want them. Do you have to get equal quantities of left and right ends? I want the drywall with only one end. |
#13
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
On May 10, 7:00*am, Robert Macy wrote:
On May 10, 12:36*am, wrote: ...snip... You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals? ...snip... Where homes have 10 and 12 foot ceilings the drywall is PARALLEL. For a 10 ft ceiling the 2 ft wide strip in the midlle just catches light switches, etc. Also 8' walls. Putting it up vertically causes problems taping and increases the total footage of joints. 10' and 12' sheetrock is also standard and usually in stock at thelocal lumberyard. snip |
#14
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
On May 10, 3:36*am, wrote:
On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen wrote: Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous sheet that's chopped to length. You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals? And just think of those huge ceilings in warehouses. *If the warehouse ceiling is 40 ft. X 180 ft. I'd only need 10 sheets of 180 ft long drywall. Then again, why not just have a portable drywall making machine that you bring on the job and custom make the drywall sheets to just fit the room. *One sheet for each wall, and another one for the ceiling. *All one piece sheets. *That would eliminate all that nasty taping joints. Just mud the 4 corners and around the ceiling edges. Better yet, how about liquid drywall, or rolls of dehydrated drywall, where you just unroll what looks like paper, apply it to the wall framing with two sided tape, and spray it with water. *The water makes the paper thicken to 1/2". *Then allow it to dry for an hour, and the whole room is finished. Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. *You'll cover the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall with a trowel. *That would be a huge advancement in technology!!! Just think, no taping joints! ....and you can add horse hair to make it stronger |
#15
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
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#16
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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
On Mon, 14 May 2012 00:55:13 -0400, micky
wrote: You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals? Sheetrock in a castle is so tacky. Yea, they really should use panelling !!! |
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