Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,733
Default Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 19
Default Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?

Steve Barker wrote:


Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
sheet that's chopped to length.

That's not to say it isn't being done. Lafarge has been making 4 tapered
edge drywall for at least 5 years. I don't know if it's widely available
in the US, though. Google Lafarge Synia
  #3   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 185
Default Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?

On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen
wrote:

Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
sheet that's chopped to length.


You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?

And just think of those huge ceilings in warehouses. If the warehouse
ceiling is 40 ft. X 180 ft. I'd only need 10 sheets of 180 ft long
drywall.

Then again, why not just have a portable drywall making machine that you
bring on the job and custom make the drywall sheets to just fit the
room. One sheet for each wall, and another one for the ceiling. All
one piece sheets. That would eliminate all that nasty taping joints.
Just mud the 4 corners and around the ceiling edges.

Better yet, how about liquid drywall, or rolls of dehydrated drywall,
where you just unroll what looks like paper, apply it to the wall
framing with two sided tape, and spray it with water. The water makes
the paper thicken to 1/2". Then allow it to dry for an hour, and the
whole room is finished.

Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. You'll cover
the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder
with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall
with a trowel. That would be a huge advancement in technology!!!
Just think, no taping joints!


  #4   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,595
Default Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?

Because then they couldn't sell you the tool that tapers the ends.g

you can buy tapered ends-- just not at your local borg. [Though they
might be able to order it for you--- Might be fun to ask for some one
day]

Just don't do any rooms longer than 14 [16?] feet and you don't need
to worry about it.

Jim
  #6   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 960
Default Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?


wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen
wrote:

Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
sheet that's chopped to length.


You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?

And just think of those huge ceilings in warehouses. If the warehouse
ceiling is 40 ft. X 180 ft. I'd only need 10 sheets of 180 ft long
drywall.

Then again, why not just have a portable drywall making machine that you
bring on the job and custom make the drywall sheets to just fit the
room. One sheet for each wall, and another one for the ceiling. All
one piece sheets. That would eliminate all that nasty taping joints.
Just mud the 4 corners and around the ceiling edges.

Better yet, how about liquid drywall, or rolls of dehydrated drywall,
where you just unroll what looks like paper, apply it to the wall
framing with two sided tape, and spray it with water. The water makes
the paper thicken to 1/2". Then allow it to dry for an hour, and the
whole room is finished.

Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. You'll cover
the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder
with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall
with a trowel. That would be a huge advancement in technology!!!
Just think, no taping joints!


Where have you been? Thats the way it used to be done. It was called
PLASTER. ww




  #7   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
dpb dpb is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12,595
Default Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?

On 5/10/2012 8:34 AM, WW wrote:
....


Where have you been? Thats the way it used to be done. It was called
PLASTER. ww

....

whoosh...

--
  #8   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,733
Default Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?

On 5/10/2012 6:50 AM, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Because then they couldn't sell you the tool that tapers the ends.g

you can buy tapered ends-- just not at your local borg. [Though they
might be able to order it for you--- Might be fun to ask for some one
day]

Just don't do any rooms longer than 14 [16?] feet and you don't need
to worry about it.

Jim


the taper would still be nice in the corners.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
  #9   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 185
Default Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?

On Thu, 10 May 2012 07:50:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

Because then they couldn't sell you the tool that tapers the ends.g

you can buy tapered ends-- just not at your local borg. [Though they
might be able to order it for you--- Might be fun to ask for some one
day]

Just don't do any rooms longer than 14 [16?] feet and you don't need
to worry about it.

Jim


Maybe you could ask them to sell the tapered ends separately. That way
you put up a sheet of regular drywall and place the tapered ends
wherever you want them.

  #13   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,044
Default Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?

On May 10, 7:00*am, Robert Macy wrote:
On May 10, 12:36*am, wrote:

...snip...
You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?


...snip...


Where homes have 10 and 12 foot ceilings the drywall is PARALLEL.

For a 10 ft ceiling the 2 ft wide strip in the midlle just catches
light switches, etc.



Also 8' walls. Putting it up vertically causes problems taping and
increases the total footage of joints.

10' and 12' sheetrock is also standard and usually in stock at
thelocal lumberyard.

snip
  #14   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 20
Default Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?

On May 10, 3:36*am, wrote:
On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen
wrote:

Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
sheet that's chopped to length.


You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?

And just think of those huge ceilings in warehouses. *If the warehouse
ceiling is 40 ft. X 180 ft. I'd only need 10 sheets of 180 ft long
drywall.

Then again, why not just have a portable drywall making machine that you
bring on the job and custom make the drywall sheets to just fit the
room. *One sheet for each wall, and another one for the ceiling. *All
one piece sheets. *That would eliminate all that nasty taping joints.
Just mud the 4 corners and around the ceiling edges.

Better yet, how about liquid drywall, or rolls of dehydrated drywall,
where you just unroll what looks like paper, apply it to the wall
framing with two sided tape, and spray it with water. *The water makes
the paper thicken to 1/2". *Then allow it to dry for an hour, and the
whole room is finished.

Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. *You'll cover
the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder
with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall
with a trowel. *That would be a huge advancement in technology!!!
Just think, no taping joints!


....and you can add horse hair to make it stronger
  #15   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,582
Default Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?

On Thu, 10 May 2012 02:36:14 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen
wrote:

Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
sheet that's chopped to length.


You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?


Sheetrock in a castle is so tacky.

And just think of those huge ceilings in warehouses. If the warehouse
ceiling is 40 ft. X 180 ft. I'd only need 10 sheets of 180 ft long
drywall.

Then again, why not just have a portable drywall making machine that you
bring on the job and custom make the drywall sheets to just fit the
room. One sheet for each wall, and another one for the ceiling. All


He said the length was continuous, not the width.

one piece sheets. That would eliminate all that nasty taping joints.
Just mud the 4 corners and around the ceiling edges.

Better yet, how about liquid drywall, or rolls of dehydrated drywall,
where you just unroll what looks like paper, apply it to the wall
framing with two sided tape, and spray it with water. The water makes
the paper thicken to 1/2". Then allow it to dry for an hour, and the
whole room is finished.


That's a good idea. We could get rich. You develop it and I'll
publicize it.

Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. You'll cover
the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder
with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall
with a trowel. That would be a huge advancement in technology!!!
Just think, no taping joints!


Better yet.




  #16   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 185
Default Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?

On Mon, 14 May 2012 00:55:13 -0400, micky
wrote:

You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?


Sheetrock in a castle is so tacky.


Yea, they really should use panelling !!!


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
drywall repair - tapered vs non-tapered james Home Repair 8 October 10th 07 05:33 AM
SINO DRILLS--striking bar, extension rod, button bit, cross bit, chisel bit, DTH hammer and bit, integral drill rod, tapered rod, thread bit, tapered bit, shank adapter, ODS( ODEX, TUBEX), mine lamp [email protected] Home Ownership 0 October 10th 06 08:19 AM
SINO DRILLS--striking bar, extension rod, button bit, cross bit, chisel bit, DTH hammer and bit, integral drill rod, tapered rod, thread bit, tapered bit, shank adapter, ODS( ODEX, TUBEX), mine lamp [email protected] Home Ownership 0 September 29th 06 02:56 AM
Drywall tapered edge should be on inside or outside corner? ississauga Home Repair 20 July 30th 03 09:41 PM
Drywall tapered edge should be on inside or outside corner? ississauga Home Ownership 9 July 30th 03 09:41 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:01 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"