Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one that
lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free to
strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend myself
with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door neighbor, a
monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three false alarms a
year before charging. (I believe there are systems that will call my
cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is used only for
calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors, and
high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that there
is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed in
heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy pin
that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter. The
cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that the
house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...der_1453732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have not
considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the systems
(consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published (so
what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations. The
other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 11:12:43 -0400, Rebel1
wrote:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one that
lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free to
strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend myself
with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door neighbor, a
monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three false alarms a
year before charging. (I believe there are systems that will call my
cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is used only for
calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors, and
high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that there
is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed in
heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy pin
that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter. The
cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that the
house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...der_1453732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have not
considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the systems
(consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published (so
what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations. The
other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1



I'm no expert tho I've had a security system in my home for many
years. In my system you cut the power and the monitoring station
gets a signal. My system is wired with a battery backup.

While I think you are right for considering beefed up security, I
can't help think like another poster and wonder why your house was
targeted while you were gone just for one night. I wonder if a
neighbor was connected to this??? I suppose there is no way to
answer this but do you keep valuables in your home and who knows about
it? You might want to move them offsite if possible.

Do you want to consider a dog as added security??? Maybe talk to the
police for advice since they should know the area best.

Rebel1 wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).

Noisy alarms will likely anger neighbors when they eventually false.
False alarms also desensitize neighbors who then ignore them,or even file
complaints.

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)

Could you get home in time to DO anything?
If you call the police to respond,you still have the problem of false
alarms.

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

don't forget reinforced door jambs.
often,burglars just use a crowbar to force open the door frame.
a deadbolt is only as good as the door frame it slides into.
First thing I did when I moved into my apartment was to install a big metal
plate for the deadbolt,and long bolts into the stud beneath the flimsy trim
piece of the frame. you can buy them at home improvement stores. if the
door is wood,that is also a vulnerability,but they make reinforcing plates
for them too. a wood door can split when hit hard,or pried upon with a
crowbar.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

it's pretty rare that a burglar will cut power/phone lines.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
or on a timer.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.

or dark window tint.lets light in,but makes it too hard to see inside.

In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
GOOD idea.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
GOOD idea. I never liked having a window right next to a door.

6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

Burglars are probably used to those.spot them a mile away.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1




the best defense is to make it too hard for them to get in,and to make them
think someone is home so they don't try to get in.

a major problem with an alarm is "who is going to respond to it?"
Do you expect your neighbors to come over and check it out?
there are monitored alarm systems that cost you a yearly subscription.
I've heard not-good things about ADT.(I have no financial interest in any
alarm company.)


you can get security cams that record to a (hidden)PC,and that you can even
check your house out from online. they are good to see if you have outdoor
prowlers,maybe peeking in windows to see if anyone's home. police have
caught burglars who were recorded on security cams.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

"Rebel1" wrote in message
...
Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one that
lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free to
strike elsewhere).

Don't succumb to mission creep. (-: Your job is to protect your home.
Sadly, part of good protection means that you make yourself less of a
potential target and that makes your neighbors more of one.

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend myself
with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door neighbor, a
monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three false alarms a
year before charging. (I believe there are systems that will call my
cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is used only for
calls that I originate.)

You want them out ASAP and you want your neighbors (if you have them)
alerted to a problem in your house ASAP, too. Silent alarm + you wandering
around armed when the cops arrive could = dead you.

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors, and
high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that there
is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

That's part of the problem of balance. How much security is enough? How
much is too much?

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed in
heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy pin
that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter. The
cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

Which is why I am a proponent of the extremely loud inside and outside
alarms. You can have alarm sensors setups that detect the cutting of the
phone line and start the sirens and bells on battery backup. That causes
your neighbors to call the police - what I call the "human wireless
network." No monthly fee.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible e
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Knock on wood but . . . My neighbors all knew I had CCTV. It's pretty
obvious. A whole street of cars got broken into just outside the range of
my front door cam. I figure it was our local crackhead who knew to stay
clear of the camera. Caught one burglar on CCTV, but not the way you'd
think. Just walked in the house and turned on the lights and the CCTV
monitor that's on the same switch. Saw someone walking along the side of
the house (11PM!), grabbed my 2 million candlepower spot and shined it on
his face, not realizing it had burned out his night vision. The cops were
called while I questioned the guy. They came *amazingly* fast.

As for the chance of actually making an ID off the typical consumer grade
CCTV stuff from late at night? Very small. Put on a hoodie and even the
prosumer stuff won't be able to tell Zimmerman from Martin a distances
greater than 20 feet. Video from nite IR cams (except for the stuff NatGeo
uses) and recording equipment looks green and white or black and white and
is usually pretty awful recorded at anything less than HQ. Many consumer
CCTV recorders don't even offer an HQ option since it eats so much disk
space.

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.

Always. I use X-10. Much more sophisticated.

2. Radio or TV on all the time.

I have one hooked up to a motion sensor through X-10 that starts and stops
radio play in a back room. I also have one of their REX electronic dogs
that barks (very convincingly!) when motion is detected on the porch.

3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that the
house is empty also.

Definitely. I put translucent film on the basement windows as well.

4. Locking bars on sliding doors.

Yes.

5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.

Yes.

6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

Couldn't hurt. Steal an ADT sign from someone elses' home. ()-"

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,


http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...der_1453732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have not
considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the systems
(consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published (so
what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations. The
other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

You may also want to talk to your local police. Many departments will give
you a safety walkaound. They can give you lots of important local info,
too.

--
Bobby G.

On 4/6/2012 12:31 PM, Jim Yanik wrote:
wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).

Noisy alarms will likely anger neighbors when they eventually false.
False alarms also desensitize neighbors who then ignore them,or even file
complaints.

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)

Could you get home in time to DO anything?
If you call the police to respond,you still have the problem of false
alarms.

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

don't forget reinforced door jambs.
often,burglars just use a crowbar to force open the door frame.
a deadbolt is only as good as the door frame it slides into.
First thing I did when I moved into my apartment was to install a big metal
plate for the deadbolt,and long bolts into the stud beneath the flimsy trim
piece of the frame. you can buy them at home improvement stores. if the
door is wood,that is also a vulnerability,but they make reinforcing plates
for them too. a wood door can split when hit hard,or pried upon with a
crowbar.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

it's pretty rare that a burglar will cut power/phone lines.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
or on a timer.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.

or dark window tint.lets light in,but makes it too hard to see inside.

In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
GOOD idea.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
GOOD idea. I never liked having a window right next to a door.

6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

Burglars are probably used to those.spot them a mile away.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1




the best defense is to make it too hard for them to get in,and to make them
think someone is home so they don't try to get in.

a major problem with an alarm is "who is going to respond to it?"
Do you expect your neighbors to come over and check it out?
there are monitored alarm systems that cost you a yearly subscription.
I've heard not-good things about ADT.(I have no financial interest in any
alarm company.)


you can get security cams that record to a (hidden)PC,and that you can even
check your house out from online. they are good to see if you have outdoor
prowlers,maybe peeking in windows to see if anyone's home. police have
caught burglars who were recorded on security cams.


Everybody in my neighborhood has alarms and everybody ignores it when a
neighbor's alarm goes off as 99% are false alarms. If your alarm goes
directly to the police you risk a fine for a 2nd false alarm and a third
will cost you more. Neighbor was complaining that it cost her $500 last
year.

On Apr 6, 8:12*am, Rebel1 wrote:
Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one *that
lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free to
strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend myself
with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door neighbor, a
monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three false alarms a
year before charging. (I believe there are systems that will call my
cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is used only for
calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors, and
high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that there
is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed in
heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy pin
that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter. The
cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that the
house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...uide/dp/145373...

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have not
considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the systems
(consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published (so
what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations. The
other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1

My comments/opinions:

I was told by police of 7th largest city in US that in their
experience NEVER had power/telephone lines cut by a burglar, even when
all is prominently above ground and accessible.

ALARMS:
local alarm
external: loud/obnoxious for 5+ minutes, won't anger neighbors too
much, lights flashing for 10+ minutes. There may be ordinances
concerning noise makers. I mounted my siren INSIDE our home pointing
out through vent opening to meet local ordinance, yet still make noise
outside.
internal: loud/obnoxious 120+dB WITH lights flashing for 20 minutes

silent/monitored alarm
1-2 minutes BEFORE loud local alarms, silent alarm - maybe local
response actually catch someone exiting

cameras: for record/review, possible identification, system connect to
internet to notify you via cell phone, or to service. It is a nice
feature to be able to check for prowlers while you're inside. Once, I
put in military grade proximity alarms, even included radar that
looked through walls to 10 foot regions outside. You could NOT believe
the number of people that wandered around outside at night!

outside indicators:
no decal, just a visible alarm bell - not so discretely tucked away.

As far as 'fortressing' your home...
For valuables, after having a safety deposit box mysteriously lose
some contents [had written list of complete contents at home for
comparison] decided to NEVER let valuables out of my hands again.
Thus, used the dead spaces under our cabinetry in bathroom and kitchen
and built fake back walls into several closets. I converted the
kickstep covers for the cabinetry to become removable. Each was held
in place with those "push to open" latches. Contents under cabinets
were those heavy coin collections etc, heavy, thin flat items, more
than 200 lb total. The spaces made by the fake back walls in the
closets were to enclose larger items, like sterlingware, special
jewelry, etc. and wife's collection of furs. NOBODY knew about the
false areas, except us. Then added a more conventional, and
prominent, bolt down safe to occupy anyone who wanted to hang around
and get the lollipop out of it. Thus, the home was secure, but did
not appear to be fortified.
Pass the word around that your home has NOTHING of value inside it,
has cameras security etc just to prevent potential vandalism from any
angry intruder.

Rebel1 wrote:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system
in my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone.

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act,

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun.

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding
doors, and high quality door locks.

4. How easy is it to defeat?

My experience with alarm systems is that I've installed 3 alarm systems
over the past 13 years - twice at my office (which moved to a different
location) and once in my home.

The systems at my office consisted of:

- motion detectors mounted in every room with either an outside
door or a window (sensors mounted in the corner of the room
where the walls meet the suspended ceiling)
- magnetic door sensors on each outside door

Wires were run from these sensors above the suspended ceiling to the
control unit. I performed all this work myself. I bought the sensors
and control unit (DSC 5500) from a local company that installs alarm
systems.

The control unit is designed to call 2 different phone numbers upon
sensing an alarm condition. I programmed the unit to call my home
telephone and the home phone of another key person. I did not subscribe
to an alarm monitoring company because there really isin't any need. If
either myself or the other key person gets the phone call from the unit,
we can use our own judgement as to how to proceed (either go to the
office, call the police or someone else, etc).

In the 12 years that I've had the alarm at the office, there hasn't ever
been a break-in, but there have been false-alarms caused by the motion
sensors (this seemed to happen during very cold winter nights when the
furnace would kick on and blow warm air over the windows, possibly
causing the blinds to move around).

At my house, I only have sensors to detect the opening and closing of
the front and back doors. Each door has a screen door and a "main" or
proper door, and both doors are monitored independantly at both
locations. I have the exact same DSC 5500 unit at home, and I have it
programmed to call my work phone number (because when I'm not at home,
the odds are I'm at work). I've never had a break-in at home, so that
unit has never been in an alarm condition where it's called me at work.
Door sensors are highly reliable and almost never give false alarms.

These alarm systems have keypads that you typically place near your
entrance/exit door. When you enter the premises when the alarm is set,
the keypad will emit a tone until you enter the code to deactivate the
system. If you don't enter the code, it will enter the alarm state in
30 seconds (or what-ever time period you want).

A burglar would also hear the tone upon entering the premises, and he
might decide to just turn around and leave because he knows that a
response will happen within minutes.

The control unit can power a loud horn (that you can place anywhere,
inside, outside, etc) if the unit enters the alarm mode. I don't have
any such horn connected to either of my work or home systems.

My current office location has bars over vulnerable lower-floor glass
windows, but my previous location had about 20 large windows (about 30
inches by 60 inches, double-pane) that had a protective membrane applied
to the inner pane to effectively laminate the glass and make it very
hard to penetrate. The membrane was slightly tinted to make it harder
to see inside and block some solar heat radiation from entering the
office. This lamination is available for residential windows and when I
get new windows for my home I will probably put this lamination on them.

Over the past few years I've been experimenting with cameras (internet
connected "IP" cameras) at home and the office. I have one such camera
on my front porch looking out onto the street. I can program the camera
to monitor the image and can define specific zones to sense any motion
in those zones, and it will send me an e-mail with the picture showing
what-ever is moving in the triggered zone. I therefor have images of
vehicles driving in front of my house, people walking up to my door,
etc.

I can also monitor a live video signal from that camera on my computer
at work if I want. I have a similar camera watching my back door. That
one has a microphone and speaker output (I can hear what's going on, and
I can speak into a microphone connected to my computer at work and have
it come out of the speakers connected to the back-door camera at
home). All of this is done without needing to subscribe to any server
or service. It's a direct internet connection between my office
computer and the cameras at home.

There are "apps" available for iSlave and other smart phones if that's
what you use vs a proper desktop computer. These apps are generally NOT
free - but typically cost $5 and they have a more limited functionality
vs what you can do on a PC.

For a home situation, it's very ergonomic to set up a home PC to perform
the video recording from the camera. As long as the PC isin't stolen,
you'll have a video record of who broke into your home (or who rang your
door bell, etc).

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their
visible presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops
catch?

My brother is somewhat of a video geek and he set up a real video camera
over the entrance to my parents garage (this is a 2-car attached
garage). There is also a bright light over this door. He set up a
video recording system (I think it recorded directly to a DVD-RW) and it
will just record over and over to the same disk each night.

One night it recorded some punk trying to break into the garage. The
camera recorded a nice clear image of the punk. The door was well
fortified so he didn't actually break in. My parents gave the video to
the police. They gave a copy to the local newspaper who put up a link
to the video on their website. After a few days the punk was identified
and he was charged (with attempted break-in I think).

I'm probably going to buy something called a "trail-cam". It's a camera
normally used by hunters and biologists that want to record pictures of
animals in remote locations. These cameras have motion detectors and
have very good night-vision capability, and have batteries that can last
up to a year, and can take thousands of hi-rez pictures over that time.

I would mount this camera to a tree in my front yard where it has a view
of the street. It would take pictures of any punks trolling around at
night looking for cars with unlocked doors.

The bottom line is that you need to ask yourself:

1) How much of any of this am I capable of doing myself (running wires,
buying specific devices, etc). Doing it yourself can save you a lot of
$$$ and you end up with something very customized to your situation.

2) One basic question is - does the alarm system call a monitoring
service, or does it call you and/or any other appropriate person
(friend, family member, neighbor, etc) during an alarm condition. The
answer depends on (a) how much money you want to save, and (b) are there
people you trust (and who is willing to take the responsibility, and who
is likely to be able to come to your house when you're out of town).

I think it's overwhelmingly better to have "personal" response to an
alarm made by a trusted person instead of a monitoring company.

You could have a reciprocal arrangement with a friend, familiy member or
neighbor: Their alarm system can call you (as a backup contact) if your
alarm system can call them (again they would be your backup contact).

I said earlier that if any sensor is triggered, that the keypad will
emit a tone until the entry code is entered. This tone could be used to
wake you up (if you're home and the sensor is triggered in the middle of
the night). It is possible to place a second keypad in your bedroom
(for example) so you would hear the tone at night.

As for me, I never set my alarm when I'm home. I have no such fear or
expectation of having my home entered by an intruder during the evening
or over-night hours. For one thing, any such attempted entry would
probably wake me up, and second such an evening break-in attempt in my
neighborhood (or even in my city) is just so rare to begin with.

Rebel1 wrote:
Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

Hi,
How about a good trained guard dog. No matter how good security shield
you deploy, bad guys are always one step ahead of you. I have a live-in
domestic helper and a professionally trained guard dog. Alarm system
is very seldom armed.

I should have added that there are a lot of deer in my area, and they
trigger the motion sensor at the front of my garage that turns on a pair
of floodlights. So I can't rely on motion sensors to distinguish between
a car, deer, or people.

Lot sizes in my area are 100x200 ft.

On 4/6/2012 1:47 PM, Home Guy wrote:
Rebel1 wrote:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system
in my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone.

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act,

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun.

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding
doors, and high quality door locks.

4. How easy is it to defeat?

My experience with alarm systems is that I've installed 3 alarm systems
over the past 13 years - twice at my office (which moved to a different
location) and once in my home.

You go on and on ad naseum how perfect everything is in Canada. So why
would you need an alarm system in Canada?

George wrote:

My experience with alarm systems is that I've installed 3 alarm
systems over the past 13 years

You go on and on ad naseum how perfect everything is in Canada.

Yes I do. And it is.

So why would you need an alarm system in Canada?

I see your point.

After 14 years of having alarm systems at two locations - and not a
single attempted or actual break-in, I clearly don't have as much of a
need for an alarm system as you do in the United States of Thievery.

Rebel1 wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1



Having been in the security system business for the last 33 years I can
give you several caveats:

1 A professional thief will get what he wants from your home with no real
problems. The good news is it has to something very valuable for them to
waste their time on. An alarm system will make them think long and hard
before deciding to either attempt your place or the one done the street
with no alarm system.

2 The cops take forever to respond in most alarm system activations. So
my suggestion is the install an indoor siren. If you make the interior
loud enough the amateurs burgulars will leave quickly.

3 Modern systems have battery backup that should be good for at least 72
hours without AC power.

4 Get a system that is centrally monitored. You will have the peace of
mind that as soon as the system activates someone will be on duty to call
the police. In the case of a false alarm while you are home, you can call
them and give them your abort code which will stop them from dispatching
the police or fire dept. I would add a cellular backup transmitter so
that if the thieves cut the phone lines to your house, the signal will be
sent to the central station anyway and the authorities will be
dispatched.

5 Add at least 1 smoke detector to the system so if your home catches
fire while you are away at least the fire dept. will respond, hopefully
in time to prevent a total loss.

6 Connect all doors and operable windows to the system with magnetic
sensors. I would also tamper the covers on the electrical and telephone
panels so that the alarm would activate as soon as someone attempted to
cut the power or phone lines.

7 Infrared motion detectors are a second line of defense in case the
intruder gets past the door or window sensors somehow. If you have pets
get a "dual-tech" style detector that is more resistant to false alarms
from pets.

That pretty much covers the basics. I would contact a licensed alarm
contractor to give you an estimate. At that point you can decide if you
want to attempt the job yourself or let someone else do it. Make sure if
you hire someone that they are bonded and have undergone a background
check.

Hope this helps.
Steve

Rebel1 wrote in :

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

[snip discussion of alternatives]

You left out the most obvious -- and most effective -- burglary deterrent there is: a dog. If
they hear a barking dog inside a house, most burglars will just go somewhere else. They're
looking for quick and easy pickings, not a hassle.

My wife and I are partial to Australian Shepherds, but herding dogs of nearly any breed are
ideal for this purpose: they've been bred to alert, vigorously, to the presence of intruders,
yet be gentle with their flock. This makes them excellent family dogs: they'll be friendly and
playful with you [and your family, should your current situation of living alone ever change],
but bark like the devil if a stranger comes to your door.

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 11:12:43 -0400, Rebel1
wrote:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one that
lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free to
strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend myself
with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door neighbor, a
monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three false alarms a
year before charging. (I believe there are systems that will call my
cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is used only for
calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors, and
high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that there
is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed in
heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy pin
that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter. The
cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that the
house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...der_1453732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have not
considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the systems
(consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published (so
what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations. The
other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1

As for defeating the system - put OBVIOUS phone and cable connections
- but actually dummies, where they would be expected, and hide the
real ones. A cellular backup is almost standard equipment now on
monitored systems - and the whole system is set up to run off a backup
battery in case of power disconnect.

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 11:31:19 -0500, Jim Yanik
wrote:

Rebel1 wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).

Noisy alarms will likely anger neighbors when they eventually false.
False alarms also desensitize neighbors who then ignore them,or even file
complaints.

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)

Could you get home in time to DO anything?
If you call the police to respond,you still have the problem of false
alarms.

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

don't forget reinforced door jambs.
often,burglars just use a crowbar to force open the door frame.
a deadbolt is only as good as the door frame it slides into.
First thing I did when I moved into my apartment was to install a big metal
plate for the deadbolt,and long bolts into the stud beneath the flimsy trim
piece of the frame. you can buy them at home improvement stores. if the
door is wood,that is also a vulnerability,but they make reinforcing plates
for them too. a wood door can split when hit hard,or pried upon with a
crowbar.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

it's pretty rare that a burglar will cut power/phone lines.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
or on a timer.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.

or dark window tint.lets light in,but makes it too hard to see inside.

In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
GOOD idea.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
GOOD idea. I never liked having a window right next to a door.

6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

Burglars are probably used to those.spot them a mile away.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1




the best defense is to make it too hard for them to get in,and to make them
think someone is home so they don't try to get in.

a major problem with an alarm is "who is going to respond to it?"
Do you expect your neighbors to come over and check it out?
there are monitored alarm systems that cost you a yearly subscription.
I've heard not-good things about ADT.(I have no financial interest in any
alarm company.)


you can get security cams that record to a (hidden)PC,and that you can even
check your house out from online. they are good to see if you have outdoor
prowlers,maybe peeking in windows to see if anyone's home. police have
caught burglars who were recorded on security cams.
It's always best to know about them BEFORE they get in.

Perimeter detection is better than interior motion detectors. If you
carry a smart phone (which you do not) 2 way communication is
available - you get to see if anything is out of the ordinary on your
cameras, and speak to the house.

You can even answer the doorebell from across the world. If the
doorbell rings, your phone notifies you, and you can see who is at the
door. If they look suspicious you can tell them they've got 30 seconds
before you come out guns blazing, or whatever.

Home Guy wrote:
George wrote:

My experience with alarm systems is that I've installed 3 alarm
systems over the past 13 years

You go on and on ad naseum how perfect everything is in Canada.

Yes I do. And it is.

So why would you need an alarm system in Canada?

I see your point.

After 14 years of having alarm systems at two locations - and not a
single attempted or actual break-in, I clearly don't have as much of a
need for an alarm system as you do in the United States of Thievery.
Hmmm,
I left Ontario(used to live in Scarboro) about this time of the year
1970. I never looked back. U.S. has lot more population than Canada.
A fact to keep in mind when comparing two neighbors. Ontario the
province soon to be have not place.

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 12:41:56 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 4/6/2012 12:31 PM, Jim Yanik wrote:
wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).

Noisy alarms will likely anger neighbors when they eventually false.
False alarms also desensitize neighbors who then ignore them,or even file
complaints.

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)

Could you get home in time to DO anything?
If you call the police to respond,you still have the problem of false
alarms.

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

don't forget reinforced door jambs.
often,burglars just use a crowbar to force open the door frame.
a deadbolt is only as good as the door frame it slides into.
First thing I did when I moved into my apartment was to install a big metal
plate for the deadbolt,and long bolts into the stud beneath the flimsy trim
piece of the frame. you can buy them at home improvement stores. if the
door is wood,that is also a vulnerability,but they make reinforcing plates
for them too. a wood door can split when hit hard,or pried upon with a
crowbar.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

it's pretty rare that a burglar will cut power/phone lines.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
or on a timer.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.

or dark window tint.lets light in,but makes it too hard to see inside.

In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
GOOD idea.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
GOOD idea. I never liked having a window right next to a door.

6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

Burglars are probably used to those.spot them a mile away.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1




the best defense is to make it too hard for them to get in,and to make them
think someone is home so they don't try to get in.

a major problem with an alarm is "who is going to respond to it?"
Do you expect your neighbors to come over and check it out?
there are monitored alarm systems that cost you a yearly subscription.
I've heard not-good things about ADT.(I have no financial interest in any
alarm company.)


you can get security cams that record to a (hidden)PC,and that you can even
check your house out from online. they are good to see if you have outdoor
prowlers,maybe peeking in windows to see if anyone's home. police have
caught burglars who were recorded on security cams.


Everybody in my neighborhood has alarms and everybody ignores it when a
neighbor's alarm goes off as 99% are false alarms. If your alarm goes
directly to the police you risk a fine for a 2nd false alarm and a third
will cost you more. Neighbor was complaining that it cost her $500 last
year.
If you have false alarms something is wrong with your system, or
your residents - and a $500 charge for the false alarms would be much
better spent fixing the system.

Doug Miller wrote:

My wife and I are partial to Australian Shepherds, but herding dogs of nearly any breed are
ideal for this purpose: they've been bred to alert, vigorously, to the presence of intruders,
yet be gentle with their flock. This makes them excellent family dogs: they'll be friendly and
playful with you [and your family, should your current situation of living alone ever change],
but bark like the devil if a stranger comes to your door.
Hi,
I just lost our 10 yo Aussie shepherds. One of best dogs we had. It
developed a severe case of diabetes, went blind last year and quit
eating couple weeks ago. We had to have him put down. We already have
replacement in the house. After, I found out this breed is prone to
diabetes due to it's genetics. Don't let your dog go over weight, that
is warning sign.

On Fri, 6 Apr 2012 10:28:39 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Apr 6, 8:12Â*am, Rebel1 wrote:
Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one Â*that
lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free to
strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend myself
with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door neighbor, a
monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three false alarms a
year before charging. (I believe there are systems that will call my
cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is used only for
calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors, and
high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that there
is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed in
heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy pin
that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter. The
cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that the
house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...uide/dp/145373...

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have not
considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the systems
(consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published (so
what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations. The
other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1

My comments/opinions:

I was told by police of 7th largest city in US that in their
experience NEVER had power/telephone lines cut by a burglar, even when
all is prominently above ground and accessible.

ALARMS:
local alarm
external: loud/obnoxious for 5+ minutes, won't anger neighbors too
much, lights flashing for 10+ minutes. There may be ordinances
concerning noise makers. I mounted my siren INSIDE our home pointing
out through vent opening to meet local ordinance, yet still make noise
outside.
internal: loud/obnoxious 120+dB WITH lights flashing for 20 minutes

silent/monitored alarm
1-2 minutes BEFORE loud local alarms, silent alarm - maybe local
response actually catch someone exiting

cameras: for record/review, possible identification, system connect to
internet to notify you via cell phone, or to service. It is a nice
feature to be able to check for prowlers while you're inside. Once, I
put in military grade proximity alarms, even included radar that
looked through walls to 10 foot regions outside. You could NOT believe
the number of people that wandered around outside at night!

outside indicators:
no decal, just a visible alarm bell - not so discretely tucked away.

As far as 'fortressing' your home...
For valuables, after having a safety deposit box mysteriously lose
some contents [had written list of complete contents at home for
comparison] decided to NEVER let valuables out of my hands again.
Thus, used the dead spaces under our cabinetry in bathroom and kitchen
and built fake back walls into several closets. I converted the
kickstep covers for the cabinetry to become removable. Each was held
in place with those "push to open" latches. Contents under cabinets
were those heavy coin collections etc, heavy, thin flat items, more
than 200 lb total. The spaces made by the fake back walls in the
closets were to enclose larger items, like sterlingware, special
jewelry, etc. and wife's collection of furs. NOBODY knew about the
false areas, except us. Then added a more conventional, and
prominent, bolt down safe to occupy anyone who wanted to hang around
and get the lollipop out of it. Thus, the home was secure, but did
not appear to be fortified.
Pass the word around that your home has NOTHING of value inside it,
has cameras security etc just to prevent potential vandalism from any
angry intruder.
My brother's vacation home/trailer was a target for theives until he
installed an X10 alarm system with cameras and PC recorder - and a set
of Fiamm air horms - all run off a good UPS system so it works even 8
hours after the power is disconnected.

One miscreant left a patch of denim with better than a square inch of
skin/flesh from his shin on the "downspoout re-enforcement" at the
back corner of the trailer when he headed for the bush when the
flood-lights came on and blinded him.

That was the last episode - on a cold stormy winter night when the
power was out in the whole area and the guy must have figured the
"obvious" alarm system would be useless.

The neighbours know if they hear the air horn something untoward is
going on at the place on the bend - and they are often there, cell
phone in hand, by the time my brother is online checking out the
cameras. The last time the neighbour had the police called within
minutes. Didn't get the guy, but he spent a long cold (and apparently
painfull) night in the bush, because the cops were around for quite
some time waiting for him to come out. When my brother got there next
morning he found tracks leading from the bush to a house down the way
that is known to be trouble - no proof it was him, but apparently all
his bad-news buddies now know it's not worth the effort.

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 14:44:52 -0400, George
wrote:

On 4/6/2012 1:47 PM, Home Guy wrote:
Rebel1 wrote:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system
in my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone.

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act,

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun.

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding
doors, and high quality door locks.

4. How easy is it to defeat?

My experience with alarm systems is that I've installed 3 alarm systems
over the past 13 years - twice at my office (which moved to a different
location) and once in my home.

You go on and on ad naseum how perfect everything is in Canada. So why
would you need an alarm system in Canada?

Hey, Canada's not PERFECT, but you are a lot less likely to get shot
- and having an alarm makes it less likely you will be broken into -
and more likely that IF broken into the theif will leave empty-handed
- and do less damage.
I've installed a good half dozen alarm systems over the years - plus
alarms on several vehicles.
The alarm at the shop caught the guy who had been breaking into auto
repair shops in the area the FIRST NIGHT it was in operation - and
before he even got the door open. He was still trying to pry open the
(un-used, bolted) rear door of the shop when the cops responded to the
glass breakage detector that went off when he drove over the service
bell hose in front of the shop that the boss had forgoten to shut off
when he left the shop!!! They got there, did their walk-around, and
caught the guy busy with his crowbar.

On 06 Apr 2012 19:20:01 GMT, Steve wrote:

Rebel1 wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1



Having been in the security system business for the last 33 years I can
give you several caveats:

1 A professional thief will get what he wants from your home with no real
problems. The good news is it has to something very valuable for them to
waste their time on. An alarm system will make them think long and hard
before deciding to either attempt your place or the one done the street
with no alarm system.

2 The cops take forever to respond in most alarm system activations. So
my suggestion is the install an indoor siren. If you make the interior
loud enough the amateurs burgulars will leave quickly.

3 Modern systems have battery backup that should be good for at least 72
hours without AC power.

4 Get a system that is centrally monitored. You will have the peace of
mind that as soon as the system activates someone will be on duty to call
the police. In the case of a false alarm while you are home, you can call
them and give them your abort code which will stop them from dispatching
the police or fire dept. I would add a cellular backup transmitter so
that if the thieves cut the phone lines to your house, the signal will be
sent to the central station anyway and the authorities will be
dispatched.

5 Add at least 1 smoke detector to the system so if your home catches
fire while you are away at least the fire dept. will respond, hopefully
in time to prevent a total loss.

6 Connect all doors and operable windows to the system with magnetic
sensors. I would also tamper the covers on the electrical and telephone
panels so that the alarm would activate as soon as someone attempted to
cut the power or phone lines.

7 Infrared motion detectors are a second line of defense in case the
intruder gets past the door or window sensors somehow. If you have pets
get a "dual-tech" style detector that is more resistant to false alarms
from pets.

That pretty much covers the basics. I would contact a licensed alarm
contractor to give you an estimate. At that point you can decide if you
want to attempt the job yourself or let someone else do it. Make sure if
you hire someone that they are bonded and have undergone a background
check.

Hope this helps.
Steve
You forgot the "dual mode" glass breakage detectors. Trigger the
alarm BEFORE they actually get inside if possible.

Rebel1 wrote:

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

You'll get better answers in alt.security.alarms

its filled with professional installers.


--
I like refried beans. That's why I wanna try fried beans,
because maybe they're just as good and we're just wasting time.
You don't have to fry them again after all. -Mitch Hedberg

On 4/6/2012 10:12 AM, Rebel1 wrote:
Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...der_1453732039


it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1



Sorry to read about your b/i. I know how it feels.

I don't think fake stickers are a bad idea at all.

A good insurance policy is a good idea too. If you have one that
replaces stolen items at present value even better. You have to do a
cost benefit analysis but for me having a good policy paid off well.

I had security doors installed. They really don't look that bad, or they
didn't on my old house. Some say they are a hazard because they can be
difficult to escape in case of a fire. It's something to consider.

http://www.fourseasonssunrooms.com/D...urity_door.jpg

That way the burglars can't walk right out the front door with your
stuff. They usually go with the path of least resistance. My neighbor
got a little upset when I put mine in but too bad. They don't cost that
much and he can buy his own if he doesn't like it.

I lived in a real high crime area (Abq NM) and after that we never got
burgled again.

On 4/6/2012 3:03 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 6 Apr 2012 10:28:39 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Apr 6, 8:12 am, wrote:
Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one that
lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free to
strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend myself
with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door neighbor, a
monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three false alarms a
year before charging. (I believe there are systems that will call my
cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is used only for
calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors, and
high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that there
is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed in
heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy pin
that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter. The
cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that the
house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...uide/dp/145373...

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have not
considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the systems
(consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published (so
what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations. The
other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1
My comments/opinions:

I was told by police of 7th largest city in US that in their
experience NEVER had power/telephone lines cut by a burglar, even when
all is prominently above ground and accessible.

ALARMS:
local alarm
external: loud/obnoxious for 5+ minutes, won't anger neighbors too
much, lights flashing for 10+ minutes. There may be ordinances
concerning noise makers. I mounted my siren INSIDE our home pointing
out through vent opening to meet local ordinance, yet still make noise
outside.
internal: loud/obnoxious 120+dB WITH lights flashing for 20 minutes

silent/monitored alarm
1-2 minutes BEFORE loud local alarms, silent alarm - maybe local
response actually catch someone exiting

cameras: for record/review, possible identification, system connect to
internet to notify you via cell phone, or to service. It is a nice
feature to be able to check for prowlers while you're inside. Once, I
put in military grade proximity alarms, even included radar that
looked through walls to 10 foot regions outside. You could NOT believe
the number of people that wandered around outside at night!

outside indicators:
no decal, just a visible alarm bell - not so discretely tucked away.

As far as 'fortressing' your home...
For valuables, after having a safety deposit box mysteriously lose
some contents [had written list of complete contents at home for
comparison] decided to NEVER let valuables out of my hands again.
Thus, used the dead spaces under our cabinetry in bathroom and kitchen
and built fake back walls into several closets. I converted the
kickstep covers for the cabinetry to become removable. Each was held
in place with those "push to open" latches. Contents under cabinets
were those heavy coin collections etc, heavy, thin flat items, more
than 200 lb total. The spaces made by the fake back walls in the
closets were to enclose larger items, like sterlingware, special
jewelry, etc. and wife's collection of furs. NOBODY knew about the
false areas, except us. Then added a more conventional, and
prominent, bolt down safe to occupy anyone who wanted to hang around
and get the lollipop out of it. Thus, the home was secure, but did
not appear to be fortified.
Pass the word around that your home has NOTHING of value inside it,
has cameras security etc just to prevent potential vandalism from any
angry intruder.
My brother's vacation home/trailer was a target for theives until he
installed an X10 alarm system with cameras and PC recorder - and a set
of Fiamm air horms - all run off a good UPS system so it works even 8
hours after the power is disconnected.

One miscreant left a patch of denim with better than a square inch of
skin/flesh from his shin on the "downspoout re-enforcement" at the
back corner of the trailer when he headed for the bush when the
flood-lights came on and blinded him.

That was the last episode - on a cold stormy winter night when the
power was out in the whole area and the guy must have figured the
"obvious" alarm system would be useless.

The neighbours know if they hear the air horn something untoward is
going on at the place on the bend - and they are often there, cell
phone in hand, by the time my brother is online checking out the
cameras. The last time the neighbour had the police called within
minutes. Didn't get the guy, but he spent a long cold (and apparently
painfull) night in the bush, because the cops were around for quite
some time waiting for him to come out. When my brother got there next
morning he found tracks leading from the bush to a house down the way
that is known to be trouble - no proof it was him, but apparently all
his bad-news buddies now know it's not worth the effort.

My neighbor installed a ridiculously huge air horn, I don't think he
ever got robbed.

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 15:49:46 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 12:41:56 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 4/6/2012 12:31 PM, Jim Yanik wrote:
wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).

Noisy alarms will likely anger neighbors when they eventually false.
False alarms also desensitize neighbors who then ignore them,or even file
complaints.

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)

Could you get home in time to DO anything?
If you call the police to respond,you still have the problem of false
alarms.

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

don't forget reinforced door jambs.
often,burglars just use a crowbar to force open the door frame.
a deadbolt is only as good as the door frame it slides into.
First thing I did when I moved into my apartment was to install a big metal
plate for the deadbolt,and long bolts into the stud beneath the flimsy trim
piece of the frame. you can buy them at home improvement stores. if the
door is wood,that is also a vulnerability,but they make reinforcing plates
for them too. a wood door can split when hit hard,or pried upon with a
crowbar.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

it's pretty rare that a burglar will cut power/phone lines.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
or on a timer.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.

or dark window tint.lets light in,but makes it too hard to see inside.

In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
GOOD idea.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
GOOD idea. I never liked having a window right next to a door.

6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

Burglars are probably used to those.spot them a mile away.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1




the best defense is to make it too hard for them to get in,and to make them
think someone is home so they don't try to get in.

a major problem with an alarm is "who is going to respond to it?"
Do you expect your neighbors to come over and check it out?
there are monitored alarm systems that cost you a yearly subscription.
I've heard not-good things about ADT.(I have no financial interest in any
alarm company.)


you can get security cams that record to a (hidden)PC,and that you can even
check your house out from online. they are good to see if you have outdoor
prowlers,maybe peeking in windows to see if anyone's home. police have
caught burglars who were recorded on security cams.


Everybody in my neighborhood has alarms and everybody ignores it when a
neighbor's alarm goes off as 99% are false alarms. If your alarm goes
directly to the police you risk a fine for a 2nd false alarm and a third
will cost you more. Neighbor was complaining that it cost her $500 last
year.
If you have false alarms something is wrong with your system, or
your residents - and a $500 charge for the false alarms would be much
better spent fixing the system.



You are correct. A correctly installed system shouldn't give false
alarms. In my first home, it never happened for as long as I lived
there (years). In my 2nd home, it did give false alarms for the first
month till I had it adjusted correctly. Hasn't happened since for
over a decade and counting. I've tripped it myself by accident so in
that case I just shut it off or reset it.

On 4/6/2012 3:48 PM, Doug wrote:
On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 15:49:46 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 12:41:56 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 4/6/2012 12:31 PM, Jim Yanik wrote:
wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).
Noisy alarms will likely anger neighbors when they eventually false.
False alarms also desensitize neighbors who then ignore them,or even file
complaints.
2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)
Could you get home in time to DO anything?
If you call the police to respond,you still have the problem of false
alarms.
3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.
don't forget reinforced door jambs.
often,burglars just use a crowbar to force open the door frame.
a deadbolt is only as good as the door frame it slides into.
First thing I did when I moved into my apartment was to install a big metal
plate for the deadbolt,and long bolts into the stud beneath the flimsy trim
piece of the frame. you can buy them at home improvement stores. if the
door is wood,that is also a vulnerability,but they make reinforcing plates
for them too. a wood door can split when hit hard,or pried upon with a
crowbar.
4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.
it's pretty rare that a burglar will cut power/phone lines.
5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
or on a timer.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
or dark window tint.lets light in,but makes it too hard to see inside.

In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
GOOD idea.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
GOOD idea. I never liked having a window right next to a door.

6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.
Burglars are probably used to those.spot them a mile away.
After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1



the best defense is to make it too hard for them to get in,and to make them
think someone is home so they don't try to get in.

a major problem with an alarm is "who is going to respond to it?"
Do you expect your neighbors to come over and check it out?
there are monitored alarm systems that cost you a yearly subscription.
I've heard not-good things about ADT.(I have no financial interest in any
alarm company.)


you can get security cams that record to a (hidden)PC,and that you can even
check your house out from online. they are good to see if you have outdoor
prowlers,maybe peeking in windows to see if anyone's home. police have
caught burglars who were recorded on security cams.

Everybody in my neighborhood has alarms and everybody ignores it when a
neighbor's alarm goes off as 99% are false alarms. If your alarm goes
directly to the police you risk a fine for a 2nd false alarm and a third
will cost you more. Neighbor was complaining that it cost her $500 last
year.
If you have false alarms something is wrong with your system, or
your residents - and a $500 charge for the false alarms would be much
better spent fixing the system.


You are correct. A correctly installed system shouldn't give false
alarms. In my first home, it never happened for as long as I lived
there (years). In my 2nd home, it did give false alarms for the first
month till I had it adjusted correctly. Hasn't happened since for
over a decade and counting. I've tripped it myself by accident so in
that case I just shut it off or reset it.

The one we had installed in the restaurant went off almost daily.
Fu__ing thing was LOUD too. Often the cops would be there to help me open.

"G. Morgan" wrote:

You'll get better answers in alt.security.alarms

its filled with professional installers.

If it's anything like alt.hvac then it's filled with professional
assholes who **** all over "hoe-moaners".

gonjah gonjah.net wrote:
On 4/6/2012 10:12 AM, Rebel1 wrote:
Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...der_1453732039


it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1



Sorry to read about your b/i. I know how it feels.

I don't think fake stickers are a bad idea at all.

A good insurance policy is a good idea too. If you have one that replaces
stolen items at present value even better. You have to do a cost benefit
analysis but for me having a good policy paid off well.

I had security doors installed. They really don't look that bad, or they
didn't on my old house. Some say they are a hazard because they can be
difficult to escape in case of a fire. It's something to consider.

http://www.fourseasonssunrooms.com/D...urity_door.jpg

That way the burglars can't walk right out the front door with your
stuff. They usually go with the path of least resistance. My neighbor got
a little upset when I put mine in but too bad. They don't cost that much
and he can buy his own if he doesn't like it.

I lived in a real high crime area (Abq NM) and after that we never got burgled again.

I like fake or real visible cameras. If they are real, you got video. You
also can see outside. I got some fake ones.

Greg

On 4/6/2012 6:42 PM, gregz wrote:
gonjahgonjah.net wrote:
On 4/6/2012 10:12 AM, Rebel1 wrote:
Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...der_1453732039
it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1


Sorry to read about your b/i. I know how it feels.

I don't think fake stickers are a bad idea at all.

A good insurance policy is a good idea too. If you have one that replaces
stolen items at present value even better. You have to do a cost benefit
analysis but for me having a good policy paid off well.

I had security doors installed. They really don't look that bad, or they
didn't on my old house. Some say they are a hazard because they can be
difficult to escape in case of a fire. It's something to consider.

http://www.fourseasonssunrooms.com/D...urity_door.jpg

That way the burglars can't walk right out the front door with your
stuff. They usually go with the path of least resistance. My neighbor got
a little upset when I put mine in but too bad. They don't cost that much
and he can buy his own if he doesn't like it.

I lived in a real high crime area (Abq NM) and after that we never got burgled again.
I like fake or real visible cameras. If they are real, you got video. You
also can see outside. I got some fake ones.

Greg

When I lived in Abq. I had some problems with a wacko neighbor. A
exterior camera would have been nice but lighting, cost and maintenance
kept me from doing it. Didn't think about a fake one.

Anymore you gotta be real careful. Big Brother might be watching
anywhere.

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 15:53:26 -0500, gonjah gonjah.net wrote:

On 4/6/2012 3:48 PM, Doug wrote:
On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 15:49:46 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 12:41:56 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 4/6/2012 12:31 PM, Jim Yanik wrote:
wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).
Noisy alarms will likely anger neighbors when they eventually false.
False alarms also desensitize neighbors who then ignore them,or even file
complaints.
2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)
Could you get home in time to DO anything?
If you call the police to respond,you still have the problem of false
alarms.
3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.
don't forget reinforced door jambs.
often,burglars just use a crowbar to force open the door frame.
a deadbolt is only as good as the door frame it slides into.
First thing I did when I moved into my apartment was to install a big metal
plate for the deadbolt,and long bolts into the stud beneath the flimsy trim
piece of the frame. you can buy them at home improvement stores. if the
door is wood,that is also a vulnerability,but they make reinforcing plates
for them too. a wood door can split when hit hard,or pried upon with a
crowbar.
4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.
it's pretty rare that a burglar will cut power/phone lines.
5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
or on a timer.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
or dark window tint.lets light in,but makes it too hard to see inside.

In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
GOOD idea.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
GOOD idea. I never liked having a window right next to a door.

6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.
Burglars are probably used to those.spot them a mile away.
After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1



the best defense is to make it too hard for them to get in,and to make them
think someone is home so they don't try to get in.

a major problem with an alarm is "who is going to respond to it?"
Do you expect your neighbors to come over and check it out?
there are monitored alarm systems that cost you a yearly subscription.
I've heard not-good things about ADT.(I have no financial interest in any
alarm company.)


you can get security cams that record to a (hidden)PC,and that you can even
check your house out from online. they are good to see if you have outdoor
prowlers,maybe peeking in windows to see if anyone's home. police have
caught burglars who were recorded on security cams.

Everybody in my neighborhood has alarms and everybody ignores it when a
neighbor's alarm goes off as 99% are false alarms. If your alarm goes
directly to the police you risk a fine for a 2nd false alarm and a third
will cost you more. Neighbor was complaining that it cost her $500 last
year.
If you have false alarms something is wrong with your system, or
your residents - and a $500 charge for the false alarms would be much
better spent fixing the system.


You are correct. A correctly installed system shouldn't give false
alarms. In my first home, it never happened for as long as I lived
there (years). In my 2nd home, it did give false alarms for the first
month till I had it adjusted correctly. Hasn't happened since for
over a decade and counting. I've tripped it myself by accident so in
that case I just shut it off or reset it.

The one we had installed in the restaurant went off almost daily.
Fu__ing thing was LOUD too. Often the cops would be there to help me open.
Something DEFINITELY wrong then.
At my brother's shop he has has 2 false alarms. One was when a jack
handle fell on the floor and triggered a glass break alarm, and the
other was after the overhead door company seviced the roll-up door -
and we had a REAL strong noth wind that pushed the top panel of the
door in JUST enough to trigger the door micro-switch (magnetic reed
switch). I re-adjusted the door and it has never happened again -
that's in 16 years.

On 4/6/2012 7:51 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 15:53:26 -0500, gonjahgonjah.net wrote:

On 4/6/2012 3:48 PM, Doug wrote:
On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 15:49:46 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 12:41:56 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 4/6/2012 12:31 PM, Jim Yanik wrote:
wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).
Noisy alarms will likely anger neighbors when they eventually false.
False alarms also desensitize neighbors who then ignore them,or even file
complaints.
2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)
Could you get home in time to DO anything?
If you call the police to respond,you still have the problem of false
alarms.
3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.
don't forget reinforced door jambs.
often,burglars just use a crowbar to force open the door frame.
a deadbolt is only as good as the door frame it slides into.
First thing I did when I moved into my apartment was to install a big metal
plate for the deadbolt,and long bolts into the stud beneath the flimsy trim
piece of the frame. you can buy them at home improvement stores. if the
door is wood,that is also a vulnerability,but they make reinforcing plates
for them too. a wood door can split when hit hard,or pried upon with a
crowbar.
4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.
it's pretty rare that a burglar will cut power/phone lines.
5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
or on a timer.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
or dark window tint.lets light in,but makes it too hard to see inside.

In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
GOOD idea.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
GOOD idea. I never liked having a window right next to a door.

6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.
Burglars are probably used to those.spot them a mile away.
After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1



the best defense is to make it too hard for them to get in,and to make them
think someone is home so they don't try to get in.

a major problem with an alarm is "who is going to respond to it?"
Do you expect your neighbors to come over and check it out?
there are monitored alarm systems that cost you a yearly subscription.
I've heard not-good things about ADT.(I have no financial interest in any
alarm company.)


you can get security cams that record to a (hidden)PC,and that you can even
check your house out from online. they are good to see if you have outdoor
prowlers,maybe peeking in windows to see if anyone's home. police have
caught burglars who were recorded on security cams.

Everybody in my neighborhood has alarms and everybody ignores it when a
neighbor's alarm goes off as 99% are false alarms. If your alarm goes
directly to the police you risk a fine for a 2nd false alarm and a third
will cost you more. Neighbor was complaining that it cost her $500 last
year.
If you have false alarms something is wrong with your system, or
your residents - and a $500 charge for the false alarms would be much
better spent fixing the system.

You are correct. A correctly installed system shouldn't give false
alarms. In my first home, it never happened for as long as I lived
there (years). In my 2nd home, it did give false alarms for the first
month till I had it adjusted correctly. Hasn't happened since for
over a decade and counting. I've tripped it myself by accident so in
that case I just shut it off or reset it.
The one we had installed in the restaurant went off almost daily.
Fu__ing thing was LOUD too. Often the cops would be there to help me open.
Something DEFINITELY wrong then.

Ya think?

It would really **** me off when it went off in the middle of the night
and I was the closest manger so I always got the call.

It was one of those tied into the flashing fire lights. Sort of like a
scene out of the movie Aliens. A great way to start the pre-dawn day.
When you're hung-over even better.

I think we never got it fixed for numerous reasons. It's been almost 20
years ago.

At my brother's shop he has has 2 false alarms. One was when a jack
handle fell on the floor and triggered a glass break alarm, and the
other was after the overhead door company seviced the roll-up door -
and we had a REAL strong noth wind that pushed the top panel of the
door in JUST enough to trigger the door micro-switch (magnetic reed
switch). I re-adjusted the door and it has never happened again -
that's in 16 years.

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 20:05:38 -0500, gonjah gonjah.net wrote:

On 4/6/2012 7:51 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 15:53:26 -0500, gonjahgonjah.net wrote:

On 4/6/2012 3:48 PM, Doug wrote:
On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 15:49:46 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 12:41:56 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 4/6/2012 12:31 PM, Jim Yanik wrote:
wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).
Noisy alarms will likely anger neighbors when they eventually false.
False alarms also desensitize neighbors who then ignore them,or even file
complaints.
2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)
Could you get home in time to DO anything?
If you call the police to respond,you still have the problem of false
alarms.
3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.
don't forget reinforced door jambs.
often,burglars just use a crowbar to force open the door frame.
a deadbolt is only as good as the door frame it slides into.
First thing I did when I moved into my apartment was to install a big metal
plate for the deadbolt,and long bolts into the stud beneath the flimsy trim
piece of the frame. you can buy them at home improvement stores. if the
door is wood,that is also a vulnerability,but they make reinforcing plates
for them too. a wood door can split when hit hard,or pried upon with a
crowbar.
4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.
it's pretty rare that a burglar will cut power/phone lines.
5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
or on a timer.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
or dark window tint.lets light in,but makes it too hard to see inside.

In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
GOOD idea.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
GOOD idea. I never liked having a window right next to a door.

6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.
Burglars are probably used to those.spot them a mile away.
After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1



the best defense is to make it too hard for them to get in,and to make them
think someone is home so they don't try to get in.

a major problem with an alarm is "who is going to respond to it?"
Do you expect your neighbors to come over and check it out?
there are monitored alarm systems that cost you a yearly subscription.
I've heard not-good things about ADT.(I have no financial interest in any
alarm company.)


you can get security cams that record to a (hidden)PC,and that you can even
check your house out from online. they are good to see if you have outdoor
prowlers,maybe peeking in windows to see if anyone's home. police have
caught burglars who were recorded on security cams.

Everybody in my neighborhood has alarms and everybody ignores it when a
neighbor's alarm goes off as 99% are false alarms. If your alarm goes
directly to the police you risk a fine for a 2nd false alarm and a third
will cost you more. Neighbor was complaining that it cost her $500 last
year.
If you have false alarms something is wrong with your system, or
your residents - and a $500 charge for the false alarms would be much
better spent fixing the system.

You are correct. A correctly installed system shouldn't give false
alarms. In my first home, it never happened for as long as I lived
there (years). In my 2nd home, it did give false alarms for the first
month till I had it adjusted correctly. Hasn't happened since for
over a decade and counting. I've tripped it myself by accident so in
that case I just shut it off or reset it.
The one we had installed in the restaurant went off almost daily.
Fu__ing thing was LOUD too. Often the cops would be there to help me open.
Something DEFINITELY wrong then.

Ya think?

It would really **** me off when it went off in the middle of the night
and I was the closest manger so I always got the call.

It was one of those tied into the flashing fire lights. Sort of like a
scene out of the movie Aliens. A great way to start the pre-dawn day.
When you're hung-over even better.

I think we never got it fixed for numerous reasons. It's been almost 20
years ago.

At my brother's shop he has has 2 false alarms. One was when a jack
handle fell on the floor and triggered a glass break alarm, and the
other was after the overhead door company seviced the roll-up door -
and we had a REAL strong noth wind that pushed the top panel of the
door in JUST enough to trigger the door micro-switch (magnetic reed
switch). I re-adjusted the door and it has never happened again -
that's in 16 years.


The church I used to belong to decided it was a good idea to install
an alarm system. The doors were open all day with the alarm shut off -
so anyone could walk in and walk out with anything they wanted - but
they had to have an alarm for when the doors were locked.

Couldn't get people with keys trained to shut the bloody thing off
when entering after hours - and being I lived only 2 blocks away, I
was the one that had to respond to the alarm when it went off.

The other problem was getting the last person to leave to lock ALL the
doors. Several times the wind caused an unlocked door to open,
tripping the alarm in the middle of a nasty winter storm at 2am.

When nothing changed after 2 years I told them they had to find
someone else to wake up in the middle of the night.

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 11:12:43 -0400, Rebel1
wrote:


The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one that
lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free to
strike elsewhere).

Someone here uses the tag line, "when seconds count, the police are
only minutes away.

You want them away from the house and afraid to even try an actual
break-in. Lights on motion detectors are the first line of defense.
Next is an intrusion alarm for the doors and windows. That too,
should turn on some light and sound an alarm.



2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend myself
with a gun.

Really? What if you come in second place in the contest? I'm
prepared to defend my self and family, but my first preference is to
avoid the confrontation. I don't practice with a gun every day so
reality is, for safety, I'd rather keep it at the ready, but never
used.






3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors, and
high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that there
is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.


No extremes, but good locks are a start. Simple things like drilling
through the window frame and inserting a nail helps keep them from
being pried.



Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.

Yes


2. Radio or TV on all the time.


5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.

They are now considered a code violation in many places. One morning
many years ago though, I found my back door window broken, but no
entry thanks to a double key lock.


6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

Real ones are better

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 16:14:48 -0400, wrote:

On 06 Apr 2012 19:20:01 GMT, Steve wrote:

Rebel1 wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).

2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)

3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.

4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1



Having been in the security system business for the last 33 years I can
give you several caveats:

1 A professional thief will get what he wants from your home with no real
problems. The good news is it has to something very valuable for them to
waste their time on. An alarm system will make them think long and hard
before deciding to either attempt your place or the one done the street
with no alarm system.

2 The cops take forever to respond in most alarm system activations. So
my suggestion is the install an indoor siren. If you make the interior
loud enough the amateurs burgulars will leave quickly.

3 Modern systems have battery backup that should be good for at least 72
hours without AC power.

4 Get a system that is centrally monitored. You will have the peace of
mind that as soon as the system activates someone will be on duty to call
the police. In the case of a false alarm while you are home, you can call
them and give them your abort code which will stop them from dispatching
the police or fire dept. I would add a cellular backup transmitter so
that if the thieves cut the phone lines to your house, the signal will be
sent to the central station anyway and the authorities will be
dispatched.

5 Add at least 1 smoke detector to the system so if your home catches
fire while you are away at least the fire dept. will respond, hopefully
in time to prevent a total loss.

6 Connect all doors and operable windows to the system with magnetic
sensors. I would also tamper the covers on the electrical and telephone
panels so that the alarm would activate as soon as someone attempted to
cut the power or phone lines.

7 Infrared motion detectors are a second line of defense in case the
intruder gets past the door or window sensors somehow. If you have pets
get a "dual-tech" style detector that is more resistant to false alarms
from pets.

That pretty much covers the basics. I would contact a licensed alarm
contractor to give you an estimate. At that point you can decide if you
want to attempt the job yourself or let someone else do it. Make sure if
you hire someone that they are bonded and have undergone a background
check.

Hope this helps.
Steve
You forgot the "dual mode" glass breakage detectors. Trigger the
alarm BEFORE they actually get inside if possible.


Trying to recall the conversation I had about 14 years ago, I think
what you said has to do with the type of windows. I admit tho, you
are making me struggle to remember what I was told back then.

In my old house I think I had what you mentioned on my windows and in
one case, I believe it saved my house from a break in. I was very
glad I had an alarm.

wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

If you have false alarms something is wrong with your system, or
your residents - and a $500 charge for the false alarms would be much
better spent fixing the system.

Agreed. There are a lot of ways to help prevent falsing and I'd investigate
those before deciding I didn't want the protection of an alarm just because
of the false triggers. Sometimes it means switching to different kinds of
sensors.

About 20 years ago when I installed my systems (there are three - two have
to agree to send an alarm to the central station) I had no end of trouble
with glass-break detectors going off whenever there was a thunderstorm so I
removed them all. I used thin metal foil varnished onto the window (very
old school!) to replace the glassbreaks on the rear basement windows, a
favorite entry point for thieves. I covered the glass top half of the
basement door (people were SO trusting 80 years ago) with thick bullet-proof
Lexan I got when a local plastics place went under and had a fire sale.

I understand glass-break detectors have gotten much, much better and I may
reconsider them, but they were almost guaranteed to false with enough
thunder present. It may still be a problem because whenever there's a loud
enough thunderclap, four or five car alarms start sounding.

Most insurers will give you a discount for a central station alarm. If you
have a claims history for burglary, they may DEMAND it.

--
Bobby G.

"Doug" wrote in message

If you have false alarms something is wrong with your system, or
your residents - and a $500 charge for the false alarms would be much
better spent fixing the system.

You are correct. A correctly installed system shouldn't give false
alarms. In my first home, it never happened for as long as I lived
there (years). In my 2nd home, it did give false alarms for the first
month till I had it adjusted correctly. Hasn't happened since for
over a decade and counting. I've tripped it myself by accident so in
that case I just shut it off or reset it.

Often it's user error. Sometimes it's bad design. In either case, it's not
impossible to figure out what causes the falsing and to get rid of it.

--
Bobby G.

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
news:4a40d72f-8f94-4ef8-94ff-

stuff snipped

Thus, used the dead spaces under our cabinetry in bathroom and kitchen
and built fake back walls into several closets. I converted the
kickstep covers for the cabinetry to become removable. Each was held
in place with those "push to open" latches. Contents under cabinets
were those heavy coin collections etc, heavy, thin flat items, more
than 200 lb total. The spaces made by the fake back walls in the
closets were to enclose larger items, like sterlingware, special
jewelry, etc. and wife's collection of furs. NOBODY knew about the
false areas, except us.

Good ideas!

Then added a more conventional, and prominent, bolt down safe to occupy
anyone who wanted to hang around and get the lollipop out of it.

Great idea. You KNOW they are going to waste their time trying to open or
remove the safe. Every second you delay them with the decoy safe means it's
one less second they can spend looking for the real treasure.

--
Bobby G.

"Home Guy" wrote in message ...

stuff snipped

In the 12 years that I've had the alarm at the office, there hasn't ever
been a break-in, but there have been false-alarms caused by the motion
sensors (this seemed to happen during very cold winter nights when the
furnace would kick on and blow warm air over the windows, possibly
causing the blinds to move around).

Had a similar experience on the day I was to do a very big briefing. In
this case, I had a dark suit in a plastic bag that was hanging over a floor
vent in front of an open window. The suit moved slightly from the hot air
coming out of the vent an triggered the alarm. Now, I've designed the
system so that TWO independent motion sensors have to detect motion to "put
the call through" to the monitoring station. My panel (brain fart, can't
remember the maker) interfaces with X-10, so I can poll those detectors to
see if more than one has fired.

Door sensors are highly reliable and almost never give false alarms.

I try to rely on them more than glass breaks, motion sensors or ultrasonic
detectors. The problem is that burglars entering through the windows only
open the door on their way out. Too late AFAIAC.

A burglar would also hear the tone upon entering the premises, and he
might decide to just turn around and leave because he knows that a
response will happen within minutes.

That's imputing more intelligence to your basic junkie burglar than I would.
The tone should be loud for the owner, because forgetting to turn the system
off is a well-known false alarm producer.

For a home situation, it's very ergonomic to set up a home PC to perform
the video recording from the camera. As long as the PC isin't stolen,
you'll have a video record of who broke into your home (or who rang your
door bell, etc).

I have a number of CCTV video recorders distributed throughout the house and
an old CCTV VCR right near the front door so that a thief can steal it,
thinking he's taken away any record of his being there. Sort of like the
lollipop in the safe idea. (-:

I'm probably going to buy something called a "trail-cam". It's a camera
normally used by hunters and biologists that want to record pictures of
animals in remote locations. These cameras have motion detectors and
have very good night-vision capability, and have batteries that can last
up to a year, and can take thousands of hi-rez pictures over that time.

Don't believe the battery life claims. I have one and it's got to be
checked every few weeks. Even with 8 AA's powering it, it chews through
batteries. They're too damn easy to steal, though.

Most burglars will pound on your door or ring your doorbell for quite some
time (usually with some BS story to tell you if you answer the door) to
determine that you're not home. That's the moment to concentrate on. You
need to make them fear that you ARE home but that you just don't want to
talk to them. At one point I was considering hooking up an old telephone
answering machine to respond to any intercom press when we were away with
"No thank you, we're not interested!" That would probably neutralize half
the potential burglary threats if not more.

--
Bobby G.

"George" wrote in message
...
On 4/6/2012 1:47 PM, Home Guy wrote:

You go on and on ad naseum how perfect everything is in Canada. So why
would you need an alarm system in Canada?

American infiltrators, of course! (-;

--
Bobby G.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...


Rebel1 wrote:
Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

Hi,
How about a good trained guard dog. No matter how good security shield
you deploy, bad guys are always one step ahead of you. I have a live-in
domestic helper and a professionally trained guard dog. Alarm system
is very seldom armed.

They're useful to people who are mostly home, but for the OP, who says he's
gone for weeks at a time, I don't think it will help much. He'll either
have to board the dog or depend on neighbors to feed and care for him. That
opens up several cans of worms at once.

--
Bobby G.