On 4/6/2012 3:48 PM, Doug wrote:
On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 15:49:46 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 06 Apr 2012 12:41:56 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 4/6/2012 12:31 PM, Jim Yanik wrote:
wrote in
:

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in
my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The
street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes,
tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):
1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one
that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free
to strike elsewhere).
Noisy alarms will likely anger neighbors when they eventually false.
False alarms also desensitize neighbors who then ignore them,or even file
complaints.
2. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend
myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door
neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three
false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that
will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is
used only for calls that I originate.)
Could you get home in time to DO anything?
If you call the police to respond,you still have the problem of false
alarms.
3. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors,
and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified,
rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that
there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and
damaging) effort to enter.
don't forget reinforced door jambs.
often,burglars just use a crowbar to force open the door frame.
a deadbolt is only as good as the door frame it slides into.
First thing I did when I moved into my apartment was to install a big metal
plate for the deadbolt,and long bolts into the stud beneath the flimsy trim
piece of the frame. you can buy them at home improvement stores. if the
door is wood,that is also a vulnerability,but they make reinforcing plates
for them too. a wood door can split when hit hard,or pried upon with a
crowbar.
4. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed
in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy
pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter.
The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and
thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable
company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.
it's pretty rare that a burglar will cut power/phone lines.
5. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible
presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

1. Lights on timers.
2. Radio or TV on all the time.
or on a timer.
3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present.
or dark window tint.lets light in,but makes it too hard to see inside.

In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major
highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that
the house is empty also.
4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
GOOD idea.
5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't
break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
GOOD idea. I never liked having a window right next to a door.

6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.
Burglars are probably used to those.spot them a mile away.
After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called
Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of
Contents link,

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Home...de/dp/14537320
39/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333721382&s r=1-14#reader_1453
732039

it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have
not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the
systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published
(so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations.
The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out
vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1



the best defense is to make it too hard for them to get in,and to make them
think someone is home so they don't try to get in.

a major problem with an alarm is "who is going to respond to it?"
Do you expect your neighbors to come over and check it out?
there are monitored alarm systems that cost you a yearly subscription.
I've heard not-good things about ADT.(I have no financial interest in any
alarm company.)


you can get security cams that record to a (hidden)PC,and that you can even
check your house out from online. they are good to see if you have outdoor
prowlers,maybe peeking in windows to see if anyone's home. police have
caught burglars who were recorded on security cams.

Everybody in my neighborhood has alarms and everybody ignores it when a
neighbor's alarm goes off as 99% are false alarms. If your alarm goes
directly to the police you risk a fine for a 2nd false alarm and a third
will cost you more. Neighbor was complaining that it cost her $500 last
year.
If you have false alarms something is wrong with your system, or
your residents - and a $500 charge for the false alarms would be much
better spent fixing the system.


You are correct. A correctly installed system shouldn't give false
alarms. In my first home, it never happened for as long as I lived
there (years). In my 2nd home, it did give false alarms for the first
month till I had it adjusted correctly. Hasn't happened since for
over a decade and counting. I've tripped it myself by accident so in
that case I just shut it off or reset it.

The one we had installed in the restaurant went off almost daily.
Fu__ing thing was LOUD too. Often the cops would be there to help me open.