I have a 14-year-old Kenmore 106.68862891 top freezer refrigerator, with
no ice maker. While there is never visible ice on the walls, floor or
ceiling of the freezer, ice forms under the floor of the freezer and
then drips into the frig section below, presumable during a defrost cycle.

Here's what the freezer looks like with the floor removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

A closer view of the floor and rear wall:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

With the freezer rear wall removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

There are three large rectangular openings at the rear of the floor. The
two outer ones open directly into the refrig section; that's how the
water drains from the freezer into the frig section.

Note in the shiny aluminum tray, just behind the right rectangular
opening, there is a black hole that appears to be a drainage hole, but
if I prod into it with a small screwdriver, I can't find a clear opening
to a drainage tube that would lead to this evaporator tray at the bottom
of the refrig:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

I can't trace the tube upwards from what you see because it enters the
body of the refrig and is concealed by the sheet metal, with the rear
sheet metal riveted in place.)

From marks on the tray, it once captured water. Now, it is perfectly dry.

Presumably the tube from the freezer to the evaporator tray is clogged,
maybe due to 14 years of dust. I've tried heating with with a hair dryer
on medium, and compressed air from a WD-40 size can of office duster.

Any other theories, or ideas for opening the drainage tube?

Thanks,

R1

On Apr 4, 4:37*pm, Rebel1 wrote:
I have a 14-year-old Kenmore 106.68862891 top freezer refrigerator, with
no ice maker. While there is never visible ice on the walls, floor or
ceiling of the freezer, ice forms under the floor of the freezer and
then drips into the frig section below, presumable during a defrost cycle..

Here's what the freezer looks like with the floor removed:http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

A closer view of the floor and rear wall:http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

With the freezer rear wall removed:http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

There are three large rectangular openings at the rear of the floor. The
two outer ones open directly into the refrig section; that's how the
water drains from the freezer into the frig section.

Note in the shiny aluminum tray, just behind the right rectangular
opening, there is a black hole that appears to be a drainage hole, but
if I prod into it with a small screwdriver, I can't find a clear opening
to a drainage tube that would lead to this evaporator tray at the bottom
of the refrig:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

I can't trace the tube upwards from what you see because it enters the
body of the refrig and is concealed by the sheet metal, with the rear
sheet metal riveted in place.)

*From marks on the tray, it once captured water. Now, it is perfectly dry.

Presumably the tube from the freezer to the evaporator tray is clogged,
maybe due to 14 years of dust. I've tried heating with with a hair dryer
on medium, and compressed air from a WD-40 size can of office duster.

Any other theories, or ideas for opening the drainage tube?

Thanks,

R1

I once had a fridge where the drain tube would get clogged with ice
every couple of years. Pouring hot water down the tube cleared it for
a long time.

I never figured out what conditions caused it to freeze...once every
couple of years wasn't enough occurrences to track anything.

The problem went to the curb when I bought a fridge with a freezer on
the bottom.

The drain is pretty obvious to me, just right of center. I've cleared these
with a turkey baster, and hot water. Length of soft wire, to push the crud
down and out. Aluminum, or thin copper works well.

Alternately, you can also use a shop vac from the bottom end of the hose.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Rebel1" wrote in message
...
I have a 14-year-old Kenmore 106.68862891 top freezer refrigerator, with
no ice maker. While there is never visible ice on the walls, floor or
ceiling of the freezer, ice forms under the floor of the freezer and
then drips into the frig section below, presumable during a defrost cycle.

Here's what the freezer looks like with the floor removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

A closer view of the floor and rear wall:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

With the freezer rear wall removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

There are three large rectangular openings at the rear of the floor. The
two outer ones open directly into the refrig section; that's how the
water drains from the freezer into the frig section.

Note in the shiny aluminum tray, just behind the right rectangular
opening, there is a black hole that appears to be a drainage hole, but
if I prod into it with a small screwdriver, I can't find a clear opening
to a drainage tube that would lead to this evaporator tray at the bottom
of the refrig:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

I can't trace the tube upwards from what you see because it enters the
body of the refrig and is concealed by the sheet metal, with the rear
sheet metal riveted in place.)

From marks on the tray, it once captured water. Now, it is perfectly dry.

Presumably the tube from the freezer to the evaporator tray is clogged,
maybe due to 14 years of dust. I've tried heating with with a hair dryer
on medium, and compressed air from a WD-40 size can of office duster.

Any other theories, or ideas for opening the drainage tube?

Thanks,

R1

Two excellent ideas I'll try tomorrow. Thanks.

R1


On 4/4/2012 5:05 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The drain is pretty obvious to me, just right of center. I've cleared these
with a turkey baster, and hot water. Length of soft wire, to push the crud
down and out. Aluminum, or thin copper works well.

Alternately, you can also use a shop vac from the bottom end of the hose.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...
I have a 14-year-old Kenmore 106.68862891 top freezer refrigerator, with
no ice maker. While there is never visible ice on the walls, floor or
ceiling of the freezer, ice forms under the floor of the freezer and
then drips into the frig section below, presumable during a defrost cycle.

Here's what the freezer looks like with the floor removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

A closer view of the floor and rear wall:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

With the freezer rear wall removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

There are three large rectangular openings at the rear of the floor. The
two outer ones open directly into the refrig section; that's how the
water drains from the freezer into the frig section.

Note in the shiny aluminum tray, just behind the right rectangular
opening, there is a black hole that appears to be a drainage hole, but
if I prod into it with a small screwdriver, I can't find a clear opening
to a drainage tube that would lead to this evaporator tray at the bottom
of the refrig:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

I can't trace the tube upwards from what you see because it enters the
body of the refrig and is concealed by the sheet metal, with the rear
sheet metal riveted in place.)

From marks on the tray, it once captured water. Now, it is perfectly dry.

Presumably the tube from the freezer to the evaporator tray is clogged,
maybe due to 14 years of dust. I've tried heating with with a hair dryer
on medium, and compressed air from a WD-40 size can of office duster.

Any other theories, or ideas for opening the drainage tube?

Thanks,

R1

On Apr 4, 3:37*pm, Rebel1 wrote:
I have a 14-year-old Kenmore 106.68862891 top freezer refrigerator, with
no ice maker. While there is never visible ice on the walls, floor or
ceiling of the freezer, ice forms under the floor of the freezer and
then drips into the frig section below, presumable during a defrost cycle..

Here's what the freezer looks like with the floor removed:http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

A closer view of the floor and rear wall:http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

With the freezer rear wall removed:http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

There are three large rectangular openings at the rear of the floor. The
two outer ones open directly into the refrig section; that's how the
water drains from the freezer into the frig section.

Note in the shiny aluminum tray, just behind the right rectangular
opening, there is a black hole that appears to be a drainage hole, but
if I prod into it with a small screwdriver, I can't find a clear opening
to a drainage tube that would lead to this evaporator tray at the bottom
of the refrig:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

I can't trace the tube upwards from what you see because it enters the
body of the refrig and is concealed by the sheet metal, with the rear
sheet metal riveted in place.)

*From marks on the tray, it once captured water. Now, it is perfectly dry.

Presumably the tube from the freezer to the evaporator tray is clogged,
maybe due to 14 years of dust. I've tried heating with with a hair dryer
on medium, and compressed air from a WD-40 size can of office duster.

Any other theories, or ideas for opening the drainage tube?

Thanks,

R1

A hand-held bucycle pump connected to the tube should be able to
generate enough pressure to blow the tube open. Once it is open, I
would try to flush it further using water blown thru the tube.

On 2012-04-04, DerbyDad03 wrote:

then drips into the frig section below, presumable during a defrost cycle.

Sounds like you already know how the defrost cycle works. So, if the
water is draining into the fridge compartment and not to the
evaporation pan under the fridge, I'd say you have a blocked or
disconnected drain line. If blocked, the water has nowhere else to
go. If disconnected, the water is missing the drain line and going
into the fridge compartment.

Rental places have an electrician's tool called a "fish tape". It's a
long thin piece of spring still that is stiff enough to be pushed
through pipe, conduit, etc, yet flexible enough to bend around corners.
It's made for pushing and pulling wiring and comes in different sizes.
A good option if you don't want to buy a new wire.

nb

--
vi --the heart of evil!

If that works, remit $74.95 for online consultation.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Rebel1" wrote in message
...
Two excellent ideas I'll try tomorrow. Thanks.

R1


On 4/4/2012 5:05 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The drain is pretty obvious to me, just right of center. I've cleared
these
with a turkey baster, and hot water. Length of soft wire, to push the crud
down and out. Aluminum, or thin copper works well.

Alternately, you can also use a shop vac from the bottom end of the hose.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...
I have a 14-year-old Kenmore 106.68862891 top freezer refrigerator, with
no ice maker. While there is never visible ice on the walls, floor or
ceiling of the freezer, ice forms under the floor of the freezer and
then drips into the frig section below, presumable during a defrost cycle.

Here's what the freezer looks like with the floor removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

A closer view of the floor and rear wall:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

With the freezer rear wall removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

There are three large rectangular openings at the rear of the floor. The
two outer ones open directly into the refrig section; that's how the
water drains from the freezer into the frig section.

Note in the shiny aluminum tray, just behind the right rectangular
opening, there is a black hole that appears to be a drainage hole, but
if I prod into it with a small screwdriver, I can't find a clear opening
to a drainage tube that would lead to this evaporator tray at the bottom
of the refrig:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

I can't trace the tube upwards from what you see because it enters the
body of the refrig and is concealed by the sheet metal, with the rear
sheet metal riveted in place.)

From marks on the tray, it once captured water. Now, it is perfectly
dry.

Presumably the tube from the freezer to the evaporator tray is clogged,
maybe due to 14 years of dust. I've tried heating with with a hair dryer
on medium, and compressed air from a WD-40 size can of office duster.

Any other theories, or ideas for opening the drainage tube?

Thanks,

R1

Way overkill, for this. Besides, the drain hole is about 1/4 inch diameter,
and the fish tape won't go in.

I'd try turkey baster and hot water, first. Stuff the nozzle of the turkey
baster in the drain hole as best you can and give it a good honk of hot
water. Then go around back, and see if it came through. Repeat.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"notbob" wrote in message
...

Rental places have an electrician's tool called a "fish tape". It's a
long thin piece of spring still that is stiff enough to be pushed
through pipe, conduit, etc, yet flexible enough to bend around corners.
It's made for pushing and pulling wiring and comes in different sizes.
A good option if you don't want to buy a new wire.

nb

--
vi --the heart of evil!

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:f5877477-5154-40ec-8fa1-
On Apr 4, 4:37 pm, Rebel1 wrote:

stuff snipped

Presumably the tube from the freezer to the evaporator tray is clogged,
maybe due to 14 years of dust. I've tried heating with with a hair dryer
on medium, and compressed air from a WD-40 size can of office duster.

Any other theories, or ideas for opening the drainage tube?

I once had a fridge where the drain tube would get clogged with ice
every couple of years. Pouring hot water down the tube cleared it for
a long time.

In my experience it airborne dust that gets into the drain line that causes
a clot that then cause the line to freeze.

I never figured out what conditions caused it to freeze...once every
couple of years wasn't enough occurrences to track anything.

That sounds like the slow build-up of crud in the lines. Unfiltered room
air circulates over the coils. In time, dust builds ups. Every time I've
had to blow out the drain line with compressed air, there's been a big clot
of black gunk expelled. Pets increase the possibility of a clog.

The problem went to the curb when I bought a fridge with a freezer on the
bottom.

For now. I suspect you'll find that a top freezer's drain line is a heck of
a lot easier to access than one on the bottom of the unit. You may have
gotten some relief just because the drain line is much shorter and hopefully
much bigger than the older unit. The problem could actually get worse
because the closer to the floor, the more dust. That's based on years of
dealing with floor mounted PC's. They get incredibly dirty compared to a
desk-mounted unit. Especially when pets are around.

--
Bobby G.

SM,

I boiled a cup of water and used an ear syringe to squirt it into the
drain hole. After a couple of tries, the drain opened and the water
flowed right through to the evaporator tray at the bottom. I then took
about 8" of #12 electrical wire and poked it into the drain tube.
Absolutely no resistance, while previously I couldn't poke anything a
mere 1/8" into the drain.

Many thanks.

R1

On 4/4/2012 5:05 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The drain is pretty obvious to me, just right of center. I've cleared these
with a turkey baster, and hot water. Length of soft wire, to push the crud
down and out. Aluminum, or thin copper works well.

Alternately, you can also use a shop vac from the bottom end of the hose.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...
I have a 14-year-old Kenmore 106.68862891 top freezer refrigerator, with
no ice maker. While there is never visible ice on the walls, floor or
ceiling of the freezer, ice forms under the floor of the freezer and
then drips into the frig section below, presumable during a defrost cycle.

Here's what the freezer looks like with the floor removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

A closer view of the floor and rear wall:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

With the freezer rear wall removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

There are three large rectangular openings at the rear of the floor. The
two outer ones open directly into the refrig section; that's how the
water drains from the freezer into the frig section.

Note in the shiny aluminum tray, just behind the right rectangular
opening, there is a black hole that appears to be a drainage hole, but
if I prod into it with a small screwdriver, I can't find a clear opening
to a drainage tube that would lead to this evaporator tray at the bottom
of the refrig:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

I can't trace the tube upwards from what you see because it enters the
body of the refrig and is concealed by the sheet metal, with the rear
sheet metal riveted in place.)

From marks on the tray, it once captured water. Now, it is perfectly dry.

Presumably the tube from the freezer to the evaporator tray is clogged,
maybe due to 14 years of dust. I've tried heating with with a hair dryer
on medium, and compressed air from a WD-40 size can of office duster.

Any other theories, or ideas for opening the drainage tube?

Thanks,

R1

On Wed, 04 Apr 2012 16:37:52 -0400, Rebel1
wrote:

I have a 14-year-old Kenmore 106.68862891 top freezer refrigerator, with
no ice maker. While there is never visible ice on the walls, floor or
ceiling of the freezer, ice forms under the floor of the freezer and
then drips into the frig section below, presumable during a defrost cycle.

Here's what the freezer looks like with the floor removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

A closer view of the floor and rear wall:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

With the freezer rear wall removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

There are three large rectangular openings at the rear of the floor. The
two outer ones open directly into the refrig section; that's how the
water drains from the freezer into the frig section.

Note in the shiny aluminum tray, just behind the right rectangular
opening, there is a black hole that appears to be a drainage hole, but
if I prod into it with a small screwdriver, I can't find a clear opening
to a drainage tube that would lead to this evaporator tray at the bottom
of the refrig:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9027891...n/photostream/

I can't trace the tube upwards from what you see because it enters the
body of the refrig and is concealed by the sheet metal, with the rear
sheet metal riveted in place.)

From marks on the tray, it once captured water. Now, it is perfectly dry.

Presumably the tube from the freezer to the evaporator tray is clogged,
maybe due to 14 years of dust. I've tried heating with with a hair dryer
on medium, and compressed air from a WD-40 size can of office duster.

Any other theories, or ideas for opening the drainage tube?

Thanks,

R1



Yes, unplug the refrig for a couple of hours to let it thaw. Then
plug it back in. You may have to do this perhaps once a year. I do
have to warn you that a 14 year old refrig is probably in it's senior
years.

Dear R1, sounds like you did fine. Wish I had more business, I'd offer you a
job. A capable gentleman such as yourself, well, it's like the old
expression. You can't find good help any more.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Rebel1" wrote in message
...
SM,

I boiled a cup of water and used an ear syringe to squirt it into the
drain hole. After a couple of tries, the drain opened and the water
flowed right through to the evaporator tray at the bottom. I then took
about 8" of #12 electrical wire and poked it into the drain tube.
Absolutely no resistance, while previously I couldn't poke anything a
mere 1/8" into the drain.

Many thanks.

R1

On 4/4/2012 5:05 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The drain is pretty obvious to me, just right of center. I've cleared
these
with a turkey baster, and hot water. Length of soft wire, to push the crud
down and out. Aluminum, or thin copper works well.

Alternately, you can also use a shop vac from the bottom end of the hose.

On Apr 4, 9:49*pm, "Robert Green" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

news:f5877477-5154-40ec-8fa1-
On Apr 4, 4:37 pm, Rebel1 wrote:

stuff snipped

Presumably the tube from the freezer to the evaporator tray is clogged,
maybe due to 14 years of dust. I've tried heating with with a hair dryer
on medium, and compressed air from a WD-40 size can of office duster.

Any other theories, or ideas for opening the drainage tube?

I once had a fridge where the drain tube would get clogged with ice
every couple of years. Pouring hot water down the tube cleared it for
a long time.

In my experience it airborne dust that gets into the drain line that causes
a clot that then cause the line to freeze.

I never figured out what conditions caused it to freeze...once every
couple of years wasn't enough occurrences to track anything.

That sounds like the slow build-up of crud in the lines. *Unfiltered room
air circulates over the coils. *In time, dust builds ups. *Every time I've
had to blow out the drain line with compressed air, there's been a big clot
of black gunk expelled. Pets increase the possibility of a clog.

The problem went to the curb when I bought a fridge with a freezer on the
bottom.

For now. *I suspect you'll find that a top freezer's drain line is a heck of
a lot easier to access than one on the bottom of the unit. *You may have
gotten some relief just because the drain line is much shorter and hopefully
much bigger than the older unit. The problem could actually get worse
because the closer to the floor, the more dust. *That's based on years of
dealing with floor mounted PC's. *They get incredibly dirty compared to a
desk-mounted unit. *Especially when pets are around.

--
Bobby G.

At least 6 years with no problems since I bought the bottom freezer
fridge.

2 dogs now...only had one when I had the problems with the old
refrigerator. Older cat who spends more time inside now than she used
to when I had the problems with the old refrigerator.

So even though my conditions seem to meet the worst of your criteria,
I have yet to have an issue with the freezer drain.

One factor to consider is that improvements may have been in the
overall design of the drain system, defrost cycle, etc. since the long-
ago purchase of my original refrigerator. The OP did say that his
refrigerator is a 14 year old Kenmore. My old unit was older than that
but it was a Kenmore also.

My brain's cramping as to the make of my current refrigerator, but I
can say for certain that it is *not* a Kenmore.

Maybe it's a Kenmore issue above and beyond anything else.

On Apr 5, 3:26*pm, "
wrote:
On Apr 5, 3:09*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Apr 5, 2:44*pm, "Jon Danniken"

wrote:
Doug wrote:

* I do have to warn you that a 14 year old refrig is probably in it's
senior
years.

With currently-manufactured models, I would tend to agree with you. *Older
models were built better, and last longer. *My 20+ year old Sears Coldspot
is still running as strong as the day it was new (save for the evap coil fan
which was replaced).

They don't make 'em like they used to.

Jon

"Older models were built better, and last longer..."

...but probably use a lot more electricity.

...but don't have many of the features available on newer models.

Drop your model number and electricity pricing into this calculator
and see how much you can save by upgrading...

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?...rig.calculator

I threw some numbers in there and it shows that I can replace a old
unit that costs $260/year to operate with one that costs $64/year.
Tha'ts almost a $1000 savings in 5 years. Even if the new one died
that soon, I probably saved enough to buy a new one - assuming I
actually *saved* the money. ;-)

I used that EPA calculator prior to replacing my fridge which
was 27 years old last year. *I forget exactly what the calculator
said, but it overstated how much energy the old one was
using by a significant amount. *I think it gave a number of
about $270. * It was about right for the energy usage of the new one,
$95. *I measured both the old and new with a
killawatt meter and the old was using about $180, the new
about $95.

My conclusion was that it's will take a long time with
energy savings to pay for a new fridge, but if you're
thinking of getting a new one or don't like the one you
have the energy savings sure can help.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's interesting, but not surprising.

Now, I'm not saying that a site that ends with .gov wouldn't be
completely forthright and honest, but I can certainly see them
building worst-case scenarios into the calculator. After all, they are
trying to sell energy-star rated appliances.

It's a 20 YO fridge, therefore the door gasket must be leaking. It's a
spare fridge, so its probably only storing a six pack of soda, a
bottle of really old deep frying oil, and a couple of D-cell
batteries. It probably hasn't been defrosted in 2 years, so the
freezer is a solid block of ice wrapped around a couple of blue ice
freezer packs.

Factor those items into the calculations and you'll have a pretty
inefficient unit.

On Thu, 5 Apr 2012 12:26:52 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Apr 5, 3:09*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Apr 5, 2:44*pm, "Jon Danniken"

wrote:
Doug wrote:

* I do have to warn you that a 14 year old refrig is probably in it's
senior
years.

With currently-manufactured models, I would tend to agree with you. *Older
models were built better, and last longer. *My 20+ year old Sears Coldspot
is still running as strong as the day it was new (save for the evap coil fan
which was replaced).

They don't make 'em like they used to.

Jon

"Older models were built better, and last longer..."

...but probably use a lot more electricity.

...but don't have many of the features available on newer models.

Drop your model number and electricity pricing into this calculator
and see how much you can save by upgrading...

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?...rig.calculator

I threw some numbers in there and it shows that I can replace a old
unit that costs $260/year to operate with one that costs $64/year.
Tha'ts almost a $1000 savings in 5 years. Even if the new one died
that soon, I probably saved enough to buy a new one - assuming I
actually *saved* the money. ;-)

I used that EPA calculator prior to replacing my fridge which
was 27 years old last year. I forget exactly what the calculator
said, but it overstated how much energy the old one was
using by a significant amount. I think it gave a number of
about $270. It was about right for the energy usage of the new one,
$95. I measured both the old and new with a
killawatt meter and the old was using about $180, the new
about $95.

My conclusion was that it's will take a long time with
energy savings to pay for a new fridge, but if you're
thinking of getting a new one or don't like the one you
have the energy savings sure can help.


Thanks for confirming what I suspected. I don't always believe these
so called calculators.

Maybe they are made by the refrig mfgrs g ???

You peeked? How'd you know?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:05730df8-94b1-4c29-a806-

It's a 20 YO fridge, therefore the door gasket must be leaking. It's a
spare fridge, so its probably only storing a six pack of soda, a
bottle of really old deep frying oil, and a couple of D-cell
batteries. It probably hasn't been defrosted in 2 years, so the
freezer is a solid block of ice wrapped around a couple of blue ice
freezer packs.

Factor those items into the calculations and you'll have a pretty
inefficient unit.

On 4/5/2012 3:09 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Apr 5, 2:44 pm, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:
Doug wrote:

I do have to warn you that a 14 year old refrig is probably in it's
senior
years.

With currently-manufactured models, I would tend to agree with you. Older
models were built better, and last longer. My 20+ year old Sears Coldspot
is still running as strong as the day it was new (save for the evap coil fan
which was replaced).

They don't make 'em like they used to.

Jon

"Older models were built better, and last longer..."

...but probably use a lot more electricity.

...but don't have many of the features available on newer models.

Drop your model number and electricity pricing into this calculator
and see how much you can save by upgrading...

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?...rig.calculator

I threw some numbers in there and it shows that I can replace a old
unit that costs $260/year to operate with one that costs $64/year.
Tha'ts almost a $1000 savings in 5 years. Even if the new one died
that soon, I probably saved enough to buy a new one - assuming I
actually *saved* the money. ;-)

The additional significant savings we noticed is that box temperature is
much more uniform with our new fridge. The lower you can keep the box
temp the longer food will last. In addition to the old fridge using a
lot more electricity there was a lot of food waste because if I turned
the stat down areas would freeze. So I had to set the temp higher. I
can't remember ever having spoiled milk etc or needing to discard food
with the new fridge.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:194c02cb-6542-4301-bbc1-
On Apr 4, 9:49 pm, "Robert Green" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
On Apr 4, 4:37 pm, Rebel1 wrote:

stuff snipped

Presumably the tube from the freezer to the evaporator tray is clogged,
maybe due to 14 years of dust. I've tried heating with with a hair dryer
on medium, and compressed air from a WD-40 size can of office duster.

Any other theories, or ideas for opening the drainage tube?

I once had a fridge where the drain tube would get clogged with ice
every couple of years. Pouring hot water down the tube cleared it for
a long time.

In my experience it airborne dust that gets into the drain line that
causes
a clot that then cause the line to freeze.

I never figured out what conditions caused it to freeze...once every
couple of years wasn't enough occurrences to track anything.

That sounds like the slow build-up of crud in the lines. Unfiltered room
air circulates over the coils. In time, dust builds ups. Every time I've
had to blow out the drain line with compressed air, there's been a big
clot
of black gunk expelled. Pets increase the possibility of a clog.

The problem went to the curb when I bought a fridge with a freezer on
the
bottom.

For now. I suspect you'll find that a top freezer's drain line is a heck
of
a lot easier to access than one on the bottom of the unit. You may have
gotten some relief just because the drain line is much shorter and
hopefully
much bigger than the older unit. The problem could actually get worse
because the closer to the floor, the more dust. That's based on years of
dealing with floor mounted PC's. They get incredibly dirty compared to a
desk-mounted unit. Especially when pets are around.

--
Bobby G.

At least 6 years with no problems since I bought the bottom freezer
fridge.

Maybe it just needs time. (-: I suspect that since blocked drain tubes
always seem to be a problem, that they've widened them in newer models One
possibility is that with a much shorter distance to the evaporation pan they
don't even have to use a tube, just a drain hole. The tube's where things
get stuck. My friend's fridge - might be *the same as yours - eventually
needed a small retrofit heater kit to wrap around the drain line. It was
not well-insulated from the freezer compartment and froze on occassion,
causing the water to back up and freeze the coils.

2 dogs now...only had one when I had the problems with the old
refrigerator. Older cat who spends more time inside now than she used
to when I had the problems with the old refrigerator.

So even though my conditions seem to meet the worst of your criteria,
I have yet to have an issue with the freezer drain.

I'm not wishing evil on you. Just relating my experience with much older
units. Big clots of black dust and dog air would blow out of the drain tube
which had lots of twists and turns in it that allowed deposits to build up
like plaque in arteries.

One factor to consider is that improvements may have been in the overall
design of the drain system, defrost cycle, etc. since the long- ago purchase
of my original refrigerator. The OP did say that his
refrigerator is a 14 year old Kenmore. My old unit was older than that but
it was a Kenmore also.

I agree. Most likely the bottom freezer catch pan drains directly into the
evaporation tray below without the need for 5 feet of drain tube snaking
along the inside of the unit. That's where all my clogging problems were.
If I didn't catch the problem early enough, the water would freeze on the
coils and the temperature in the freezer would slowly start to climb.
That's why I have a dual compartment RF thermometer and hardwired (but far
less useful) temperature rise alarm that activates at about 17F.

My brain's cramping as to the make of my current refrigerator, but I can
say for certain that it is *not* a Kenmore. Maybe it's a Kenmore issue above
and beyond anything else.

I'll check with my bud. I recall clearly that his issue was not enough
insulation around the drain tube to keep it from freezing. Here's his email:

I also have a GE story, but I may have shared it with you already. The
water dispenser on our refrigerator door began freezing after it was a
couple of years old. The fix was to get out a hair dryer and heat the door
until the water would flow again. Eventually it got so bad the water would
freeze up again overnight.

Searching the web I found that was a common problem, and people had the door
replaced at a cost of hundreds of dollars - sometimes covered by GE. Since
this is well past the warranty, I looked for another option. I found that
GE came out with a heater to prevent the freezing. Apparently they routed
the water line very close to the interior side of the freezer door in one
spot. I guess the insulation deteriorates enough with time to cause the
freezing. Since adding the heater - essentially some nichrome wire in a
T-shaped stick-on pad for $35 - the problem has been solved. Apparently it
didn't dawn on someone that routing that water line close to the inside of
the door in the freezer section was not a good idea.

I guess my brain cramped too. He was talking about water dispenser feed
lines, not freezer condensate drain lines. Oh well. Maybe it applies to
both cases. (-:

--
Bobby G.