I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Thu, 08 Mar 2012 23:15:40 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Are you sure the fixture wont' open? Putting a hole in the fixture
and installing a pull chain would seem to be just as easy to me.

The wire with the ridge is the neutral. Put the switch in the other
wire.

On Thu, 08 Mar 2012, Metspitzer wrote:

On Thu, 08 Mar 2012 23:15:40 -0500, Don Wiss wrote:

I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Are you sure the fixture wont' open?

No I am not sure. There are a couple of recessed plastic tabs.

Putting a hole in the fixture
and installing a pull chain would seem to be just as easy to me.

But I am sure that it would be impossible to put a switch into the light
fixture itself. The ballast and everything is in a small integrated molded
plastic housing. It isn't like the old days where you could open it up and
there were wires and a separate ballast.

The wire with the ridge is the neutral. Put the switch in the other
wire.

But there are three wires.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

"Don Wiss" wrote in message ...
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?


Black or Red = Hot

White = neutral

Green = ground



Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

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On Thu, 08 Mar 2012 23:44:13 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Thu, 08 Mar 2012, Metspitzer wrote:

On Thu, 08 Mar 2012 23:15:40 -0500, Don Wiss wrote:

I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Are you sure the fixture wont' open?

No I am not sure. There are a couple of recessed plastic tabs.

Putting a hole in the fixture
and installing a pull chain would seem to be just as easy to me.

But I am sure that it would be impossible to put a switch into the light
fixture itself. The ballast and everything is in a small integrated molded
plastic housing. It isn't like the old days where you could open it up and
there were wires and a separate ballast.

The wire with the ridge is the neutral. Put the switch in the other
wire.

But there are three wires.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Everything can be taken apart! However, you might have to break plastic
tabs or something like that to open it.

Why not just put a regular light switch in a box and mount it on the
wall next to the outlet. If you dont know how to do the wiring, and have
to pay someone to do it, why not just return that fixture and buy one
with a switch already on it. By the time you buy the parts and
particularly if you have to hire an electrician, you may as well just
spend a few more bucks for a light that is ready to go.

On Thu, 8 Mar 2012, "Hot-Text" wrote:

"Don Wiss" wrote"
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Black or Red = Hot
White = neutral
Green = ground

But this is zip cord, a.k.a. lamp cord. It is all white with a molded plug.
I only want to splice into one wire.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:05:20 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 08 Mar 2012, Don Wiss wrote:
The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Like Spitzer says, the outside wire with the ridges is the neutral
(white), the center is ground (green) and the rounded outside wire is
the hot.

Thank you for fully answering the question.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Thu, 08 Mar 2012 23:05:34 -0600, wrote:

Why not just put a regular light switch in a box and mount it on the
wall next to the outlet.

Why would I want to mount anything on the wall? The workbench is moveable.

If you dont know how to do the wiring, and have
to pay someone to do it, why not just return that fixture and buy one
with a switch already on it.

The fixture is an integrated part of the backwall and is designed to fit
into the cove top. First I can't return the lamp without returning the
entire backwall. And no other fixture is going to fit inside the top. You
can see a picture he http://www.sears.com/shc/s/?keyword=00914944000

By the time you buy the parts and
particularly if you have to hire an electrician, you may as well just
spend a few more bucks for a light that is ready to go.

Huh? The pull chain switch was about $3. There is already a hole at the end
of the top that I simply have to enlarge to 3/8". Two wire nuts cost close
to nothing. Why are you taking a simple project and blowing it all out of
proportion?

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

"Don Wiss" wrote in message news
On Thu, 8 Mar 2012, "Hot-Text" wrote:

"Don Wiss" wrote"
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Black or Red = Hot
White = neutral
Green = ground

But this is zip cord, a.k.a. lamp cord. It is all white with a molded plug.
I only want to splice into one wire.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

If not marked, the wire
connection can be determined by the screw
terminal to which they correspond. Silver
screws are found on one side of outlets and
brass on the other. White (neutral) wires
connect to the silver screws and the black
(hot) wires hook to the brass. Plug-ins and
switches have a green screw to which must
be connected the bare ground wire.



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On Fri, 9 Mar 2012, Hot-Text wrote:

"Don Wiss" wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2012, "Hot-Text" wrote:

"Don Wiss" wrote:
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Black or Red = Hot
White = neutral
Green = ground

But this is zip cord, a.k.a. lamp cord. It is all white with a molded plug.
I only want to splice into one wire.

If not marked, the wire
connection can be determined by the screw
terminal to which they correspond. Silver
screws are found on one side of outlets and
brass on the other. White (neutral) wires
connect to the silver screws and the black
(hot) wires hook to the brass. Plug-ins and
switches have a green screw to which must
be connected the bare ground wire.

Where did outlets come from? So many of the responses I got to this thread
came from people that did not bother to read what I originally posted.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

"Don Wiss" wrote in message ...
On Fri, 9 Mar 2012, Hot-Text wrote:

"Don Wiss" wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2012, "Hot-Text" wrote:

"Don Wiss" wrote:
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Black or Red = Hot
White = neutral
Green = ground

But this is zip cord, a.k.a. lamp cord. It is all white with a molded plug.
I only want to splice into one wire.

If not marked, the wire
connection can be determined by the screw
terminal to which they correspond. Silver
screws are found on one side of outlets and
brass on the other. White (neutral) wires
connect to the silver screws and the black
(hot) wires hook to the brass. Plug-ins and
switches have a green screw to which must
be connected the bare ground wire.

Where did outlets come from? So many of the responses I got to this thread
came from people that did not bother to read what I originally posted.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

If the molded plug ends not
one Silver = neutral
one brass = Hot

It all a Color Code look at the wires
one Silver = neutral
one brass = Hot

if it not one of the way,
then it have been replace before....


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On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:05:20 -0500, wrote:

the outside wire with the ridges is the neutral
(white), the center is ground (green) and the rounded outside wire is
the hot.

Thinking about it this makes sense. I know which prong is which in a plug.
All I had to realize is the wires inside the plug would not cross. And then
I could have figured it out.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

"Don Wiss" wrote in message ...
On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:05:20 -0500, wrote:

the outside wire with the ridges is the neutral
(white), the center is ground (green) and the rounded outside wire is
the hot.

Thinking about it this makes sense. I know which prong is which in a plug.
All I had to realize is the wires inside the plug would not cross. And then
I could have figured it out.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).


Where did outlets come from?
So many of the responses I got to this thread
came from people that did not bother to read what I originally posted.



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Don Wiss wrote in news:di0jl7t287etgfbebl1p9pij08p3cg3dt5@
4ax.com:

I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

The one with the ridges is neutral; the one in the middle is ground; and the remaining wire is
hot.

On Mar 8, 11:15*pm, Don Wiss wrote:
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Don.www.donwiss.com(e-mail link at home page bottom)

I just looked at a few pieces of grounded zip cord I had lying around.
On all three the ground was in the middle, neutral had a ridge molded
into it as someone else also said and hot was on the other side.

Jimmie

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:17:55 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

Huh? The pull chain switch was about $3. There is already a hole at the end
of the top that I simply have to enlarge to 3/8". Two wire nuts cost close
to nothing. Why are you taking a simple project and blowing it all out of
proportion?


You said you cant open the fixture and will need to put the switch into
the cord. This is likely a code violation and dangerous. If the bench
is movable, but the switch on the bench itself.

I'd suggest hiring an electrician before you kill yourself or someone
else in your family. Killing your children is a federal offense and
could get you life in prison!

On Thu, 8 Mar 2012 23:00:16 -0600, "Hot-Text"
wrote:


Black or Red = Hot

White = neutral

Green = ground


Dont temp this guy. If he dont know this much, and is going to cut into
the cord and splice a switch. I can already see this mess of wires and
blob or masking tape to cover the bare wires. He dont need to be
encouraged for being an idiot. He needs a professional electrician.
His only tools should be the Yellow Pages and a telephone!

Look under "E" for Electricians.

If he tries it himself, he'll need to look under "F" for Funeral Homes
and "U" for Undertakers after he kills someone.

On Mar 9, 12:17*am, Don Wiss wrote:
On Thu, 08 Mar 2012 23:05:34 -0600, wrote:
Why not just put a regular light switch in a box and mount it on the
wall next to the outlet.

Why would I want to mount anything on the wall? The workbench is moveable..

If you dont know how to do the wiring, and have
to pay someone to do it, why not just return that fixture and buy one
with a switch already on it.

The fixture is an integrated part of the backwall and is designed to fit
into the cove top. First I can't return the lamp without returning the
entire backwall. And no other fixture is going to fit inside the top. You
can see a picture hehttp://www.sears.com/shc/s/?keyword=00914944000

By the time you buy the parts and
particularly if you have to hire an electrician, you may as well just
spend a few more bucks for a light that is ready to go.

Huh? The pull chain switch was about $3. There is already a hole at the end
of the top that I simply have to enlarge to 3/8". Two wire nuts cost close
to nothing. Why are you taking a simple project and blowing it all out of
proportion?

Don.www.donwiss.com(e-mail link at home page bottom).

"There is already a hole at the end of the top that I simply have
to enlarge to 3/8". Two wire nuts cost close to nothing."

Where will these wire-nuts be housed?

Will these connections be left floating inside the workbench top or
will they be in a properly sized junction box?

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 11:13:22 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:17:55 -0500, Don Wiss wrote:

Huh? The pull chain switch was about $3. There is already a hole at the end
of the top that I simply have to enlarge to 3/8". Two wire nuts cost close
to nothing. Why are you taking a simple project and blowing it all out of
proportion?

You said you cant open the fixture and will need to put the switch into
the cord. This is likely a code violation and dangerous. If the bench
is movable, but the switch on the bench itself.

Do you mean "put" the switch on the bench itself? That is what I am doing.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 11:25:10 -0600, wrote:

Dont temp this guy. If he dont know this much, and is going to cut into
the cord and splice a switch. I can already see this mess of wires and
blob or masking tape to cover the bare wires. He dont need to be
encouraged for being an idiot. He needs a professional electrician.
His only tools should be the Yellow Pages and a telephone!

As I wrote I will use wire nuts, and of course electrical tape.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On 3/9/2012 11:13 AM, wrote:
....

... need to put the switch into
the cord. This is likely a code violation and dangerous....

What Code section would that be, pray tell?

You never seen/had a lamp or other plug-in device w/ a linecord switch?

--

On Mar 8, 11:15*pm, Don Wiss wrote:
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Don.www.donwiss.com(e-mail link at home page bottom).

Just curious...how do they expect you to turn the light on and off
now?

BTW...looking at the picture, I gotta say I really dislike the
placement of the power strip.

I have my receptacles mounted along the front of the workbench, below
the front edge. I have 4 duplex receptacles spaced evenly across the 8
foot workbench.

This keeps the cords off of the workbench and out of my way.

With the power strip on the back wall, all of your cords will be
running across the top of the workbench and constantly getting in the
way of your projects.

wrote in :

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:17:55 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

Huh? The pull chain switch was about $3. There is already a hole at the end
of the top that I simply have to enlarge to 3/8". Two wire nuts cost close
to nothing. Why are you taking a simple project and blowing it all out of
proportion?


You said you cant open the fixture and will need to put the switch into
the cord. This is likely a code violation

Nonsense. Code applies to premises wiring, not to things that plug into it.

and dangerous

More nonsense. Nothing dangerous about using a line cord switch, as long as it's properly
done.

I'd suggest hiring an electrician before you kill yourself or someone
else in your family. Killing your children is a federal offense and
could get you life in prison!

Also nonsense.

Killing *anybody* isn't a Federal offense unless it occurs on Federal property. Otherwise,
murder is prosecuted under state statute.

In the future, stick to offering advice on subjects you know something about. If there are any.

On Fri, 9 Mar 2012 17:59:17 +0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
wrote:

wrote in :

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:17:55 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

Huh? The pull chain switch was about $3. There is already a hole at the end
of the top that I simply have to enlarge to 3/8". Two wire nuts cost close
to nothing. Why are you taking a simple project and blowing it all out of
proportion?


You said you cant open the fixture and will need to put the switch into
the cord. This is likely a code violation

Nonsense. Code applies to premises wiring, not to things that plug into it.

Apparently there is at least one exception (plug-in GFCI on hair dryer).

and dangerous

More nonsense. Nothing dangerous about using a line cord switch, as long as it's properly
done.

I'd suggest hiring an electrician before you kill yourself or someone
else in your family. Killing your children is a federal offense and
could get you life in prison!

Also nonsense.

Killing *anybody* isn't a Federal offense unless it occurs on Federal property. Otherwise,
murder is prosecuted under state statute.

In the future, stick to offering advice on subjects you know something about. If there are any.

On Mar 9, 12:59*pm, Doug Miller
wrote:
wrote :

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:17:55 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

Huh? The pull chain switch was about $3. There is already a hole at the end
of the top that I simply have to enlarge to 3/8". Two wire nuts cost close
to nothing. Why are you taking a simple project and blowing it all out of
proportion?

You said you cant open the fixture and will need to put the switch into
the cord. *This is likely a code violation

Nonsense. Code applies to premises wiring, not to things that plug into it.

On Fri, 9 Mar 2012, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Mar 8, 11:15*pm, Don Wiss wrote:
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

Just curious...how do they expect you to turn the light on and off
now?

They don't really say. There is a hole to run the wire out to the back. I
think they expect you to plug it into the power strip and use that switch
to turn it on and off.

Many reviews at Sears (under the 6' backwall) complain about the lack of an
on/off switch. One complains about having to plug/unplug the light into the
power strip. Another writes "I solved this by pulling the plug-end off,
drilling a hole, and soldering in a $4 chain pulled on/off switch from
*****. It should have just come that way." Another writes "The light could
use a power switch. I guess I will splice one into the cord."

I could solder instead of using wire nuts.

BTW...looking at the picture, I gotta say I really dislike the
placement of the power strip.

You mean all the way at one end (of your choice)? I ordered a second for
the other end. But the mounting brackets for it are in the bag with all the
parts for the backwall. So a neighbor is going to bend some metal strips he
has around and will make a couple for me.

I have my receptacles mounted along the front of the workbench, below
the front edge. I have 4 duplex receptacles spaced evenly across the 8
foot workbench.

This keeps the cords off of the workbench and out of my way.

With the power strip on the back wall, all of your cords will be
running across the top of the workbench and constantly getting in the
way of your projects.

I see. A nice idea. But cutting holes in the front steel frame to install
electrical boxes would be very difficult.

I also suspect your workbench cost more. Sears' online prices fluctuate
every few days. I paid $700 for the frame, backwall, one 5-drawer set, and
butcher block top. That included NYC sales tax and delivery.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Fri, 9 Mar 2012, DerbyDad03 wrote:

"There is already a hole at the end of the top that I simply have
to enlarge to 3/8". Two wire nuts cost close to nothing."

Where will these wire-nuts be housed?

Will these connections be left floating inside the workbench top or
will they be in a properly sized junction box?

I've thought about a junction box. I probably could find one to fit in
there. It would require drilling a bunch more holes, instead of simply
enlarging one that is already there.

If no box, I would use electrical tape to tape to the top so they don't
actually float.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Mar 9, 1:55*pm, Don Wiss wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2012, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Mar 8, 11:15*pm, Don Wiss wrote:
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.
Just curious...how do they expect you to turn the light on and off
now?

They don't really say. There is a hole to run the wire out to the back. I
think they expect you to plug it into the power strip and use that switch
to turn it on and off.

Many reviews at Sears (under the 6' backwall) complain about the lack of an
on/off switch. One complains about having to plug/unplug the light into the
power strip. Another writes "I solved this by pulling the plug-end off,
drilling a hole, and soldering in a $4 chain pulled on/off switch from
*****. It should have just come that way." Another writes "The light could
use a power switch. I guess I will splice one into the cord."

I could solder instead of using wire nuts.

BTW...looking at the picture, I gotta say I really dislike the
placement of the power strip.

You mean all the way at one end (of your choice)? I ordered a second for
the other end. But the mounting brackets for it are in the bag with all the
parts for the backwall. So a neighbor is going to bend some metal strips he
has around and will make a couple for me.

I have my receptacles mounted along the front of the workbench, below
the front edge. I have 4 duplex receptacles spaced evenly across the 8
foot workbench.

This keeps the cords off of the workbench and out of my way.

With the power strip on the back wall, all of your cords will be
running across the top of the workbench and constantly getting in the
way of your projects.

I see. A nice idea. But cutting holes in the front steel frame to install
electrical boxes would be very difficult.

I also suspect your workbench cost more. Sears' online prices fluctuate
every few days. I paid $700 for the frame, backwall, one 5-drawer set, and
butcher block top. That included NYC sales tax and delivery.

Don.www.donwiss.com(e-mail link at home page bottom).

My workbench is homemade and all wood - very old, full sized 2 x 4's
and 2 x 6's, topped with a replaceable piece of hardboard. ~3.5' x 8'.

Most assuredly not mobile.

Mounting a series of receptacles across the front involved nothing
more than some wood screws through the back of the electrical boxes
and a bunch of wire staples to secure the Romex. There's a junction
box on the back corner where the feed wire comes in so that I can
unhook it if I had to.

The receptacles are on a different circuit than the lights so that if
the breaker trips I'm not plunged into darkness. That's always a good
idea for a workshop.

On 3/9/2012 1:01 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2012, wrote:

"There is already a hole at the end of the top that I simply have
to enlarge to 3/8". Two wire nuts cost close to nothing."

Where will these wire-nuts be housed?

Will these connections be left floating inside the workbench top or
will they be in a properly sized junction box?

I've thought about a junction box. I probably could find one to fit in
there. It would require drilling a bunch more holes, instead of simply
enlarging one that is already there.

If no box, I would use electrical tape to tape to the top so they don't
actually float.

Well, Code does require "workmanlike" manner of installation. I was
presuming you would have the connections inside the lamp housing but I
guess that's what you meant in the no-access part.

While it is undoubtedly "safe enough" from an actual standpoint to do
the latter, I would find a small box and mount the switch there and
mount the box permanently to either the lamp housing or the bench.

I would/do _not_ consider the tape solution "workmanlike".

--

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 13:24:43 -0600, dpb wrote:

Well, Code does require "workmanlike" manner of installation. I was
presuming you would have the connections inside the lamp housing but I
guess that's what you meant in the no-access part.

One reviewer wrote "I solved this by pulling the plug-end off, drilling a
hole, and soldering in a $4 chain pulled on/off switch from *****. It
should have just come that way."

If I could figure out to pull the end off, the pull chain switch that I
bought is deeper than the plastic housing. It requires 7/8" behind, and the
plastic housing is only 5/8" thick outside dimension. So less inside
between its two plastic walls. Say less than 1/2" deep inside.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Don Wiss wrote:
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord.
I'd like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with
pigtail leads) that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd
simply take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has
the extra ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

You're trying to solve the wrong problem.

Think "Clapper" (as seen on TV).

If that's too "old" fashioned, think power strip with a switch. You'll
always need extra outlets anyway.

On 3/9/2012 2:14 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 13:24:43 -0600, wrote:

Well, Code does require "workmanlike" manner of installation. I was
presuming you would have the connections inside the lamp housing but I
guess that's what you meant in the no-access part.

One reviewer wrote "I solved this by pulling the plug-end off, drilling a
hole, and soldering in a $4 chain pulled on/off switch from *****. It
should have just come that way."

If I could figure out to pull the end off, the pull chain switch that I
bought is deeper than the plastic housing. It requires 7/8" behind, and the
plastic housing is only 5/8" thick outside dimension. So less inside
between its two plastic walls. Say less than 1/2" deep inside.
....

There're a million boxes from which to choose--the Shack used to have
bunches; the one here has nothing electronic to speak of in stock any
longer so don't know what you might find walk-in...what I'm thinking of
in general, not necessarily a specific...

http://search.digikey.com/ca/en/products/M17%20PLN/L210-ND/268786

Pictures/drawings??? As another respondent said earlier, "there's
_always_ a way"...

Or, if figuring out how mounting the switch is too much a pita, buy an
inline cord switch and put it in the line where it's convenient. That
leaves no unhidden connections.

--

" wrote in
:

On Fri, 9 Mar 2012 17:59:17 +0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
wrote:

wrote in :

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:17:55 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

Huh? The pull chain switch was about $3. There is already a hole at the end
of the top that I simply have to enlarge to 3/8". Two wire nuts cost close
to nothing. Why are you taking a simple project and blowing it all out of
proportion?


You said you cant open the fixture and will need to put the switch into
the cord. This is likely a code violation

Nonsense. Code applies to premises wiring, not to things that plug into it.

Apparently there is at least one exception (plug-in GFCI on hair dryer).

Where does Code require that?

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 15:10:48 -0600, dpb wrote:

Or, if figuring out how mounting the switch is too much a pita, buy an
inline cord switch and put it in the line where it's convenient. That
leaves no unhidden connections.

That was my first thought. But the three wire zip cord is too wide. All the
ones I found are all designed for 2-wire zip cord.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

"Don Wiss" wrote in message
...
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

I solved a similar problem using something I was clued into here in AHR. A
tiny switch adapter - mine came from Radio Shack but I have seen others. It
looks like a three-prong to two prong adapter but it has a small switch on
the side to control any load plugged into it.

There are also remote switches - they are very much like the small adapter
switch but they have a wire leading out from the "stacked" outlet - you plug
your lamp into the piggyback plug and then into the wall. I wire leads out
from the outlet to a small hand-holdable switch. That way you can place the
switch anywhere that's convenient.

http://www.amazon.com/Woods-Extensio...86/ref=sr_1_20

is the URL (I hope) for the wired one - they have a wireless remote switches
as well that would even be more convenient although a little pricier. All
UL listed, no code or safety issues. (-:

--
Bobby G.

On Thu, 08 Mar 2012 23:15:40 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

The light fixture wasn't designed to be taken apart. Otherwise I'd simply
take it apart and use an ohm meter. One of the side wires has the extra
ridges. Which wire is neutral, ground, and hot?

Take a hat pin or a corsage pin or a straight pin and put it into the
wire and use your meter. The little hole it might leave won't
matter. Use a wire with an alligator clip on the end to grip the
pin.

You might also be able to tell from the end of the wire not connected
to the light. Measure resittance from each prong to various parts of
the fixture.

Is there a plug on the end. The narrow prong is hot.


Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Mar 9, 4:27*pm, Doug Miller
wrote:
" wrote :





On Fri, 9 Mar 2012 17:59:17 +0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
wrote:

wrote :

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:17:55 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

Huh? The pull chain switch was about $3. There is already a hole at the end
of the top that I simply have to enlarge to 3/8". Two wire nuts cost close
to nothing. Why are you taking a simple project and blowing it all out of
proportion?

You said you cant open the fixture and will need to put the switch into
the cord. *This is likely a code violation

Nonsense. Code applies to premises wiring, not to things that plug into it.

Apparently there is at least one exception (plug-in GFCI on hair dryer)..

Where does Code require that?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We went through that about a month ago. I thought
the same thing, that the NEC wouldn't have anything
to do with a hairdryer, but it does cover it. I read it.
It says hairdryers have to provide protection against shock.
If you google the group here for it you should be
able to find it.

I agree that a properly installed switch in that light cord
is OK. There sure are plenty of those around.

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 13:55:32 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Fri, 9 Mar 2012, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Mar 8, 11:15*pm, Don Wiss wrote:
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch. Its cord is grounded zip cord. I'd
like to splice into the hot wire a pull chain switch (with pigtail leads)
that I can easily mount at the end of the cove top.

Just curious...how do they expect you to turn the light on and off
now?

They don't really say. There is a hole to run the wire out to the back. I
think they expect you to plug it into the power strip and use that switch
to turn it on and off.

Many reviews at Sears (under the 6' backwall) complain about the lack of an
on/off switch. One complains about having to plug/unplug the light into the
power strip. Another writes "I solved this by pulling the plug-end off,
drilling a hole, and soldering in a $4 chain pulled on/off switch from
*****. It should have just come that way." Another writes "The light could
use a power switch. I guess I will splice one into the cord."

They also make 1" cubes with a switch on top, and prongs on one side,
and a receptacle on another. I use them a lot for things without
swtiches.

See my other post.

On Sat, 10 Mar 2012 14:16:54 -0500, micky wrote:

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 13:55:32 -0500, Don Wiss wrote:

On Fri, 9 Mar 2012, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Mar 8, 11:15*pm, Don Wiss wrote:
I bought a Sears workbench with a backwall. The backwall includes a
fluorescent light that has no switch.

Just curious...how do they expect you to turn the light on and off
now?

Many reviews at Sears (under the 6' backwall) complain about the lack of an
on/off switch. One complains about having to plug/unplug the light into the
power strip.

They also make 1" cubes with a switch on top, and prongs on one side,
and a receptacle on another. I use them a lot for things without
swtiches.

That would be good for the fellow plugging it in and out. I guess he has
something else plugged in that he wants to keep on.

I don't want to have my cord run down the side and across to an outlet that
is past the switch. I want all the wire hidden in the top housing. And then
go out the back.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Fri, 9 Mar 2012, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I have my receptacles mounted along the front of the workbench, below
the front edge. I have 4 duplex receptacles spaced evenly across the 8
foot workbench.

I could do that fairly easily with Wiremold or using some other surface
mounted parts. The top has a 6" overhang. And there is a 4" wide support
beam under the top.

Some years ago I tossed out a lot of Wiremold. Some prior owner of this
pre-electric house had used it in a couple of walkthrough closets.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).