In my mother-in-law's house there were some very old wall switches
that were 3-way. I needed to replace them for what safety reasons. So
I picked up a couple of Leviton 3-ways from the HOME.

I replaced them connecting the red/white/black wires to the same
terminals as the old one on both ends. Problem is - only one switch
controls the power. Kind of defeats the purpose of the 3-way.

So, before I go crazy trying to figure this out with a meter and a
long jumper wire I thought I would ask here for some guidance for an
easier way to figure this out.

Anyone??? Thanks

On 2/20/2012 6:38 PM, wrote:
In my mother-in-law's house there were some very old wall switches
that were 3-way. I needed to replace them for what safety reasons. So
I picked up a couple of Leviton 3-ways from the HOME.

I replaced them connecting the red/white/black wires to the same
terminals as the old one on both ends. Problem is - only one switch
controls the power. Kind of defeats the purpose of the 3-way.

So, before I go crazy trying to figure this out with a meter and a
long jumper wire I thought I would ask here for some guidance for an
easier way to figure this out.

Anyone??? Thanks

You should always test the system after each switch replacement. This
way you immediately know where you screwed up. At this point, remove
both switches and disconnect the 3 wires from each and isolate them from
each other. With a test lamp, pig tail socket, or volt meter, test all
six wires, testing between each wire to ground. One of the six wires
will be hot. That hot wire will go to the common terminal of one switch.
The common terminal will be the odd colored one. The other two wires go
to the remaining terminals on the switch in any order. Once this has
been safely connected, check the three wires at the second location. One
wire will be hot. That wire goes to either of the two same colored
terminals of the second switch. Go back to the first switch and flip it.
Now go back to the second switch and test the remaining two wires. One
will be hot. That hot wire goes to the second of the two same colored
terminals. The remaining wire goes to the common of this switch, and voila.

On 2/20/2012 5:38 PM, wrote:
In my mother-in-law's house there were some very old wall switches
that were 3-way. I needed to replace them for what safety reasons. So
I picked up a couple of Leviton 3-ways from the HOME.

I replaced them connecting the red/white/black wires to the same
terminals as the old one on both ends. Problem is - only one switch
controls the power. Kind of defeats the purpose of the 3-way.

So, before I go crazy trying to figure this out with a meter and a
long jumper wire I thought I would ask here for some guidance for an
easier way to figure this out.

Anyone??? Thanks


Look at the old switch. One screw will be a different color than the
other two. You need to remember which wire was on that different screw.
And put THAT wire on the black screw on the new switch. Position of
the screws is irrelevant. Same on both switches. The "common" screw is
the important one. The other two wires can be on either of the other
two screws.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

wrote in :

In my mother-in-law's house there were some very old wall switches
that were 3-way. I needed to replace them for what safety reasons. So
I picked up a couple of Leviton 3-ways from the HOME.

I replaced them connecting the red/white/black wires to the same
terminals as the old one on both ends. Problem is - only one switch
controls the power. Kind of defeats the purpose of the 3-way.

So, before I go crazy trying to figure this out with a meter and a
long jumper wire I thought I would ask here for some guidance for an
easier way to figure this out.

Anyone??? Thanks

Read other replies.


My 2¢

One common terminal ALWAYS goes to the line (power source) hot (usually
black).

The white from the line ALWAYS goes directly to the device being
controlled (ie light)

The the common terminal on the other 3 way switch ALWAYS goes to the hot
side of the device being controlled (ie light)

The travelers (other two screws on each switch) are connected to each
other.


Take a look at these diagrams. Trace what I said above in the diagrams.
Note: White wites may be used as hots (SUPPOSE to be marked with black
tape on the end).

http://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home-...g-diagram.html

On Mon, 20 Feb 2012 18:49:55 -0500, RBM wrote:

On 2/20/2012 6:38 PM, wrote:
In my mother-in-law's house there were some very old wall switches
that were 3-way. I needed to replace them for what safety reasons. So
I picked up a couple of Leviton 3-ways from the HOME.

I replaced them connecting the red/white/black wires to the same
terminals as the old one on both ends. Problem is - only one switch
controls the power. Kind of defeats the purpose of the 3-way.

So, before I go crazy trying to figure this out with a meter and a
long jumper wire I thought I would ask here for some guidance for an
easier way to figure this out.

Anyone??? Thanks

You should always test the system after each switch replacement. This

Take a picture of each switch before disconnecting them. (Yeah I know
that advice is a little late)

way you immediately know where you screwed up. At this point, remove
both switches and disconnect the 3 wires from each and isolate them from
each other. With a test lamp, pig tail socket, or volt meter, test all
six wires, testing between each wire to ground. One of the six wires
will be hot. That hot wire will go to the common terminal of one switch.
The common terminal will be the odd colored one. The other two wires go
to the remaining terminals on the switch in any order. Once this has
been safely connected, check the three wires at the second location. One
wire will be hot. That wire goes to either of the two same colored
terminals of the second switch. Go back to the first switch and flip it.
Now go back to the second switch and test the remaining two wires. One
will be hot. That hot wire goes to the second of the two same colored
terminals. The remaining wire goes to the common of this switch, and voila.

On 2/20/2012 7:38 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
On Mon, 20 Feb 2012 18:49:55 -0500, wrote:

On 2/20/2012 6:38 PM, wrote:
In my mother-in-law's house there were some very old wall switches
that were 3-way. I needed to replace them for what safety reasons. So
I picked up a couple of Leviton 3-ways from the HOME.

I replaced them connecting the red/white/black wires to the same
terminals as the old one on both ends. Problem is - only one switch
controls the power. Kind of defeats the purpose of the 3-way.

So, before I go crazy trying to figure this out with a meter and a
long jumper wire I thought I would ask here for some guidance for an
easier way to figure this out.

Anyone??? Thanks

You should always test the system after each switch replacement. This

Take a picture of each switch before disconnecting them. (Yeah I know
that advice is a little late)

way you immediately know where you screwed up. At this point, remove
both switches and disconnect the 3 wires from each and isolate them from
each other. With a test lamp, pig tail socket, or volt meter, test all
six wires, testing between each wire to ground. One of the six wires
will be hot. That hot wire will go to the common terminal of one switch.
The common terminal will be the odd colored one. The other two wires go
to the remaining terminals on the switch in any order. Once this has
been safely connected, check the three wires at the second location. One
wire will be hot. That wire goes to either of the two same colored
terminals of the second switch. Go back to the first switch and flip it.
Now go back to the second switch and test the remaining two wires. One
will be hot. That hot wire goes to the second of the two same colored
terminals. The remaining wire goes to the common of this switch, and voila.

These days, with cheap digital cameras and cell phone cameras, I take
pictures of everything, especially things I'm going to disassemble and
reassemble.

A digital camera is the most important tool in the tool box.
My Canon has saved my but more than once. ;-)

On 2/20/2012 7:06 PM, RBM wrote:
On 2/20/2012 7:38 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
On Mon, 20 Feb 2012 18:49:55 -0500, wrote:

On 2/20/2012 6:38 PM, wrote:
In my mother-in-law's house there were some very old wall switches
that were 3-way. I needed to replace them for what safety reasons. So
I picked up a couple of Leviton 3-ways from the HOME.

I replaced them connecting the red/white/black wires to the same
terminals as the old one on both ends. Problem is - only one switch
controls the power. Kind of defeats the purpose of the 3-way.

So, before I go crazy trying to figure this out with a meter and a
long jumper wire I thought I would ask here for some guidance for an
easier way to figure this out.

Anyone??? Thanks

You should always test the system after each switch replacement. This

Take a picture of each switch before disconnecting them. (Yeah I know
that advice is a little late)

way you immediately know where you screwed up. At this point, remove
both switches and disconnect the 3 wires from each and isolate them from
each other. With a test lamp, pig tail socket, or volt meter, test all
six wires, testing between each wire to ground. One of the six wires
will be hot. That hot wire will go to the common terminal of one switch.
The common terminal will be the odd colored one. The other two wires go
to the remaining terminals on the switch in any order. Once this has
been safely connected, check the three wires at the second location. One
wire will be hot. That wire goes to either of the two same colored
terminals of the second switch. Go back to the first switch and flip it.
Now go back to the second switch and test the remaining two wires. One
will be hot. That hot wire goes to the second of the two same colored
terminals. The remaining wire goes to the common of this switch, and
voila.

These days, with cheap digital cameras and cell phone cameras, I take
pictures of everything, especially things I'm going to disassemble and
reassemble.

It was common practice in the electronic repair depot to have a notebook
and a pen/pencil ready to draw a picture or diagram of what we were
working on. A friend of mine had a big dry erase board on the wall next
to his workbench. I now have to take a lot of pictures to Email to the
service corporation we're doing service calls and installations for. ^_^

TDD

TDD

Thanks for the quick responses guys.
I know I should have used the phone/camera trick but isn't hindsight
wonderful.

WIth this advise and diagrams I should be OK - Thanks again.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2012 22:45:03 -0500, wrote:

Thanks for the quick responses guys.
I know I should have used the phone/camera trick but isn't hindsight
wonderful.

WIth this advise and diagrams I should be OK - Thanks again.

Like RBM says. Just take both switches off and find the only 1 of 6
wires will be hot. Mark that wire with black tape and put that wire
on the common. Put the other two wires on the other two terminals.


Go to the other switch and find the wire that never gets hot and mark
it black and put it on the common. It is easier than it sounds.

wrote:
Thanks for the quick responses guys.
I know I should have used the phone/camera trick but isn't hindsight
wonderful.

WIth this advise and diagrams I should be OK - Thanks again.

Last time I messed with them, there was a diagram on the back of the
box the switch came in.

On Tue, 21 Feb 2012 06:09:55 -0600, "Mr. Austerity" "PrintMo.Money "
wrote:

wrote:
Thanks for the quick responses guys.
I know I should have used the phone/camera trick but isn't hindsight
wonderful.

WIth this advise and diagrams I should be OK - Thanks again.

Last time I messed with them, there was a diagram on the back of the
box the switch came in.

Unless the wires you took off were marked with the common a diagram is
worthless.

On Feb 20, 6:38*pm, wrote:
In my mother-in-law's house there were some very old wall switches
that were 3-way. *I needed to replace them for what safety reasons. So
I picked up a couple of Leviton 3-ways from the HOME.

I replaced them connecting the red/white/black wires to the same
terminals as the old one on both ends. * Problem is - only one switch
controls the power. *Kind of defeats the purpose of the 3-way.

So, before I go crazy trying to figure this out with a meter and a
long jumper wire I thought I would ask here for some guidance for an
easier way to figure this out.

Anyone??? * *Thanks
Sounds like you have a traveler and a common reversed
Remove both switches leave the wires exposed so you can get to them
with a volt meter but not shorting to anything. Turn the breaker on.
Measure from each wire to ground at each switch until you find one
with 120 VAC on it. This will go to the common of one switch. Kill the
breaker and wire in that switch. Turn power back on and check for
120VAC at the other switch, this will be a traveler. Toggle the first
switch and check for voltage again at the position of the second for
120VAC. This will be the other traveler. Oh Yeah Turn off the breaker
that feeds it before you start. BTW noticed I made no reference to the
color of wire. You can never count on them being right.
Yeah I left out some stuff to protect the fools. Use this with any 3
way wiring diagram and what I left out will be obvious.

Jimmie

On 2/21/2012 6:09 AM, Mr. Austerity wrote:
wrote:
Thanks for the quick responses guys.
I know I should have used the phone/camera trick but isn't hindsight
wonderful.

WIth this advise and diagrams I should be OK - Thanks again.

Last time I messed with them, there was a diagram on the back of the box
the switch came in.

if you have to look at a diagram, you probably should leave it alone and
call someone.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

"nobody" wrote in :

A digital camera is the most important tool in the tool box.
My Canon has saved my but more than once. ;-)



You betcha!

....from carb rebuilding to electrical outlets that are hubs, the digital
camera has been a lifesaver for CRS folks.

"nobody" wrote in :

A digital camera is the most important tool in the tool box.
My Canon has saved my but more than once. ;-)



You betcha!

....from carb rebuilding to electrical outlets that are hubs, the digital
camera has been a lifesaver for CRS folks.

Remember the TV show Flinstones, and their stone age camera was a bird in a
box, that pecked out the picture with its beak? I've done that, but using a
hand and pencil before digital cameras came out.

I agonized over spending the hundred bucks to buy a digicam. But, after I
tried some things with it, I was (am) very glad I did. Money very well
spent.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Red Green" wrote in message
...
"nobody" wrote in :

A digital camera is the most important tool in the tool box.
My Canon has saved my but more than once. ;-)



You betcha!

....from carb rebuilding to electrical outlets that are hubs, the digital
camera has been a lifesaver for CRS folks.

On 02/20/2012 06:38 PM, wrote:
In my mother-in-law's house there were some very old wall switches
that were 3-way. I needed to replace them for what safety reasons. So
I picked up a couple of Leviton 3-ways from the HOME.

I replaced them connecting the red/white/black wires to the same
terminals as the old one on both ends. Problem is - only one switch
controls the power. Kind of defeats the purpose of the 3-way.

So, before I go crazy trying to figure this out with a meter and a
long jumper wire I thought I would ask here for some guidance for an
easier way to figure this out.

Anyone??? Thanks

Why would you replace wall switches just because they were old? Was
there something leading you to believe that they were unsafe? I'm not a
big fan of replacing stuff just to replace it.

That said...

the brass terminal on the new switches is the common, when you flip the
switch it switches power between the two silver colored terminals. In
one position it connects the brass terminal to one of the silver
terminals; in the other position it will connect the brass terminal to
the other silver terminal. (sometimes it's black for brass and brass
for silver, but in any case, one terminal will be a different color than
the other two; the different one will be the common.)

In each switch box, do you have one two wire cable and one three wire
cable? And the white wires are all nutted together? If that is the
case you have the easiest setup to diagnose. Shut off the power,
disconnect both switches, and test for power. If you have power on the
black conductor at one of the two two-wire cables you're probably
golden. If you really want to thoroughly test then apply power to the
*other* black conductor coming from a two-wire cable. The light should
light. If that is the case then install the switches so that the black
conductor from each two wire cable is landed on the brass (common)
terminal of each switch. The red and black conductors of the three wire
cable (it's the same cable, trust me) are your travelers, those land on
the silver (not common) terminals and it doesn't really matter which one
goes where. Turn the power back on, test, enjoy.

If you have a different configuration, given that I've described how the
switches function, hopefully you can puzzle it through logically given
some diagrams of possible 3-way wiring configs.


http://www.thecircuitdetective.com/3and4wyinfo.htm

I remember one house I lived in that had power feeding the ceiling box
and two 3-wire switch legs dropping down to two different wall switches.
That was fun to puzzle out, esp. since it was old dirty rag wiring
(needed to peer real close to see color) and my landlord had had "his
friend who's good with things like that" replace all the switches in the
house... yeah. Of course I had to fix it because I couldn't abide
living in a house whose lights had special instructions. Had to redo
every damn 3-way in the whole joint.

good luck,

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 02/20/2012 06:24 PM, Red Green wrote:

[snip]

Read other replies.


My 2¢

One common terminal ALWAYS goes to the line (power source) hot (usually
black).

The white from the line ALWAYS goes directly to the device being
controlled (ie light)

The the common terminal on the other 3 way switch ALWAYS goes to the hot
side of the device being controlled (ie light)

The travelers (other two screws on each switch) are connected to each
other.

This is not always true. There is one setup that's different. Both hot
and neutral connect to each switch (NOT to common). There is only one
traveler, between the common terminals with the light in the middle of it.

[snip]

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"This crime called blasphemy was invented by priests for the purpose of
defending doctrines not able to take care of themselves." [Robert G.
Ingersoll]

On 02/20/2012 11:32 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
On Mon, 20 Feb 2012 22:45:03 -0500, wrote:

Thanks for the quick responses guys.
I know I should have used the phone/camera trick but isn't hindsight
wonderful.

WIth this advise and diagrams I should be OK - Thanks again.

Like RBM says. Just take both switches off and find the only 1 of 6
wires will be hot.

Check ALL 6. Don't stop when you find hot. Some circuits aren't wired
like they're "supposed to be".

Mark that wire with black tape and put that wire
on the common. Put the other two wires on the other two terminals.

Go to the other switch and find the wire that never gets hot and mark
it black and put it on the common. It is easier than it sounds.



--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"This crime called blasphemy was invented by priests for the purpose of
defending doctrines not able to take care of themselves." [Robert G.
Ingersoll]

On Feb 21, 7:47*pm, Mark Lloyd wrote:
On 02/20/2012 06:24 PM, Red Green wrote:

[snip]





Read other replies.

My 2¢

One common terminal ALWAYS goes to the line (power source) hot (usually
black).

The white from the line ALWAYS goes directly to the device being
controlled (ie light)

The the common terminal on the other 3 way switch ALWAYS goes to the hot
side of the device being controlled (ie light)

The travelers (other two screws on each switch) are connected to each
other.

This is not always true. There is one setup that's different. Both hot
and neutral connect to each switch (NOT to common). There is only one
traveler, between the common terminals with the light in the middle of it..
--
Mark Lloydhttp://notstupid.us


Isn't that a code violation since it results in the neutral
being switched? Definitely seems like a bad thing to
do. Doing it the above way, there could be power at
the light with the switch being off, leading to a nasty
surprise.

On 02/21/2012 08:02 PM, wrote:
On Feb 21, 7:47 pm, Mark wrote:
On 02/20/2012 06:24 PM, Red Green wrote:

[snip]





Read other replies.

My 2¢

One common terminal ALWAYS goes to the line (power source) hot (usually
black).

The white from the line ALWAYS goes directly to the device being
controlled (ie light)

The the common terminal on the other 3 way switch ALWAYS goes to the hot
side of the device being controlled (ie light)

The travelers (other two screws on each switch) are connected to each
other.

This is not always true. There is one setup that's different. Both hot
and neutral connect to each switch (NOT to common). There is only one
traveler, between the common terminals with the light in the middle of it.
--
Mark Lloydhttp://notstupid.us


Isn't that a code violation since it results in the neutral
being switched? Definitely seems like a bad thing to
do. Doing it the above way, there could be power at
the light with the switch being off, leading to a nasty
surprise.

yeah, I'm thinking that would also violate "currents in cable sum to zero"

There are, however, alternate methods which are legal, I mentioned one
in my previous post (hot to light fixture box, three wire switch leg
with no neutral in switch box - although that one will not be legal
anymore once the latest NEC is adopted from what I hear, as apparently
switch legs now need to contain a neutral even if it's not used.)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 2/21/2012 8:02 PM, wrote:
On Feb 21, 7:47 pm, Mark wrote:
On 02/20/2012 06:24 PM, Red Green wrote:

[snip]





Read other replies.

My 2¢

One common terminal ALWAYS goes to the line (power source) hot (usually
black).

The white from the line ALWAYS goes directly to the device being
controlled (ie light)

The the common terminal on the other 3 way switch ALWAYS goes to the hot
side of the device being controlled (ie light)

The travelers (other two screws on each switch) are connected to each
other.

This is not always true. There is one setup that's different. Both hot
and neutral connect to each switch (NOT to common). There is only one
traveler, between the common terminals with the light in the middle of it.
--
Mark Lloydhttp://notstupid.us


Isn't that a code violation since it results in the neutral
being switched? Definitely seems like a bad thing to
do. Doing it the above way, there could be power at
the light with the switch being off, leading to a nasty
surprise.

It is a violation and has been since like the twenties. It's called a
Carter 3way and you're not going to find it in anything remotely modern

On 02/21/2012 07:02 PM, wrote:
On Feb 21, 7:47 pm, Mark wrote:

[snip]

Isn't that a code violation since it results in the neutral
being switched? Definitely seems like a bad thing to
do. Doing it the above way, there could be power at
the light with the switch being off, leading to a nasty
surprise.

True, but I never said it was a safe way to do it. Just that it DOES
happen. I've seen one recently.

BTW, I also know of an electrician installing a 3-prong 240V outlet for
a dryer. That was a code violation too.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"If Atheism is a religion, then health is a disease!" [Clark Adams]

On 2/21/2012 8:09 PM, RBM wrote:
On 2/21/2012 8:02 PM, wrote:
On Feb 21, 7:47 pm, Mark wrote:
On 02/20/2012 06:24 PM, Red Green wrote:

[snip]





Read other replies.

My 2¢

One common terminal ALWAYS goes to the line (power source) hot (usually
black).

The white from the line ALWAYS goes directly to the device being
controlled (ie light)

The the common terminal on the other 3 way switch ALWAYS goes to the
hot
side of the device being controlled (ie light)

The travelers (other two screws on each switch) are connected to each
other.

This is not always true. There is one setup that's different. Both hot
and neutral connect to each switch (NOT to common). There is only one
traveler, between the common terminals with the light in the middle
of it.
--
Mark Lloydhttp://notstupid.us


Isn't that a code violation since it results in the neutral
being switched? Definitely seems like a bad thing to
do. Doing it the above way, there could be power at
the light with the switch being off, leading to a nasty
surprise.

It is a violation and has been since like the twenties. It's called a
Carter 3way and you're not going to find it in anything remotely modern

I have only seen it on K&T, but I don't think anything else was common
back then.

Another 3-way variant is a "California 3-way". It is much harder to
troubleshoot. It is completely legal.

--
bud--

In ,
typed:
In my mother-in-law's house there were some very old wall
switches that were 3-way. I needed to replace them for
what safety reasons. So I picked up a couple of Leviton
3-ways from the HOME.

I replaced them connecting the red/white/black wires to
the same terminals as the old one on both ends. Problem
is - only one switch controls the power. Kind of defeats
the purpose of the 3-way.

So, before I go crazy trying to figure this out with a
meter and a long jumper wire I thought I would ask here
for some guidance for an easier way to figure this out.

Anyone??? Thanks

Look it up on google or your fav srch eng

Mark Lloyd wrote in news:s071r.59918$Yj2.58424
@unlimited.newshosting.com:

On 02/21/2012 07:02 PM, wrote:
On Feb 21, 7:47 pm, Mark wrote:

[snip]

Isn't that a code violation since it results in the neutral
being switched? Definitely seems like a bad thing to
do. Doing it the above way, there could be power at
the light with the switch being off, leading to a nasty
surprise.

True, but I never said it was a safe way to do it. Just that it DOES
happen. I've seen one recently.

Really now, what is the sense of even mentioning it? It's not like he has
.... oh, nevermind.

I mean like what is one to reply to such a post?

Here's the right way....
Here's a wrong way...
Here's a stupid way...
Here's an unsafe way...
Here's the way to do it in 1929...
Here's how to do it with DC...


BTW, I also know of an electrician installing a 3-prong 240V outlet for
a dryer. That was a code violation too.

On Feb 22, 7:49*pm, Red Green wrote:
Mark Lloyd wrote in news:s071r.59918$Yj2.58424
@unlimited.newshosting.com:

On 02/21/2012 07:02 PM, wrote:
On Feb 21, 7:47 pm, Mark *wrote:

[snip]

Isn't that a code violation since it results in the neutral
being switched? *Definitely seems like a bad thing to
do. *Doing it the above way, there could be power at
the light with the switch being off, leading to a nasty
surprise.

True, but I never said it was a safe way to do it. Just that it DOES
happen. I've seen one recently.

Really now, what is the sense of even mentioning it? It's not like he has
... oh, nevermind.

I mean like what is one to reply to such a post?

* * * * Here's the right way....
* * * * Here's a wrong way...
* * * * Here's a stupid way...
* * * * Here's an unsafe way...
* * * * Here's the way to do it in 1929...
* * * * Here's how to do it with DC...



My issue with the switched neutral post was that
it was just presented as a possible alternative
way it could be wired, without also saying that it's
unsafe, unusual and a code violation if it happened
to be wired up that way.

On 02/22/2012 09:00 AM, bud-- wrote:

[snip]

I have only seen it on K&T, but I don't think anything else was common
back then.

The one I saw uses NM installed about 1970. There is 2-conductor cable
going from each switch to the light. Only 1 conductor in each is used.

Another 3-way variant is a "California 3-way". It is much harder to
troubleshoot. It is completely legal.



--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"Intelligence is the only moral guide." -- Robert G. Ingersoll

On Feb 21, 7:47*pm, Mark Lloyd wrote:
On 02/20/2012 06:24 PM, Red Green wrote:

[snip]





Read other replies.

My 2¢

One common terminal ALWAYS goes to the line (power source) hot (usually
black).

The white from the line ALWAYS goes directly to the device being
controlled (ie light)

The the common terminal on the other 3 way switch ALWAYS goes to the hot
side of the device being controlled (ie light)

The travelers (other two screws on each switch) are connected to each
other.

This is not always true. There is one setup that's different. Both hot
and neutral connect to each switch (NOT to common). There is only one
traveler, between the common terminals with the light in the middle of it..

[snip]

--
Mark Lloydhttp://notstupid.us

"This crime called blasphemy was invented by priests for the purpose of
defending doctrines not able to take care of themselves." [Robert G.
Ingersoll]- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Mark, not with Red,Black and white wires.

Jimmie