So after the fiasco of having to search for a plumbing supply house that carried a PEX compression fitting in the right size for the hot water shut off under the kitchen sink, I should have known better.

But when the hot water shut-off in the downstairs bathroom started leaking, I went to the Big Box stores (plural) and found none of them carry a shut-off valve in the size I need. The largest they have for the incoming supply line is 5/8" diameter, and mine looks to be 3/4".

So, my question: who do I call down vengeance from God upon? My inclination is to blame the Big Box stores for not carrying a proper selection of shut-off valves. Or did the plumber use non-standard sizes when he ran all the water supply lines when the house was built?

Plumbers, weigh in, please!

On Feb 18, 3:51*pm, Kyle wrote:
So after the fiasco of having to search for a plumbing supply house that carried a PEX compression fitting in the right size for the hot water shut off under the kitchen sink, I should have known better.

But when the hot water shut-off in the downstairs bathroom started leaking, I went to the Big Box stores (plural) and found none of them carry a shut-off valve in the size I need. The largest they have for the incoming supply line is 5/8" diameter, and mine looks to be 3/4".

So, my question: who do I call down vengeance from God upon? My inclination is to blame the Big Box stores for not carrying a proper selection of shut-off valves. Or did the plumber use non-standard sizes when he ran all the water supply lines when the house was built?

Plumbers, weigh in, please!

On Feb 18, 3:51*pm, Kyle wrote:
So after the fiasco of having to search for a plumbing supply house that carried a PEX compression fitting in the right size for the hot water shut off under the kitchen sink, I should have known better.

But when the hot water shut-off in the downstairs bathroom started leaking, I went to the Big Box stores (plural) and found none of them carry a shut-off valve in the size I need. The largest they have for the incoming supply line is 5/8" diameter, and mine looks to be 3/4".

So, my question: who do I call down vengeance from God upon? My inclination is to blame the Big Box stores for not carrying a proper selection of shut-off valves. Or did the plumber use non-standard sizes when he ran all the water supply lines when the house was built?

Plumbers, weigh in, please!

.......looks to be 3/4"?.......

please clarify

On Feb 18, 7:34*pm, DD_BobK wrote:
On Feb 18, 3:51*pm, Kyle wrote:

So after the fiasco of having to search for a plumbing supply house that carried a PEX compression fitting in the right size for the hot water shut off under the kitchen sink, I should have known better.

But when the hot water shut-off in the downstairs bathroom started leaking, I went to the Big Box stores (plural) and found none of them carry a shut-off valve in the size I need. The largest they have for the incoming supply line is 5/8" diameter, and mine looks to be 3/4".


So, my question: who do I call down vengeance from God upon? My inclination is to blame the Big Box stores for not carrying a proper selection of shut-off valves. Or did the plumber use non-standard sizes when he ran all the water supply lines when the house was built?

It would seem rather odd for a plumber to come up
with a new dimension of PEX. Like, where would they
get it and the fittings? If it's 3/4" I would think
HD or Lowes would have a 3/4" PEX valve. If they don't,
just go to a plumbing supply.

What type of tubing are we discussing? Galvanized thread, sweat copper,
or?????

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Kyle" wrote in message
news:25766448.4453.1329609093426.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbkl3...
So after the fiasco of having to search for a plumbing supply house that
carried a PEX compression fitting in the right size for the hot water shut
off under the kitchen sink, I should have known better.

But when the hot water shut-off in the downstairs bathroom started leaking,
I went to the Big Box stores (plural) and found none of them carry a
shut-off valve in the size I need. The largest they have for the incoming
supply line is 5/8" diameter, and mine looks to be 3/4".

So, my question: who do I call down vengeance from God upon? My inclination
is to blame the Big Box stores for not carrying a proper selection of
shut-off valves. Or did the plumber use non-standard sizes when he ran all
the water supply lines when the house was built?

Plumbers, weigh in, please!

On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 07:45:41 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

What type of tubing are we discussing? Galvanized thread, sweat copper,
or?????

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Kyle" wrote in message
news:25766448.4453.1329609093426.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbkl3...
So after the fiasco of having to search for a plumbing supply house that
carried a PEX compression fitting in the right size for the hot water shut
off under the kitchen sink, I should have known better.

But when the hot water shut-off in the downstairs bathroom started leaking,
I went to the Big Box stores (plural) and found none of them carry a
shut-off valve in the size I need. The largest they have for the incoming
supply line is 5/8" diameter, and mine looks to be 3/4".

So, my question: who do I call down vengeance from God upon? My inclination
is to blame the Big Box stores for not carrying a proper selection of
shut-off valves. Or did the plumber use non-standard sizes when he ran all
the water supply lines when the house was built?

Plumbers, weigh in, please!


I've never seen 3/4" used for any residential faucet feed/shutoff.
Always 1/2".
Seen some toilets (older houses) use 3/8".

--Vic

On Feb 19, 7:45*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
What type of tubing are we discussing? Galvanized thread, sweat copper,
or?????



He did say: "PEX compression fitting in the right size for the hot
water shut off"

Pex is often spliced onto other tubing. Doesn't conclude that the whole
house is pex.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...
On Feb 19, 7:45 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
What type of tubing are we discussing? Galvanized thread, sweat copper,
or?????



He did say: "PEX compression fitting in the right size for the hot
water shut off"

On 2/18/2012 5:51 PM, Kyle wrote:
So after the fiasco of having to search for a plumbing supply house

that carried a PEX compression fitting in the right size for the hot water

shut off under the kitchen sink, I should have known better.

But when the hot water shut-off in the downstairs bathroom started

leaking, I went to the Big Box stores (plural) and found none of them

carry a shut-off valve in the size I need. The largest they have for the

incoming supply line is 5/8" diameter, and mine looks to be 3/4".

So, my question: who do I call down vengeance from God upon? My

inclination is to blame the Big Box stores for not carrying a proper

selection of shut-off valves. Or did the plumber use non-standard sizes

when he ran all the water supply lines when the house was built?

Plumbers, weigh in, please!


Kyle, good chance to investigate. Things are easier if you don't need
it to survive.

Figure out how to open up the case - this may require a set of cheap
vandal proof hex tips.

Once you're in there, check the continuity of the cord from the plug in
spades to the wire on the inside.

If good, then
check continuity through the switch - this will normally be the black wire.

If good, then
Check the continuity from the black lead to the far side of the thermal
fuse.

If good, then
disconnect the wires at the heating element. Ohm the two leads. It
should be some number below 50. If it is a huge number, it is probably
time to throw the whole thing away.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

I've found the answer to my question. It's the plumber who's to blame for the problem I have in trying to fix this leaky valve.

After a fruitless quest at two local plumbing supply stores and after going to the office of the builder who built this house in the mid-90s, I've learned the following:
(1) the plumbing in my house isn't PEX, it's polybutelyne. I know, I know, I've heard about the dangers of polybuteyne pinholing from too much chlorine in the water, but the builder assures me that was not Quest polybutelyne, and they've not had a problem in any of the 400+ houses they've built in the area that are run with Quest.
(2) the valve is Genova CPVC, and it looks like the downstairs bathroom was run with CPVC as well. Someone wanna tell me whether it was a bad idea or not for someone to connect CPVC to polybutelyne?
(3) no one within 80 miles sells Genova or even CPVC at all. No way I'm gonna pay to have the company overnight ship me a replacement valve.
(4) the guy at Northeast Plumbing Supply who I thought was giving me a good work-around using a different compression fitting didn't know enough to realize he'd mismatched the threading on the valve and the adaptor he sold me, and the compression fitting is loose. Drip, drip, drip.

Bottom line: tomorrow a plumber I've worked with on a couple Habitat For Humanity projects is coming in to fix this cluster-frell.

Thanks for the field report. Glad you got it figured out, before the leak
got any worse.

Water leaks are like tooth aches. They don't get better on their own,
usually.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Kyle" wrote in message
news:9256276.6382.1329769896581.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbbed8...
I've found the answer to my question. It's the plumber who's to blame for
the problem I have in trying to fix this leaky valve.

After a fruitless quest at two local plumbing supply stores and after going
to the office of the builder who built this house in the mid-90s, I've
learned the following:
(1) the plumbing in my house isn't PEX, it's polybutelyne. I know, I know,
I've heard about the dangers of polybuteyne pinholing from too much chlorine
in the water, but the builder assures me that was not Quest polybutelyne,
and they've not had a problem in any of the 400+ houses they've built in the
area that are run with Quest.
(2) the valve is Genova CPVC, and it looks like the downstairs bathroom was
run with CPVC as well. Someone wanna tell me whether it was a bad idea or
not for someone to connect CPVC to polybutelyne?
(3) no one within 80 miles sells Genova or even CPVC at all. No way I'm
gonna pay to have the company overnight ship me a replacement valve.
(4) the guy at Northeast Plumbing Supply who I thought was giving me a good
work-around using a different compression fitting didn't know enough to
realize he'd mismatched the threading on the valve and the adaptor he sold
me, and the compression fitting is loose. Drip, drip, drip.

Bottom line: tomorrow a plumber I've worked with on a couple Habitat For
Humanity projects is coming in to fix this cluster-frell.

On Sunday, February 19, 2012 11:40:37 PM UTC-5, DanG wrote:
On 2/18/2012 5:51 PM, Kyle wrote:
So after the fiasco of having to search for a plumbing supply house

that carried a PEX compression fitting in the right size for the hot water

shut off under the kitchen sink, I should have known better.

But when the hot water shut-off in the downstairs bathroom started

leaking, I went to the Big Box stores (plural) and found none of them

carry a shut-off valve in the size I need. The largest they have for the

incoming supply line is 5/8" diameter, and mine looks to be 3/4".

So, my question: who do I call down vengeance from God upon? My

inclination is to blame the Big Box stores for not carrying a proper

selection of shut-off valves. Or did the plumber use non-standard sizes

when he ran all the water supply lines when the house was built?

Plumbers, weigh in, please!


Kyle, good chance to investigate. Things are easier if you don't need
it to survive.

Figure out how to open up the case - this may require a set of cheap
vandal proof hex tips.

Once you're in there, check the continuity of the cord from the plug in
spades to the wire on the inside.

If good, then
check continuity through the switch - this will normally be the black wire.

If good, then
Check the continuity from the black lead to the far side of the thermal
fuse.

If good, then
disconnect the wires at the heating element. Ohm the two leads. It
should be some number below 50. If it is a huge number, it is probably
time to throw the whole thing away.



Dan, are you suggesting I introduce electricity into my sink's supply lines?!? heh!

This was too funny. Sounds like you were answering someone's water heater problem? Hope you got the post to the correct forum and questioner!