Hi-
I have just finished coating an old iron soil pipe with fiberglass
cloth. The pipe was badly blistered and I felt it would start to leak
in several places soon.
A problem has occurred because in one spot it had already started
to leak. Of course the fiberglass would not set there. The toilet was
of course not being used when the fiberglass was applied, but even
though the ball valve seems to seal perfectly, there always seems to
be a little "weeping" that allows a trickle to get into the soil pipe.
I know I may have to drain the toilet completely, but that brings me
to my question: Is it possible to seal a wet hole from the outside
with one of the wetseal putties, such as JB Waterweld? Has anybody
tried in a similar application to mine? Even with no water pressure I
can't imagine an epoxy that will stick to a wet surface.
It would be nice not to have to drain the toilet. Help much
appreciated!
Frank

On Oct 26, 8:22*pm, frank1492 wrote:
Hi-
* * I have just finished coating an old iron soil pipe with fiberglass
cloth. The pipe was badly blistered and I felt it would start to leak
in several places soon.
* * A problem has occurred because in one spot it had already started
to leak. Of course the fiberglass would not set there. The toilet was
of course not being used when the fiberglass was applied, but even
though the ball valve seems to seal perfectly, *there always seems to
be a little "weeping" that allows a trickle to get into the soil pipe.
I know I may have to drain the toilet completely, but that brings me
to my question: Is it possible to seal a wet hole from the outside
with one of the wetseal putties, such as JB Waterweld? Has anybody
tried in a similar application to mine? Even with no water pressure I
can't imagine an epoxy that will stick to a wet surface.
* * *It would be nice not to have to drain the toilet. Help much
appreciated!
* * *Frank

If it is leaking, the flapper valve must not be seating properly Fix
that first!!!

Once in a while, on this list, there is a blinding
flash of obvious.

That said, the OP might be able to do some
temp patch with a Fermco coupler, cut length
wise.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"hr(bob) "
wrote in message
...

If it is leaking, the flapper valve must not be seating
properly Fix
that first!!!

Fix the flapper is a good idea. Or, you can shut off the
water below the tank. Most toilets have a shut off.

I havn't tried those patches. Fermco coupler might do the
job.

I doubt plaster of paris would make a water tight seal, but
at least it's water activated.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"frank1492" wrote in message
...
Hi-
I have just finished coating an old iron soil pipe with
fiberglass
cloth. The pipe was badly blistered and I felt it would
start to leak
in several places soon.
A problem has occurred because in one spot it had
already started
to leak. Of course the fiberglass would not set there. The
toilet was
of course not being used when the fiberglass was applied,
but even
though the ball valve seems to seal perfectly, there always
seems to
be a little "weeping" that allows a trickle to get into the
soil pipe.
I know I may have to drain the toilet completely, but that
brings me
to my question: Is it possible to seal a wet hole from the
outside
with one of the wetseal putties, such as JB Waterweld? Has
anybody
tried in a similar application to mine? Even with no water
pressure I
can't imagine an epoxy that will stick to a wet surface.
It would be nice not to have to drain the toilet. Help
much
appreciated!
Frank

On Oct 26, 9:22*pm, frank1492 wrote:
Hi-
* * I have just finished coating an old iron soil pipe with fiberglass
cloth. The pipe was badly blistered and I felt it would start to leak
in several places soon.
* * A problem has occurred because in one spot it had already started
to leak. Of course the fiberglass would not set there. The toilet was
of course not being used when the fiberglass was applied, but even
though the ball valve seems to seal perfectly, *there always seems to
be a little "weeping" that allows a trickle to get into the soil pipe.
I know I may have to drain the toilet completely, but that brings me
to my question: Is it possible to seal a wet hole from the outside
with one of the wetseal putties, such as JB Waterweld? Has anybody
tried in a similar application to mine? Even with no water pressure I
can't imagine an epoxy that will stick to a wet surface.
* * *It would be nice not to have to drain the toilet. Help much
appreciated!
* * *Frank

@Frank1492:

You have just finished wasting your time when you should have
called a plumber in to cut out the rusted section of soil stack
and replace it with a new section of the same cast iron pipe using
Fernco couplers...

Would have taken a lot less time to do and would fix the problem
permanently rather than merely channel the leaks through a specific
place you couldn't get the fiberglass to stick to...

~~ Evan

On 10/26/2011 6:22 PM, frank1492 wrote:
Hi-
I have just finished coating an old iron soil pipe with fiberglass
cloth. The pipe was badly blistered and I felt it would start to leak
in several places soon.
A problem has occurred because in one spot it had already started
to leak. Of course the fiberglass would not set there. The toilet was
of course not being used when the fiberglass was applied, but even
though the ball valve seems to seal perfectly, there always seems to
be a little "weeping" that allows a trickle to get into the soil pipe.
I know I may have to drain the toilet completely, but that brings me
to my question: Is it possible to seal a wet hole from the outside
with one of the wetseal putties, such as JB Waterweld? Has anybody
tried in a similar application to mine? Even with no water pressure I
can't imagine an epoxy that will stick to a wet surface.
It would be nice not to have to drain the toilet. Help much
appreciated!
Frank

you don't have to "drain" the toilet. Just turn the water to it off,
then flush it and hold the handle down. there, no more seepy seepy.
Now fix the drain and the flapper.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Personally, I would call a plumber.

Having said that, I have used several different types of epoxy/
adhesive compounds to seal "wet" leaks on boats and on outdoor
irrigation lines. All have worked fine, leaks fixed -- one that I did
on a friend's sprinkler line in 1989 is still "holding."

I just would not want to trust this with a toilet application, even
though I understand it is a no-pressure line, etc.

The obvious solution as suggested was to drain the toilet which I have
just done. I expected I would have to do that but just wondered if
anyone had experience with the underwater epoxies. I'll grind away the
failed fiberglass and drain the wet cavity under the hole, wait for
the hole to dry up good, and apply new glass making sure it is firmly
against the hole, maybe filling it with a little epoxy putty first.
A comment: I thought the purpose of this group was to encourage
the homeowner to save money by doing things him/herself?? Then why do
some people persist in recommending that a professional be called
($100 to just go through the door) *especially* in a dick-simple
situation like this? Nothing dangerous here, just a pipe with no
pressure, not rocket science. I realize I did something stupid the
first time but now it should be a piece of cake. And I reject the idea
that it won't be permanent if done right.
Again thanks to you all for your ideas.
Frank.






On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 21:22:04 -0400, frank1492
wrote:

Hi-
I have just finished coating an old iron soil pipe with fiberglass
cloth. The pipe was badly blistered and I felt it would start to leak
in several places soon.
A problem has occurred because in one spot it had already started
to leak. Of course the fiberglass would not set there. The toilet was
of course not being used when the fiberglass was applied, but even
though the ball valve seems to seal perfectly, there always seems to
be a little "weeping" that allows a trickle to get into the soil pipe.
I know I may have to drain the toilet completely, but that brings me
to my question: Is it possible to seal a wet hole from the outside
with one of the wetseal putties, such as JB Waterweld? Has anybody
tried in a similar application to mine? Even with no water pressure I
can't imagine an epoxy that will stick to a wet surface.
It would be nice not to have to drain the toilet. Help much
appreciated!
Frank

frank1492 writes:

The obvious solution as suggested was to drain the toilet which I have
just done. I expected I would have to do that but just wondered if
anyone had experience with the underwater epoxies. I'll grind away the
failed fiberglass and drain the wet cavity under the hole, wait for
the hole to dry up good, and apply new glass making sure it is firmly
against the hole, maybe filling it with a little epoxy putty first.
A comment: I thought the purpose of this group was to encourage
the homeowner to save money by doing things him/herself?? Then why do
some people persist in recommending that a professional be called
($100 to just go through the door) *especially* in a dick-simple
situation like this? Nothing dangerous here, just a pipe with no
pressure, not rocket science. I realize I did something stupid the
first time but now it should be a piece of cake. And I reject the idea
that it won't be permanent if done right.

I think you got the "get a plumber" comment because you are trying to
patch up something that should be replaced.

You really should cut out the section that's leaking and use those
rubber Fernco couplings to put a new section in.


--
Dan Espen

On Oct 27, 9:58*am, wrote:
frank1492 writes:
The obvious solution as suggested was to drain the toilet which I have
just done. I expected I would have to do that but just wondered if
anyone had experience with the underwater epoxies. I'll grind away the
failed fiberglass and drain the wet cavity under the hole, wait for
the hole to dry up good, and apply new glass making sure it is firmly
against the hole, maybe filling it with a little epoxy putty first.
* * A comment: I thought the purpose of this group was to encourage
the homeowner to save money by doing things him/herself?? Then why do
some people persist in recommending that a professional be called
($100 to just go through the door) *especially* in a dick-simple
situation like this? Nothing dangerous here, just a pipe with no
pressure, not rocket science. I realize I did something stupid the
first time but now it should be a piece of cake. And I reject the idea
that it won't be permanent if done right.

I think you got the "get a plumber" comment because you are trying to
patch up something that should be replaced.

You really should cut out the section that's leaking and use those
rubber Fernco couplings to put a new section in.

--
Dan Espen

If the one section is corroded through, how long before the whole pipe
starts leaking? Maybe even below the floor or wall that it goes
through on its way to the main sewer line.

"hr(bob) " writes:

On Oct 27, 9:58Â*am, wrote:
frank1492 writes:
The obvious solution as suggested was to drain the toilet which I have
just done. I expected I would have to do that but just wondered if
anyone had experience with the underwater epoxies. I'll grind away the
failed fiberglass and drain the wet cavity under the hole, wait for
the hole to dry up good, and apply new glass making sure it is firmly
against the hole, maybe filling it with a little epoxy putty first.
Â* Â* A comment: I thought the purpose of this group was to encourage
the homeowner to save money by doing things him/herself?? Then why do
some people persist in recommending that a professional be called
($100 to just go through the door) *especially* in a dick-simple
situation like this? Nothing dangerous here, just a pipe with no
pressure, not rocket science. I realize I did something stupid the
first time but now it should be a piece of cake. And I reject the idea
that it won't be permanent if done right.

I think you got the "get a plumber" comment because you are trying to
patch up something that should be replaced.

You really should cut out the section that's leaking and use those
rubber Fernco couplings to put a new section in.

If the one section is corroded through, how long before the whole pipe
starts leaking? Maybe even below the floor or wall that it goes
through on its way to the main sewer line.

Agree 100%.

Expose until you no longer see damage, then connect to the good parts.
Someone else suggested replacing with iron (like it is now).

I'd go with PVC. It's a much more durable material.

--
Dan Espen

Hi-
It is true that the entire soil pipe that resides outside the
house has many blisters to the point where it runs inside through
cinder blocks. The part inside the house looks nowhere near as bad,
and the house has a "Cape Cod cellar" (dirt) anyway.
The part outside the house is subject to the weather as it is only
surrounded by a lattice and the back steps..
We are only talking about 5' or so from the toilet to the point of
entry. I did anticipate that this would start to leak- maybe soon- so
I have already fiberglassed most of it as a precaution. I do not think
I will hear from this again in my lifetime...I'm 68...
I will address the hole tomorrow (again.) If I fail to get a good
seal assuming there is no longer water dripping and using underwater
epoxy just in case followed by fiberglass, I will revert to the Fernco
approach.
Thanks all again.
Frank













On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 21:22:04 -0400, frank1492
wrote:

Hi-
I have just finished coating an old iron soil pipe with fiberglass
cloth. The pipe was badly blistered and I felt it would start to leak
in several places soon.
A problem has occurred because in one spot it had already started
to leak. Of course the fiberglass would not set there. The toilet was
of course not being used when the fiberglass was applied, but even
though the ball valve seems to seal perfectly, there always seems to
be a little "weeping" that allows a trickle to get into the soil pipe.
I know I may have to drain the toilet completely, but that brings me
to my question: Is it possible to seal a wet hole from the outside
with one of the wetseal putties, such as JB Waterweld? Has anybody
tried in a similar application to mine? Even with no water pressure I
can't imagine an epoxy that will stick to a wet surface.
It would be nice not to have to drain the toilet. Help much
appreciated!
Frank

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 23:43:50 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Fix the flapper is a good idea. Or, you can shut off the
water below the tank. Most toilets have a shut off.

I havn't tried those patches. Fermco coupler might do the
job.

I doubt plaster of paris would make a water tight seal, but
at least it's water activated.
Get a plumber in and replace ALL of the cast iron with Plastic.

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 21:22:04 -0400, frank1492
wrote:

Hi-
I have just finished coating an old iron soil pipe with fiberglass
cloth. The pipe was badly blistered and I felt it would start to leak
in several places soon.
A problem has occurred because in one spot it had already started
to leak. Of course the fiberglass would not set there. The toilet was
of course not being used when the fiberglass was applied, but even
though the ball valve seems to seal perfectly, there always seems to
be a little "weeping" that allows a trickle to get into the soil pipe.
I know I may have to drain the toilet completely, but that brings me
to my question: Is it possible to seal a wet hole from the outside
with one of the wetseal putties, such as JB Waterweld? Has anybody
tried in a similar application to mine? Even with no water pressure I
can't imagine an epoxy that will stick to a wet surface.
It would be nice not to have to drain the toilet. Help much
appreciated!
Frank


My local pool store sells some stuff (think it's called poxy putty)
that is a two part epoxy for use under water. Seems like something
like that should work to make the initial repair and then cover it
with your fiberglass.

On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 10:58:25 -0400, wrote:

frank1492 writes:

The obvious solution as suggested was to drain the toilet which I have
just done. I expected I would have to do that but just wondered if
anyone had experience with the underwater epoxies. I'll grind away the
failed fiberglass and drain the wet cavity under the hole, wait for
the hole to dry up good, and apply new glass making sure it is firmly
against the hole, maybe filling it with a little epoxy putty first.
A comment: I thought the purpose of this group was to encourage
the homeowner to save money by doing things him/herself?? Then why do
some people persist in recommending that a professional be called
($100 to just go through the door) *especially* in a dick-simple
situation like this? Nothing dangerous here, just a pipe with no
pressure, not rocket science. I realize I did something stupid the
first time but now it should be a piece of cake. And I reject the idea
that it won't be permanent if done right.

I think you got the "get a plumber" comment because you are trying to
patch up something that should be replaced.

You really should cut out the section that's leaking and use those
rubber Fernco couplings to put a new section in.

There are valid points on both sides, repair vs replace, but my
experience is that a lot of things will last a long long time if
repaired. And when you start in doing REPLACE on old stuff like this
you may find that there is no end to the "bad" when you start trying
to get back to a "good" area. I generally prefer to avoid messing
with old stuff that's still working if a small patch will keep it
going. Obviously there is a point where that's no longer possible.

On Oct 27, 10:35*am, frank1492 wrote:
The obvious solution as suggested was to drain the toilet which I have
just done. I expected I would have to do that but just wondered if
anyone had experience with the underwater epoxies. I'll grind away the
failed fiberglass and drain the wet cavity under the hole, wait for
the hole to dry up good, and apply new glass making sure it is firmly
against the hole, maybe filling it with a little epoxy putty first.
* * A comment: I thought the purpose of this group was to encourage
the homeowner to save money by doing things him/herself?? Then why do
some people persist in recommending that a professional be called
($100 to just go through the door) *especially* in a dick-simple
situation like this? Nothing dangerous here, just a pipe with no
pressure, not rocket science. I realize I did something stupid the
first time but now it should be a piece of cake. And I reject the idea
that it won't be permanent if done right.
* *Again thanks to you all for your ideas.
* * * * *Frank.

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 21:22:04 -0400, frank1492
wrote:



Hi-
* *I have just finished coating an old iron soil pipe with fiberglass
cloth. The pipe was badly blistered and I felt it would start to leak
in several places soon.
* *A problem has occurred because in one spot it had already started
to leak. Of course the fiberglass would not set there. The toilet was
of course not being used when the fiberglass was applied, but even
though the ball valve seems to seal perfectly, *there always seems to
be a little "weeping" that allows a trickle to get into the soil pipe.
I know I may have to drain the toilet completely, but that brings me
to my question: Is it possible to seal a wet hole from the outside
with one of the wetseal putties, such as JB Waterweld? Has anybody
tried in a similar application to mine? Even with no water pressure I
can't imagine an epoxy that will stick to a wet surface.
* * It would be nice not to have to drain the toilet. Help much
appreciated!
* * Frank- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"I thought the purpose of this group was to encourage the
homeowner to save money by doing things him/herself? Then why do some
people persist in recommending that a professional be called...?"

OK, let's split the difference:

In this case the homeowner (you) should have asked him/herself (or
this group) "How would a professional deal with this situation?"

I doubt the answer from any source would have been "Wrap the leaky
pipe in fiberglass."

Perhaps some folks suggested calling a plumber since it appears (and
please don't take this the wrong way - after all, you did come here
asking for help) that you did not know the correct solution to the
problem yet moved ahead anyway. Therefore it might be safer for all
involved to leave it to the professionals.

Exactly what I did. I used JB Waterweld then fiberglass. Looks like
this worked very well.




On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 09:24:03 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote:

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 21:22:04 -0400, frank1492
wrote:

Hi-
I have just finished coating an old iron soil pipe with fiberglass
cloth. The pipe was badly blistered and I felt it would start to leak
in several places soon.
A problem has occurred because in one spot it had already started
to leak. Of course the fiberglass would not set there. The toilet was
of course not being used when the fiberglass was applied, but even
though the ball valve seems to seal perfectly, there always seems to
be a little "weeping" that allows a trickle to get into the soil pipe.
I know I may have to drain the toilet completely, but that brings me
to my question: Is it possible to seal a wet hole from the outside
with one of the wetseal putties, such as JB Waterweld? Has anybody
tried in a similar application to mine? Even with no water pressure I
can't imagine an epoxy that will stick to a wet surface.
It would be nice not to have to drain the toilet. Help much
appreciated!
Frank


My local pool store sells some stuff (think it's called poxy putty)
that is a two part epoxy for use under water. Seems like something
like that should work to make the initial repair and then cover it
with your fiberglass.

My thoughts exactly. I believe I have saved tens of $1000s, maybe
hundreds of $1000s in my lifetime by repairing, sometimes quite
unconventionally. And many of these have lasted extremely well.
The problem with professionals is that they always want to do a
job according to some standard technique, which generally means that
they will insist you replace "all of it" to prevent future problems
(which may never occur.)
Take my soil pipe with only 5 feet that really looked bad. I
could see a professional insisting that I replace *all* the pipe in a
job that might cost $1000s. In an hour or so I covered the bad 5 feet
with fiberglass with no complications, except for the 1" that had a
hole in it that took a little more effort. I really don't expect to
hear from this pipe again in the 20 or fewer years I think I have
left.
My father was a genius in home repair. His favorite line was
"They always want to make a big deal of everything." 'Nuff said.






On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 09:29:07 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 10:58:25 -0400, wrote:

frank1492 writes:

The obvious solution as suggested was to drain the toilet which I have
just done. I expected I would have to do that but just wondered if
anyone had experience with the underwater epoxies. I'll grind away the
failed fiberglass and drain the wet cavity under the hole, wait for
the hole to dry up good, and apply new glass making sure it is firmly
against the hole, maybe filling it with a little epoxy putty first.
A comment: I thought the purpose of this group was to encourage
the homeowner to save money by doing things him/herself?? Then why do
some people persist in recommending that a professional be called
($100 to just go through the door) *especially* in a dick-simple
situation like this? Nothing dangerous here, just a pipe with no
pressure, not rocket science. I realize I did something stupid the
first time but now it should be a piece of cake. And I reject the idea
that it won't be permanent if done right.

I think you got the "get a plumber" comment because you are trying to
patch up something that should be replaced.

You really should cut out the section that's leaking and use those
rubber Fernco couplings to put a new section in.

There are valid points on both sides, repair vs replace, but my
experience is that a lot of things will last a long long time if
repaired. And when you start in doing REPLACE on old stuff like this
you may find that there is no end to the "bad" when you start trying
to get back to a "good" area. I generally prefer to avoid messing
with old stuff that's still working if a small patch will keep it
going. Obviously there is a point where that's no longer possible.

On 10/29/2011 12:08 AM, frank1492 wrote:
My thoughts exactly. I believe I have saved tens of $1000s, maybe
hundreds of $1000s in my lifetime by repairing, sometimes quite
unconventionally. And many of these have lasted extremely well.
The problem with professionals is that they always want to do a
job according to some standard technique, which generally means that
they will insist you replace "all of it" to prevent future problems
(which may never occur.)
Take my soil pipe with only 5 feet that really looked bad. I
could see a professional insisting that I replace *all* the pipe in a
job that might cost $1000s. In an hour or so I covered the bad 5 feet
with fiberglass with no complications, except for the 1" that had a
hole in it that took a little more effort. I really don't expect to
hear from this pipe again in the 20 or fewer years I think I have
left.
My father was a genius in home repair. His favorite line was
"They always want to make a big deal of everything." 'Nuff said.




As much as I admire McGyver (sp?) solutions, there is a reason codes and
inspections were put in place (other than as a profit center for local
governments). See http://www.ashi.org/media/press/release094.asp for
examples. Or just Google 'home inspection horror stories' or ' there, i
fixed it' for more examples.

An expert operating outside their area of expertise is often more
dangerous than a layman, because the layman KNOWS that they do not know.

Hey, I do non-standard/'temporary' repairs at times, as well. But never
on stuff where somebody could die, or the house could get destroyed.
Sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and get it fixed right.

--
aem sends....

On 10/29/2011 3:03 AM, aemeijers wrote:
On 10/29/2011 12:08 AM, frank1492 wrote:
My thoughts exactly. I believe I have saved tens of $1000s, maybe
hundreds of $1000s in my lifetime by repairing, sometimes quite
unconventionally. And many of these have lasted extremely well.
The problem with professionals is that they always want to do a
job according to some standard technique, which generally means that
they will insist you replace "all of it" to prevent future problems
(which may never occur.)
Take my soil pipe with only 5 feet that really looked bad. I
could see a professional insisting that I replace *all* the pipe in a
job that might cost $1000s. In an hour or so I covered the bad 5 feet
with fiberglass with no complications, except for the 1" that had a
hole in it that took a little more effort. I really don't expect to
hear from this pipe again in the 20 or fewer years I think I have
left.
My father was a genius in home repair. His favorite line was
"They always want to make a big deal of everything." 'Nuff said.




As much as I admire McGyver (sp?) solutions, there is a reason codes and
inspections were put in place (other than as a profit center for local
governments). See http://www.ashi.org/media/press/release094.asp for
examples. Or just Google 'home inspection horror stories' or ' there, i
fixed it' for more examples.

An expert operating outside their area of expertise is often more
dangerous than a layman, because the layman KNOWS that they do not know.

Hey, I do non-standard/'temporary' repairs at times, as well. But never
on stuff where somebody could die, or the house could get destroyed.
Sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and get it fixed right.


Better search string, under Google images- 'home inspection nightmares'.

On 10/29/2011 12:08 AM, frank1492 wrote:
My thoughts exactly. I believe I have saved tens of $1000s, maybe
hundreds of $1000s in my lifetime by repairing, sometimes quite
unconventionally. And many of these have lasted extremely well.
The problem with professionals is that they always want to do a
job according to some standard technique, which generally means that
they will insist you replace "all of it" to prevent future problems
(which may never occur.)


But you are doing it yourself so you can decide. Generally doing it
yourself means doing what a pro would do only you supply the know how
and labor.

Take my soil pipe with only 5 feet that really looked bad. I
could see a professional insisting that I replace *all* the pipe in a
job that might cost $1000s. In an hour or so I covered the bad 5 feet
with fiberglass with no complications, except for the 1" that had a
hole in it that took a little more effort. I really don't expect to
hear from this pipe again in the 20 or fewer years I think I have
left.
My father was a genius in home repair. His favorite line was
"They always want to make a big deal of everything." 'Nuff said.


Years of experience of not doing stuff the right way has confirmed that
again and again.






On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 09:29:07 -0700, Ashton
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Oct 2011 10:58:25 -0400, wrote:

writes:

The obvious solution as suggested was to drain the toilet which I have
just done. I expected I would have to do that but just wondered if
anyone had experience with the underwater epoxies. I'll grind away the
failed fiberglass and drain the wet cavity under the hole, wait for
the hole to dry up good, and apply new glass making sure it is firmly
against the hole, maybe filling it with a little epoxy putty first.
A comment: I thought the purpose of this group was to encourage
the homeowner to save money by doing things him/herself?? Then why do
some people persist in recommending that a professional be called
($100 to just go through the door) *especially* in a dick-simple
situation like this? Nothing dangerous here, just a pipe with no
pressure, not rocket science. I realize I did something stupid the
first time but now it should be a piece of cake. And I reject the idea
that it won't be permanent if done right.

I think you got the "get a plumber" comment because you are trying to
patch up something that should be replaced.

You really should cut out the section that's leaking and use those
rubber Fernco couplings to put a new section in.

There are valid points on both sides, repair vs replace, but my
experience is that a lot of things will last a long long time if
repaired. And when you start in doing REPLACE on old stuff like this
you may find that there is no end to the "bad" when you start trying
to get back to a "good" area. I generally prefer to avoid messing
with old stuff that's still working if a small patch will keep it
going. Obviously there is a point where that's no longer possible.