OK... almost have friend's HVAC back into shape... both furnace and A/C
are clean and operating properly... he has a humidifier however that is
installed *between* the supply and return plenums (that is, it's
installed on the supply plenum, but in the space between the two) with
no room to spare (I can barely get my fingers between the unit and the
return plenum,) the only reason I can even identify it is because the
label is on the side facing out into the utility room where I can see it
with a flashlight. I'd like to clean it and get a new water panel for
it but the googles are not working for me... seems that Carrier is more
cagey than, say, Aprilaire about making information available to
consumers. I really just want to know how to get the case apart without
breaking it, since I can't actually see anything and who knows where the
hell my inspection mirror got off to.

Allied Products Division
Division of Carrier Corporation
Knoxville, Tennessee
Model: P110-0049FH

It looks for all the world like it's nearly the same in design and
function to the Aprilaire fan-type humidifiers that we all know and
love, but it doesn't have the little thumb latch to release the outside
of the case (and if it did, there's not enough clearance to get it out
anyway.)

If anyone has one of these buggers and can give me a pointer I'd
appreciate it, or even better if your googling skills are better than
mine and can find a service document for it, that'd be fantastic. I
also suspect that it's wired incorrectly as when I crank the humidistat
knob over it comes on even though the fan is not running. I still have
yet to identify his furnace (I posted about that previously) as I can't
find an ID label on it anywhere, but cleaning the A-coil seems to have
resolved the short cycling problem so that is less urgent. Although if
I need to do some rewiring I guess I will have to revisit that issue as
well.

Oh, and yes, I KNOW this is a dumbass installation, you don't need to
tell me.

thanks

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Makes me wonder if the cover snaps off? Might have to
unscrew one of the ducts to get at the humidifier. Sounds
like you say, a poor install.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
OK... almost have friend's HVAC back into shape... both
furnace and A/C
are clean and operating properly... he has a humidifier
however that is
installed *between* the supply and return plenums (that is,
it's
installed on the supply plenum, but in the space between the
two) with
no room to spare (I can barely get my fingers between the
unit and the
return plenum,) the only reason I can even identify it is
because the
label is on the side facing out into the utility room where
I can see it
with a flashlight. I'd like to clean it and get a new water
panel for
it but the googles are not working for me... seems that
Carrier is more
cagey than, say, Aprilaire about making information
available to
consumers. I really just want to know how to get the case
apart without
breaking it, since I can't actually see anything and who
knows where the
hell my inspection mirror got off to.

Allied Products Division
Division of Carrier Corporation
Knoxville, Tennessee
Model: P110-0049FH

It looks for all the world like it's nearly the same in
design and
function to the Aprilaire fan-type humidifiers that we all
know and
love, but it doesn't have the little thumb latch to release
the outside
of the case (and if it did, there's not enough clearance to
get it out
anyway.)

If anyone has one of these buggers and can give me a pointer
I'd
appreciate it, or even better if your googling skills are
better than
mine and can find a service document for it, that'd be
fantastic. I
also suspect that it's wired incorrectly as when I crank the
humidistat
knob over it comes on even though the fan is not running. I
still have
yet to identify his furnace (I posted about that previously)
as I can't
find an ID label on it anywhere, but cleaning the A-coil
seems to have
resolved the short cycling problem so that is less urgent.
Although if
I need to do some rewiring I guess I will have to revisit
that issue as
well.

Oh, and yes, I KNOW this is a dumbass installation, you
don't need to
tell me.

thanks

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 10/23/2011 09:52 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Makes me wonder if the cover snaps off? Might have to
unscrew one of the ducts to get at the humidifier. Sounds
like you say, a poor install.


Ugh...

I think I found it. after dragging out a stepstool and sticking my head
farther in there it looks like it's held on by four flathead screws.
unfortunately I don't have a right angle screwdriver handy (I have one,
but it's probably in a roll cabinet in my storage locker.)
Additionally, the humidifier is fed by 120VAC from the "emergency
shutoff" switch through a sail switch in the return (why not tap it off
the furnace control board somewhere?) then through a transformer screwed
to the return plenum and from there to the humidistat. The sail switch
is stuck in the "on" position so that needs to be fixed somehow, and
even worse, whoever wired it up tied that 120VAC to the always hot wire
in the emergency shutoff box not the switched side. And left unstapled
romex laying on top of the supply duct.

Ever have one of those days where you wish you could just pretend you'd
never seen anything and walk away?

Oh, I finally found the model number of the furnace - it's a Rheem
RGEB-06EC-FS. Unfortunately that seems to be not helpful as finding a
manual or a wiring diagram online is still not happening. Why are
mfgrs. so cagey about giving out this information? The furnace at my
old place was nice, just had a terminal on the control board marked
"HUM." and a few minutes with a multimeter revealed that that was 120VAC
that was only live when there was a heat call and the blower was
running, et voila, problem solved. This one, not so much.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

You're supposed to call a highly priced, certified, paid his
fees, authorized certified dealer who wears expensive
uniform, drives a new van, and has all the latest computer
crap. Paid for, of course, by YOU.

Sounds like you know more about this than the installer did.
Good, on you!

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...


Ugh...

I think I found it. after dragging out a stepstool and
sticking my head
farther in there it looks like it's held on by four flathead
screws.
unfortunately I don't have a right angle screwdriver handy
(I have one,
but it's probably in a roll cabinet in my storage locker.)
Additionally, the humidifier is fed by 120VAC from the
"emergency
shutoff" switch through a sail switch in the return (why not
tap it off
the furnace control board somewhere?) then through a
transformer screwed
to the return plenum and from there to the humidistat. The
sail switch
is stuck in the "on" position so that needs to be fixed
somehow, and
even worse, whoever wired it up tied that 120VAC to the
always hot wire
in the emergency shutoff box not the switched side. And
left unstapled
romex laying on top of the supply duct.

Ever have one of those days where you wish you could just
pretend you'd
never seen anything and walk away?

Oh, I finally found the model number of the furnace - it's a
Rheem
RGEB-06EC-FS. Unfortunately that seems to be not helpful as
finding a
manual or a wiring diagram online is still not happening.
Why are
mfgrs. so cagey about giving out this information? The
furnace at my
old place was nice, just had a terminal on the control board
marked
"HUM." and a few minutes with a multimeter revealed that
that was 120VAC
that was only live when there was a heat call and the blower
was
running, et voila, problem solved. This one, not so much.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Oct 23, 10:52*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
You're supposed to call a highly priced, certified, paid his
fees, authorized certified dealer who wears expensive
uniform, drives a new van, and has all the latest computer
crap. Paid for, of course, by YOU.

Sounds like you know more about this than the installer did.
Good, on you!

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message

...

Ugh...

I think I found it. *after dragging out a stepstool and
sticking my head
farther in there it looks like it's held on by four flathead
screws.
unfortunately I don't have a right angle screwdriver handy
(I have one,
but it's probably in a roll cabinet in my storage locker.)
Additionally, the humidifier is fed by 120VAC from the
"emergency
shutoff" switch through a sail switch in the return (why not
tap it off
the furnace control board somewhere?) then through a
transformer screwed
to the return plenum and from there to the humidistat. *The
sail switch
is stuck in the "on" position so that needs to be fixed
somehow, and
even worse, whoever wired it up tied that 120VAC to the
always hot wire
in the emergency shutoff box not the switched side. *And
left unstapled
romex laying on top of the supply duct.

Ever have one of those days where you wish you could just
pretend you'd
never seen anything and walk away?

Oh, I finally found the model number of the furnace - it's a
Rheem
RGEB-06EC-FS. *Unfortunately that seems to be not helpful as
finding a
manual or a wiring diagram online is still not happening.
Why are
mfgrs. so cagey about giving out this information? *The
furnace at my
old place was nice, just had a terminal on the control board
marked
"HUM." and a few minutes with a multimeter revealed that
that was 120VAC
that was only live when there was a heat call and the blower
was
running, et voila, problem solved. *This one, not so much.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Actually it is not as dumbass an installation as I initially thought.
It is tight but after investigation, poking, prodding, etc. I find
that the *bottom* of the thing comes off with a thumbscrew for water
panel replacement. Of course I found this out after I took it out the
top which involved lots of contortions and getting little bits of
disintegrating, lime-coated metal mesh all over the place due to
having to push it up into the joist bays and then finagle it out over
the top of the ductwork. Oh well it's done now, just need to find
what water panel this thing takes and hopefully I can get it working
again - because putting an Aprilaire unit in there is not going to
happen. Really, the only practical installation of one of those would
involve cutting an access panel into the drywall in the downstairs
foyer, which I'm assuming the owner of the house would dislike

Oh, and I don't like the saddle valve either, but one thing at a
time...

nate