On Oct 23, 10:52*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
You're supposed to call a highly priced, certified, paid his
fees, authorized certified dealer who wears expensive
uniform, drives a new van, and has all the latest computer
crap. Paid for, of course, by YOU.

Sounds like you know more about this than the installer did.
Good, on you!

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message

...

Ugh...

I think I found it. *after dragging out a stepstool and
sticking my head
farther in there it looks like it's held on by four flathead
screws.
unfortunately I don't have a right angle screwdriver handy
(I have one,
but it's probably in a roll cabinet in my storage locker.)
Additionally, the humidifier is fed by 120VAC from the
"emergency
shutoff" switch through a sail switch in the return (why not
tap it off
the furnace control board somewhere?) then through a
transformer screwed
to the return plenum and from there to the humidistat. *The
sail switch
is stuck in the "on" position so that needs to be fixed
somehow, and
even worse, whoever wired it up tied that 120VAC to the
always hot wire
in the emergency shutoff box not the switched side. *And
left unstapled
romex laying on top of the supply duct.

Ever have one of those days where you wish you could just
pretend you'd
never seen anything and walk away?

Oh, I finally found the model number of the furnace - it's a
Rheem
RGEB-06EC-FS. *Unfortunately that seems to be not helpful as
finding a
manual or a wiring diagram online is still not happening.
Why are
mfgrs. so cagey about giving out this information? *The
furnace at my
old place was nice, just had a terminal on the control board
marked
"HUM." and a few minutes with a multimeter revealed that
that was 120VAC
that was only live when there was a heat call and the blower
was
running, et voila, problem solved. *This one, not so much.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Actually it is not as dumbass an installation as I initially thought.
It is tight but after investigation, poking, prodding, etc. I find
that the *bottom* of the thing comes off with a thumbscrew for water
panel replacement. Of course I found this out after I took it out the
top which involved lots of contortions and getting little bits of
disintegrating, lime-coated metal mesh all over the place due to
having to push it up into the joist bays and then finagle it out over
the top of the ductwork. Oh well it's done now, just need to find
what water panel this thing takes and hopefully I can get it working
again - because putting an Aprilaire unit in there is not going to
happen. Really, the only practical installation of one of those would
involve cutting an access panel into the drywall in the downstairs
foyer, which I'm assuming the owner of the house would dislike

Oh, and I don't like the saddle valve either, but one thing at a
time...

nate