"don &/or Lucille" wrote in message
...
Help my first time cutting up firewod. We purchased a truckload of wood
but it seems to be awful big. Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it
but it only bounces off. Any suggesions appreciate. Helpfull ones would be
better than snide remarks

Don

A few more facts, please. What do you have now? Logs? (long round pieces)
Rounds? (short round pieces) What kind of wood? How long ago was the wood
cut? Was it alive or dead when cut? Is it dried out, or wet?

Please describe as best you can the appearance ....... does it still have
bark, and can that be pulled off easily or hard to pull off? Is it dry or
wet? Is there beads of sap or pitch oozing out of the ends?

You have several things to consider here, one of them might be if the wood
is even able to be used this season. (Wood needs to "season" to dry out so
it burns better.)

Read up and get the basics. There's more to it than just cutting firewood,
as you are already finding out.

Are you ever considering harvesting your own wood? That opens up a totally
new discussion.

Steve

"RonB" wrote

You can rent splitters - or better mooch splitter time from a
friend. A case of beer goes a long way toward reducing aching
muscles.

RonB

In man talk, a good friend owns a log splitter and knows how to brew beer.
And a reeeeeeeealy good friend has a boat, too.

Steve

"HeyBub" wrote

Just wondering...

Couldn't a home-made splitter be made using a hydraulic jack? I'm
thinking a U-shaped bit of metal - with a wedge at the top.

You put the wood under the wedge and the jack under the wood.
Pump-pump-pump... and the log is split.

Oh well, just a thought...

VERY doable, just S-L-O-W!

Steve

"Steve B" wrote
Investigate buying a machine driven hydraulic wood splitter.
New, today, a good one is $1500.
Used ones can be had for less than that, and in this economy, I'd believe
I could find a decent slightly used one for around $500.

30 years ago I may have done just that. Today, I'd rather buy oil with that
money and program the thermostat.




Assess your capabilities and do what you think best. Lots of people have
died splitting wood and shoveling snow.

I'm planning to upgrade my snow blower this year too.

On Oct 4, 9:11*am, Frank wrote:
On Oct 4, 11:38*am, "don &/or Lucille"
wrote: Heres another question. Birch splits along its grain so easy I was thinking
it would be best used for making kindling and smaller sticks rather than
burning in junks. Any opiniuons?

Not familiar with birch but it is a good idea to google up the fuel
value of various woods. *The hard woods are usually best. *I think
some like fat wood which is from a high resin pine stump makes good
fire starter but burning a lot of pine is a no no because of high
creosote build up.

Old wives tale. If the pine is cured well dthere is no creosote
problem any worse than any other wood, assuming one isn't burrning
with an oxygen starved fire. There are mny places where you heat with
pine, fir, spruce or you don't heat with wood at all.

Harry K

On Oct 4, 8:45*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 07:50:48 -0700 (PDT), Harry K





wrote:
On Oct 4, 5:57*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 08:51:34 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"

wrote:
Help my first time cutting up firewod. We purchased a truckload of wood but
it seems to be awful big. Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it but it
only bounces off. Any suggesions appreciate. Helpfull ones would be better
than snide remarks

Do you know what kind of wood it is? * * If it is something like
twisted elm or cypress, it won't split without some hydraulics. * If
it is oak, you just need a strong swing. [and a dull axe is fine for
splitting]

Curious. *What is the reasoning behind the "dull ax bit"? *That just
makes the work harder.
snip

When I used such things, my felling axe was sharp enough to shave my
arm. * * I never touched the splitting axe with a file in 30 years. *A
sharp splitting axe is more likely to bury itself in a log without
splitting it. * * *It splits by force & inertia, not by cutting.

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sorry but you are both wrong. If you know anyone with a Fiskars
splitting ax, try one and you will forget about "dull" axes. Fact is
that wood will not split until the ax/maul _enters_ the wood and dull
one uses up force just gettin into the wood. If you watch a hydraulic
spliter at work you will see that the 'edge' never touches the wood
after it enters the piece - the split runs ahead of of it...unless, of
course, it is shearing through a knot. It is the same with an ax,
maul, or wedge.

I have both a dull maul and a sharp, sharp Fiskars that outsplits the
maul and does it with way less effort. Best $50 I ever spent.

Harry K

On Oct 4, 1:20*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
RonB wrote:
On Oct 4, 8:35 am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Oct 4, 8:05 am, Frank wrote:

On 10/4/2011 7:51 AM, don &/or Lucille wrote: Help my first time
cutting up firewod. We purchased a truckload of wood but
it seems to be awful big. Purchased a splitting axe took a file to
it but it only bounces off. Any suggesions appreciate. Helpfull
ones would be better than snide remarks

Don

Maybe if already split it is OK. You don't want to burn all
kindling.
I had a neighbor that was never happy with wood he bought and cut it
down to stick size which is going to burn fast but not give a
sustained
fire that does not require constant feeding.

Splitting depends on type of wood. I use ax, wedge and sledge hammer
when I have to on wood gathered from trees in my yard.

Doug Miller's advice is best, get someone who has done splitting to
show you how, it is much easier than learning by trial and error.
Also, examine the wood for any natural cracks or fault lines and
start there. I always sort of peel around the perimeter, as Jim
Elbrecht said.

One thing a lot of folks overlook is standing the chunk on end on a
solid surface - preferably a large piece of un-split firewood. *This
does two things:

1) Reduces the cushion effect of the blow. *A solid base puts the
force of the ax or maul into the wood,not softer earth.

2) *Safer. *With the work elevated you are less apt to have the ax
bounce off and end up hitting your foot or leg (bad!)

#2 is another reason to follow Doug's advice. *You can get hurt,
seriously hurt, splitting wood; and the tireder you get the higher the
probability of accident.

You can rent splitters - or better mooch splitter time from a
friend. * A case of beer goes a long way toward reducing aching
muscles.

Just wondering...

Couldn't a home-made splitter be made using a hydraulic jack? *I'm thinking
a U-shaped bit of metal - with a wedge at the top.

You put the wood under the wedge and the jack under the wood.
Pump-pump-pump... and the log is split.

Oh well, just a thought...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Available on line, I think Harbor Frieght has them, unless one is
physically handicapped they are useless. Takes forever to split one
piece.

Harry K

On Oct 4, 9:03*pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 10:45:27 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

There are timbers in the UK cannot be
split, you have to chainsaw them in all directions.

Show me.

Elm. You have some sort of elm in America too.
It was traditionally used for the hub in wooden spoken wheels that had
lots of mortices. Also chair seats. This has been done/known for two
thousand years at least but you don't know. Tch!

You can cut a trunk into slices a couple of inches thick and it will
not split with an axe.
I once had a couple of large fallen elms, it was hell's delight
cutting them up it all directions with the chainsaw even though parts
were rotten.
They are mostly gone now with Dutch elm disease, though they were very
common here.
There is some disease now killing oak trees.

http://vindolanda.csad.ox.ac.uk/exhi...steadwhl.shtml
http://www.josawmills.co.uk/products.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elm#Carpentry

On Oct 4, 9:20*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
RonB wrote:
On Oct 4, 8:35 am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Oct 4, 8:05 am, Frank wrote:

On 10/4/2011 7:51 AM, don &/or Lucille wrote: Help my first time
cutting up firewod. We purchased a truckload of wood but
it seems to be awful big. Purchased a splitting axe took a file to
it but it only bounces off. Any suggesions appreciate. Helpfull
ones would be better than snide remarks

Don

Maybe if already split it is OK. You don't want to burn all
kindling.
I had a neighbor that was never happy with wood he bought and cut it
down to stick size which is going to burn fast but not give a
sustained
fire that does not require constant feeding.

Splitting depends on type of wood. I use ax, wedge and sledge hammer
when I have to on wood gathered from trees in my yard.

Doug Miller's advice is best, get someone who has done splitting to
show you how, it is much easier than learning by trial and error.
Also, examine the wood for any natural cracks or fault lines and
start there. I always sort of peel around the perimeter, as Jim
Elbrecht said.

One thing a lot of folks overlook is standing the chunk on end on a
solid surface - preferably a large piece of un-split firewood. *This
does two things:

1) Reduces the cushion effect of the blow. *A solid base puts the
force of the ax or maul into the wood,not softer earth.

2) *Safer. *With the work elevated you are less apt to have the ax
bounce off and end up hitting your foot or leg (bad!)

#2 is another reason to follow Doug's advice. *You can get hurt,
seriously hurt, splitting wood; and the tireder you get the higher the
probability of accident.

You can rent splitters - or better mooch splitter time from a
friend. * A case of beer goes a long way toward reducing aching
muscles.

Just wondering...

Couldn't a home-made splitter be made using a hydraulic jack? *I'm thinking
a U-shaped bit of metal - with a wedge at the top.

You put the wood under the wedge and the jack under the wood.
Pump-pump-pump... and the log is split.

Oh well, just a thought...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Seems to be an American redneck tradition.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bVAA...eature=related

Please do not hold your breath and stand on one foot while
waiting.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 10:45:27 -0700 (PDT), harry

wrote:

There are timbers in the UK cannot be
split, you have to chainsaw them in all directions.

Show me.

Years ago, I had a borrowed log splitter, 5 HP gasoline
model. I was able to split some twisted wood, that had
resisted the efforts of a hardy teen with splitting maul.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...

Not in the UK-- but that's the easiest way to make 2 pieces
of twisted
elm separate. I've never worked with cypress, but have
heard the
same of it.

Makes for difficult firewood-- but good wooden hubs for
wagons or
furniture pieces that you don't want to split.

Hickory is pretty resistant- but splittable when seasoned
unless
you've got a chunk of crotchwood.

Jim

I have neither wood stove, nor splitter. However, I'd accept
your kind offer, if I could.

I'm guessing you are healthier than most of the television
generation couch potatos. I'd also not want to see you in a
bar fight, with your strong shoulders and upper body.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...


I'm 60 yrs old and haven't swung an axe for more than a
dozen swings
in 10 years. But I'll bet I can split a cord of decent
wood with
a splitting axe faster than somebody can operate that $170.
contraption.

Anybody that has used either of those devices- or similar-
feel free
to correct me. [and if you've got the tool and a wood pile
within
100 miles of Schenectady, I'd love to come out and split
some wood for
you just to see them work]

Jim

In ,
Oren typed:
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 08:51:34 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"
wrote:

Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it but it
only bounces off.

I don't believe a maul is intended to be sharpened. The
ones I see in the store have a dull edge, wedge shaped
head.

What a blog of useless, often even wrong or off topic this thread is! And in
all the posts I did look at, not a sngle link for valdation/clarifcation;
just guesses & the hard way to do the sharpening in about evrty case!

I simply use a bench grinder with a coarse and a fine wheel pf the correct
design; fills the bill every time. The angle of the sharpening s actually
the most mortant thing to get right regardless of what you want to sharpen.

On Oct 5, 8:05*am, "Twayne" wrote:
,
Oren typed:

On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 08:51:34 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"
wrote:

Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it but it
only bounces off.

I don't believe a maul is intended to be sharpened. The
ones I see in the store *have a dull edge, wedge shaped
head.

What a blog of useless, often even wrong or off topic this thread is! And in
all the posts I did look at, not a sngle link for valdation/clarifcation;
just guesses & the hard way to do the sharpening in about evrty case!

I simply use a bench grinder with a coarse and a fine wheel pf the correct
design; fills the bill every time. The angle of the sharpening s actually
the most mortant thing to get right regardless of what you want to sharpen.

"Twayne" wrote in message
...
In ,
Oren typed:
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 08:51:34 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"
wrote:

Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it but it
only bounces off.

I don't believe a maul is intended to be sharpened. The
ones I see in the store have a dull edge, wedge shaped
head.

What a blog of useless, often even wrong or off topic this thread is! And
in all the posts I did look at, not a sngle link for
valdation/clarifcation; just guesses & the hard way to do the sharpening
in about evrty case!

I simply use a bench grinder with a coarse and a fine wheel pf the correct
design; fills the bill every time. The angle of the sharpening s actually
the most mortant thing to get right regardless of what you want to
sharpen.



Can we see your link for validation/clarification, please?

Steve

On Oct 4, 11:37*pm, harry wrote:
On Oct 4, 9:03*pm, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 10:45:27 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

There are timbers in the UK cannot be
split, you have to chainsaw them in all directions.

Show me.

Elm. *You have some sort of elm in America too.
It was traditionally used for the hub in wooden spoken wheels that had
lots of mortices. *Also chair seats. This has been done/known for two
thousand years at least but you don't know. Tch!

You can cut a trunk into slices a couple of inches thick and it will
not split with an axe.
*I once had a couple *of large fallen elms, it was hell's delight
cutting them up it all directions with the chainsaw even though parts
were rotten.
They are mostly gone now with Dutch elm disease, though they were very
common here.
There is some disease now killing oak trees.

http://vindolanda.csad.ox.ac.uk/exhi.../Elm#Carpentry

Elm! I cut some Red Elm two years ago. It was part of a deal with a
farmer to get a batch of Black Locust trees (#1 firewood). I will
never, ever fool with that stuff again. Even with a splitter I had to
use a hatchet to cut the strings.

I am now burning it. Very good wood, burns hot, burns long but the
worst wood I have ever burned for the amount of ash it leaves. It is
also a very light, feathery ash dthat I have poke down through the
stove grate. I am emptying the ashpan every 2-3 days vice the 4-5
days I was used to witht other wood.

Harry K

On Oct 4, 2:16*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Oren wrote:

-snip-



See:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200442241_200442241

IMO- That's just plain silly. * * First choice is get wood that
splits-- *but if that isn't possible, I'd probably break down and get
a motorized splitter.

I'm 60 yrs old and haven't swung an axe for more than a dozen swings
in 10 years. * * *But I'll bet I can split a cord of decent wood with
a splitting axe faster than somebody can operate that $170.
contraption.



Cheaper:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200338643_200338643

And unless you have no use of your arms at all, that one seems even
sillier. *

Anybody that has used either of those devices- or similar- feel free
to correct me. * [and if you've got the tool and a wood pile within
100 miles of Schenectady, I'd love to come out and split some wood for
you just to see them work]

Jim

I'm 77 and I think I could split wood faster with a hammer and chisel
than that asinine rig. I saw a promotional video of one back when the
first one showed up on the scene. I counted 7 strokes to split a
stove size piece in half. Clear grain and it could have been split
with a small hatchet with one swing.

There is a place for it for someone who is so disabled that it is the
only tool they could operate.

Harry K

On Oct 5, 6:05*am, "Twayne" wrote:
,
Oren typed:

On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 08:51:34 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"
wrote:

Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it but it
only bounces off.

I don't believe a maul is intended to be sharpened. The
ones I see in the store *have a dull edge, wedge shaped
head.

What a blog of useless, often even wrong or off topic this thread is! And in
all the posts I did look at, not a sngle link for valdation/clarifcation;
just guesses & the hard way to do the sharpening in about evrty case!


One of the best examples was the guy who claimed you can't sharpen a
maul because the material is too hard !!

I simply use a bench grinder with a coarse and a fine wheel pf the correct
design; fills the bill every time. The angle of the sharpening s actually
the most mortant thing to get right regardless of what you want to sharpen.

Harry K wrote:
-snip-

Elm! I cut some Red Elm two years ago. It was part of a deal with a
farmer to get a batch of Black Locust trees (#1 firewood). I will
never, ever fool with that stuff again. Even with a splitter I had to
use a hatchet to cut the strings.

With elm there seems to be a small window- about 2-3 years after it
dies - where the strings are gone, but the wood will still burn-- if
really dry.

But even at that, remember this one from the old Farmers Almanac
"Elm wood new or elm wood old, even the embers are very cold"


[I can't find that-- but here are a couple poems that cover a raft of
woods- http://thankstrees.tripod.com/id16.html ]

I might be mis-remembering this stanza;
"Oaken logs, if dry and old
Keep away the winters cold
Poplar gives a bitter smoke
Fills your eyes and makes you choke
Elmwood burns like churchyard mould
Even the very flames burn cold
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread
So it is in Ireland said
Applewood will scent the room
Pears wood smells like a flower in bloom
But Ashwood wet and Ashwood dry
A King may warm his slippers by. "


I am now burning it. Very good wood, burns hot, burns long but the
worst wood I have ever burned for the amount of ash it leaves. It is
also a very light, feathery ash dthat I have poke down through the
stove grate. I am emptying the ashpan every 2-3 days vice the 4-5
days I was used to witht other wood.

That's been my experience, too. I would burn elm to get it out of
the way-- The best wood I ever burned was untreated 20' telephone
poles. Most were 30-40 year old locust or red cedar. The cedar
burned super hot and the locust lasted forever. [not to mention they
were all nice straight poles and were free-- and delivered.g]

Jim

In ,
hr(bob) typed:
On Oct 5, 8:05 am, "Twayne"
wrote:
,
Oren typed:

On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 08:51:34 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"
wrote:

Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it but it
only bounces off.

I don't believe a maul is intended to be sharpened. The
ones I see in the store have a dull edge, wedge shaped
head.

What a blog of useless, often even wrong or off topic
this thread is! And in all the posts I did look at, not
a sngle link for valdation/clarifcation; just guesses &
the hard way to do the sharpening in about evrty case!

I simply use a bench grinder with a coarse and a fine
wheel pf the correct design; fills the bill every time.
The angle of the sharpening s actually the most mortant
thing to get right regardless of what you want to
sharpen.

And just what is that angle?

The angle depends on what you're sharpening. I just measure them on new
parts or while parts are new, and record them but even a dull edge
measurement will get you into the ballpark. So in essence, copy whats there
to start with.

In ,
Steve B typed:
"Twayne" wrote in message
...
In ,
Oren typed:
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 08:51:34 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"
wrote:

Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it but it
only bounces off.

I don't believe a maul is intended to be sharpened. The
ones I see in the store have a dull edge, wedge shaped
head.

What a blog of useless, often even wrong or off topic
this thread is! And in all the posts I did look at, not
a sngle link for valdation/clarifcation; just guesses &
the hard way to do the sharpening in about evrty case!

I simply use a bench grinder with a coarse and a fine
wheel pf the correct design; fills the bill every time.
The angle of the sharpening s actually the most mortant
thing to get right regardless of what you want to
sharpen.

Can we see your link for validation/clarification, please?

Steve

No, no one here deserves my putting in the Googles for it. I don't provide
them when no one else does or I have no good reason to; do your own research
now.

In ,
Harry K typed:
On Oct 5, 6:05 am, "Twayne"
wrote:
,
Oren typed:

On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 08:51:34 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"
wrote:

Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it but it
only bounces off.

I don't believe a maul is intended to be sharpened. The
ones I see in the store have a dull edge, wedge shaped
head.

What a blog of useless, often even wrong or off topic
this thread is! And in all the posts I did look at, not
a sngle link for valdation/clarifcation; just guesses &
the hard way to do the sharpening in about evrty case!


One of the best examples was the guy who claimed you
can't sharpen a maul because the material is too hard !!

I simply use a bench grinder with a coarse and a fine
wheel pf the correct design; fills the bill every time.
The angle of the sharpening s actually the most mortant
thing to get right regardless of what you want to
sharpen.

File here followed by a stone if I want a _really_ sharp
edge (rarely happens)

Harry K

Agreed, Harry. Nothng discussed here so far really wants a scary sharp edge;
they won't last for shinola on grass or wood.

"Twayne" wrote
The angle depends on what you're sharpening. I just measure them on new
parts or while parts are new, and record them but even a dull edge
measurement will get you into the ballpark. So in essence, copy whats
there to start with.



Here is a good start
http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/se...vel-angle.aspx

Type of Knife or Tool Recommended Angle
Cleaver
Machete
30 - 35 Degrees

Hunting Knives
Pocket Knives
Survival Knives
Sport Knives
25 - 30 Degrees

Chef's Knives
Kitchen Knives
Smaller Knives
Boning Knives
Carving Knives
18 - 25 Degrees

Fillet Knives
Paring Knives
Razors
X-Acto Knives
12 - 18 Degrees

"Twayne" wrote in message
...
In ,
Steve B typed:
"Twayne" wrote in message
...
In ,
Oren typed:
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 08:51:34 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"
wrote:

Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it but it
only bounces off.

I don't believe a maul is intended to be sharpened. The
ones I see in the store have a dull edge, wedge shaped
head.

What a blog of useless, often even wrong or off topic
this thread is! And in all the posts I did look at, not
a sngle link for valdation/clarifcation; just guesses &
the hard way to do the sharpening in about evrty case!

I simply use a bench grinder with a coarse and a fine
wheel pf the correct design; fills the bill every time.
The angle of the sharpening s actually the most mortant
thing to get right regardless of what you want to
sharpen.

Can we see your link for validation/clarification, please?

Steve

No, no one here deserves my putting in the Googles for it. I don't provide
them when no one else does or I have no good reason to; do your own
research now.

Sorry, but I'm not into angles on splitting wedges or mauls. There is none.
There is no sharp edge to be made. It seriously reduces the effectiveness
of the tool.

But you knew that, right?

Now, I think I'll go put a 7 degree edge on my hydraulic sharpener just to
make it work better.

Steve

"Steve B" wrote
Now, I think I'll go put a 7 degree edge on my hydraulic sharpener just to
make it work better.

Steve

All of the old timers use 8 degrees. Took me a long time to learn that, but
what a differenced. Used to take me an hour a cord, now I can get it done
in 60 minutes.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"Steve B" wrote
Now, I think I'll go put a 7 degree edge on my hydraulic sharpener just
to make it work better.

Steve

All of the old timers use 8 degrees. Took me a long time to learn that,
but what a differenced. Used to take me an hour a cord, now I can get it
done in 60 minutes.

I find the extra degree allows me a closer shave. Or at least it used to
before the coumadin ...........

Steve

On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 23:37:24 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

On Oct 4, 9:03*pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 10:45:27 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

There are timbers in the UK cannot be
split, you have to chainsaw them in all directions.

Show me.

Elm. You have some sort of elm in America too.
It was traditionally used for the hub in wooden spoken wheels that had
lots of mortices. Also chair seats. This has been done/known for two
thousand years at least but you don't know. Tch!

You can cut a trunk into slices a couple of inches thick and it will
not split with an axe.
I once had a couple of large fallen elms, it was hell's delight
cutting them up it all directions with the chainsaw even though parts
were rotten.
They are mostly gone now with Dutch elm disease, though they were very
common here.
There is some disease now killing oak trees.

http://vindolanda.csad.ox.ac.uk/exhi...steadwhl.shtml
http://www.josawmills.co.uk/products.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elm#Carpentry

Your links show elm has "resistance to splitting,".

Not "cannot be split" as you stated.

Minor point though. I'm not splitting any wood. Nor do I build wagon
wheels. I bought the only one I have in Amish country of central
Pennsylvania.

On Wed, 5 Oct 2011 09:05:23 -0400, "Twayne"
wrote:

In ,
Oren typed:
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 08:51:34 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"
wrote:

Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it but it
only bounces off.

I don't believe a maul is intended to be sharpened. The
ones I see in the store have a dull edge, wedge shaped
head.

What a blog of useless, often even wrong or off topic this thread is! And in
all the posts I did look at, not a sngle link for valdation/clarifcation;
just guesses & the hard way to do the sharpening in about evrty case!


You spelled netkop wrong.

I simply use a bench grinder with a coarse and a fine wheel pf the correct
design; fills the bill every time. The angle of the sharpening s actually
the most mortant thing to get right regardless of what you want to sharpen.


Yawn.

On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 07:50:48 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Oct 4, 5:57*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 08:51:34 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"

wrote:
Help my first time cutting up firewod. We purchased a truckload of wood but
it seems to be awful big. Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it but it
only bounces off. Any suggesions appreciate. Helpfull ones would be better
than snide remarks

Do you know what kind of wood it is? * * If it is something like
twisted elm or cypress, it won't split without some hydraulics. * If
it is oak, you just need a strong swing. [and a dull axe is fine for
splitting]


Curious. What is the reasoning behind the "dull ax bit"? That just
makes the work harder.
snip

The idea is to "split" the fibers apart, not cut them.

On Oct 5, 10:24*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"Twayne" wrote in message

...





om,
Steve B typed:
"Twayne" wrote in message
...
,
Oren typed:
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 08:51:34 -0300, "don &/or Lucille"
wrote:

Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it but it
only bounces off.

I don't believe a maul is intended to be sharpened. The
ones I see in the store *have a dull edge, wedge shaped
head.

What a blog of useless, often even wrong or off topic
this thread is! And in all the posts I did look at, not
a sngle link for valdation/clarifcation; just guesses &
the hard way to do the sharpening in about evrty case!

I simply use a bench grinder with a coarse and a fine
wheel pf the correct design; fills the bill every time.
The angle of the sharpening s actually the most mortant
thing to get right regardless of what you want to
sharpen.

Can we see your link for validation/clarification, please?

Steve

No, no one here deserves my putting in the Googles for it. I don't provide
them when no one else does or I have no good reason to; do your own
research now.

Sorry, but I'm not into angles on splitting wedges or mauls. *There is none.
There is no sharp edge to be made. *It seriously reduces the effectiveness
of the tool.

But you knew that, right?

Now, I think I'll go put a 7 degree edge on my hydraulic sharpener just to
make it work better.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You need to understand how a splitting tool works. Nothing happens
until it "enters" the wood and after than the point never touches the
wood, the split runs ahead of it. A dull edge just makes the work
harder.

Harry K

On Oct 5, 8:25*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Harry K wrote:

-snip-



Elm! *I cut some Red Elm two years ago. *It was part of a deal with a
farmer to get a batch of Black Locust trees (#1 firewood). *I will
never, ever fool with that stuff again. *Even with a splitter I had to
use a hatchet to cut the strings.

With elm there seems to be a small window- about 2-3 years after it
dies - where the strings are gone, but the wood will still burn-- if
really dry.

But even at that, remember this one from the old Farmers Almanac
"Elm wood new or elm wood old, even the embers are very cold"

[I can't find that-- but here are a couple poems that cover a raft of
woods-http://thankstrees.tripod.com/id16.html]

I might be mis-remembering this stanza;
"Oaken logs, if dry and old
Keep away the winters cold
Poplar gives a bitter smoke
Fills your eyes and makes you choke
Elmwood burns like churchyard mould
Even the very flames burn cold
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread
So it is in Ireland said
Applewood will scent the room
Pears wood smells like a flower in bloom
But Ashwood wet and Ashwood dry
A King may warm his slippers by. "



I am now burning it. *Very good wood, burns hot, burns long but the
worst wood I have ever burned for the amount of ash it leaves. *It is
also a very light, feathery ash dthat I have poke down through the
stove grate. *I am emptying the ashpan every 2-3 days vice the 4-5
days I was used to witht other wood.

That's been my experience, too. * * *I would burn elm to get it out of
the way-- The best wood I ever burned was untreated 20' telephone
poles. * *Most were 30-40 year old locust or red cedar. *The cedar
burned super hot and the locust lasted forever. * [not to mention they
were all nice straight poles and were free-- and delivered.g]

Jim

Love Black Locust. The Locust Borer is killing them off around here
and I am cutting everything I can find, currently have more than 40
cords cut/split/stacked and have about 6 more cords "in the round"
waiting to be split. Just cut my last one Monday for this season.

B Locust here is an imported species, most was planted by the settlers
back in the 1800 adn 1900s.

Harry K

Just to update we had a cold night and today notice a lot more checks. At
least now I can which ones are willing to be split.
Over and out!

Don
"don &/or Lucille" wrote in message
...
Help my first time cutting up firewod. We purchased a truckload of wood
but it seems to be awful big. Purchased a splitting axe took a file to it
but it only bounces off. Any suggesions appreciate. Helpfull ones would be
better than snide remarks

Don

"don &/or Lucille" wrote in message
...
Just to update we had a cold night and today notice a lot more checks. At
least now I can which ones are willing to be split.
Over and out!

You can see a lot by observing.

Yogi.