The woodwork in the kitchen was last finished (polyurethane) over 30
years ago. Window sills and frames, door frames, wainscoting. It needs
redoing. Q: What's the best way to remove the grease that has
accumulated after 30 years of cooking and only occasional washing?
Tried with limited success: Fantastik and 409 straight from their spray
bottles and also a strong solution of Spic 'n' Span.

On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 19:57:35 -0700, Paul MR wrote:

The woodwork in the kitchen was last finished (polyurethane) over 30
years ago. Window sills and frames, door frames, wainscoting. It needs
redoing. Q: What's the best way to remove the grease that has
accumulated after 30 years of cooking and only occasional washing?
Tried with limited success: Fantastik and 409 straight from their spray
bottles and also a strong solution of Spic 'n' Span.

"Trisodium phosphate has been used by painters for years and years as
a heavy duty degreaser..."

TSP:

Buy the red box (TSP) and not the green box (TSP Free) from the local
(gasp) "borg".

http://www.savogran.com/Retail_Products/Cleaning_Products/cleaning_products.html

On Sep 30, 9:57*pm, Paul MR wrote:
The woodwork in the kitchen was last finished (polyurethane) over 30
years ago. *Window sills and frames, door frames, wainscoting. It needs
redoing. *Q: *What's the best way to remove the grease that has
accumulated after 30 years of cooking and only occasional washing?
Tried with limited success: Fantastik and 409 straight from their spray
bottles and also a strong solution of Spic 'n' Span.

Consider a trip to your local janitorial supply store. The pro
products there may be more of what you need for a really tough job.
Consumer products are often watered down versions of more powerful
products to avoid litigation from misuse of stronger faster acting
formulations. The pros are interested in getting the job done quickly,
just as you are.

Joe

"Paul MR" wrote in message
...
The woodwork in the kitchen was last finished (polyurethane) over 30 years
ago. Window sills and frames, door frames, wainscoting. It needs redoing.
Q: What's the best way to remove the grease that has accumulated after 30
years of cooking and only occasional washing? Tried with limited success:
Fantastik and 409 straight from their spray bottles and also a strong
solution of Spic 'n' Span.

Cabinet scraper

On Sep 30, 8:16*pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 19:57:35 -0700, Paul MR wrote:
The woodwork in the kitchen was last finished (polyurethane) over 30
years ago. *Window sills and frames, door frames, wainscoting. It needs
redoing. *Q: *What's the best way to remove the grease that has
accumulated after 30 years of cooking and only occasional washing?
Tried with limited success: Fantastik and 409 straight from their spray
bottles and also a strong solution of Spic 'n' Span.

"Trisodium phosphate has been used by painters for years and years as
a heavy duty degreaser..."

TSP:

Buy the red box (TSP) *and not the green box (TSP Free) from the local
(gasp) "borg".

http://www.savogran.com/Retail_Products/Cleaning_Products/cleaning_pr...

****If you do decide to use TSP -- the real thing -- be sure to rinse
repeatedly. If not, paint might not cling.

HB

Oren wrote:
On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 19:57:35 -0700, Paul MR wrote:

The woodwork in the kitchen was last finished (polyurethane) over 30
years ago. Window sills and frames, door frames, wainscoting. It
needs redoing. Q: What's the best way to remove the grease that has
accumulated after 30 years of cooking and only occasional washing?
Tried with limited success: Fantastik and 409 straight from their
spray bottles and also a strong solution of Spic 'n' Span.

"Trisodium phosphate has been used by painters for years and years as
a heavy duty degreaser..."

TSP:

Buy the red box (TSP) and not the green box (TSP Free) from the local
(gasp) "borg".

http://www.savogran.com/Retail_Produ..._products.html

Amen. How they can sell "Phosphate-Free" TSP boggles the rational mind.

Aside:
TSP added to dishwashing detergent gets your dishes as clean as the used to
be before phosphates were removed (last June). As I recall, the proper ratio
is 1:20 TSP to powdered detergent. Mix in big bowl, return to box. [cut "X"
in box top, use funnel to return mixture to box, seal "X" with duct tape).

"Paul MR" wrote in message
...
The woodwork in the kitchen was last finished (polyurethane) over 30 years
ago. Window sills and frames, door frames, wainscoting. It needs redoing.
Q: What's the best way to remove the grease that has accumulated after 30
years of cooking and only occasional washing? Tried with limited success:
Fantastik and 409 straight from their spray bottles and also a strong
solution of Spic 'n' Span.

You might want to try "Simple Green". Just dilute it to the
concentration suggested on the label / packaging. It contains solvents that
remove grease and oil really well.

If after cleaning, the surfaces still feel like they are grease / oil
covered, you may actually be removing the finish. Old finishes, especially
those not up to KCMA standards, will deteriorate and actually be partially
removed with standard cleaning techniques. This tends to happen with
finishes applied using hobbyist materials.

Good Luck.

On 9/30/2011 7:57 PM, Paul MR wrote:
Thanks, people, for the suggestions. I've learned so much from this
discussion group over the years.

On 9/30/2011 10:57 PM, Paul MR wrote:
The woodwork in the kitchen was last finished (polyurethane) over 30
years ago. Window sills and frames, door frames, wainscoting. It needs
redoing. Q: What's the best way to remove the grease that has
accumulated after 30 years of cooking and only occasional washing? Tried
with limited success: Fantastik and 409 straight from their spray
bottles and also a strong solution of Spic 'n' Span.

If the greasy dirt has been on the wood long enough, it will soften the
finish, which may make the color different if you just renew the clear
finish. For light dirt/grease, any of those cleaners work well
(Fantastic can damage glass) and 409 is my fave. For heavy gunk,
mineral spirits can do a great job and not damage finishes (unless
already damaged by grease); light job, wipe with ms on a rag. Heavy
job, ms and fine steel wool.

On Sat, 01 Oct 2011 11:04:11 -0700, Paul MR wrote:

On 9/30/2011 7:57 PM, Paul MR wrote:
Thanks, people, for the suggestions. I've learned so much from this
discussion group over the years.

Let us know what works for you. Folks like to hear solutions.

On 10/1/2011 3:26 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 01 Oct 2011 11:04:11 -0700, Paul wrote:

On 9/30/2011 7:57 PM, Paul MR wrote:
Thanks, people, for the suggestions. I've learned so much from this
discussion group over the years.

Let us know what works for you. Folks like to hear solutions.

I went to the janitorial supply store. They recommended ZEP commercial
grade degreaser since no glass or granite surfaces were close. It
worked fine. The combination of grease and the ZEP did remove the
existing finish down to bare wood within about 12 inches the stove. I
did not mind the change in color - that's what makes unpainted wood
attractive to me. But Pat wanted it re-stained to match; I found the
oil-based stain in the basement, thinned it and voila! Washing with ZEP
and/or TSP, touching up the stain, lightly sanding, cleaning dust with
paint thinner and re-varnishing has taken about two weeks. I hope it
will last another 30 years at which time I will be 97 years old and
could care less.

On Wed, 12 Oct 2011 09:39:41 -0700, Paul MR wrote:

On 10/1/2011 3:26 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 01 Oct 2011 11:04:11 -0700, Paul wrote:

On 9/30/2011 7:57 PM, Paul MR wrote:
Thanks, people, for the suggestions. I've learned so much from this
discussion group over the years.

Let us know what works for you. Folks like to hear solutions.

I went to the janitorial supply store. They recommended ZEP commercial
grade degreaser since no glass or granite surfaces were close. It
worked fine. The combination of grease and the ZEP did remove the
existing finish down to bare wood within about 12 inches the stove. I
did not mind the change in color - that's what makes unpainted wood
attractive to me. But Pat wanted it re-stained to match; I found the
oil-based stain in the basement, thinned it and voila! Washing with ZEP
and/or TSP, touching up the stain, lightly sanding, cleaning dust with
paint thinner and re-varnishing has taken about two weeks. I hope it
will last another 30 years at which time I will be 97 years old and
could care less.

Thanks, Paul.