Has anyone used this product?

http://www.sanitred.com/Basemen****erproofing.htm

Sounds too good to be true, any comments, good or bad?

John

John writes:

Has anyone used this product?

http://www.sanitred.com/Basemen****erproofing.htm

Sounds too good to be true, any comments, good or bad?

It is too good to be true.

They don't show what happens when the water table rises after
you put that sealer on the floors and walls.

A coat of sealer won't hold back the water for long.


The correct procedure is to break the concrete floor all around the
perimeter, dig a trench, install piping, cover with concrete, leaving
a slit, install sump pump, create drainage holes for the walls so the
walls stay dry.

There are a lot of specialty basement waterproofing companies.

I had it done over 30 years ago. Still dry.

--
Dan Espen

On Sep 3, 9:40*pm, wrote:
John writes:
Has anyone used this product?

http://www.sanitred.com/Basemen****erproofing.htm

Sounds too good to be true, any comments, good or bad?

It is too good to be true.

They don't show what happens when the water table rises after
you put that sealer on the floors and walls.

A coat of sealer won't hold back the water for long.


Water getting into a basement is not always the
result of a rising water table. The water table
can be well below the basement floor and water
can still make it's way in. But I agree that if
he has a water table problem, this product
sure isn't going to cure it.



The correct procedure is to break the concrete floor all around the
perimeter, dig a trench, install piping, cover with concrete, leaving
a slit, install sump pump, create drainage holes for the walls so the
walls stay dry.

Agree that he should have all that except
drainage holes in the walls. Around here we put a
membrane outside the walls during construction
specifically to make them water tight.




There are a lot of specialty basement waterproofing companies.

I had it done over 30 years ago. *Still dry.

--
Dan Espen

On 9/3/2011 9:40 PM, wrote:
writes:

Has anyone used this product?

http://www.sanitred.com/Basemen****erproofing.htm

Sounds too good to be true, any comments, good or bad?

It is too good to be true.

They don't show what happens when the water table rises after
you put that sealer on the floors and walls.

A coat of sealer won't hold back the water for long.


The correct procedure is to break the concrete floor all around the
perimeter, dig a trench, install piping, cover with concrete, leaving
a slit, install sump pump, create drainage holes for the walls so the
walls stay dry.

There are a lot of specialty basement waterproofing companies.

I had it done over 30 years ago. Still dry.


The PREFERRED procedure is to have the drain system outside the
well-sealed wall when the basement is built. Those interior drains are a
second-best solution when an outside retrofit is not practical.

--
aem sends....

aemeijers writes:

On 9/3/2011 9:40 PM, wrote:
writes:

Has anyone used this product?

http://www.sanitred.com/Basemen****erproofing.htm

Sounds too good to be true, any comments, good or bad?

It is too good to be true.

They don't show what happens when the water table rises after
you put that sealer on the floors and walls.

A coat of sealer won't hold back the water for long.


The correct procedure is to break the concrete floor all around the
perimeter, dig a trench, install piping, cover with concrete, leaving
a slit, install sump pump, create drainage holes for the walls so the
walls stay dry.

There are a lot of specialty basement waterproofing companies.

I had it done over 30 years ago. Still dry.

The PREFERRED procedure is to have the drain system outside the
well-sealed wall when the basement is built. Those interior drains are
a second-best solution when an outside retrofit is not practical.

I agree outside drainage done right is the way to go
but pretty hard to do with an existing home.

--
Dan Espen

On Sep 3, 10:40*pm, wrote:
aemeijers writes:
On 9/3/2011 9:40 PM, wrote:
*writes:

Has anyone used this product?

http://www.sanitred.com/Basemen****erproofing.htm

Sounds too good to be true, any comments, good or bad?

It is too good to be true.

They don't show what happens when the water table rises after
you put that sealer on the floors and walls.

A coat of sealer won't hold back the water for long.

The correct procedure is to break the concrete floor all around the
perimeter, dig a trench, install piping, cover with concrete, leaving
a slit, install sump pump, create drainage holes for the walls so the
walls stay dry.

There are a lot of specialty basement waterproofing companies.

I had it done over 30 years ago. *Still dry.

The PREFERRED procedure is to have the drain system outside the
well-sealed wall when the basement is built. Those interior drains are
a second-best solution when an outside retrofit is not practical.

I agree outside drainage done right is the way to go
but pretty hard to do with an existing home.

--
Dan Espen- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

its near impossible to seal a basement from water. basements are NOT a
bathtub......

interior french drain is the only way to go on a existing home........

espically if the water table is high under your home

John wrote in news:rBz8q.1159$Dj7.23
@news.usenetserver.com:

Has anyone used this product?

http://www.sanitred.com/Basemen****erproofing.htm

Sounds too good to be true, any comments, good or bad?

John

Red flags:

"indoor waterproofing system that completely seals any basement
permanently, no matter how wet or deteriorated."

All the before & after pics. Get real. All staged and they're just pics
of who knows what.

Is anyone really stupid enough to base such a decision on
"testimonials"?!

Warranty -

"...properly installed," == prove it.

"...is limited to original cost of materials or replacement, at the
choice of Ideal Products LLC..."

"This warranty shall be limited to reimbursement to the original customer
of all or part of the product cost as determined by the amount of
replacement materials required to repair or replace the defective
product. The customer shall be responsible for the remainder of any costs
of installation or product price increase over and above the original
purchase price."

Uh huh, just forget the prep and labor costs. And, you're gonna use the
same thing to patch it that failed in the first place.

Red Green wrote:
John wrote in news:rBz8q.1159$Dj7.23
@news.usenetserver.com:

Has anyone used this product?

http://www.sanitred.com/Basemen****erproofing.htm

Sounds too good to be true, any comments, good or bad?

John

Red flags:

"indoor waterproofing system that completely seals any basement
permanently, no matter how wet or deteriorated."

All the before & after pics. Get real. All staged and they're just
pics of who knows what.

Is anyone really stupid enough to base such a decision on
"testimonials"?!

Warranty -

"...properly installed," == prove it.

"...is limited to original cost of materials or replacement, at the
choice of Ideal Products LLC..."

"This warranty shall be limited to reimbursement to the original
customer of all or part of the product cost as determined by the
amount of replacement materials required to repair or replace the
defective product. The customer shall be responsible for the
remainder of any costs of installation or product price increase over
and above the original purchase price."

Uh huh, just forget the prep and labor costs. And, you're gonna use
the same thing to patch it that failed in the first place.

And then there's the cost of removing the defective product.

wrote:
aemeijers writes:

On 9/3/2011 9:40 PM, wrote:
writes:

Has anyone used this product?

http://www.sanitred.com/Basemen****erproofing.htm

Sounds too good to be true, any comments, good or bad?

It is too good to be true.

They don't show what happens when the water table rises after
you put that sealer on the floors and walls.

A coat of sealer won't hold back the water for long.


The correct procedure is to break the concrete floor all around the
perimeter, dig a trench, install piping, cover with concrete,
leaving a slit, install sump pump, create drainage holes for the
walls so the walls stay dry.

There are a lot of specialty basement waterproofing companies.

I had it done over 30 years ago. Still dry.

The PREFERRED procedure is to have the drain system outside the
well-sealed wall when the basement is built. Those interior drains
are a second-best solution when an outside retrofit is not practical.

I agree outside drainage done right is the way to go
but pretty hard to do with an existing home.

If the soil is appropriate, it's probably not that hard to create an exterior
system. PVC well points can be washed into the ground using water pressure. They
are designed for shallow well systems, but could certainly be used to carry away
excessive ground water from beneath a house.

http://www.campbellmfg.com/brady/doc...stallation.pdf

I have been thinking about trying these for minor leakage on my rental house.

On 9/4/2011 1:05 PM, Bob F wrote:
wrote:
writes:

On 9/3/2011 9:40 PM, wrote:
writes:

Has anyone used this product?

http://www.sanitred.com/Basemen****erproofing.htm

Sounds too good to be true, any comments, good or bad?

It is too good to be true.

They don't show what happens when the water table rises after
you put that sealer on the floors and walls.

A coat of sealer won't hold back the water for long.


The correct procedure is to break the concrete floor all around the
perimeter, dig a trench, install piping, cover with concrete,
leaving a slit, install sump pump, create drainage holes for the
walls so the walls stay dry.

There are a lot of specialty basement waterproofing companies.

I had it done over 30 years ago. Still dry.

The PREFERRED procedure is to have the drain system outside the
well-sealed wall when the basement is built. Those interior drains
are a second-best solution when an outside retrofit is not practical.

I agree outside drainage done right is the way to go
but pretty hard to do with an existing home.

If the soil is appropriate, it's probably not that hard to create an exterior
system. PVC well points can be washed into the ground using water pressure. They
are designed for shallow well systems, but could certainly be used to carry away
excessive ground water from beneath a house.

http://www.campbellmfg.com/brady/doc...stallation.pdf

I have been thinking about trying these for minor leakage on my rental house.


Not talking about high water table or underground springs, in most
cases. The vast majority of basement leaks are surface water or
near-surface water hitting outside of basement wall and running down
until it finds an opening. Due to frost making things move, this is
commonly at a mortar joint, or where base of wall sits on the footer.
Hallerb always disagrees with me, but I personally know enough bone-dry
50+ year old basements to know that a waterproof basement and
outside-the-wall footer drains that don't clog up in five years CAN be
done. The fact that some builders are too cheap or clueless to do it is
another matter. Watch a few of the Mike Holmes reruns- at least every
3rd or 4th show, he spells out the procedures pretty well, showing
current technology. Which seems to be a whole lot better than the
visqueen-covered tar, and slotted corrugated (or slip-fit clay tile)
sitting naked in a foot of gravel, that we used back in the stone age.
That water-channel sheeting and sock-enclosed drain tile looks like it
would do a whole lot better at keeping fine clays from clogging the
system solid.

--
aem sends...