On 9/4/2011 1:05 PM, Bob F wrote:
wrote:
writes:

On 9/3/2011 9:40 PM, wrote:
writes:

Has anyone used this product?

http://www.sanitred.com/Basemen****erproofing.htm

Sounds too good to be true, any comments, good or bad?

It is too good to be true.

They don't show what happens when the water table rises after
you put that sealer on the floors and walls.

A coat of sealer won't hold back the water for long.


The correct procedure is to break the concrete floor all around the
perimeter, dig a trench, install piping, cover with concrete,
leaving a slit, install sump pump, create drainage holes for the
walls so the walls stay dry.

There are a lot of specialty basement waterproofing companies.

I had it done over 30 years ago. Still dry.

The PREFERRED procedure is to have the drain system outside the
well-sealed wall when the basement is built. Those interior drains
are a second-best solution when an outside retrofit is not practical.

I agree outside drainage done right is the way to go
but pretty hard to do with an existing home.

If the soil is appropriate, it's probably not that hard to create an exterior
system. PVC well points can be washed into the ground using water pressure. They
are designed for shallow well systems, but could certainly be used to carry away
excessive ground water from beneath a house.

http://www.campbellmfg.com/brady/doc...stallation.pdf

I have been thinking about trying these for minor leakage on my rental house.


Not talking about high water table or underground springs, in most
cases. The vast majority of basement leaks are surface water or
near-surface water hitting outside of basement wall and running down
until it finds an opening. Due to frost making things move, this is
commonly at a mortar joint, or where base of wall sits on the footer.
Hallerb always disagrees with me, but I personally know enough bone-dry
50+ year old basements to know that a waterproof basement and
outside-the-wall footer drains that don't clog up in five years CAN be
done. The fact that some builders are too cheap or clueless to do it is
another matter. Watch a few of the Mike Holmes reruns- at least every
3rd or 4th show, he spells out the procedures pretty well, showing
current technology. Which seems to be a whole lot better than the
visqueen-covered tar, and slotted corrugated (or slip-fit clay tile)
sitting naked in a foot of gravel, that we used back in the stone age.
That water-channel sheeting and sock-enclosed drain tile looks like it
would do a whole lot better at keeping fine clays from clogging the
system solid.

--
aem sends...