While I was out, for only 2 hours, my tank toilet started spraying a
narrow straight stream of water out the bottom of the tank. I don't
know how that is even possible, since I could find no leak in the line
to the tank or the connection at the tank, nor any hole in the tank
(other than the one for the line). But I saw and felt the je before
I turned the water offt, and it flooded the powder room, hall, and one
room of the basement.

I got a new simple metal line, like was used in the first place, but
now I'm having a hard time tightening it enough to stop its dripping,
and I'm not even sure if it's dripping from the valve or the tank
connection.

Plus I bent the vale handle with the pliers trying to turn the water
off at the toilet, so I thought I'd replace the valve. A guy
shopping said he didn't trust compression fittings, and recommended a
push on valve by the same company, Brassworks?. How could a push-on
valve possibly work well? Plus I don't trust the compression fittings
either, compared to solder. There is a wall next to the toilet, not
much room, what would you use?

Thanks.

"micky" wrote in message
...
While I was out, for only 2 hours, my tank toilet started spraying a
narrow straight stream of water out the bottom of the tank. I don't
know how that is even possible, since I could find no leak in the line
to the tank or the connection at the tank, nor any hole in the tank
(other than the one for the line). But I saw and felt the je before
I turned the water offt, and it flooded the powder room, hall, and one
room of the basement.

HI, are you sure you didn't pee pee on your shoe?

On 8/26/2011 10:16 AM, micky wrote:
While I was out, for only 2 hours, my tank toilet started spraying a
narrow straight stream of water out the bottom of the tank. I don't
know how that is even possible, since I could find no leak in the line
to the tank or the connection at the tank, nor any hole in the tank
(other than the one for the line). But I saw and felt the je before
I turned the water offt, and it flooded the powder room, hall, and one
room of the basement.

I got a new simple metal line, like was used in the first place, but
now I'm having a hard time tightening it enough to stop its dripping,
and I'm not even sure if it's dripping from the valve or the tank
connection.

Plus I bent the vale handle with the pliers trying to turn the water
off at the toilet, so I thought I'd replace the valve. A guy
shopping said he didn't trust compression fittings, and recommended a
push on valve by the same company, Brassworks?. How could a push-on
valve possibly work well? Plus I don't trust the compression fittings
either, compared to solder. There is a wall next to the toilet, not
much room, what would you use?

Thanks.

I would use a compression fitting.

--
Robert Allison
New Braunfels, TX

micky wrote in
:

While I was out, for only 2 hours, my tank toilet started spraying a
narrow straight stream of water out the bottom of the tank. I don't
know how that is even possible, since I could find no leak in the line
to the tank or the connection at the tank, nor any hole in the tank
(other than the one for the line). But I saw and felt the je before
I turned the water offt, and it flooded the powder room, hall, and one
room of the basement.

I got a new simple metal line, like was used in the first place, but
now I'm having a hard time tightening it enough to stop its dripping,
and I'm not even sure if it's dripping from the valve or the tank
connection.

Plus I bent the vale handle with the pliers trying to turn the water
off at the toilet, so I thought I'd replace the valve. A guy
shopping said he didn't trust compression fittings, and recommended a
push on valve by the same company, Brassworks?. How could a push-on
valve possibly work well? Plus I don't trust the compression fittings
either, compared to solder. There is a wall next to the toilet, not
much room, what would you use?

Thanks.

Replace the fill valve and hose to it. Only thing it could be if it's
pressurized vs dripping. Only a good grip HAND TIGHTEN of the hose
fitting to the fill valve. Only if it drips give it a slight (like 1/8th)
turn more.

A guy
shopping said he didn't trust compression fittings

That's because he always ****ed up his installation attemps - pipe area
where compression ring is was not clean/smooth or he over tightened it.
If it says 3/4 turn then go no more than 3/4 no matter how it "feels".
You can always tighten it 1/6th turn (a flat) afterwards if it drips. You
cannot back off a compression fitting in hopes it will stop dripping.

I've been living with compression fittings (sweated too) for years with
no leaks.

If the pipe stub is already only like an inch out of the wall, extend it
by sweating a coupling and short piece of pipe. If you don't do this, any
future valve replacement, be it an hour or year later because the fitting
leaks, will require digging into drywall.

On 8/26/2011 11:16 AM, micky wrote:
While I was out, for only 2 hours, my tank toilet started spraying a
narrow straight stream of water out the bottom of the tank. I don't
know how that is even possible, since I could find no leak in the line
to the tank or the connection at the tank, nor any hole in the tank
(other than the one for the line). But I saw and felt the je before
I turned the water offt, and it flooded the powder room, hall, and one
room of the basement.

I got a new simple metal line, like was used in the first place, but
now I'm having a hard time tightening it enough to stop its dripping,
and I'm not even sure if it's dripping from the valve or the tank
connection.

Plus I bent the vale handle with the pliers trying to turn the water
off at the toilet, so I thought I'd replace the valve. A guy
shopping said he didn't trust compression fittings, and recommended a
push on valve by the same company, Brassworks?. How could a push-on
valve possibly work well? Plus I don't trust the compression fittings
either, compared to solder. There is a wall next to the toilet, not
much room, what would you use?

Thanks.

The pressure fittings work just fine.

I am doctor; how do you do?
Doctor Seuss it is, says the gnu
I am oh, so weepy
I missed with the peepee
And wet all over my shoe

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...

(other than the one for the line). But I saw and felt
the je before
I turned the water offt, and it flooded the powder room,
hall, and one
room of the basement.

HI, are you sure you didn't pee pee on your shoe?

Worth looking at the existing shut off valve. If it's
galvanized, then replace with like (no torch needed).

Supposedly the "sharkbite" fittings are good, but they are
still fairly new technology.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"micky" wrote in message
...
While I was out, for only 2 hours, my tank toilet started
spraying a
narrow straight stream of water out the bottom of the tank.
I don't
know how that is even possible, since I could find no leak
in the line
to the tank or the connection at the tank, nor any hole in
the tank
(other than the one for the line). But I saw and felt the
je before
I turned the water offt, and it flooded the powder room,
hall, and one
room of the basement.

I got a new simple metal line, like was used in the first
place, but
now I'm having a hard time tightening it enough to stop its
dripping,
and I'm not even sure if it's dripping from the valve or the
tank
connection.

Plus I bent the vale handle with the pliers trying to turn
the water
off at the toilet, so I thought I'd replace the valve. A
guy
shopping said he didn't trust compression fittings, and
recommended a
push on valve by the same company, Brassworks?. How could a
push-on
valve possibly work well? Plus I don't trust the
compression fittings
either, compared to solder. There is a wall next to the
toilet, not
much room, what would you use?

Thanks.

Tony Miklos wrote the following:
On 8/26/2011 11:16 AM, micky wrote:
While I was out, for only 2 hours, my tank toilet started spraying a
narrow straight stream of water out the bottom of the tank. I don't
know how that is even possible, since I could find no leak in the line
to the tank or the connection at the tank, nor any hole in the tank
(other than the one for the line). But I saw and felt the je before
I turned the water offt, and it flooded the powder room, hall, and one
room of the basement.

I got a new simple metal line, like was used in the first place, but
now I'm having a hard time tightening it enough to stop its dripping,
and I'm not even sure if it's dripping from the valve or the tank
connection.

Plus I bent the vale handle with the pliers trying to turn the water
off at the toilet, so I thought I'd replace the valve. A guy
shopping said he didn't trust compression fittings, and recommended a
push on valve by the same company, Brassworks?. How could a push-on
valve possibly work well? Plus I don't trust the compression fittings
either, compared to solder. There is a wall next to the toilet, not
much room, what would you use?

Thanks.

The pressure fittings work just fine.

Loosen the nut behind the valve handle and try again.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7525144_loos...off-valve.html
In the future, close and open the valve a little on occasion to keep
corrosion from building up.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On 8/26/11 11:16 AM, micky wrote:
While I was out, for only 2 hours, my tank toilet started spraying a
narrow straight stream of water out the bottom of the tank. I don't
know how that is even possible, since I could find no leak in the line
to the tank or the connection at the tank, nor any hole in the tank
(other than the one for the line).

(snip)

I recently had a similar experience. Water was leaking from bottom of
tank around the fill valve fitting. No amount of re-tightening or new
washers would stop it. Took 2 days to find that a pinhole leak had
appeared in the threads of the fill valve in the open area between the
tank nut & washer, and the line from the shutoff valve.

In article ,
micky wrote:

While I was out, for only 2 hours, my tank toilet started spraying a
narrow straight stream of water out the bottom of the tank. I don't
know how that is even possible, since I could find no leak in the line
to the tank or the connection at the tank, nor any hole in the tank
(other than the one for the line). But I saw and felt the je before
I turned the water offt, and it flooded the powder room, hall, and one
room of the basement.

I got a new simple metal line, like was used in the first place, but
now I'm having a hard time tightening it enough to stop its dripping,
and I'm not even sure if it's dripping from the valve or the tank
connection.

Plus I bent the vale handle with the pliers trying to turn the water
off at the toilet, so I thought I'd replace the valve. A guy
shopping said he didn't trust compression fittings, and recommended a
push on valve by the same company, Brassworks?. How could a push-on
valve possibly work well? Plus I don't trust the compression fittings
either, compared to solder. There is a wall next to the toilet, not
much room, what would you use?

Thanks.

Hmmm... just for snorts and giggles, check the nipple coming out of the
wall for pin holes... feel all around it, and use a flashlight.

Just a hunch...

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

Erik

On Fri, 26 Aug 2011 19:34:32 -0700, Erik wrote:

In article ,
micky wrote:

While I was out, for only 2 hours, my tank toilet started spraying a
narrow straight stream of water out the bottom of the tank. I don't
know how that is even possible, since I could find no leak in the line
to the tank or the connection at the tank, nor any hole in the tank
(other than the one for the line). But I saw and felt the je before
I turned the water offt, and it flooded the powder room, hall, and one
room of the basement.

I got a new simple metal line, like was used in the first place, but
now I'm having a hard time tightening it enough to stop its dripping,
and I'm not even sure if it's dripping from the valve or the tank
connection.

Plus I bent the vale handle with the pliers trying to turn the water
off at the toilet, so I thought I'd replace the valve. A guy
shopping said he didn't trust compression fittings, and recommended a
push on valve by the same company, Brassworks?. How could a push-on
valve possibly work well? Plus I don't trust the compression fittings
either, compared to solder. There is a wall next to the toilet, not
much room, what would you use?

Thanks.

Hmmm... just for snorts and giggles, check the nipple coming out of the
wall for pin holes... feel all around it, and use a flashlight.

Just a hunch...

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

More than you ever wanted to know. Sorry. I capitalized a couple
good words.

Well, if I had posted here before I did so much work, I might well
have replaced the valve. But the job was 90% done by then, and the
question was intended in case, which seemed very possible, I'd have to
take it apart and start from scratch..** But I appreciate the goid
advice on the valve, and I'll use compression fittings when I start
replacing them.

The fill vallve is on the left -- I guess they all are -- and when I
got home, the water appeared to be jetting out from a place about an
inch to the right of the valve, but jetting down and to the left.
Maybe it was BOUNCING off of the lower half of the toilet. But I
rushed to turn the water off, first trying to use my hand on that
valve, and then to the basement, which actually worked, easily. (A
bigger valve on a bigger pipe, that I use every couple years I
suppose)

So I did't really see where the water was coming from. REED's seems
like the best guess, and I have the old valve in front of me now, and
can't see any light where it sholuldn't be. Plus it's plastic and not
thin. Don't see how there could be a hole. Tomorrow I'll reassemble
it, and try to turn the valve off and blow through it.

To repair the line, I wasn't sure how long to make it. The original
line zig-zagged a little even though it didn't have to, and I wasn't
sure whether to cut mine that way, and I cut it with only half the
extra length the original one had.

Then I tightened it to the toilet hand tight, and tightened to the
valve with an end wrendh. I knew how tight I made it at the valve,
but wasn't sure about at the toilet, and it was a bit wet and I
couldn't tighten it anymore. So -- and I know you all said not to --
I used a vise-grip to grab it gently and must have tightened at least
one more turn. Still diripping, the line seemed crooked, so I hit the
line it with the side of the vice-grip, and I think I straightened it
out. Tightened a little more and no dripping.

I have a plastic dishpan under it, so I can see if there is any
dripping.


Except when I turned on the water in the basement, it ran for 30
seconds, and yet no water in the tank. Then another 30 seconds.
Thenn I went upstairs to make sure something wasn't overflowing,
I'd used one toilet and it still hadn't refilled. Then another minute
and another 30 seconds. Finally I notoice that, by coincidence, the
flapper didn't seat on the first toilet, so all the water was running
out. Once I pushed that down, the toilet was fine,

except it makes a HECK OF A LOT OF NOISE, compared to its predecessor,
also a plastic thing with a cup that floats up along a plastic shaft.
The new one is the Fluid-Master, adjustable height. About 25
years ago I put in a Melnor valve, and it advertised the next time no
filddling with the plumbing, because the valve had a bayonet mount.
So I was annoyed when no store I went to sold a matching valve (I'd
forgotten the brand, but they looked different)

Well, now the valve is out of the tank and I still can't separate the
bayonet mount, after 25 years. The fluid-master comes apart by
pulling up a sleeve, and then pulling up the whole thing. We'll see
how that works in 25 years.

**So I didn't replace the valve, and I'm daunted because I have 11 of
them, I think, 2 1/2 bathrooms with hot and cold sinks valves and

I"m going to replace the handle, and after I fix my phone line and
clean the kitchen, I may replace the valve. Although better yet,
I'll replace the valve for the tioilet next to my bedroom, which had a
worse vavle rthan this one and still needs a new filler valve.

The lines TO the shut-off valves of the toilets are chrome plated and
stick almsot 6 inches out of the wall. ,

I can't seem to find a wrench that fits the body or the supply side
nut, and my medium adjustable wrench can't be found, but I have a
couple bicycle size adjustable wrenches if necessary.
Erik

On Fri, 26 Aug 2011 15:25:11 -0400, willshak
wrote:

Tony Miklos wrote the following:
On 8/26/2011 11:16 AM, micky wrote:
While I was out, for only 2 hours, my tank toilet started spraying a
narrow straight stream of water out the bottom of the tank. I don't
know how that is even possible, since I could find no leak in the line
to the tank or the connection at the tank, nor any hole in the tank
(other than the one for the line). But I saw and felt the je before
I turned the water offt, and it flooded the powder room, hall, and one
room of the basement.

I got a new simple metal line, like was used in the first place, but
now I'm having a hard time tightening it enough to stop its dripping,
and I'm not even sure if it's dripping from the valve or the tank
connection.

Plus I bent the vale handle with the pliers trying to turn the water
off at the toilet, so I thought I'd replace the valve. A guy
shopping said he didn't trust compression fittings, and recommended a
push on valve by the same company, Brassworks?. How could a push-on
valve possibly work well? Plus I don't trust the compression fittings
either, compared to solder. There is a wall next to the toilet, not
much room, what would you use?

Thanks.

The pressure fittings work just fine.

Thanks, and thanks to everyone.

Loosen the nut behind the valve handle and try again.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7525144_loos...off-valve.html
In the future, close and open the valve a little on occasion to keep
corrosion from building up.

I think there are 13 of them, counting sinks and toilets, but I'll
try. Oh, two more counting the washing machine, although it doesn't
seem to use such teeny valves.

Actually only the toilets use the ones with the almond-shaped handles.
Why is that?

micky wrote:
Loosen the nut behind the valve handle and try again.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7525144_loos...off-valve.html
In the future, close and open the valve a little on occasion to keep
corrosion from building up.

I think there are 13 of them, counting sinks and toilets, but I'll
try. Oh, two more counting the washing machine, although it doesn't
seem to use such teeny valves.

Actually only the toilets use the ones with the almond-shaped handles.
Why is that?

They're cheap.

If you must use them, after opening the valve completely, close it 1/4 turn.
This will give you some "wiggle" room in the future when the valve seems
stuck.

I've replaced all mine with 1/4-turn ball valves.

In article ,
micky wrote:

To repair the line, I wasn't sure how long to make it. The original
line zig-zagged a little even though it didn't have to, and I wasn't
sure whether to cut mine that way, and I cut it with only half the
extra length the original one had.

2 reasons for zigzagging: Stock length purchased that way, and the extra
length serves as a "service loop" to allow some alignment correction
without kinking the line. I buy plastic supply hoses now, much easier to
work with.

Are you mm?

On 8/26/2011 10:16 AM, micky wrote:
While I was out, for only 2 hours, my tank toilet started spraying a
narrow straight stream of water out the bottom of the tank. I don't
know how that is even possible, since I could find no leak in the line
to the tank or the connection at the tank, nor any hole in the tank
(other than the one for the line). But I saw and felt the je before
I turned the water offt, and it flooded the powder room, hall, and one
room of the basement.

I got a new simple metal line, like was used in the first place, but
now I'm having a hard time tightening it enough to stop its dripping,
and I'm not even sure if it's dripping from the valve or the tank
connection.

Plus I bent the vale handle with the pliers trying to turn the water
off at the toilet, so I thought I'd replace the valve. A guy
shopping said he didn't trust compression fittings, and recommended a
push on valve by the same company, Brassworks?. How could a push-on
valve possibly work well? Plus I don't trust the compression fittings
either, compared to solder. There is a wall next to the toilet, not
much room, what would you use?

Thanks.


Micky, you will probably have the best luck with a braided wire line
like this:

http://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&tab=iw#q=braided+sink+hose&hl=en&site= webhp&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei =EBlZTuuLO6SesQLXn93PDA&sqi=2&ved=0CI0BEK0E&bav=on .2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=1a687eecc1c71bd2&biw=1324&bih= 766


They cost a bit more, but the connection is toatally different than the
tube and rubber come system. We have gone to these exclusively as we
change out all uses. They supposedly are less prone to bursting when
you're gone on vacation or whatever.

On Sat, 27 Aug 2011 08:48:37 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
micky wrote:

To repair the line, I wasn't sure how long to make it. The original
line zig-zagged a little even though it didn't have to, and I wasn't
sure whether to cut mine that way, and I cut it with only half the
extra length the original one had.

2 reasons for zigzagging: Stock length purchased that way, and the extra
length serves as a "service loop" to allow some alignment correction
without kinking the line.

That's what I thought, AFTER I tried to connect it**.. How much
longer should a metal line be than the minimum distance? An inch or
two seems to accomplish nothing.

**I had only made a new line once before, and in that case, the two
valves didn't line up so I had to make it S-shaped regardless. .

I buy plastic supply hoses now, much easier to
work with.

Easoer tp bend, I guess.

But they don't shine? I thought in a bathroom everything was supposed
to shine!

Are you mm?

Yes, I am! How could you tell?

My computer broke -- not the hard drive but the computer -- and I
thought it would be fixed in less than a week, so I used this spare
computer witth the names that were in it. It's dragged on for 5 or 6
weeks now, and I don't even have time to work on the old computer.

But when I got back to the original computer, I was going to announce
my secret identity. For me, having a secret idently is about as
exciting as life gets.

In article ,
micky wrote:

Yes, I am! How could you tell?

In retrospect I'm surprised it took me as long as it did. First I
noticed that mm hadn't been around in a while, and I was actually
worried about you, thinking maybe you had crawled up in the attic and
fallen over dead. But about the same time, micky showed up, and damn if
he didn't have the same story-telling style.

In article ,
micky wrote:

That's what I thought, AFTER I tried to connect it**.. How much
longer should a metal line be than the minimum distance? An inch or
two seems to accomplish nothing.

**I had only made a new line once before, and in that case, the two
valves didn't line up so I had to make it S-shaped regardless.

I don't know whether there's a formula, but as you note, an inch or two
isn't worth a damn. For a toilet valve I'm thinking maybe 6" or more so
you have a nice sweeping curve. Even with the plastic (which you can get
covered in braided stainless for a bit of shine) it's good to have a
loop.

http://members.cox.net/prestwich/ahr1.jpg

On Sun, 28 Aug 2011 09:26:41 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
micky wrote:

Yes, I am! How could you tell?

In retrospect I'm surprised it took me as long as it did. First I
noticed that mm hadn't been around in a while,

Wow. You're really on the ball.

and I was actually
worried about you,

Gosh, I appreciate that.

thinking maybe you had crawled up in the attic and
fallen over dead.

Certainly a possibility, at least some day. I can also imagine bring
alive, sick or injured, maybe unconscious, not being able to get down
from the attic, for days. I put a phone in the unfinished attic for
just this purpose. OTOH, all this could happen in my bedroom too, or
any room.

But about the same time, micky showed up, and damn if
he didn't have the same story-telling style.

LOL. How about that!