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#1
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Lock plate question
I am changing the knobs and locks on the doors of my house. The metal
plate on the door jamb is screwed into the jamb where you would expect it to be, but then wraps around to the front of the jamb and is fastened beneath the trim piece. The house is 22 y/o and this is original equipment. Anyway to get that off w/o tearing off (and probably tearing up) the trim? -- People thought cybersex was a safe alternative, until patients started presenting with sexually acquired carpal tunnel syndrome.-Howard Berkowitz |
#2
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Lock plate question
In m,
Kurt Ullman typed: I am changing the knobs and locks on the doors of my house. The metal plate on the door jamb is screwed into the jamb where you would expect it to be, but then wraps around to the front of the jamb and is fastened beneath the trim piece. The house is 22 y/o and this is original equipment. Anyway to get that off w/o tearing off (and probably tearing up) the trim? If it's built properly and with expected methods, the trim comes off and goes back on easily is standard OP. Trim applications are always made to allow removal unless some newbie gets a brain-fart and fills it with so many nails they can't safely be popped off. A wide pry-bar is usually all that's needed; abt $10 US. Do some search engine looking. |
#3
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Lock plate question
On Mon, 15 Aug 2011 20:25:08 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote: I am changing the knobs and locks on the doors of my house. The metal plate on the door jamb is screwed into the jamb where you would expect it to be, but then wraps around to the front of the jamb and is fastened beneath the trim piece. The house is 22 y/o and this is original equipment. Anyway to get that off w/o tearing off (and probably tearing up) the trim? Are you sure the plate is "fastened" under the trim? I've never seen this before. Remove the jamb plate screws and see if you can wiggle the plate out from under the trim piece. If it really is fastened under the trim -- I suppose that trim piece will have to come off. |
#4
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Lock plate question
In article ,
Kurt Ullman wrote: I am changing the knobs and locks on the doors of my house. The metal plate on the door jamb is screwed into the jamb where you would expect it to be, but then wraps around to the front of the jamb and is fastened beneath the trim piece. The house is 22 y/o and this is original equipment. Anyway to get that off w/o tearing off (and probably tearing up) the trim? Why would you want to change the strike plate? |
#5
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Lock plate question
On Aug 15, 11:13*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article , *Kurt Ullman wrote: I am changing the knobs and *locks on the doors of my house. The metal plate on the door jamb is screwed into the jamb where you would expect it to be, but then wraps around to the front of the jamb and is fastened beneath the trim piece. The house is 22 y/o and this is original equipment. Anyway to get that off w/o tearing off (and probably tearing up) the trim? Why would you want to change the strike plate? You believe all locks have interchangeable strike plates? It might also just be possible that the OP wants fresh hardware and not an old scratched and tarnished POS glaring out at him every time he opens the door. R |
#6
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Lock plate question
On Aug 15, 8:25*pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
I am changing the knobs and *locks on the doors of my house. The metal plate on the door jamb is screwed into the jamb where you would expect it to be, but then wraps around to the front of the jamb and is fastened beneath the trim piece. The house is 22 y/o and this is original equipment. Anyway to get that off w/o tearing off (and probably tearing up) the trim? If the trim is painted you could cut out a section of the trim that's just big enough to free up the strike, then epoxy it back in place when you're done. Like Oren mentioned, I've never seen a strike that was attached on the face _and_ edge of the jamb. Maybe somebody Rube Goldberged it, but it might just be that the tongue is stuck under the trim and needs some coaxing. Also use a magnet to check if there are any nails holding the trim on right at the strike. If so, use a nail set and drive them all the way through the trim to reduce clamping pressure on the strike plate. R |
#7
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Lock plate question
In article ,
Oren wrote: On Mon, 15 Aug 2011 20:25:08 -0400, Kurt Ullman wrote: I am changing the knobs and locks on the doors of my house. The metal plate on the door jamb is screwed into the jamb where you would expect it to be, but then wraps around to the front of the jamb and is fastened beneath the trim piece. The house is 22 y/o and this is original equipment. Anyway to get that off w/o tearing off (and probably tearing up) the trim? Are you sure the plate is "fastened" under the trim? I've never seen this before. Remove the jamb plate screws and see if you can wiggle the plate out from under the trim piece. Tried that first. That was the reason I came here. But thanks for the tip, anyway. -- People thought cybersex was a safe alternative, until patients started presenting with sexually acquired carpal tunnel syndrome.-Howard Berkowitz |
#8
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Lock plate question
In article
, Smitty Two wrote: In article , Kurt Ullman wrote: I am changing the knobs and locks on the doors of my house. The metal plate on the door jamb is screwed into the jamb where you would expect it to be, but then wraps around to the front of the jamb and is fastened beneath the trim piece. The house is 22 y/o and this is original equipment. Anyway to get that off w/o tearing off (and probably tearing up) the trim? Why would you want to change the strike plate? Going from gold to brass and it would look nasty. Also, another reason I need to get it out, they don't match to the placement in the current door knobs. -- People thought cybersex was a safe alternative, until patients started presenting with sexually acquired carpal tunnel syndrome.-Howard Berkowitz |
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