Some of you may recall my question about repairing this crumbling
block:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/badcinder.jpg/

You'll note that there is an entry door to the right of the crumbling
block.

I ended up replacing both the door (old wooden door with a rotting
threshold) and the block.

In both the original installation and the new, there is a gap between
the end of the block and the bottom foot or so of the door jam. If you
look at the picture, that thin strip of material directly under the
jack stud is a strip of mortar between the block and the old door jam.

There was a duplicate strip of mortar on the other side of the door
which came out when the old door was removed. I now have to fill these
gaps to finish sealing the door.

The left side gap is a little bit less than an inch wide and the right
side is just under 2 inches. On the exterior side, there is a piece of
aluminum flashing that is nailed to the brickmold with a flange that
used to hide the original mortar strip. In other words, if you look
through the gap between the block and the door jamb from the inside,
you can see the "back" of the flange that used to be up against the
wall.

My question: Should I mix up some mortar and use a mortar bag to
squeeze mortar into the gaps or should I take the easy way out and
just use minimal expanding foam? Eventually I plan to parge the block
inside and out and I'm wondering if I can parge the foam on the
interior also or will it always be visible?

Thanks for any advice.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Some of you may recall my question about repairing this crumbling
block:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/badcinder.jpg/

You'll note that there is an entry door to the right of the crumbling
block.

I ended up replacing both the door (old wooden door with a rotting
threshold) and the block.

In both the original installation and the new, there is a gap between
the end of the block and the bottom foot or so of the door jam. If you
look at the picture, that thin strip of material directly under the
jack stud is a strip of mortar between the block and the old door jam.

There was a duplicate strip of mortar on the other side of the door
which came out when the old door was removed. I now have to fill these
gaps to finish sealing the door.

The left side gap is a little bit less than an inch wide and the right
side is just under 2 inches. On the exterior side, there is a piece of
aluminum flashing that is nailed to the brickmold with a flange that
used to hide the original mortar strip. In other words, if you look
through the gap between the block and the door jamb from the inside,
you can see the "back" of the flange that used to be up against the
wall.

My question: Should I mix up some mortar and use a mortar bag to
squeeze mortar into the gaps or should I take the easy way out and
just use minimal expanding foam? Eventually I plan to parge the block
inside and out and I'm wondering if I can parge the foam on the
interior also or will it always be visible?

Thanks for any advice.

Since you eventually plan on parging the block anyway, my vote would be to
fill the gaps now with mortar.

Expanding foam can be a mess to work with, and it can expand too much and
can be a pain to trim.

"RogerT" wrote:

-snip-

Since you eventually plan on parging the block anyway, my vote would be to
fill the gaps now with mortar.

I'd use that mortar/caulk in a tube, myself.


Expanding foam can be a mess to work with, and it can expand too much and
can be a pain to trim.

??? Especially someplace where it won't be seen, how hard is it to
wait until it is cured and knock off the high spots with a dull knife,
sharp knife, block of wood-- heel of your boot. . . .?

Jim

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
"RogerT" wrote:

-snip-

Since you eventually plan on parging the block anyway, my vote would be to
fill the gaps now with mortar.

I'd use that mortar/caulk in a tube, myself.


Expanding foam can be a mess to work with, and it can expand too much and
can be a pain to trim.

??? Especially someplace where it won't be seen, how hard is it to
wait until it is cured and knock off the high spots with a dull knife,
sharp knife, block of wood-- heel of your boot. . . .?

Jim

Multi purpose HF tool works for me. Wait a few days until sets up hard and
then is easy to trim. I used the blue can of "Great Stuff" WW

On Jun 22, 6:40*pm, "WW" wrote:
"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message

...





"RogerT" wrote:

-snip-

Since you eventually plan on parging the block anyway, my vote would be to
fill the gaps now with mortar.

I'd use that mortar/caulk in a tube, myself.

Expanding foam can be a mess to work with, and it can expand too much and
can be a pain to trim.

??? * Especially someplace where it won't be seen, how hard is it to
wait until it is cured and knock off the high spots with a dull knife,
sharp knife, block of wood-- heel of your boot. . . .?

Jim

Multi purpose HF tool works for me. Wait a few days until sets up hard and
then is easy to trim. I used the blue can of "Great Stuff" *WW- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I "mortared" in a single concrete block with expanding foam a couple
of years ago. Drain for a washing machine had been run through the
block and it crumbled and had to be replaced. New block was cut on a
masonry saw to allow the drain to pass through. We placed a couple of
shims beneath the block and shot the spaces around it with "great
stuff". Whether or not I would do the same again would depends on
whether or not there was ever going to be any kind of stuctural load
placed on it.

Jimmie