Hi,

Our consumer unit is on an external wall in the downstairs toilet
above the window and is very draughty, which makes the room cold in
the winter. I want to seal it up to prevent any draught's coming
through.

I was thinking of boxing it in draught sealing it (with a door for
access), but the missus' step-father suggested taking the front off
the CU and squirting some expanding foam in the void behind it to seal
it all up from there. It'd be much less hassle to do this.

Is this an ok thing to do? I've read that expanding foam can be
corrosive to cable insulation!? Not sure if it's an urban myth or not.

Thanks,

Jon

Jon coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi,

Our consumer unit is on an external wall in the downstairs toilet
above the window and is very draughty, which makes the room cold in
the winter. I want to seal it up to prevent any draught's coming
through.

I was thinking of boxing it in draught sealing it (with a door for
access), but the missus' step-father suggested taking the front off
the CU and squirting some expanding foam in the void behind it to seal
it all up from there. It'd be much less hassle to do this.

Is this an ok thing to do? I've read that expanding foam can be
corrosive to cable insulation!? Not sure if it's an urban myth or not.

Hi Jon,

I wouldn't do that. Apart from any possible reaction between the foam and
the PVC, you'll be adding thermal insulation around the cables (already
bundled) and you'll make it very difficult to remove of add cables later,
assuming the cables go through the void you mention (if not, what's the
void for).

Not to mention there are live cables in the CU, even with it's isolator in
the off position - is liquid foam conductive?

Go with your original idea is my advice, but make sure the cupboard is
either removable or big enough to allow working inside the CU.

Cheers

Tim

On 16 Sep, 13:06, Tim S wrote:
Jon coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi,

Our consumer unit is on an external wall in the downstairs toilet
above the window and is very draughty, which makes the room cold in
the winter. I want to seal it up to prevent any draught's coming
through.

I was thinking of boxing it in draught sealing it (with a door for
access), but the missus' step-father suggested taking the front off
the CU and squirting some expanding foam in the void behind it to seal
it all up from there. It'd be much less hassle to do this.

Is this an ok thing to do? I've read that expanding foam can be
corrosive to cable insulation!? Not sure if it's an urban myth or not.

Hi Jon,

I wouldn't do that. Apart from any possible reaction between the foam and
the PVC, you'll be adding thermal insulation around the cables (already
bundled) and you'll make it very difficult to remove of add cables later,
assuming the cables go through the void you mention (if not, what's the
void for).

Not to mention there are live cables in the CU, even with it's isolator in
the off position - is liquid foam conductive?

Go with your original idea is my advice, but make sure the cupboard is
either removable or big enough to allow working inside the CU.

Thanks for your response Tim.

Your reasoning is sensible and I will go with the boxing-in.

Thanks,

Jon

On Sep 16, 1:06*pm, Tim S wrote:
Jon coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi,

Our consumer unit is on an external wall in the downstairs toilet
above the window and is very draughty, which makes the room cold in
the winter. I want to seal it up to prevent any draught's coming
through.

I was thinking of boxing it in draught sealing it (with a door for
access), but the missus' step-father suggested taking the front off
the CU and squirting some expanding foam in the void behind it to seal
it all up from there. It'd be much less hassle to do this.

Is this an ok thing to do? I've read that expanding foam can be
corrosive to cable insulation!? Not sure if it's an urban myth or not.

not even remotely sensible. You're filling an electrical item that
requires a little airflow to cool the cables, and often fuses, with an
insulator. Not just that, but its flammable. And not only that, but it
will prevent any future work in the CU short of scrapping it. And not
only that... but it expands with great force as it sets, likely
buggering the CU beyond saving.

If you have draughts, fix the hole in the wall or window, boxing the
CU in isnt a very good answer.


NT

In article ,
Jon writes:
Hi,

Our consumer unit is on an external wall in the downstairs toilet
above the window and is very draughty, which makes the room cold in
the winter. I want to seal it up to prevent any draught's coming
through.

I was thinking of boxing it in draught sealing it (with a door for
access), but the missus' step-father suggested taking the front off
the CU and squirting some expanding foam in the void behind it to seal
it all up from there. It'd be much less hassle to do this.

Is this an ok thing to do? I've read that expanding foam can be
corrosive to cable insulation!? Not sure if it's an urban myth or not.

You can buy little sand-bags to stuff in wiring holes like this
from electrical wholesalers. It's required in buildings where
the hole goes through a wall which provides fire protection.
They can be removed to thread new cables through. You might be
able to improvise with some dry sand and socks (without holes
in them ;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

hmmm..
if i go to B&Q and ask for little sandbags theyll look at me funny again,
anyone got a link or number for them please?
[g]

xxxxxxxxxxx

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
xxxxxxxxx

You can buy little sand-bags to stuff in wiring holes like this
from electrical wholesalers. It's required in buildings where
the hole goes through a wall which provides fire protection.
They can be removed to thread new cables through. You might be
able to improvise with some dry sand and socks (without holes
in them ;-)

George (dicegeorge) wrote:
hmmm..
if i go to B&Q and ask for little sandbags theyll look at me funny again,
anyone got a link or number for them please?

Go to an electrical wholesaler and ask for intumescent pillows.

--
Andy

I've taken advantage of the dry weather and removed 2 broken opening metal
windows,
they're in the best room, the Snug, so how shall i paint them - not water
based paint!

Hammerite - what's the difference between smooth and satin and hammered,
which would look best on an old victorian house?

http://www.hammerite.com/uk/products...urs.html#satin

I'm scraping off the paint and putty and car body filler,
going to Leominster or Hereford tomorrow to buy paint and solvent etc,
any recommendations please?

[g]

Should i paint it before or after i put the glass in?

Should i fit the window back into its frame before i put the glass in
in case its been bent out of square?

Should i clean it with anything after scraping most of the paint off with a
blunt chisel?


"George (dicegeorge)" wrote in message
...
I've taken advantage of the dry weather and removed 2 broken opening metal
windows,
they're in the best room, the Snug, so how shall i paint them - not water
based paint!

Hammerite - what's the difference between smooth and satin and hammered,
which would look best on an old victorian house?

http://www.hammerite.com/uk/products...urs.html#satin

I'm scraping off the paint and putty and car body filler,
going to Leominster or Hereford tomorrow to buy paint and solvent etc,
any recommendations please?

[g]

George (dicegeorge) coughed up some electrons that declared:

Should i paint it before or after i put the glass in?

I'd prime all of it well before putting glass in. Then you know there are no
bits exposed to the elements. Putty sticks fine to primer. Undercoat and
gloss after glass.

Should i fit the window back into its frame before i put the glass in
in case its been bent out of square?

Are these iron windows? It would be hard to bend them out of true I would
have thought. I'd put the window in the frame before glazing (are there
fixing screws that are obscured by the putty? Also the stresses of fitting
the window might break the glass.)

Should i clean it with anything after scraping most of the paint off with
a blunt chisel?

If what's left is sound, just prime it.

HTH

Tim

On Sep 17, 9:57*pm, "George \(dicegeorge\)"
wrote:
Should i paint it before or after i put the glass in?

Should i fit the window back into its frame before i put the glass in
in case its been bent out of square?

Should i clean it with anything after scraping most of the paint off with a
blunt chisel?

All depends what state its in. If the paint is mostly sound, no need
to scrape off. If OTOH the whole thing is a terrible mess, a wire
brush in an angle grinder would strip everything off, rust included.


"George (dicegeorge)" wrote in message

...

I've taken advantage of the dry weather and removed 2 broken opening metal
windows,
they're in the best room, the Snug, *so how shall i paint them - not water
based paint!

Usually ordinary household gloss is used. Car paints last much better
on steel & iron, but cost more initially. Personally I dont recommend
hammerite, it pinholes badly IME.


NT

"George (dicegeorge)" wrote in message
...
I've taken advantage of the dry weather and removed 2 broken opening metal
windows,
they're in the best room, the Snug, so how shall i paint them - not water
based paint!

Hammerite - what's the difference between smooth and satin and hammered,
which would look best on an old victorian house?

http://www.hammerite.com/uk/products...urs.html#satin

I'm scraping off the paint and putty and car body filler,
going to Leominster or Hereford tomorrow to buy paint and solvent etc,
any recommendations please?

Hammerite is ok as a one-coat quick fix on bare metal and I've used a lot of
it on engines I've built for customers over the years but it doesn't cover
that well on smooth metal (you get streaks) and it's tricky to apply second
coats. You definitely don't want hammered finish which has bits of
metalflake in it and is used on engine blocks, industrial machinery and
castings to give a sort of mottled effect. Smooth is the normal choice for
domestic use. I've never tried (or even heard of) the satin. It also needs
its own thinner/solvent to clean brushes which is a pain. White spirit won't
do the job. Although I still use it, mainly because I have plenty left over,
it's not all it's cracked up to be IMO.

To be honest I'd go for Dulux Metalshield zinc primer followed by two coats
of Dulux Metalshield Gloss topcoat. It's designed for exactly that job and
should see you good for another ten years or so. A mate of mine always used
to say "when decorating never skimp on the quality of the paint". I've
failed to follow his advice a couple of times and always regretted it. Pick
a good brand (they've spent the money on R&D making sure it works) and slap
plenty of it on the job. Better to do it once properly than twice badly.
--
Dave Baker

there was no zinc primer in leominster,
and only a 5 liter bucket for about £90 in hereford,
i bought some grey dulux metal primer
and spent many hours scraping the old paint off,
with titchy filing at the intricate handles,
and have just painted it with the primer,
so hopefully i can put the glass in tomorrow
and put them in so burglars cant hop in!
(did you get that safe open lads?)

[george]



"Dave Baker" wrote in message
...

"George (dicegeorge)" wrote in message
...
I've taken advantage of the dry weather and removed 2 broken opening
metal windows,
they're in the best room, the Snug, so how shall i paint them - not
water based paint!

Hammerite - what's the difference between smooth and satin and hammered,
which would look best on an old victorian house?

http://www.hammerite.com/uk/products...urs.html#satin

I'm scraping off the paint and putty and car body filler,
going to Leominster or Hereford tomorrow to buy paint and solvent etc,
any recommendations please?

Hammerite is ok as a one-coat quick fix on bare metal and I've used a lot
of it on engines I've built for customers over the years but it doesn't
cover that well on smooth metal (you get streaks) and it's tricky to apply
second coats. You definitely don't want hammered finish which has bits of
metalflake in it and is used on engine blocks, industrial machinery and
castings to give a sort of mottled effect. Smooth is the normal choice for
domestic use. I've never tried (or even heard of) the satin. It also needs
its own thinner/solvent to clean brushes which is a pain. White spirit
won't do the job. Although I still use it, mainly because I have plenty
left over, it's not all it's cracked up to be IMO.

To be honest I'd go for Dulux Metalshield zinc primer followed by two
coats of Dulux Metalshield Gloss topcoat. It's designed for exactly that
job and should see you good for another ten years or so. A mate of mine
always used to say "when decorating never skimp on the quality of the
paint". I've failed to follow his advice a couple of times and always
regretted it. Pick a good brand (they've spent the money on R&D making
sure it works) and slap plenty of it on the job. Better to do it once
properly than twice badly.
--
Dave Baker