I replaced two old style Sayco valve stems with new of same stems in a
tub/shower and the water pressure is weaker on the hot water side.
Turning it full on doesn't increase the pressure, whereas the cold
water side increases in pressure as the valve is opened. The cold
full on is much stronger than the hot full on. There are no leaks, on
the outside of the wall anyway.

This tub has always been used just as a shower and I hadn't really
noticed what it was like with the water selected to exit the tub spout
before, so I don't know how the current situation compares to the what
it was doing before.

Should I be concerned about the difference in the pressure?

Thanks.

On Mar 25, 6:26*pm, wrote:
I replaced two old style Sayco valve stems with new of same stems in a
tub/shower and the water pressure is weaker on the hot water side.
Turning it full on doesn't increase the pressure, whereas the cold
water side increases in pressure as the valve is opened. *The cold
full on is much stronger than the hot full on. *There are no leaks, on
the outside of the wall anyway.

This tub has always been used just as a shower and I hadn't really
noticed what it was like with the water selected to exit the tub spout
before, so I don't know how the current situation compares to the what
it was doing before.

Should I be concerned about the difference in the pressure?

Thanks.

actually its FLOW not pressure, try installing the old parts and see
if that helps

On Mar 25, 6:32*pm, bob haller wrote:
On Mar 25, 6:26*pm, wrote:

I replaced two old style Sayco valve stems with new of same stems in a
tub/shower and the water pressure is weaker on the hot water side.
Turning it full on doesn't increase the pressure, whereas the cold
water side increases in pressure as the valve is opened. *The cold
full on is much stronger than the hot full on. *There are no leaks, on
the outside of the wall anyway.

This tub has always been used just as a shower and I hadn't really
noticed what it was like with the water selected to exit the tub spout
before, so I don't know how the current situation compares to the what
it was doing before.

Should I be concerned about the difference in the pressure?

Thanks.

actually its FLOW not pressure, try installing the old parts and see
if that helps

Oh, flow. Thanks. Okay, replaced the hot with the old stem and it's
still less *flow* on that side than the cold side.

In ,
typed:
I replaced two old style Sayco valve stems with new of
same stems in a tub/shower and the water pressure is
weaker on the hot water side. Turning it full on doesn't
increase the pressure, whereas the cold water side
increases in pressure as the valve is opened. The cold
full on is much stronger than the hot full on. There are
no leaks, on the outside of the wall anyway.

This tub has always been used just as a shower and I
hadn't really noticed what it was like with the water
selected to exit the tub spout before, so I don't know
how the current situation compares to the what it was
doing before.

Should I be concerned about the difference in the
pressure?

Thanks.

Hot water pipes, especially if there is a water softener that's not kept in
service, tend to plug up faster than the cold water pipes. It's not an
unusual situation. The blockage is probably right up close to the water
heater or water softener if there is one. It's just the imipurities in the
water collecting around joints, especially faucet controls and ells.
My best guess, anyway IME. We bought a home in Chgo that had that problem
with all the faucets, so rather than do flow rates into buckets & all that,
I just replumbed all the runs, from the street to the sinks, toilets, etc..
We still had great water flow 17 years later when we sold it and moved.

No need to be very concerned as long as you can get along with it. It'll
continue to get slower and slower for years until yuo get to the point you
feel it needs to be fixed.
Steel pipes are worse than copper is worse than plastic. Well water is
worse than city water as a rule, not always.

On Mar 25, 7:37*pm, "Twayne" wrote:
,
typed:



I replaced two old style Sayco valve stems with new of
same stems in a tub/shower and the water pressure is
weaker on the hot water side. Turning it full on doesn't
increase the pressure, whereas the cold water side
increases in pressure as the valve is opened. *The cold
full on is much stronger than the hot full on. *There are
no leaks, on the outside of the wall anyway.

This tub has always been used just as a shower and I
hadn't really noticed what it was like with the water
selected to exit the tub spout before, so I don't know
how the current situation compares to the what it was
doing before.

Should I be concerned about the difference in the
pressure?

Thanks.

Hot water pipes, especially if there is a water softener that's not kept in
service, tend to plug up faster than the cold water pipes. It's not an
unusual situation. The blockage is probably right up close to the water
heater or water softener if there is one. It's just the imipurities in the
water collecting around joints, especially faucet controls and ells.
* My best guess, anyway IME. We bought a home in Chgo that had that problem
with all the faucets, so rather than do flow rates into buckets & all that,
I just replumbed all the runs, from the street to the sinks, toilets, etc...
We still had great water flow 17 years later when we sold it and moved.

* No need to be very concerned as long as you can get along with it. It'll
continue to get slower and slower for years until yuo get to the point you
feel it needs to be fixed.
* *Steel pipes are worse than copper is worse than plastic. Well water is
worse than city water as a rule, not always.

The other faucets have equal flow, so if there is a reduction in the
capacity of the piping it's probably nearer this faucet.

Thanks.

On Mar 25, 7:37*pm, "Twayne" wrote:
,
typed:



I replaced two old style Sayco valve stems with new of
same stems in a tub/shower and the water pressure is
weaker on the hot water side. Turning it full on doesn't
increase the pressure, whereas the cold water side
increases in pressure as the valve is opened. *The cold
full on is much stronger than the hot full on. *There are
no leaks, on the outside of the wall anyway.

This tub has always been used just as a shower and I
hadn't really noticed what it was like with the water
selected to exit the tub spout before, so I don't know
how the current situation compares to the what it was
doing before.

Should I be concerned about the difference in the
pressure?

Thanks.

Hot water pipes, especially if there is a water softener that's not kept in
service, tend to plug up faster than the cold water pipes. It's not an
unusual situation. The blockage is probably right up close to the water
heater or water softener if there is one. It's just the imipurities in the
water collecting around joints, especially faucet controls and ells.
* My best guess, anyway IME. We bought a home in Chgo that had that problem
with all the faucets, so rather than do flow rates into buckets & all that,
I just replumbed all the runs, from the street to the sinks, toilets, etc...
We still had great water flow 17 years later when we sold it and moved.

* No need to be very concerned as long as you can get along with it. It'll
continue to get slower and slower for years until yuo get to the point you
feel it needs to be fixed.
* *Steel pipes are worse than copper is worse than plastic. Well water is
worse than city water as a rule, not always.

Your comment about pipes getting clogged made me get out one of the
few tools I use comfortably, the flashlight. Found there was a build
up of what I assume were calcium deposits in the seat (?), so I
gingerly loosened it with a screwdriver, turned on the water to try to
blow it out of there and voila, seemingly normal flow.

Thanks for the ideas.

Not to pressure you, but you did mean flow?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

Should I be concerned about the difference in the
pressure?

Thanks.

actually its FLOW not pressure, try installing the old
parts and see
if that helps

Oh, flow. Thanks. Okay, replaced the hot with the old stem
and it's
still less *flow* on that side than the cold side.

Score! Thanks for sharing what worked.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...


No need to be very concerned as long as you can get along
with it. It'll
continue to get slower and slower for years until yuo get
to the point you
feel it needs to be fixed.
Steel pipes are worse than copper is worse than plastic.
Well water is
worse than city water as a rule, not always.

Your comment about pipes getting clogged made me get out one
of the
few tools I use comfortably, the flashlight. Found there
was a build
up of what I assume were calcium deposits in the seat (?),
so I
gingerly loosened it with a screwdriver, turned on the water
to try to
blow it out of there and voila, seemingly normal flow.

Thanks for the ideas.

On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 17:14:54 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Mar 25, 7:37*pm, "Twayne" wrote:
,
typed:



I replaced two old style Sayco valve stems with new of
same stems in a tub/shower and the water pressure is
weaker on the hot water side. Turning it full on doesn't
increase the pressure, whereas the cold water side
increases in pressure as the valve is opened. *The cold
full on is much stronger than the hot full on. *There are
no leaks, on the outside of the wall anyway.

This tub has always been used just as a shower and I
hadn't really noticed what it was like with the water
selected to exit the tub spout before, so I don't know
how the current situation compares to the what it was
doing before.

Should I be concerned about the difference in the
pressure?

Thanks.

Hot water pipes, especially if there is a water softener that's not kept in
service, tend to plug up faster than the cold water pipes. It's not an
unusual situation. The blockage is probably right up close to the water
heater or water softener if there is one. It's just the imipurities in the
water collecting around joints, especially faucet controls and ells.
* My best guess, anyway IME. We bought a home in Chgo that had that problem
with all the faucets, so rather than do flow rates into buckets & all that,
I just replumbed all the runs, from the street to the sinks, toilets, etc..
We still had great water flow 17 years later when we sold it and moved.

* No need to be very concerned as long as you can get along with it. It'll
continue to get slower and slower for years until yuo get to the point you
feel it needs to be fixed.
* *Steel pipes are worse than copper is worse than plastic. Well water is
worse than city water as a rule, not always.

Your comment about pipes getting clogged made me get out one of the
few tools I use comfortably, the flashlight.

Most people can use a flashlight well, but don't forget that some need
a left-handed flashlight, sold at specialty stores.

Found there was a build
up of what I assume were calcium deposits in the seat (?), so I
gingerly loosened it with a screwdriver, turned on the water to try to
blow it out of there and voila, seemingly normal flow.

Thanks for the ideas.

On Mar 26, 1:53*am, mm wrote:
On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 17:14:54 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Mar 25, 7:37 pm, "Twayne" wrote:
,
typed:

I replaced two old style Sayco valve stems with new of
same stems in a tub/shower and the water pressure is
weaker on the hot water side. Turning it full on doesn't
increase the pressure, whereas the cold water side
increases in pressure as the valve is opened. The cold
full on is much stronger than the hot full on. There are
no leaks, on the outside of the wall anyway.

This tub has always been used just as a shower and I
hadn't really noticed what it was like with the water
selected to exit the tub spout before, so I don't know
how the current situation compares to the what it was
doing before.

Should I be concerned about the difference in the
pressure?

Thanks.

Hot water pipes, especially if there is a water softener that's not kept in
service, tend to plug up faster than the cold water pipes. It's not an
unusual situation. The blockage is probably right up close to the water
heater or water softener if there is one. It's just the imipurities in the
water collecting around joints, especially faucet controls and ells.
My best guess, anyway IME. We bought a home in Chgo that had that problem
with all the faucets, so rather than do flow rates into buckets & all that,
I just replumbed all the runs, from the street to the sinks, toilets, etc..
We still had great water flow 17 years later when we sold it and moved..

No need to be very concerned as long as you can get along with it. It'll
continue to get slower and slower for years until yuo get to the point you
feel it needs to be fixed.
Steel pipes are worse than copper is worse than plastic. Well water is
worse than city water as a rule, not always.

Your comment about pipes getting clogged made me get out one of the
few tools I use comfortably, the flashlight.

Most people can use a flashlight well, but don't forget that some need
a left-handed flashlight, sold at specialty stores.

I know. I had to pay extra for it. But it paid off because I had to
hold the screwdriver in my right hand.

On Mar 25, 10:53*pm, mm wrote:
On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 17:14:54 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Mar 25, 7:37 pm, "Twayne" wrote:
,
typed:

I replaced two old style Sayco valve stems with new of
same stems in a tub/shower and the water pressure is
weaker on the hot water side. Turning it full on doesn't
increase the pressure, whereas the cold water side
increases in pressure as the valve is opened. The cold
full on is much stronger than the hot full on. There are
no leaks, on the outside of the wall anyway.

This tub has always been used just as a shower and I
hadn't really noticed what it was like with the water
selected to exit the tub spout before, so I don't know
how the current situation compares to the what it was
doing before.

Should I be concerned about the difference in the
pressure?

Thanks.

Hot water pipes, especially if there is a water softener that's not kept in
service, tend to plug up faster than the cold water pipes. It's not an
unusual situation. The blockage is probably right up close to the water
heater or water softener if there is one. It's just the imipurities in the
water collecting around joints, especially faucet controls and ells.
My best guess, anyway IME. We bought a home in Chgo that had that problem
with all the faucets, so rather than do flow rates into buckets & all that,
I just replumbed all the runs, from the street to the sinks, toilets, etc..
We still had great water flow 17 years later when we sold it and moved..

No need to be very concerned as long as you can get along with it. It'll
continue to get slower and slower for years until yuo get to the point you
feel it needs to be fixed.
Steel pipes are worse than copper is worse than plastic. Well water is
worse than city water as a rule, not always.

Your comment about pipes getting clogged made me get out one of the
few tools I use comfortably, the flashlight.

Most people can use a flashlight well, but don't forget that some need
a left-handed flashlight, sold at specialty stores.



Found there was a build
up of what I assume were calcium deposits in the seat (?), so I
gingerly loosened it with a screwdriver, turned on the water to try to
blow it out of there and voila, seemingly normal flow.

Thanks for the ideas.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And be sure to get one built in whatever hemisphere you are or the
light will run backwards.

Harry K