I haven't painted in awhile and I see everyone using those little
paint rollers. They must be good for something--what is it?

On Tue, 8 Mar 2011 12:44:38 -0800 (PST), so
wrote:

I haven't painted in awhile and I see everyone using those little
paint rollers. They must be good for something--what is it?


Painting? They work well painting the bottom of fascia board....

I'm no painter. But, the one time I used them I could dip
them straight into the paint can. I also covered a lot of
wall in a hurry, actually. No rolling pan needed. Worked,
for me.

I found the rollers from one store would not fit the handle
from the other store.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"so" wrote in message
...
I haven't painted in awhile and I see everyone using those
little
paint rollers. They must be good for something--what is it?

Great for trim work. You still need to cut some stuff in with a brush.
I also use them for putting on wallpaper paste in the joint/overlap
area. Also very handy for doing areas that are "tight" like over doors
and windows where the regular roller won't conveniently fit.

so wrote:
I haven't painted in awhile and I see everyone using those little
paint rollers. They must be good for something--what is it?

Painting.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm no painter. But, the one time I used them I could dip
them straight into the paint can. I also covered a lot of
wall in a hurry, actually. No rolling pan needed. Worked,
for me.

I found the rollers from one store would not fit the handle
from the other store.

That works, but in general one should avoid painting from the can: Oxygen is
the enemy of paint!

Assuming latex paint, when ready to return the can of paint to storage,
follow these procedures to mitigate oxygen destruction:
1. Lay a piece of plastic over the upturned lid (cling-wrap, bit of plastic
bag, etc.).
2. Spray the plastic with PAM (original, not the garlic-flavored model)
3. Exhale into the can three times (to displace the oxygen with CO2)*
4. Hammer on lid with the plastic.
5. Invert can and store upside-down.

The PAM will migrate to the top of the paint and form a thin oil barrier
against any remaining oxygen in the can.

--------
* Or a squirt of nitrogen or argon gas (found in all well-equipped
workshops).

On 3/8/2011 3:44 PM, so wrote:
I haven't painted in awhile and I see everyone using those little
paint rollers. They must be good for something--what is it?

Great for small projects. Also good for doors and trim, followed by
brushing.

I've been using them to clean out my ears. I've got one that
I use for my belly button.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Sjouke Burry" wrote in
message ...
so wrote:
I haven't painted in awhile and I see everyone using those
little
paint rollers. They must be good for something--what is
it?

Painting.

On 3/8/2011 5:58 PM, HeyBub wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm no painter. But, the one time I used them I could dip
them straight into the paint can. I also covered a lot of
wall in a hurry, actually. No rolling pan needed. Worked,
for me.

I found the rollers from one store would not fit the handle
from the other store.

That works, but in general one should avoid painting from the can: Oxygen is
the enemy of paint!

Assuming latex paint, when ready to return the can of paint to storage,
follow these procedures to mitigate oxygen destruction:
1. Lay a piece of plastic over the upturned lid (cling-wrap, bit of plastic
bag, etc.).
2. Spray the plastic with PAM (original, not the garlic-flavored model)
3. Exhale into the can three times (to displace the oxygen with CO2)*
4. Hammer on lid with the plastic.
5. Invert can and store upside-down.

No one I know is willing to risk step 5. I wonder if spraying a bit of
PAM in the can would do the same trick.

The PAM will migrate to the top of the paint and form a thin oil barrier
against any remaining oxygen in the can.

Nice set of hints you previously posted. I was impressed with not only
them, but how many you remembered. Got a hard copy somewhere.

Jeff

--------
* Or a squirt of nitrogen or argon gas (found in all well-equipped
workshops).

On 3/8/2011 4:21 PM, deadgoose wrote:
Great for trim work. You still need to cut some stuff in with a brush.
I also use them for putting on wallpaper paste in the joint/overlap
area. Also very handy for doing areas that are "tight" like over doors
and windows where the regular roller won't conveniently fit.

Bought some haven't used them yet (long handle). How do they hold
paint? I need to paint the soffits (sp?) and eaves. My painter friend
said she only used them for painting behind toilets.

Jeff

On Mar 8, 2:44*pm, so wrote:
I haven't painted in awhile and I see everyone using those little
paint rollers. They must be good for something--what is it?

Spot touch-up and trim.

On Mar 9, 7:33*am, Bob Villa wrote:
On Mar 8, 2:44*pm, so wrote:

I haven't painted in awhile and I see everyone using those little
paint rollers. They must be good for something--what is it?

Spot touch-up and trim.

I used them for fiberglass work. Wetting out the cloth.

Jeff Thies wrote:

That works, but in general one should avoid painting from the can:
Oxygen is the enemy of paint!

Assuming latex paint, when ready to return the can of paint to
storage, follow these procedures to mitigate oxygen destruction:
1. Lay a piece of plastic over the upturned lid (cling-wrap, bit of
plastic bag, etc.).
2. Spray the plastic with PAM (original, not the garlic-flavored
model) 3. Exhale into the can three times (to displace the oxygen with
CO2)*
4. Hammer on lid with the plastic.
5. Invert can and store upside-down.

No one I know is willing to risk step 5. I wonder if spraying a bit of
PAM in the can would do the same trick.

The PAM will migrate to the top of the paint and form a thin oil
barrier against any remaining oxygen in the can.

Nice set of hints you previously posted. I was impressed with not only
them, but how many you remembered. Got a hard copy somewhere.


The presenter had a 4x7" card on each seat labeled "Tips". I wrote down the
ones that impressed me. Of course that turned out to be unnecessary as he
sold autographed copies of his book at the end of the show and I bought one
($20). It's the same book one could buy at Home Depot (for the same price).
Lotsa good t80

HeyBub wrote:
Jeff Thies wrote:

That works, but in general one should avoid painting from the can:
Oxygen is the enemy of paint!

Assuming latex paint, when ready to return the can of paint to
storage, follow these procedures to mitigate oxygen destruction:
1. Lay a piece of plastic over the upturned lid (cling-wrap, bit of
plastic bag, etc.).
2. Spray the plastic with PAM (original, not the garlic-flavored
model) 3. Exhale into the can three times (to displace the oxygen
with CO2)*
4. Hammer on lid with the plastic.
5. Invert can and store upside-down.

No one I know is willing to risk step 5. I wonder if spraying a bit
of PAM in the can would do the same trick.

The PAM will migrate to the top of the paint and form a thin oil
barrier against any remaining oxygen in the can.

Nice set of hints you previously posted. I was impressed with not
only them, but how many you remembered. Got a hard copy somewhere.


The presenter had a 4x7" card on each seat labeled "Tips". I wrote
down the ones that impressed me. Of course that turned out to be
unnecessary as he sold autographed copies of his book at the end of
the show and I bought one ($20). It's the same book one could buy at
Home Depot (for the same price). Lotsa good t80

Lotsa good tips. Here's some mo
* Use a ladder that FACES your work; never one that you have to paint to
your side.
* Sheets and the like are poor drop cloths - the paint soaks through. Best
is canvas with plastic backing. The canvas absorbs the paint and the plastic
backing prevents soak through. Giant plastic sheeting is also good.
* Brush & roller spinner. I finally got one via Ebay. I did go to my local
Sherwin-Williams store looking for a brush spinner and a Pantone color strip
or wheel. "Don't have those" said the clerk. "Where do you suggest I try," I
asked, "maybe a auto parts store or an unsanitary Taco stand?" He shrugged.
* I've tried the method of cleaning brushes from latex paint using a
generous dollop of fabric softener in a pail of water. Works swell! The
brush smells nice, too. I've also tried his three-step method of cleaning
brushes used for oil based paints (10 second swirls in 1. Mineral spirits,
2. 50-50 mineral spirits & alcohol, 3. 100% alcohol). This technique also is
impressive.
* Usually wall painting involves two people: one to do the cut-in at the
ceiling, another right behind to roll the wall. This painting over the
cut-in while still wet prevents a sometimes visible line where the cut-in
meets the wall paint.
* When rolling paint, an adjustable pole is quite nice. It can be retracted
when doing, for example, the inside of a closet or a hallway.
* You can make a swell paint container out of an abandoned milk jug. Cut a
largish hole in the opposite side of the handle for your brush to reach in.
The spout acts like a funnel to return unused paint to the original can. You
can even hang your brush through the spout with a nail in the brushes'
handle hole.

so wrote in news:1503d4f4-1a94-4920-95e3-
:

I haven't painted in awhile and I see everyone using those little
paint rollers. They must be good for something--what is it?

Priming & painting fascia/trim boards before installing. Final coat in
place with brush.

Prime & paint cabinet doors/frames. No brush marks.

Wall touch ups. Apply paint to target. Feather out letting roller run dry.

On Mar 9, 8:34*am, "HeyBub" wrote:

* Sheets and the like are poor drop cloths - the paint soaks through. Best
is canvas with plastic backing. The canvas absorbs the paint and the plastic
backing prevents soak through. Giant plastic sheeting is also good.

Isn't that a little slippery on non-carpeted floors?

I've been using red rosin paper taped down to my hardwood floors
with painter's tape.

Cindy Hamilton

On Mar 8, 2:58*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm no painter. But, the one time I used them I could dip
them straight into the paint can. I also covered a lot of
wall in a hurry, actually. No rolling pan needed. Worked,
for me.

I found the rollers from one store would not fit the handle
from the other store.

That works, but in general one should avoid painting from the can: Oxygen is
the enemy of paint!

Assuming latex paint, when ready to return the can of paint to storage,
follow these procedures to mitigate oxygen destruction:
1. Lay a piece of plastic over the upturned lid (cling-wrap, bit of plastic
bag, etc.).
2. Spray the plastic with PAM (original, not the garlic-flavored model)
3. Exhale into the can three times (to displace the oxygen with CO2)*
4. Hammer on lid with the plastic.
5. Invert can and store upside-down.

The PAM will migrate to the top of the paint and form a thin oil barrier
against any remaining oxygen in the can.

--------
* Or a squirt of nitrogen or argon gas (found in all well-equipped
workshops).

Sounds great. I don't use PAM or analogs.

Any other kind of fat/grease/whatever that I can apply to the plastic?

BTW: Should steps 2 and 3 PRECEDE Step 1?

TIA

HB

Cindy Hamilton wrote:
On Mar 9, 8:34 am, "HeyBub" wrote:

* Sheets and the like are poor drop cloths - the paint soaks
through. Best is canvas with plastic backing. The canvas absorbs the
paint and the plastic backing prevents soak through. Giant plastic
sheeting is also good.

Isn't that a little slippery on non-carpeted floors?

I've been using red rosin paper taped down to my hardwood floors
with painter's tape.


Yeah, that too. The point was that bed sheets and the like give a false
sense of security.

(Small gloat: Not long ago, I bought two 4x12' plastic-backed canvas drop
cloths at a church garage sale for $0.75 each.)

On 3/9/2011 12:27 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Mar 8, 2:58 pm, wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm no painter. But, the one time I used them I could dip
them straight into the paint can. I also covered a lot of
wall in a hurry, actually. No rolling pan needed. Worked,
for me.

I found the rollers from one store would not fit the handle
from the other store.

That works, but in general one should avoid painting from the can: Oxygen is
the enemy of paint!

Assuming latex paint, when ready to return the can of paint to storage,
follow these procedures to mitigate oxygen destruction:
1. Lay a piece of plastic over the upturned lid (cling-wrap, bit of plastic
bag, etc.).
2. Spray the plastic with PAM (original, not the garlic-flavored model)
3. Exhale into the can three times (to displace the oxygen with CO2)*
4. Hammer on lid with the plastic.
5. Invert can and store upside-down.

The PAM will migrate to the top of the paint and form a thin oil barrier
against any remaining oxygen in the can.

--------
* Or a squirt of nitrogen or argon gas (found in all well-equipped
workshops).

Sounds great. I don't use PAM or analogs.

Any other kind of fat/grease/whatever that I can apply to the plastic?

BTW: Should steps 2 and 3 PRECEDE Step 1?

TIA

HB

I've read advice to lay the sheet of plastic wrap onto the surface of
the paint. I've never tried that, and just closing the lid very tightly
(a few smacks with a mallet) works fine for me. If I'm going to store
paint for quite a while, I place the can into a plastic bag so that it
is less apt to rust. I've had food cans rust through on the shelf and
don't want that to happen with paint.

Higgs Boson wrote:
On Mar 8, 2:58 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm no painter. But, the one time I used them I could dip
them straight into the paint can. I also covered a lot of
wall in a hurry, actually. No rolling pan needed. Worked,
for me.

I found the rollers from one store would not fit the handle
from the other store.

That works, but in general one should avoid painting from the can:
Oxygen is the enemy of paint!

Assuming latex paint, when ready to return the can of paint to
storage, follow these procedures to mitigate oxygen destruction:
1. Lay a piece of plastic over the upturned lid (cling-wrap, bit of
plastic bag, etc.).
2. Spray the plastic with PAM (original, not the garlic-flavored
model)
3. Exhale into the can three times (to displace the oxygen with CO2)*
4. Hammer on lid with the plastic.
5. Invert can and store upside-down.

The PAM will migrate to the top of the paint and form a thin oil
barrier against any remaining oxygen in the can.

--------
* Or a squirt of nitrogen or argon gas (found in all well-equipped
workshops).

Sounds great. I don't use PAM or analogs.

Any other kind of fat/grease/whatever that I can apply to the plastic?

BTW: Should steps 2 and 3 PRECEDE Step 1?


If you can find an oil that comes in a spray can, sure you can substitute.
Perhaps you could put a couple of drops of sewing machine oil directly into
the can - it should migrate and spread to the top of the paint.

And you can perform the steps in any order you like, so long as the result
is the same.

On 3/9/2011 12:38 PM, HeyBub wrote:
Cindy Hamilton wrote:
On Mar 9, 8:34 am, wrote:

* Sheets and the like are poor drop cloths - the paint soaks
through. Best is canvas with plastic backing. The canvas absorbs the
paint and the plastic backing prevents soak through. Giant plastic
sheeting is also good.

Isn't that a little slippery on non-carpeted floors?

I've been using red rosin paper taped down to my hardwood floors
with painter's tape.


Yeah, that too. The point was that bed sheets and the like give a false
sense of security.

(Small gloat: Not long ago, I bought two 4x12' plastic-backed canvas drop
cloths at a church garage sale for $0.75 each.)

Haven't seen those yet. I've got a heavy duty canvas, and from what
I've see of my painter friends old canvas is that the holes worn through
are the biggest problem!

A pair of 4x12 sounds like a good combo. One alone is good for walls and
two overlapped is good for the ceiling.

Jeff

Storing paint- I just pound the lid back on and store the can upside-
down. For the first week I put it (inverted) in a bucket so if it
leaks I'll know about it.

So far I've done this with more than a dozen cans and only one leaked.
Also have used 10 year old paint and it was just fine.

Copyright 2011 by Shaun Eli. All rights reserved.

"Jeff Thies" wrote in message
...
On 3/8/2011 4:21 PM, deadgoose wrote:
Great for trim work. You still need to cut some stuff in with a brush.
I also use them for putting on wallpaper paste in the joint/overlap
area. Also very handy for doing areas that are "tight" like over doors
and windows where the regular roller won't conveniently fit.

Bought some haven't used them yet (long handle). How do they hold paint?
I need to paint the soffits (sp?) and eaves. My painter friend said she
only used them for painting behind toilets.

Jeff

They are the only roller I use anymore. I buy them in bulk from a local
paint store and throw them away when done. The ones I buy are the longer nap
for semi-rough surfaces. I use them everywhere.

I painted all the trim and the gable ends of a house last summer using them.
Roll it on fast and easy smooth with a brush. I did this for the oil based
primer and the latex top coat.

We did the same method on some 50 year aluminum siding about 4 years ago.
Painted is never as smooth as the baked on fish but it turned out darn good.

Do keep it mind, I don't buy or use cheap paint. Ben Moore is about all I
use.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On 3/9/2011 6:23 PM, Colbyt wrote:
"Jeff wrote in message
...
On 3/8/2011 4:21 PM, deadgoose wrote:
Great for trim work. You still need to cut some stuff in with a brush.
I also use them for putting on wallpaper paste in the joint/overlap
area. Also very handy for doing areas that are "tight" like over doors
and windows where the regular roller won't conveniently fit.

Bought some haven't used them yet (long handle). How do they hold paint?
I need to paint the soffits (sp?) and eaves. My painter friend said she
only used them for painting behind toilets.

Jeff

They are the only roller I use anymore. I buy them in bulk from a local
paint store and throw them away when done. The ones I buy are the longer nap
for semi-rough surfaces.

Holds more paint?

I use them everywhere.

I painted all the trim and the gable ends of a house last summer using them.
Roll it on fast and easy smooth with a brush. I did this for the oil based
primer and the latex top coat.

So, roll it on and brush it out? Do you dunk the roller in the can or
roll it on?

We did the same method on some 50 year aluminum siding about 4 years ago.
Painted is never as smooth as the baked on fish but it turned out darn good.

Do keep it mind, I don't buy or use cheap paint. Ben Moore is about all I
use.


Same here! We get a real good price at the distributor. They just ask:
economy, contractor or best? Easy answer! They sell a lot of paint and
have always got several guys mixing it up. I like shopping at a place
where I know I can never go wrong and wind up with crap.

Jeff

"Jeff Thies" wrote in message
...
On 3/9/2011 6:23 PM, Colbyt wrote:
"Jeff wrote in message
...
On 3/8/2011 4:21 PM, deadgoose wrote:
Great for trim work. You still need to cut some stuff in with a brush.
I also use them for putting on wallpaper paste in the joint/overlap
area. Also very handy for doing areas that are "tight" like over doors
and windows where the regular roller won't conveniently fit.

Bought some haven't used them yet (long handle). How do they hold
paint?
I need to paint the soffits (sp?) and eaves. My painter friend said she
only used them for painting behind toilets.

Jeff

They are the only roller I use anymore. I buy them in bulk from a local
paint store and throw them away when done. The ones I buy are the longer
nap
for semi-rough surfaces.

Holds more paint?

I use them everywhere.

I painted all the trim and the gable ends of a house last summer using
them.
Roll it on fast and easy smooth with a brush. I did this for the oil
based
primer and the latex top coat.

So, roll it on and brush it out? Do you dunk the roller in the can or
roll it on?

We did the same method on some 50 year aluminum siding about 4 years ago.
Painted is never as smooth as the baked on fish but it turned out darn
good.

Do keep it mind, I don't buy or use cheap paint. Ben Moore is about all
I
use.


Same here! We get a real good price at the distributor. They just ask:
economy, contractor or best? Easy answer! They sell a lot of paint and
have always got several guys mixing it up. I like shopping at a place
where I know I can never go wrong and wind up with crap.

Jeff


Outside I may use a roller pan but generally use a 2.5 gallon bucket with a
mesh ramp. The larger project gets the bucket. Inside I always use a roller
pan.

Proper loading of the roller is important. For maximum coverage you want it
fully loaded but not dripping. This helps prevent roller stripes or welts.
Properly loaded one of the little guys will hold and transfer about the same
amount of paint as a cheaper 9" roller.

The brush out treatment is only used on the exterior painting, doors and
trim. The brush smoothes the surface and eliminates any tendcy to an orange
peel finish

Colbyt

wrote:

I've read advice to lay the sheet of plastic wrap onto the surface of
the paint. I've never tried that, and just closing the lid very
tightly (a few smacks with a mallet) works fine for me. If I'm going
to store paint for quite a while, I place the can into a plastic bag
so that it is less apt to rust. I've had food cans rust through on
the shelf and don't want that to happen with paint.

Right!

Rusty cans containing stewed parsnips can only give you botulism, whereas
rust in a can of paint can screw up a whole Saturday.

"Cindy Hamilton" wrote in message
...
On Mar 9, 8:34 am, "HeyBub" wrote:

* Sheets and the like are poor drop cloths - the paint soaks through. Best
is canvas with plastic backing. The canvas absorbs the paint and the
plastic
backing prevents soak through. Giant plastic sheeting is also good.

Isn't that a little slippery on non-carpeted floors?

I've been using red rosin paper taped down to my hardwood floors
with painter's tape.

Cindy Hamilton



If you are gonna cover the entire floor , which I do , old fashion tar paper
over lapped and taped together with duct tape works best..It in effect seals
the floor from mishaps with no trip hazards...I use it for drywall and
painting...I hate drop cloths and use plastic to cover furniture ,
ect...When you have to pay for mistakes to other peoples floors and
furniture you cover it GOOD...LOL...

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 23:12:15 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

I've been using red rosin paper taped down to my hardwood floors
with painter's tape.

Cindy Hamilton



If you are gonna cover the entire floor , which I do , old fashion tar
paper
over lapped and taped together with duct tape works best..It in effect
seals
the floor from mishaps with no trip hazards...I use it for drywall and
painting...I hate drop cloths and use plastic to cover furniture ,
ect...When you have to pay for mistakes to other peoples floors and
furniture you cover it GOOD...LOL...

When I had my patio cover stuccoed (three coat), ceiling and columns
the guys put down roofing felt / tar paper. Great idea. When
finished they rolled it up for the trash bin. What a clean job it was.


My customers are always similarly impressed with how easy and clean it
is...For 20 or 30 bucks and a few minutes to put it down it pays back in
clean up time and customers are ALWAYS impressed...