Back in November, my HVAC guy replaced my thermostat on my heat pump with a
Honeywell TH8320. He did it at the same time that he corrected a wiring problem
near the air handler underneath the house. A terminal overheated and melted a
wire. The thermostat wiring was not affected. The heat has been working fine.

Today it got warm enough that we turned on the air conditioning. After a few
minutes, we noticed that it had gotten noticeably warmer in the house. The vents
were blowing very warm air. The heat strips may have been on.

My natural assumption is that the new thermostat is wiring wrong. Here is the
way it is wired:

RC - Red (cooling power)
R - no connection (heating power)
O/B - Orange (changeover valve)
Y - Yellow (compressor)
G - Green (fan)
C - Blue (common)
E - White (emergency heat relay)
AUX - White (aux heat relay)

E and AUX are jumpered together.

The manual says that R and RC should be jumpered together UNLESS the system is a
two-transformer system. My system has only one transformer.

Here are my questions, with what little I know:

1. Should there be a jumper between R and RC?
2. If there should be a jumper, how is heat working with a wire going to RC?

While I was troubleshooting, my HVAC guy called me back. He's in bed with the
flu. Just my luck.

I'll post a picture to the present wiring in a few moments. You guys have helped
me tremendously before. Thanks!

On 2/18/2011 7:22 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
Back in November, my HVAC guy replaced my thermostat on my heat pump with a
Honeywell TH8320. He did it at the same time that he corrected a wiring problem
near the air handler underneath the house. A terminal overheated and melted a
wire. The thermostat wiring was not affected. The heat has been working fine.

Here is a picture of the present wiring:

http://tinyurl.com/4lz7b5m

or the direct link:

http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a.../th8320-01.jpg

You can't see it well in the picture, but there is a jumper between E and AUX.
It's hidden by the black wire.

On Feb 18, 7:22*pm, mcp6453 wrote:
Back in November, my HVAC guy replaced my thermostat on my heat pump with a
Honeywell TH8320. He did it at the same time that he corrected a wiring problem
near the air handler underneath the house. A terminal overheated and melted a
wire. The thermostat wiring was not affected. The heat has been working fine.

Today it got warm enough that we turned on the air conditioning. After a few
minutes, we noticed that it had gotten noticeably warmer in the house. The vents
were blowing very warm air. The heat strips may have been on.

My natural assumption is that the new thermostat is wiring wrong. Here is the
way it is wired:

RC - Red (cooling power)
R *- no connection (heating power)
O/B - Orange (changeover valve)
Y - Yellow (compressor)
G - Green (fan)
C - Blue (common)
E - White (emergency heat relay)
AUX - White (aux heat relay)

E and AUX are jumpered together.

The manual says that R and RC should be jumpered together UNLESS the system is a
two-transformer system. My system has only one transformer.

Here are my questions, with what little I know:

1. Should there be a jumper between R and RC?

Yes, just like the manual says, unless you have seperate transformers
for heating
and cooling.


2. If there should be a jumper, how is heat working with a wire going to RC?

R and RC provide the power source that the thermostat then connects to
the
various wires to initiate action. Since they are connected together,
let's just
call them R/RC. By connecting that point to Y it activates the
compressor.
Connecting it to G turns on the fan, etc.




While I was troubleshooting, my HVAC guy called me back. He's in bed with the
flu. Just my luck.

I'll post a picture to the present wiring in a few moments. You guys have helped
me tremendously before. Thanks!

I have this thermostat, but it's on a conventional system, not a heat
pump. My
understanding of the difference between aux heat and emergency heat is
that
aux is used in conjunction with the heat pump in cases where the heat
pump
cannot supply enough heat, eg outside temps too low, but the heap pump
keeps working too. Emergency heat disables the heat pump and uses
whatever
the emergency heat source is. I would think in many, if not most
cases, that
heat source would be the same. So, I would guess that it would be
common to
have aux and emerg heat terminals jumpered.

What you need to do is figure out what terminals those wires are
connected
to at the other end. It's possible something is wired up wrong, but
you
won't be able to tell without seeing what the wires connect to on the
other end.

You should also put the thermostat into installer mode and verify that
it is set
up correctly for the system you have. You have to select the system
type, number
of stages, etc.

On 2/18/2011 8:23 PM, wrote:
On Feb 18, 7:22 pm, mcp6453 wrote:
Back in November, my HVAC guy replaced my thermostat on my heat pump with a
Honeywell TH8320. He did it at the same time that he corrected a wiring problem
near the air handler underneath the house. A terminal overheated and melted a
wire. The thermostat wiring was not affected. The heat has been working fine.

Today it got warm enough that we turned on the air conditioning. After a few
minutes, we noticed that it had gotten noticeably warmer in the house. The vents
were blowing very warm air. The heat strips may have been on.

My natural assumption is that the new thermostat is wiring wrong. Here is the
way it is wired:

RC - Red (cooling power)
R - no connection (heating power)
O/B - Orange (changeover valve)
Y - Yellow (compressor)
G - Green (fan)
C - Blue (common)
E - White (emergency heat relay)
AUX - White (aux heat relay)

E and AUX are jumpered together.

The manual says that R and RC should be jumpered together UNLESS the system is a
two-transformer system. My system has only one transformer.

Here are my questions, with what little I know:

1. Should there be a jumper between R and RC?

Yes, just like the manual says, unless you have seperate transformers
for heating
and cooling.


2. If there should be a jumper, how is heat working with a wire going to RC?

R and RC provide the power source that the thermostat then connects to
the
various wires to initiate action. Since they are connected together,
let's just
call them R/RC. By connecting that point to Y it activates the
compressor.
Connecting it to G turns on the fan, etc.

While I was troubleshooting, my HVAC guy called me back. He's in bed with the
flu. Just my luck.

I'll post a picture to the present wiring in a few moments. You guys have helped
me tremendously before. Thanks!

I have this thermostat, but it's on a conventional system, not a heat
pump. My
understanding of the difference between aux heat and emergency heat is
that
aux is used in conjunction with the heat pump in cases where the heat
pump
cannot supply enough heat, eg outside temps too low, but the heap pump
keeps working too. Emergency heat disables the heat pump and uses
whatever
the emergency heat source is. I would think in many, if not most
cases, that
heat source would be the same. So, I would guess that it would be
common to
have aux and emerg heat terminals jumpered.

What you need to do is figure out what terminals those wires are
connected
to at the other end. It's possible something is wired up wrong, but
you
won't be able to tell without seeing what the wires connect to on the
other end.

You should also put the thermostat into installer mode and verify that
it is set
up correctly for the system you have. You have to select the system
type, number
of stages, etc.

I caught the techs at Honeywell before they left at 8:00. They had me verify
that location 170 is 7, but they had me change location 190 to 1. Then I added
the jumper. It didn't cool, so I called an HVAC company that a friend uses. A
tech answered the phone, and we scheduled an appointment for Monday morning.

He asked me to step through the things I had done. He knew the thermostat by
heart. He asked me what was in location 190. Then he asked me what unit I have,
which is Carrier. He said that 190 needs to be a 0. I changed it back, and
everything seems to be working.

He's still going to come out Monday morning to verify that everything is okay.
There was a wiring problem on the air handler (unrelated to the thermostat) in
November, so he's going to check to make sure that's okay. Hopefully all is well
until then.

Thanks very much for your input. This information is very helpful for me to
understand what's going on.

On Feb 18, 9:20*pm, mcp6453 wrote:
On 2/18/2011 8:23 PM, wrote:





On Feb 18, 7:22 pm, mcp6453 wrote:
Back in November, my HVAC guy replaced my thermostat on my heat pump with a
Honeywell TH8320. He did it at the same time that he corrected a wiring problem
near the air handler underneath the house. A terminal overheated and melted a
wire. The thermostat wiring was not affected. The heat has been working fine.

Today it got warm enough that we turned on the air conditioning. After a few
minutes, we noticed that it had gotten noticeably warmer in the house. The vents
were blowing very warm air. The heat strips may have been on.

My natural assumption is that the new thermostat is wiring wrong. Here is the
way it is wired:

RC - Red (cooling power)
R *- no connection (heating power)
O/B - Orange (changeover valve)
Y - Yellow (compressor)
G - Green (fan)
C - Blue (common)
E - White (emergency heat relay)
AUX - White (aux heat relay)

E and AUX are jumpered together.

The manual says that R and RC should be jumpered together UNLESS the system is a
two-transformer system. My system has only one transformer.

Here are my questions, with what little I know:

1. Should there be a jumper between R and RC?

Yes, just like the manual says, unless you have seperate transformers
for heating
and cooling.

2. If there should be a jumper, how is heat working with a wire going to RC?

R and RC provide the power source that the thermostat then connects to
the
various wires to initiate action. *Since they are connected together,
let's just
call them R/RC. *By connecting that point to Y *it activates the
compressor.
* Connecting it to G turns on *the fan, etc.

While I was troubleshooting, my HVAC guy called me back. He's in bed with the
flu. Just my luck.

I'll post a picture to the present wiring in a few moments. You guys have helped
me tremendously before. Thanks!

I have this thermostat, but it's on a conventional system, not a heat
pump. *My
understanding of the difference between aux heat and emergency heat is
that
aux is used in conjunction with the heat pump in cases where the heat
pump
cannot supply enough heat, eg outside temps too low, but the heap pump
keeps working too. * Emergency heat disables the heat pump and uses
whatever
the emergency heat source is. * I would think in many, if not most
cases, that
heat source would be the same. *So, I would guess that it would be
common to
have aux and emerg heat terminals jumpered.

What you need to do is figure out what terminals those wires are
connected
to at the other end. *It's possible something is wired up wrong, but
you
won't be able to tell without seeing what the wires connect to on the
other end.

You should also put the thermostat into installer mode and verify that
it is set
up correctly for the system you have. * You have to select the system
type, number
of stages, etc.

I caught the techs at Honeywell before they left at 8:00. They had me verify
that location 170 is 7, but they had me change location 190 to 1. Then I added
the jumper. It didn't cool, so I called an HVAC company that a friend uses. A
tech answered the phone, and we scheduled an appointment for Monday morning.

He asked me to step through the things I had done. He knew the thermostat by
heart. He asked me what was in location 190. Then he asked me what unit I have,
which is Carrier. He said that 190 needs to be a 0. I changed it back, and
everything seems to be working.

He's still going to come out Monday morning to verify that everything is okay.
There was a wiring problem on the air handler (unrelated to the thermostat) in
November, so he's going to check to make sure that's okay. Hopefully all is well
until then.

Thanks very much for your input. This information is very helpful for me to
understand what's going on.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Glad to see it worked out for you. Interesting that you got Honeywell
to answer
your questions for you. I called them up a few weeks ago on the same
thermostat and they told me to get lost. The help desk refused to
answer
ANY question related to the "install" menu. He insisted that product
is
"to be installed by a licensed contractor only". You can't find the
install
manual on their website either. Unbelievable. There position is
that having
bought their product, if I wanted to change an install menu item, like
say
the number of cycles it will run per hour, I have to call a "licensed
contractor".
So, on top of paying for their thermostat and presumbly an HVAC
contractor
to install it in the first place, if I want to change it's operation
at all, I should pay
$100 for an HVAC guy to come out and change one bit
for me..... Totally ****ed me off. It's a great thermostat, but
given a choice
I won't buy any Honeywell products from here on out.

BTW, where does a contractor get a license to install a thermostat?
The
imbecile on the phone couldn't answer that question. In most parts of
the
USA, thermostats are routinely installed by everyone from homeowners
to handymen. Obviously, what they really want to protect is their
silly
marketing strategy, even though you can buy these thermostats all over
the place on Ebay. And you can buy their other thermostats at HD and
Lowes.

On Sat, 19 Feb 2011 06:15:45 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:


On Feb 18, 7:22 pm, mcp6453 wrote:
Back in November, my HVAC guy replaced my thermostat on my heat pump with a
Honeywell TH8320.
I called them up a few weeks ago on the same
thermostat and they told me to get lost. The help desk refused to
answer
ANY question related to the "install" menu. He insisted that product
is
"to be installed by a licensed contractor only". You can't find the
install
manual on their website either. Unbelievable. There position is
that having
bought their product, if I wanted to change an install menu item, like
say
the number of cycles it will run per hour, I have to call a "licensed
contractor".
Here's the installation manual for the series. Installer setup manual
access is addressed about half way in:
http://www.hydro-temp.com/help/drawi...069-1894ES.pdf
HTH

On Feb 20, 10:30*am, starrin wrote:
On Sat, 19 Feb 2011 06:15:45 -0800 (PST), "





wrote:
On Feb 18, 7:22 pm, mcp6453 wrote:
Back in November, my HVAC guy replaced my thermostat on my heat pump with a
Honeywell TH8320.
*I called them up a few weeks ago on the same
thermostat and they told me to get lost. * The help desk refused to
answer
ANY question related to the "install" menu. * He insisted that product
is
"to be installed by a licensed contractor only". * You can't find the
install
manual on their website either. * Unbelievable. *There position is
that having
bought their product, if I wanted to change an install menu item, like
say
the number of cycles it will run per hour, I have to call a "licensed
contractor".

Here's the installation manual for the series. *Installer setup manual
access is addressed about half way in:http://www.hydro-temp.com/help/drawi...069-1894ES.pdf
HTH- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks, but I had that install manual at the time. My remark was just
to
let others know how Honeywell operates. It is all the more
remarkable
because as you point out, the install manual is available on the
internet
to anyone from various websites, but not from Honeywell.

On 2/20/2011 1:26 PM, wrote:

bought their product, if I wanted to change an install menu item, like
Here's the installation manual for the series. Installer setup manual
access is addressed about half way in:http://www.hydro-temp.com/help/drawi...069-1894ES.pdf
HTH- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks, but I had that install manual at the time. My remark was just
to
let others know how Honeywell operates. It is all the more
remarkable
because as you point out, the install manual is available on the
internet
to anyone from various websites, but not from Honeywell.

I had to call them three or four times, but all but one person was willing to
speak with me about it. One guy was a jerk. Maybe it helped that I told them
truthfully that at 8PM on Friday afternoon with my HVAC guy in bed with the flu,
I was out of options.

For what it's worth, Honeywell helped me understand a lot about the thermostat,
but much of the advice they gave me was wrong. The last guy was great, but he
had me change 190 to a 1 without asking what brand of unit I had. The location
had to be a 0 for a Carrier. Nevertheless, the help they gave me enabled me to
get to a solution with a local HVAC guy, so I do appreciate the assistance.

The link above is the correct manual on the Honeywell site, if someone needs it.

On Feb 21, 7:20*am, mcp6453 wrote:
On 2/20/2011 1:26 PM, wrote:

bought their product, if I wanted to change an install menu item, like
Here's the installation manual for the series. *Installer setup manual
access is addressed about half way in:http://www.hydro-temp.com/help/drawi...069-1894ES.pdf
HTH- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks, but I had that install manual at the time. *My remark was just
to
*let others know how Honeywell operates. *It is all the more
remarkable
because as you point out, the install manual is available on the
internet
to anyone from various websites, but not from Honeywell.

I had to call them three or four times, but all but one person was willing to
speak with me about it. One guy was a jerk.

That;s probably the guy I got. Sounded like Lawrence Welk. Maybe it
was
his son. Wasn't he from Minnesota?


Maybe it helped that I told them
truthfully that at 8PM on Friday afternoon with my HVAC guy in bed with the flu,
I was out of options.

For what it's worth, Honeywell helped me understand a lot about the thermostat,
but much of the advice they gave me was wrong.

That's interesting. So, their position is they won't support it
unless you're a
"licensed contractor", but they themselves don't know how it works.


The last guy was great, but he
had me change 190 to a 1 without asking what brand of unit I had. The location
had to be a 0 for a Carrier. Nevertheless, the help they gave me enabled me to
get to a solution with a local HVAC guy, so I do appreciate the assistance.

The link above is the correct manual on the Honeywell site, if someone needs it.

Not to be nit picky, but the link above is NOT to Honeywell's site.
I could not find
the installation manual anywhere on Honeywell's site. . It's probably
there in some
hidden part, only accessible by authorized agents. If you google, it
comes up at
HVAC companies, etc, but not at Honeywell.