Mother Nature is being sarcastic with me. I went into basement, looking
for leaks from post-blizzard thaw currently underway. Instead, I find
puddle in furnace room (full of nasty things I won't describe), and 2
rotted slits in the bottom center of soil line from toilet, one on
either side of the wye leading up to the flange. Slits are very
straight-edged, almost look like they were done with a router.

I don't have the tools or the time to try to fix this myself this week
month, and my sweating skills suck anyway. Anybody wanna SWAG how much
a plumber is gonna charge me to replace 3-4 feet of copper? Bronze wye
under toilet, and another bronze wye under vent stack a foot away with a
cleanout (blocked by a framed wall) on the back side. Will they be able
to reuse these wyes? I figure it will be half a dozen joints overall
(unless they need to get into the vertical runs), a coupling and maybe
new wyes, and maybe even lifting the toilet and replacing the flange and
starting over. Open ceiling with decent access to the pipes.

To pacify plumber, I'm gonna give him my whole plumbing punch list (half
a dozen items, small to medium), and ask for an estimate for 'later'
work. I also plan to keep saying 'cash' when I talk to him. I may
eventually have all the basement drains replaced with PVC (which should
resist my crappy well water better), but right now only looking for a
good workmanlike spot repair, so I can get furnace room dried out and
start scraping up the filth. At least I don't have to pay golden time
for the work- stuff like this is why I insisted on a house with 2
bathrooms, and the one in the addition feeds into septic line outside
the basement wall and five feet lower, so it is safe to use.

Any useful ideas or sympathy appreciated. Rest of line doesn't show any
rot, but previous owner cleaned and shellacked it 6-7 years ago. Light
tapping along bottom didn't produce any 'dead' sounds.

--
aem sends...

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 22:55:49 -0500, aemeijers
wrote:

Mother Nature is being sarcastic with me. I went into basement, looking
for leaks from post-blizzard thaw currently underway. Instead, I find
puddle in furnace room (full of nasty things I won't describe), and 2
rotted slits in the bottom center of soil line from toilet, one on
either side of the wye leading up to the flange. Slits are very
straight-edged, almost look like they were done with a router.

I don't have the tools or the time to try to fix this myself this week
month, and my sweating skills suck anyway. Anybody wanna SWAG how much
a plumber is gonna charge me to replace 3-4 feet of copper? Bronze wye
under toilet, and another bronze wye under vent stack a foot away with a
cleanout (blocked by a framed wall) on the back side. Will they be able
to reuse these wyes? I figure it will be half a dozen joints overall
(unless they need to get into the vertical runs), a coupling and maybe
new wyes, and maybe even lifting the toilet and replacing the flange and
starting over. Open ceiling with decent access to the pipes.

To pacify plumber, I'm gonna give him my whole plumbing punch list (half
a dozen items, small to medium), and ask for an estimate for 'later'
work. I also plan to keep saying 'cash' when I talk to him. I may
eventually have all the basement drains replaced with PVC (which should
resist my crappy well water better), but right now only looking for a
good workmanlike spot repair, so I can get furnace room dried out and
start scraping up the filth. At least I don't have to pay golden time
for the work- stuff like this is why I insisted on a house with 2
bathrooms, and the one in the addition feeds into septic line outside
the basement wall and five feet lower, so it is safe to use.

Any useful ideas or sympathy appreciated. Rest of line doesn't show any
rot, but previous owner cleaned and shellacked it 6-7 years ago. Light
tapping along bottom didn't produce any 'dead' sounds.
Your plumber will almost certainly replace it with plastic, and I
would not let him do it any other way.

On 2/15/2011 11:05 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 22:55:49 -0500,
wrote:

Mother Nature is being sarcastic with me. I went into basement, looking
for leaks from post-blizzard thaw currently underway. Instead, I find
puddle in furnace room (full of nasty things I won't describe), and 2
rotted slits in the bottom center of soil line from toilet, one on
either side of the wye leading up to the flange. Slits are very
straight-edged, almost look like they were done with a router.

I don't have the tools or the time to try to fix this myself this week
month, and my sweating skills suck anyway. Anybody wanna SWAG how much
a plumber is gonna charge me to replace 3-4 feet of copper? Bronze wye
under toilet, and another bronze wye under vent stack a foot away with a
cleanout (blocked by a framed wall) on the back side. Will they be able
to reuse these wyes? I figure it will be half a dozen joints overall
(unless they need to get into the vertical runs), a coupling and maybe
new wyes, and maybe even lifting the toilet and replacing the flange and
starting over. Open ceiling with decent access to the pipes.

To pacify plumber, I'm gonna give him my whole plumbing punch list (half
a dozen items, small to medium), and ask for an estimate for 'later'
work. I also plan to keep saying 'cash' when I talk to him. I may
eventually have all the basement drains replaced with PVC (which should
resist my crappy well water better), but right now only looking for a
good workmanlike spot repair, so I can get furnace room dried out and
start scraping up the filth. At least I don't have to pay golden time
for the work- stuff like this is why I insisted on a house with 2
bathrooms, and the one in the addition feeds into septic line outside
the basement wall and five feet lower, so it is safe to use.

Any useful ideas or sympathy appreciated. Rest of line doesn't show any
rot, but previous owner cleaned and shellacked it 6-7 years ago. Light
tapping along bottom didn't produce any 'dead' sounds.
Your plumber will almost certainly replace it with plastic, and I
would not let him do it any other way.

I'd agree if he was replacing the entire line for me (and depending on
the quote, I may go ahead and spring for that), but how is he gonna to
tie back into the copper? I undertand how you link supply lines, by
soldering a threaded fitting on the end of the copper. But I have never
personally seen a copper to plastic waste line transition. I really
don't wanna open the wall and replace that vent stack right now,
especially since the sink drain ties into it halfway up the wall.

Other than places with bad water like this, I have no heartburn with
copper. It did last 50 years. And back home where they have decent
water, I know of many 60 year old plus installations in perfect shape.

--
aem sends...

SNIP

But I have
never personally seen a copper to plastic waste line transition.

Snip

Look here for some info
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...ll=1#post11142

On Feb 16, 4:41*am, aemeijers wrote:
On 2/15/2011 11:05 PM, wrote:





On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 22:55:49 -0500,
wrote:

Mother Nature is being sarcastic with me. I went into basement, looking
for leaks from post-blizzard thaw currently underway. Instead, I find
puddle in furnace room (full of nasty things I won't describe), and 2
rotted slits in the bottom center of soil line from toilet, one on
either side of the wye leading up to the flange. Slits are very
straight-edged, almost look like they were done with a router.

I don't have the tools or the time to try to fix this myself this week
month, and my sweating skills suck anyway. *Anybody wanna SWAG how much
a plumber is gonna charge me to replace 3-4 feet of copper? Bronze wye
under toilet, and another bronze wye under vent stack a foot away with a
cleanout (blocked by a framed wall) on the back side. Will they be able
to reuse these wyes? I figure it will be half a dozen joints overall
(unless they need to get into the vertical runs), a coupling and maybe
new wyes, and maybe even lifting the toilet and replacing the flange and
starting over. Open ceiling with decent access to the pipes.

To pacify plumber, I'm gonna give him my whole plumbing punch list (half
a dozen items, small to medium), and ask for an estimate for 'later'
work. I also plan to keep saying 'cash' when I talk to him. I may
eventually have all the basement drains replaced with PVC (which should
resist my crappy well water better), but right now only looking for a
good workmanlike *spot repair, so I can get furnace room dried out and
start scraping up the filth. At least I don't have to pay golden time
for the work- stuff like this is why I insisted on a house with 2
bathrooms, and the one in the addition feeds into septic line outside
the basement wall and five feet lower, so it is safe to use.

Any useful ideas or sympathy appreciated. Rest of line doesn't show any
rot, but previous owner cleaned and shellacked it 6-7 years ago. Light
tapping along bottom didn't produce any 'dead' sounds.
* Your plumber will almost certainly replace it with plastic, and I
would not let him do it any other way.

I'd agree if he was replacing the entire line for me (and depending on
the quote, I may go ahead and spring for that), but how is he gonna to
tie back into the copper? I undertand how you link supply lines, by
soldering a threaded fitting on the end of the copper. But I have never
personally seen a copper to plastic waste line transition. I really
don't wanna open the wall and replace that vent stack right now,
especially since the sink drain ties into it halfway up the wall.

Other than places with bad water like this, I have no heartburn with
copper. It did last 50 years. And back home where they have decent
water, I know of many 60 year old plus installations in perfect shape.

--
aem sends...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There are lots of connectors plastic/copper.
http://www.screwfix.com/cats/100985/...h-Fit-Fittings
I'm sure yo have them over there.

?
"aemeijers" wrote

I don't have the tools or the time to try to fix this myself this week
month, and my sweating skills suck anyway. Anybody wanna SWAG how much a
plumber is gonna charge me to replace 3-4 feet of copper? Bronze wye under
toilet, and another bronze wye under vent stack a foot away with a
cleanout (blocked by a framed wall) on the back side. Will they be able to
reuse these wyes?

I'd go with PVC. The cost of copper is very high and that alone can be a
couple hundred bucks. Sounds like a few hours at about$75/hour.

aemeijers wrote:

-snip-
I'd agree if he was replacing the entire line for me (and depending on
the quote, I may go ahead and spring for that), but how is he gonna to
tie back into the copper?

They make copper to PVC-- but I'd go with fernco fittings.

Jim

On Feb 15, 10:55*pm, aemeijers wrote:
Mother Nature is being sarcastic with me. I went into basement, looking
for leaks from post-blizzard thaw currently underway. Instead, I find
puddle in furnace room (full of nasty things I won't describe), and 2
rotted slits in the bottom center of soil line from toilet, one on
either side of the wye leading up to the flange. Slits are very
straight-edged, almost look like they were done with a router.

I don't have the tools or the time to try to fix this myself this week
month, and my sweating skills suck anyway. *Anybody wanna SWAG how much
a plumber is gonna charge me to replace 3-4 feet of copper? Bronze wye
under toilet, and another bronze wye under vent stack a foot away with a
cleanout (blocked by a framed wall) on the back side. Will they be able
to reuse these wyes? I figure it will be half a dozen joints overall
(unless they need to get into the vertical runs), a coupling and maybe
new wyes, and maybe even lifting the toilet and replacing the flange and
starting over. Open ceiling with decent access to the pipes.

To pacify plumber, I'm gonna give him my whole plumbing punch list (half
a dozen items, small to medium), and ask for an estimate for 'later'
work. I also plan to keep saying 'cash' when I talk to him. I may
eventually have all the basement drains replaced with PVC (which should
resist my crappy well water better), but right now only looking for a
good workmanlike *spot repair, so I can get furnace room dried out and
start scraping up the filth. At least I don't have to pay golden time
for the work- stuff like this is why I insisted on a house with 2
bathrooms, and the one in the addition feeds into septic line outside
the basement wall and five feet lower, so it is safe to use.

Any useful ideas or sympathy appreciated. Rest of line doesn't show any
rot, but previous owner cleaned and shellacked it 6-7 years ago. Light
tapping along bottom didn't produce any 'dead' sounds.

--
aem sends...

A couple of Ferncos and some glued together PVC and you should be able
to do this in a couple hours. As a bonus you'll probably make a few
bucks.

I scrapped some copper wire last week and got $1.10 a pound
unstripped. For clean copper you'll get more.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
?
"aemeijers" wrote

I don't have the tools or the time to try to fix this myself this
week month, and my sweating skills suck anyway. Anybody wanna SWAG
how much a plumber is gonna charge me to replace 3-4 feet of copper?
Bronze wye under toilet, and another bronze wye under vent stack a
foot away with a cleanout (blocked by a framed wall) on the back
side. Will they be able to reuse these wyes?

I'd go with PVC. The cost of copper is very high and that alone can
be a couple hundred bucks. Sounds like a few hours at about$75/hour.

I agree. And, to answer the question about connecting the copper to PVC,
Fernco-type fittings such as these are the easiest option:
http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexible-couplings .

On Feb 16, 8:56*am, "JamesT" wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
?
"aemeijers" wrote

I don't have the tools or the time to try to fix this myself this
week month, and my sweating skills suck anyway. *Anybody wanna SWAG
how much a plumber is gonna charge me to replace 3-4 feet of copper?
Bronze wye under toilet, and another bronze wye under vent stack a
foot away with a cleanout (blocked by a framed wall) on the back
side. Will they be able to reuse these wyes?

I'd go with PVC. *The cost of copper is very high and that alone can
be a couple hundred bucks. *Sounds like a few hours at about$75/hour.

I agree. *And, to answer the question about connecting the copper to PVC,
Fernco-type fittings such as these are the easiest option:http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexible-couplings.

Because I wanted a entire copper line replaced I had a plumber do it.
I was tired of piecing it every few years.

all replaced with PVC 700 bucks.

got 160 for copper scrap

had line replaced from attic to basement it was a nasty job even for
the plumber. drains much better, lines have better fall

aemeijers wrote:
Mother Nature is being sarcastic with me. I went into basement,
looking for leaks from post-blizzard thaw currently underway.
Instead, I find puddle in furnace room (full of nasty things I won't
describe), and 2 rotted slits in the bottom center of soil line from
toilet, one on either side of the wye leading up to the flange. Slits
are very straight-edged, almost look like they were done with a
router.
I don't have the tools or the time to try to fix this myself this week
month, and my sweating skills suck anyway.

If you need a quick TEMPORARY patch, get a roll of 2" wide plumbers tape, and
spiral wrap it around the pipe very carefully so it is smooth and tight.

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 23:41:56 -0500, aemeijers
wrote:

On 2/15/2011 11:05 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 22:55:49 -0500,
wrote:

Mother Nature is being sarcastic with me. I went into basement, looking
for leaks from post-blizzard thaw currently underway. Instead, I find
puddle in furnace room (full of nasty things I won't describe), and 2
rotted slits in the bottom center of soil line from toilet, one on
either side of the wye leading up to the flange. Slits are very
straight-edged, almost look like they were done with a router.

I don't have the tools or the time to try to fix this myself this week
month, and my sweating skills suck anyway. Anybody wanna SWAG how much
a plumber is gonna charge me to replace 3-4 feet of copper? Bronze wye
under toilet, and another bronze wye under vent stack a foot away with a
cleanout (blocked by a framed wall) on the back side. Will they be able
to reuse these wyes? I figure it will be half a dozen joints overall
(unless they need to get into the vertical runs), a coupling and maybe
new wyes, and maybe even lifting the toilet and replacing the flange and
starting over. Open ceiling with decent access to the pipes.

To pacify plumber, I'm gonna give him my whole plumbing punch list (half
a dozen items, small to medium), and ask for an estimate for 'later'
work. I also plan to keep saying 'cash' when I talk to him. I may
eventually have all the basement drains replaced with PVC (which should
resist my crappy well water better), but right now only looking for a
good workmanlike spot repair, so I can get furnace room dried out and
start scraping up the filth. At least I don't have to pay golden time
for the work- stuff like this is why I insisted on a house with 2
bathrooms, and the one in the addition feeds into septic line outside
the basement wall and five feet lower, so it is safe to use.

Any useful ideas or sympathy appreciated. Rest of line doesn't show any
rot, but previous owner cleaned and shellacked it 6-7 years ago. Light
tapping along bottom didn't produce any 'dead' sounds.
Your plumber will almost certainly replace it with plastic, and I
would not let him do it any other way.

I'd agree if he was replacing the entire line for me (and depending on
the quote, I may go ahead and spring for that), but how is he gonna to
tie back into the copper? I undertand how you link supply lines, by
soldering a threaded fitting on the end of the copper. But I have never
personally seen a copper to plastic waste line transition. I really
don't wanna open the wall and replace that vent stack right now,
especially since the sink drain ties into it halfway up the wall.

Other than places with bad water like this, I have no heartburn with
copper. It did last 50 years. And back home where they have decent
water, I know of many 60 year old plus installations in perfect shape.
It's called an "MJ" - a "Mechanical Joint" - and it is a heavy guage
rubber connector with a corrugated metal expansion sleave that is
clamped to both the copper and the plastic. They work a treet
transitioning to and from Cast Iron piping too.
Just make sure you get the right one for the transition you are doing.

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 07:50:17 -0500, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

aemeijers wrote:

-snip-
I'd agree if he was replacing the entire line for me (and depending on
the quote, I may go ahead and spring for that), but how is he gonna to
tie back into the copper?

They make copper to PVC-- but I'd go with fernco fittings.

Jim
Fernco or "MJ". Actually Fernco makes MJ couplings as well as
flexible couplings - they are better for heavy suspended horizontal
pipes because the are made to be a "mechanical joint" instead of a
"flexible joint"

On Feb 16, 1:26*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
aemeijers wrote:
Mother Nature is being sarcastic with me. I went into basement,
looking for leaks from post-blizzard thaw currently underway.
Instead, I find puddle in furnace room (full of nasty things I won't
describe), and 2 rotted slits in the bottom center of soil line from
toilet, one on either side of the wye leading up to the flange. Slits
are very straight-edged, almost look like they were done with a
router.
I don't have the tools or the time to try to fix this myself this week
month, and my sweating skills suck anyway.

If you need a quick TEMPORARY patch, get a roll of 2" wide plumbers tape, and
spiral wrap it around the pipe very carefully so it is smooth and tight.

vinyl electric tape will work too

wrote:
On Feb 16, 1:26 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
aemeijers wrote:
Mother Nature is being sarcastic with me. I went into basement,
looking for leaks from post-blizzard thaw currently underway.
Instead, I find puddle in furnace room (full of nasty things I won't
describe), and 2 rotted slits in the bottom center of soil line from
toilet, one on either side of the wye leading up to the flange.
Slits are very straight-edged, almost look like they were done with
a router.
I don't have the tools or the time to try to fix this myself this
week month, and my sweating skills suck anyway.

If you need a quick TEMPORARY patch, get a roll of 2" wide plumbers
tape, and spiral wrap it around the pipe very carefully so it is
smooth and tight.

vinyl electric tape will work too

The plumbers stuff is significantly thicker, and the width helps.

On 2/16/2011 7:50 AM, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
wrote:

-snip-
I'd agree if he was replacing the entire line for me (and depending on
the quote, I may go ahead and spring for that), but how is he gonna to
tie back into the copper?

They make copper to PVC-- but I'd go with fernco fittings.

Jim

Well, instead of coming to patch the rotted section, the guy just came
to do a site survey. His recommended approach is to replace entire run
with PVC, from bottom of vent stack to where it goes into the cast iron
monster that leads out to septic tank. He said he COULD just patch in
the leaky part and link it up with fermcos, but that I'd be calling him
back in a year to change the next section, because entire run was thin
on the bottom. (and previous owner did burnish and shellac them for
some reason...) This includes new flange and feeder from toilet, and new
trap and feeder from bathtub, and new standpipe for washer and other
nuisance basement drains. Says he only works time and materials on jobs
like this, but swagged it at 1-1.5k$

I'm choking a little on the price, but at 12-16 hours x75 per, plus
materials, it adds up about right. He knew all the right words, and
SEEMED honest. And looking at resale 5 years from now, I'd rather have
pipes that didn't look cobbled together for buyer's inspector. Would I
be insane to lay out that much? Next available install window is
Tues/Weds of next week. He taped over the rot holes with good old 3m
electrical, and said it would hold tell then, and bathroom was safe to
use. I have the second bath, so I'm tempted to tough it out and just
work out of the second bath- cleaning the splattered furnace room is
gonna take a solid day, once it dries out. 5 pounds of kitty litter in
place now, and dehumidifier is running. I need to let the main tub dry
out several days to touch up a little of the caulking anyway.

I did NOT need this, this month. I have enough backed-up half-done
projects stacked up as it is...:^(

He did say one thing that seemed a little implausible, that code no
longer allowed copper waste lines. Anybody know if that is anywhere near
true? This is SW MI, so I'm sure they follow national model. As I've
previously noted, in Indiana we routinely got 60+ years out of copper,
but apparently water up here is a little different?

I do thank y'all for giving me a place to vent and whine about this...

--
aem sends...

?
"aemeijers" wrote

I'm choking a little on the price, but at 12-16 hours x75 per, plus
materials, it adds up about right. He knew all the right words, and SEEMED
honest. And looking at resale 5 years from now, I'd rather have pipes
that didn't look cobbled together for buyer's inspector. Would I be insane
to lay out that much?


Long term, it is probably the best method. If the rest of the pipe is thin,
it will be section by section and total cost even more.

On Feb 16, 10:25*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
?
"aemeijers" wrote



I'm choking a little on the price, but at 12-16 hours x75 per, plus
materials, it adds up about right. He knew all the right words, and SEEMED
honest. And looking at resale 5 years from now, I'd rather have pipes
that didn't look cobbled together for buyer's inspector. Would I be insane
to lay out that much?

Long term, it is probably the best method. *If the rest of the pipe is thin,
it will be section by section and total cost even more.

get a second estimate at least but it sounds reasonable. Like me your
better off to replace the entire run

aemeijers wrote:
-snip-
nuisance basement drains. Says he only works time and materials on jobs
like this, but swagged it at 1-1.5k$

I'm choking a little on the price, but at 12-16 hours x75 per, plus
materials, it adds up about right. He knew all the right words, and
SEEMED honest. And looking at resale 5 years from now, I'd rather have
pipes that didn't look cobbled together for buyer's inspector. Would I
be insane to lay out that much? Next available install window is
Tues/Weds of next week.
-snip-

$1500 for time, materials *and peace of mind*. And done next week!

-snip-
I did NOT need this, this month. I have enough backed-up half-done
projects stacked up as it is...:^(

I paid someone for a job last summer. The first time I've hired
anyone to do something around the house since 1984.

It felt weird. But good weird. 4 guys came in and did in 4-5 hours
what I would have poked around at for a month. They did as good a
job as I would have. I handed them a check and it was over.

And I got back to doing things I enjoyed more.

If you *can*- pay the man & move on.

He did say one thing that seemed a little implausible, that code no
longer allowed copper waste lines. Anybody know if that is anywhere near
true? This is SW MI, so I'm sure they follow national model. As I've
previously noted, in Indiana we routinely got 60+ years out of copper,
but apparently water up here is a little different?

I do thank y'all for giving me a place to vent and whine about this...

It is a welcome relief from solving the world's political problems.

Jim

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 21:49:43 -0500, aemeijers
wrote:

On 2/16/2011 7:50 AM, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
wrote:

-snip-
I'd agree if he was replacing the entire line for me (and depending on
the quote, I may go ahead and spring for that), but how is he gonna to
tie back into the copper?

They make copper to PVC-- but I'd go with fernco fittings.

Jim

Well, instead of coming to patch the rotted section, the guy just came
to do a site survey. His recommended approach is to replace entire run
with PVC, from bottom of vent stack to where it goes into the cast iron
monster that leads out to septic tank. He said he COULD just patch in
the leaky part and link it up with fermcos, but that I'd be calling him
back in a year to change the next section, because entire run was thin
on the bottom. (and previous owner did burnish and shellac them for
some reason...) This includes new flange and feeder from toilet, and new
trap and feeder from bathtub, and new standpipe for washer and other
nuisance basement drains. Says he only works time and materials on jobs
like this, but swagged it at 1-1.5k$

I'm choking a little on the price, but at 12-16 hours x75 per, plus
materials, it adds up about right. He knew all the right words, and
SEEMED honest. And looking at resale 5 years from now, I'd rather have
pipes that didn't look cobbled together for buyer's inspector. Would I
be insane to lay out that much? Next available install window is
Tues/Weds of next week. He taped over the rot holes with good old 3m
electrical, and said it would hold tell then, and bathroom was safe to
use. I have the second bath, so I'm tempted to tough it out and just
work out of the second bath- cleaning the splattered furnace room is
gonna take a solid day, once it dries out. 5 pounds of kitty litter in
place now, and dehumidifier is running. I need to let the main tub dry
out several days to touch up a little of the caulking anyway.

I did NOT need this, this month. I have enough backed-up half-done
projects stacked up as it is...:^(

He did say one thing that seemed a little implausible, that code no
longer allowed copper waste lines. Anybody know if that is anywhere near
true? This is SW MI, so I'm sure they follow national model. As I've
previously noted, in Indiana we routinely got 60+ years out of copper,
but apparently water up here is a little different?

I do thank y'all for giving me a place to vent and whine about this...
Don't know about code but I have not seen copper soil pipe here in
Ontario in over 30 years.

On Feb 17, 6:34*pm, aemeijers wrote:
On 2/17/2011 5:57 PM, RogerT wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 17 Feb 2011 16:58:47 -0500,
(snip)

On the other hand, if the OP can afford it, and the plumber is ready to come
and do the work, getting it all done at once would be nice. *I just wanted
to point out an alternative if money is a problem right now.

Yeah, at the moment I can afford it. I just got the estimates for what
my retirement will be if I walk out in July when I am eligible, and if I
do, I won't feel nearly so well off then. Not whining, because I know
people raise families on what my retirement income would be, but it
definitely would be a learning curve while I changed my buying habits
and lifestyle. Of course, with all the un- or under-employed relatives I
have, I may need to keep setting my alarm clock awhile.

--
aem sends...

better to pay to have it done now while you can better afford it than
wait till later when your retired and dont have the bucks.

messing with the old lines may create new hassles.......

better to do the job right, do it once, then relax.

doing a half way job to save money will only drive up the entire jobs
cost

On Feb 17, 10:46*pm, " wrote:
On Feb 17, 6:34*pm, aemeijers wrote:





On 2/17/2011 5:57 PM, RogerT wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 17 Feb 2011 16:58:47 -0500,
(snip)

On the other hand, if the OP can afford it, and the plumber is ready to come
and do the work, getting it all done at once would be nice. *I just wanted
to point out an alternative if money is a problem right now.

Yeah, at the moment I can afford it. I just got the estimates for what
my retirement will be if I walk out in July when I am eligible, and if I
do, I won't feel nearly so well off then. Not whining, because I know
people raise families on what my retirement income would be, but it
definitely would be a learning curve while I changed my buying habits
and lifestyle. Of course, with all the un- or under-employed relatives I
have, I may need to keep setting my alarm clock awhile.

--
aem sends...

better to pay to have it done now while you can better afford it than
wait till later when your retired and dont have the bucks.

messing with the old lines may create new hassles.......

better to do the job right, do it once, then relax.

doing a half way job to save money will only drive up the entire jobs
cost- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I had a vetical line rot out directly below the tub drain, it was
copper..... it brought down the cieling in the kitchen

so much for only long horizontal runs are a issue....

I was able to make a good quick TEMPORARY repair to my 3 inch copper waste line from the toilet lead bend using a small piece or rubber cut from an old tire inner tube and two stainless steel hose clamps.

In my case, I had a drip from the bottom of the copper pipe adjacent to the toilet lead bend solder joint. I scraped it lightly with a screwdriver to reveal what appeared to be a tiny slot at the bottom of the pipe (leaked a lot more afterward). Naturally, the pipe was installed with NO pitch to adequately empty the pipe after each use. I don't yet know how far along the pipe additional corrosion exists, if any, but I am determined to wait until next spring before effecting a permanent repair.

Another good tip for working with old waste lines: Don't bite your fingernails.