Have a question. Have a bungalo built back in about 67. doors are
the hollow core type, and i'm replacing with solid clear pine.
problem is, one door which i thought was warped, is not warped, but
rather the strike plate side of the door case is out about 1/4" in
4' (checked with my 4' level).

Any thoughts on how to compensate this, as the new pine doors won't
have the bit of flex the hollow core do in order to latch the door..

from the inswing side, the bottom of the wall is in about 3/4-1/2"

On Jan 31, 9:54*am, Picasso wrote:
Have a question. *Have a bungalo built back in about 67. *doors are
the hollow core type, and i'm replacing with solid clear pine.
problem is, one door which i thought was warped, is not warped, but
rather the strike plate side of the door case is out about 1/4" in
4' (checked with my 4' level).

Any thoughts on how to compensate this, as the new pine doors won't
have the bit of flex the hollow core do in order to latch the door..

from the inswing side, the bottom of the wall is in about 3/4-1/2"

remove the strike plate, close the door and reinstall the strike plate

Picasso wrote:
Have a question. Have a bungalo built back in about 67. doors are
the hollow core type, and i'm replacing with solid clear pine.
problem is, one door which i thought was warped, is not warped, but
rather the strike plate side of the door case is out about 1/4" in
4' (checked with my 4' level).

Any thoughts on how to compensate this, as the new pine doors won't
have the bit of flex the hollow core do in order to latch the door..

from the inswing side, the bottom of the wall is in about 3/4-1/2"

Other than the other suggestion to simply mount the catch where it would
have to be, you have to make adjustments to get the hinge mounts
coplanar w/ the closing side or adjust the jamb stop on the closing side
to be coplanar w/ the hinges.

If, when mounted, the door swings normally and doesn't either close or
open on its own, best bet is to remove the stop and either remount it as
needed to the door.

Of course, ideally one would remount the full jamb to get it coplanar
and adjust the width to compensate or the wall, but that's more effort.

I'm assuming from the age the door casing/frames are built up of stock
not prehung units. If they are prehung, your choices are more limited
since the jamb is probably not re-positionable. At that point I'd look
at rehanging the door and compensate as needed.

--

"Picasso" wrote in message
...
Have a question. Have a bungalo built back in about 67. doors are
the hollow core type, and i'm replacing with solid clear pine.
problem is, one door which i thought was warped, is not warped, but
rather the strike plate side of the door case is out about 1/4" in
4' (checked with my 4' level).

Any thoughts on how to compensate this, as the new pine doors won't
have the bit of flex the hollow core do in order to latch the door..

from the inswing side, the bottom of the wall is in about 3/4-1/2"

Had a similar problem with a bathroom door and discovered that the jamb was
not plumb, being out about 1/4". I cut two tapered pieces of wood and glued
them to the jamb after the casing was removed. With a bit of sanding and
Bondo filler, I got the edge straight and plumb and filled in the hinge
mortise that was out of position, recut the hinge mortises then installed
the door. After adjusting the strike and reinstalling the stops and casing,
the door works perfectly. I did also add some drywall compound to build it
up around the area that had wood added as I was also painting the room.

With your door out up to 3/4", you may want to strip off 3 to 3 feet of
drywall and shim the wall plumb on the hinge side and then make adjustments
to the jamb to level the door.

dpb wrote:
....

Of course, ideally one would remount the full jamb to get it coplanar
and adjust the width to compensate or the wall, but that's more effort.

I'm assuming from the age the door casing/frames are built up of stock
not prehung units. If they are prehung, your choices are more limited
since the jamb is probably not re-positionable. At that point I'd look
at rehanging the door and compensate as needed.
....

Oh, BTW, by coincidence the last issue of FHB has article on adjusting
prehung units; includes example for non-coplanar walls as well...

--

On Mon, 31 Jan 2011 04:54:56 -0800 (PST), Picasso
wrote:

Have a question. Have a bungalo built back in about 67. doors are
the hollow core type, and i'm replacing with solid clear pine.
problem is, one door which i thought was warped, is not warped, but
rather the strike plate side of the door case is out about 1/4" in
4' (checked with my 4' level).

Any thoughts on how to compensate this, as the new pine doors won't
have the bit of flex the hollow core do in order to latch the door..

Keep the current door. Do you really have to replace them all?
Paint it.

from the inswing side, the bottom of the wall is in about 3/4-1/2"

"Picasso" wrote in message
...
Have a question. Have a bungalo built back in about 67. doors are
the hollow core type, and i'm replacing with solid clear pine.
problem is, one door which i thought was warped, is not warped, but
rather the strike plate side of the door case is out about 1/4" in
4' (checked with my 4' level).

Any thoughts on how to compensate this, as the new pine doors won't
have the bit of flex the hollow core do in order to latch the door..

from the inswing side, the bottom of the wall is in about 3/4-1/2"


Here is how I would do it, but that doesn't mean you have to...........

Take the casing off the door. Saw through the nails holding the shims and
door into the jamb. Plumb door, and reinstall shims and retaining nails.
You can even leave it a tiny bit out of plumb for aesthetics if the reveal
is going to be too great at any point. Set the reveal where the thinnest
part is to the top of the door, and you may even get a self closing door out
of the arrangement. Furr out the door on all sides to make the casing look
as good as possible. It will still always be a little out of kilter, but
1/4" you can live with. At least the door will swing and close properly.
Like I said, that's what I'd do. Your mileage may vary.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Learn how to care for a friend.
Download the book.
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On Jan 31, 12:54*pm, Picasso wrote:
Have a question. *Have a bungalo built back in about 67. *doors are
the hollow core type, and i'm replacing with solid clear pine.
problem is, one door which i thought was warped, is not warped, but
rather the strike plate side of the door case is out about 1/4" in
4' (checked with my 4' level).

Any thoughts on how to compensate this, as the new pine doors won't
have the bit of flex the hollow core do in order to latch the door..

from the inswing side, the bottom of the wall is in about 3/4-1/2"

It depends on the construction. If the frame is a solid piece of wood
with a machined rebate, you can carefully mark the wood and cut away
cut away a "tapered" piece with a chisel until the door meet
properly. Sand down after with belt sander.
If there is an applied piece of wood on to a plain frame, you can
prise this away, sand down the frame and renail it on in an appropiate
place.. If this has been glued as well as nailed, you will have to
chisel it off, sand down and replace.
Also, the top of the frame may also have to be done to meet up with
the two sides, (Depending on which way the defect runs.)
If the door is fairly flush with the wall and would look strange with
this job, you will have to remove the frame and refix/replace.
Sometimes it looks better if a hinge is moved a bit and the rebate is
chiseled a bit, the alteration is not so apparent as it is spread over
both sides.

On 1/31/2011 8:51 AM, jim wrote:
On Jan 31, 9:54 am, wrote:
Have a question. Have a bungalo built back in about 67. doors are
the hollow core type, and i'm replacing with solid clear pine.
problem is, one door which i thought was warped, is not warped, but
rather the strike plate side of the door case is out about 1/4" in
4' (checked with my 4' level).

Any thoughts on how to compensate this, as the new pine doors won't
have the bit of flex the hollow core do in order to latch the door..

from the inswing side, the bottom of the wall is in about 3/4-1/2"

remove the strike plate, close the door and reinstall the strike plate

Or fix it the right way by de-installing the old prehung door back to
the rough opening, fix the wall as needed, and rehang the door and frame
properly with enough shims and screws/nails. If it is a split-jamb
prehung (very popular back in the day), odds are the halves of the jamb
have just pulled apart.

--
aem sends...

"Picasso" wrote in message
...
Have a question. Have a bungalo built back in about 67. doors are
the hollow core type, and i'm replacing with solid clear pine.
problem is, one door which i thought was warped, is not warped, but
rather the strike plate side of the door case is out about 1/4" in
4' (checked with my 4' level).

Any thoughts on how to compensate this, as the new pine doors won't
have the bit of flex the hollow core do in order to latch the door..

from the inswing side, the bottom of the wall is in about 3/4-1/2"

Locate the strike plate as needed. Mortise as needed. Fill any boo boos
with Bondo and touch up the paint.

Do a lot of checking. I assume you will find that the walls on
each side of the door are not coplanar and that the wall itself is
slightly out of plumb. Each side of the jamb may be out of plumb
in opposite directions. I assume that your casing fits the
drywall reasonably well.

Lay a scrap of 2x4 on the floor against the base mold. Swat
firmly with a heavy sledge hammer to move the bottom of the wall
slightly. Hit the other side the opposite direction. Make sure
you remove any pictures hanging on the walls before you begin.
You may find a very few firm blows will make the jamb line up.
You can do some very minor, non-destructive adjusting of the
casing the same way. I would sure take this approach before some
of the others indicated. You can always rip out and reinstall if
my suggestion doesn't work.

I've been a carpenter for over 50 years. Don't tear stuff up
until you have to.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"Picasso" wrote in message
...
Have a question. Have a bungalo built back in about 67. doors
are
the hollow core type, and i'm replacing with solid clear pine.
problem is, one door which i thought was warped, is not warped,
but
rather the strike plate side of the door case is out about 1/4"
in
4' (checked with my 4' level).

Any thoughts on how to compensate this, as the new pine doors
won't
have the bit of flex the hollow core do in order to latch the
door..

from the inswing side, the bottom of the wall is in about
3/4-1/2"