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#41
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Patching vs New "Sheet Rock"
"MiamiCuse" wrote in message ... "Colbyt" wrote in message m... "MiamiCuse" wrote in message ... "benick" wrote in message . .. I do believe him, of course it is easier and cheaper to have a fresh canvas to hang new sheetrock. However, I have to factor in the cost of demolition and disposal, as well as resetting depth of electrical boxes and recessed lights that will now protrude outside of the new 1/2" sheetrock, as well as window sills and doors that would be impacted by this. It seems to trade one headache with another. Cost and time aside, the new sheetrock will look better, but the exterior walls will be thinner, and less sound proofing. You are thinking "inside the box". I have demoed many a plaster wall and gone back with drywall. One need only fur out the studs or joists to achieve the proper finished height. You can buy 4x8 sheets of 1/4, 3/16, 3/8, 7/16 or 5/8 plywood or osb and run them through a table saw to create a furring strip of the proper height. This is just no big deal. They install really fast using a nail gun as they only need to be tacked into place. The 1-5/8 drywall screw will go all the way through to the stud behind. The cost of the wood is far less than moving all the boxes and modifying the jambs. -- Colbyt Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com Thanks. My plastered ceiling was already furred out with 3/4" strips, the then "three ply plaster" was nailed/stapled to them. So in order to match I need to either add a fur on top of a fur or remove the old fur and put in a deeper fur right? http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg If I do install new fur under the original fur it's best to have it done perpendicular to them? Which would make them run in the same direction as the joists? Based on the photo you posted I would just add another layer to the existing strips. When the drywall is installed be sure to use screws long enough to completely penetrate both layers. BTW I had to make some for a small project I have going on. I needed them 3/8 thick. One sheet of cdx plywood yielded 30 1.5" wide strips. Material only cost equal 45 cents each. It took me about 45 minutes to rip those working by myself. Colbyt |
#42
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Patching vs New "Sheet Rock"
Oren wrote in news:f2clg6tns658dsqpnrtt8l00jlpa28l13g@
4ax.com: On Wed, 15 Dec 2010 22:51:12 -0500, "benick" wrote: Nobody has used nails to install sheetrock since the invention of the screwgun...LOL...And you still get pops sometimes...Things STILL move... When in my teens we hung with "blue nails" and used a lath hatchet with the blade on it. At the end of the day, our lips were blue from the nails held in our mouth. Spit a nail out, tap and sink it. You get fast at it G. And those nails were the sharpest nails I've ever used! I mean if you put your hand in a bunch of them and pulled it out the hand would look magnetic to a bystander...until they realized it was the points stuck in the skin. |
#43
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Patching vs New "Sheet Rock"
On Sun, 19 Dec 2010 03:00:53 GMT, Red Green
wrote: Oren wrote in news:f2clg6tns658dsqpnrtt8l00jlpa28l13g@ 4ax.com: On Wed, 15 Dec 2010 22:51:12 -0500, "benick" wrote: Nobody has used nails to install sheetrock since the invention of the screwgun...LOL...And you still get pops sometimes...Things STILL move... When in my teens we hung with "blue nails" and used a lath hatchet with the blade on it. At the end of the day, our lips were blue from the nails held in our mouth. Spit a nail out, tap and sink it. You get fast at it G. And those nails were the sharpest nails I've ever used! I mean if you put your hand in a bunch of them and pulled it out the hand would look magnetic to a bystander...until they realized it was the points stuck in the skin. Even the razor blade on the hatchet would cut you bad. Not this brand, but very much like the hatchet I used. Mine had wood handles. http://warehousetoolsale.com/_store/...?prodID=E3%2DL Yes the nails are sharp... |
#44
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Patching vs New "Sheet Rock"
"Oren" wrote in message
... On Wed, 15 Dec 2010 22:51:12 -0500, "benick" wrote: Nobody has used nails to install sheetrock since the invention of the screwgun...LOL...And you still get pops sometimes...Things STILL move... When in my teens we hung with "blue nails" and used a lath hatchet with the blade on it. At the end of the day, our lips were blue from the nails held in our mouth. Spit a nail out, tap and sink it. You get fast at it G. I hate to say it but I'm that old as well...LOL... |
#45
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Patching vs New "Sheet Rock"
"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
... "Colbyt" wrote in message m... "MiamiCuse" wrote in message ... "benick" wrote in message . .. I do believe him, of course it is easier and cheaper to have a fresh canvas to hang new sheetrock. However, I have to factor in the cost of demolition and disposal, as well as resetting depth of electrical boxes and recessed lights that will now protrude outside of the new 1/2" sheetrock, as well as window sills and doors that would be impacted by this. It seems to trade one headache with another. Cost and time aside, the new sheetrock will look better, but the exterior walls will be thinner, and less sound proofing. You are thinking "inside the box". I have demoed many a plaster wall and gone back with drywall. One need only fur out the studs or joists to achieve the proper finished height. You can buy 4x8 sheets of 1/4, 3/16, 3/8, 7/16 or 5/8 plywood or osb and run them through a table saw to create a furring strip of the proper height. This is just no big deal. They install really fast using a nail gun as they only need to be tacked into place. The 1-5/8 drywall screw will go all the way through to the stud behind. The cost of the wood is far less than moving all the boxes and modifying the jambs. -- Colbyt Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com Thanks. My plastered ceiling was already furred out with 3/4" strips, the then "three ply plaster" was nailed/stapled to them. So in order to match I need to either add a fur on top of a fur or remove the old fur and put in a deeper fur right? http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg If I do install new fur under the original fur it's best to have it done perpendicular to them? Which would make them run in the same direction as the joists? Just rip all the old crap out and sheetrock it..In the time you spent talking about it you could be putting up new drywall... |
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