"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
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"Colbyt" wrote in message
m...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"benick" wrote in message
. ..
I do believe him, of course it is easier and cheaper to have a fresh
canvas to hang new sheetrock. However, I have to factor in the cost
of demolition and disposal, as well as resetting depth of electrical
boxes and recessed lights that will now protrude outside of the new
1/2" sheetrock, as well as window sills and doors that would be
impacted by this. It seems to trade one headache with another. Cost
and time aside, the new sheetrock will look better, but the exterior
walls will be thinner, and less sound proofing.


You are thinking "inside the box".

I have demoed many a plaster wall and gone back with drywall. One need
only fur out the studs or joists to achieve the proper finished height.
You can buy 4x8 sheets of 1/4, 3/16, 3/8, 7/16 or 5/8 plywood or osb and
run them through a table saw to create a furring strip of the proper
height. This is just no big deal. They install really fast using a nail
gun as they only need to be tacked into place. The 1-5/8 drywall screw
will go all the way through to the stud behind.

The cost of the wood is far less than moving all the boxes and modifying
the jambs.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

Thanks. My plastered ceiling was already furred out with 3/4" strips, the
then "three ply plaster" was nailed/stapled to them. So in order to match
I need to either add a fur on top of a fur or remove the old fur and put
in a deeper fur right?

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

If I do install new fur under the original fur it's best to have it done
perpendicular to them? Which would make them run in the same direction as
the joists?


Just rip all the old crap out and sheetrock it..In the time you spent
talking about it you could be putting up new drywall...