I have a number of individual hot/cold faucets (commercial) that swing
around when used. The lead nut is corroded to the faucets in most
instances. There is no room to put a saw blade to them, even if I take the
sink off the wall. We are considering epoxying the faucets to the sink to
prevent the frequent floods. Will epoxy stick to the porcelain finish?

Mike D.

On Nov 17, 8:13*am, Michael Dobony wrote:
I have a number of individual hot/cold faucets (commercial) that swing
around when used. The lead nut is corroded to the faucets in most
instances. There is no room to put a saw blade to them, even if I take the
sink off the wall. We are considering epoxying the faucets to the sink to
prevent the frequent floods. Will epoxy stick to the porcelain finish?

Mike D.

http://www.azpartsmaster.com/Product...__PAS7010.aspx

On Nov 17, 10:13*am, Michael Dobony wrote:

snip

We are considering epoxying the faucets to the sink to
prevent the frequent floods. Will epoxy stick to the porcelain finish?

Yes. Be sure to clean off all the crud first. Then give it a solvent
cleaning for organic residue. Acetone is a frequently recommended
solvent for epoxy jobs.

Joe

On 11/17/2010 8:13 AM Michael Dobony spake thus:

I have a number of individual hot/cold faucets (commercial) that swing
around when used. The lead nut is corroded to the faucets in most
instances. There is no room to put a saw blade to them, even if I take the
sink off the wall. We are considering epoxying the faucets to the sink to
prevent the frequent floods. Will epoxy stick to the porcelain finish?

My guess(R)(tm)* is no, at least not reliably.

Are you talking about the faucet *arms* that swing around? And what's
the "lead nut"--the one that secures the faucet arm to the faucet body?


* with apologies to Jeff Liebermann from sci.electronics.repair.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

On Nov 17, 2:09*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 11/17/2010 8:13 AM Michael Dobony spake thus:

I have a number of individual hot/cold faucets (commercial) that swing
around when used. The lead nut is corroded to the faucets in most
instances. There is no room to put a saw blade to them, even if I take the
sink off the wall. We are considering epoxying the faucets to the sink to
prevent the frequent floods. Will epoxy stick to the porcelain finish?

My guess(R)(tm)* is no, at least not reliably.

Are you talking about the faucet *arms* that swing around? And what's
the "lead nut"--the one that secures the faucet arm to the faucet body?

* with apologies to Jeff Liebermann from sci.electronics.repair.

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

he means the faucets are loose on the sink.

On 11/17/2010 11:49 AM jamesgangnc spake thus:

On Nov 17, 2:09 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 11/17/2010 8:13 AM Michael Dobony spake thus:

I have a number of individual hot/cold faucets (commercial) that
swing around when used. The lead nut is corroded to the faucets
in most instances. There is no room to put a saw blade to them,
even if I take the sink off the wall. We are considering epoxying
the faucets to the sink to prevent the frequent floods. Will
epoxy stick to the porcelain finish?

My guess(R)(tm)* is no, at least not reliably.

Are you talking about the faucet *arms* that swing around? And
what's the "lead nut"--the one that secures the faucet arm to the
faucet body?

* with apologies to Jeff Liebermann from sci.electronics.repair.

he means the faucets are loose on the sink.

OK, so the faucet *bodies* are loose and "swing around" (i.e., turn)
when one turns the faucet handle, is that right?

So how does this lead to "frequent floods"? Which makes it all the more
doubtful that epoxy is gonna fix this problem. (I'm still confused and
wouldn't mind seeing some pictures, or getting a better explanation from
the OP of what's what here.)


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 13:46:42 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 11/17/2010 11:49 AM jamesgangnc spake thus:

On Nov 17, 2:09 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 11/17/2010 8:13 AM Michael Dobony spake thus:

I have a number of individual hot/cold faucets (commercial) that
swing around when used. The lead nut is corroded to the faucets
in most instances. There is no room to put a saw blade to them,
even if I take the sink off the wall. We are considering epoxying
the faucets to the sink to prevent the frequent floods. Will
epoxy stick to the porcelain finish?

My guess(R)(tm)* is no, at least not reliably.

Are you talking about the faucet *arms* that swing around? And
what's the "lead nut"--the one that secures the faucet arm to the
faucet body?

* with apologies to Jeff Liebermann from sci.electronics.repair.

he means the faucets are loose on the sink.

OK, so the faucet *bodies* are loose and "swing around" (i.e., turn)
when one turns the faucet handle, is that right?


Correct.

So how does this lead to "frequent floods"? Which makes it all the more
doubtful that epoxy is gonna fix this problem. (I'm still confused and
wouldn't mind seeing some pictures, or getting a better explanation from
the OP of what's what here.)

Kids turn the faucet almost off and spin the faucet so that the spicate is
aimed at the sink ledge instead of in the bowl, and it flows onto the
floor.

The lead nut is the nut that holds the faucet to the sink, single hole.

We are hoping some epoxy will lock the faucet in place so that the water
will only flow into the sink bowl instead of on the side and onto the
floor.

On 11/17/2010 2:53 PM Michael Dobony spake thus:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 13:46:42 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:

So how does this lead to "frequent floods"? Which makes it all the more
doubtful that epoxy is gonna fix this problem. (I'm still confused and
wouldn't mind seeing some pictures, or getting a better explanation from
the OP of what's what here.)

Kids turn the faucet almost off and spin the faucet so that the spicate is
aimed at the sink ledge instead of in the bowl, and it flows onto the
floor.

The lead nut is the nut that holds the faucet to the sink, single hole.

We are hoping some epoxy will lock the faucet in place so that the water
will only flow into the sink bowl instead of on the side and onto the
floor.

OK, gotcha. No, epoxy ain't going to work here. Just too much force and
too problematic a gluing surface.

How hard would it be to just replace the faucets altogether? That sounds
like what's needed here.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 16:41:24 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 11/17/2010 2:53 PM Michael Dobony spake thus:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 13:46:42 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:

So how does this lead to "frequent floods"? Which makes it all the more
doubtful that epoxy is gonna fix this problem. (I'm still confused and
wouldn't mind seeing some pictures, or getting a better explanation from
the OP of what's what here.)

Kids turn the faucet almost off and spin the faucet so that the spicate is
aimed at the sink ledge instead of in the bowl, and it flows onto the
floor.

The lead nut is the nut that holds the faucet to the sink, single hole.

We are hoping some epoxy will lock the faucet in place so that the water
will only flow into the sink bowl instead of on the side and onto the
floor.

OK, gotcha. No, epoxy ain't going to work here. Just too much force and
too problematic a gluing surface.

How hard would it be to just replace the faucets altogether? That sounds
like what's needed here.
If it's like the megabuck faucets in the kitchen at the office, you
don't want (or need) to replace them. They really need the nut
tightened up, and if that's not possible a bead of good urethane caulk
will hold it in place, particularly on a solid surface counter top.
If it is on a chipboard or mdf based formica top, all bets are off.

And I wouldn't necessarily rule out an epoxy solution either, but it
would need to be one of those epoxy putties that can be used in a wet
location and I'd put a couple of screws or something in from the
bottom of the counter for the epoxy to "bite" to.

On 11/17/2010 5:04 PM spake thus:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 16:41:24 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 11/17/2010 2:53 PM Michael Dobony spake thus:

Kids turn the faucet almost off and spin the faucet so that the
spicate is aimed at the sink ledge instead of in the bowl, and it
flows onto the floor.

The lead nut is the nut that holds the faucet to the sink, single
hole.

We are hoping some epoxy will lock the faucet in place so that
the water will only flow into the sink bowl instead of on the
side and onto the floor.

OK, gotcha. No, epoxy ain't going to work here. Just too much force
and too problematic a gluing surface.

How hard would it be to just replace the faucets altogether? That
sounds like what's needed here.

If it's like the megabuck faucets in the kitchen at the office, you
don't want (or need) to replace them. They really need the nut
tightened up, and if that's not possible a bead of good urethane
caulk will hold it in place, particularly on a solid surface counter
top. If it is on a chipboard or mdf based formica top, all bets are
off.

And I wouldn't necessarily rule out an epoxy solution either, but it
would need to be one of those epoxy putties that can be used in a wet
location and I'd put a couple of screws or something in from the
bottom of the counter for the epoxy to "bite" to.

Re-read the original message. The faucets are mounted on a porcelain
sink, not a countertop. They don't sound fancy at all; old, perhaps.
Sounds like replacement is the way to go.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 11/17/2010 5:04 PM spake thus:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 16:41:24 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 11/17/2010 2:53 PM Michael Dobony spake thus:

Kids turn the faucet almost off and spin the faucet so that the
spicate is aimed at the sink ledge instead of in the bowl, and it
flows onto the floor.

The lead nut is the nut that holds the faucet to the sink, single
hole.

We are hoping some epoxy will lock the faucet in place so that
the water will only flow into the sink bowl instead of on the
side and onto the floor.
OK, gotcha. No, epoxy ain't going to work here. Just too much force
and too problematic a gluing surface.

How hard would it be to just replace the faucets altogether? That
sounds like what's needed here.
If it's like the megabuck faucets in the kitchen at the office, you
don't want (or need) to replace them. They really need the nut
tightened up, and if that's not possible a bead of good urethane
caulk will hold it in place, particularly on a solid surface counter
top. If it is on a chipboard or mdf based formica top, all bets are
off.

And I wouldn't necessarily rule out an epoxy solution either, but it
would need to be one of those epoxy putties that can be used in a wet
location and I'd put a couple of screws or something in from the
bottom of the counter for the epoxy to "bite" to.

Re-read the original message. The faucets are mounted on a porcelain
sink, not a countertop. They don't sound fancy at all; old, perhaps.
Sounds like replacement is the way to go.


Those sinks are quite raw on the bottom side,
and if you can get the epoxy in that location, and
then tighten the nut, filling the slack space around
the faucets thread, i would expect things to stay in place.
In fact, I think you would have to smash the sink
to remove the faucets.

On 11/17/2010 5:47 PM Sjouke Burry spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 11/17/2010 5:04 PM spake thus:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 16:41:24 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 11/17/2010 2:53 PM Michael Dobony spake thus:

Kids turn the faucet almost off and spin the faucet so that
the spicate is aimed at the sink ledge instead of in the
bowl, and it flows onto the floor.

The lead nut is the nut that holds the faucet to the sink,
single hole.

We are hoping some epoxy will lock the faucet in place so
that the water will only flow into the sink bowl instead of
on the side and onto the floor.
OK, gotcha. No, epoxy ain't going to work here. Just too much
force and too problematic a gluing surface.

How hard would it be to just replace the faucets altogether?
That sounds like what's needed here.
If it's like the megabuck faucets in the kitchen at the office,
you don't want (or need) to replace them. They really need the
nut tightened up, and if that's not possible a bead of good
urethane caulk will hold it in place, particularly on a solid
surface counter top. If it is on a chipboard or mdf based formica
top, all bets are off.

And I wouldn't necessarily rule out an epoxy solution either, but
it would need to be one of those epoxy putties that can be used
in a wet location and I'd put a couple of screws or something in
from the bottom of the counter for the epoxy to "bite" to.

Re-read the original message. The faucets are mounted on a porcelain
sink, not a countertop. They don't sound fancy at all; old, perhaps.
Sounds like replacement is the way to go.

Those sinks are quite raw on the bottom side,
and if you can get the epoxy in that location, and
then tighten the nut, filling the slack space around
the faucets thread, i would expect things to stay in place.
In fact, I think you would have to smash the sink
to remove the faucets.

You need to re-read the original message too; the nuts are frozen and
can't be tightened or removed.

Next!


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

David Nebenzahl wrote in news:4ce48f98$0$2545
:



You need to re-read the original message too; the nuts are frozen and
can't be tightened or removed.

Next!





A nut-splitter was suggested at one point. Those work quite well.

Alternatively, you can grind down the nut with a Dremel. You'd thin the
available side right down to the threads, which should make it let go of
the stud.

--
Tegger

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 02:47:36 +0100, Sjouke Burry
wrote:

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 11/17/2010 5:04 PM spake thus:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 16:41:24 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 11/17/2010 2:53 PM Michael Dobony spake thus:

Kids turn the faucet almost off and spin the faucet so that the
spicate is aimed at the sink ledge instead of in the bowl, and it
flows onto the floor.

The lead nut is the nut that holds the faucet to the sink, single
hole.

We are hoping some epoxy will lock the faucet in place so that
the water will only flow into the sink bowl instead of on the
side and onto the floor.
OK, gotcha. No, epoxy ain't going to work here. Just too much force
and too problematic a gluing surface.

How hard would it be to just replace the faucets altogether? That
sounds like what's needed here.
If it's like the megabuck faucets in the kitchen at the office, you
don't want (or need) to replace them. They really need the nut
tightened up, and if that's not possible a bead of good urethane
caulk will hold it in place, particularly on a solid surface counter
top. If it is on a chipboard or mdf based formica top, all bets are
off.

And I wouldn't necessarily rule out an epoxy solution either, but it
would need to be one of those epoxy putties that can be used in a wet
location and I'd put a couple of screws or something in from the
bottom of the counter for the epoxy to "bite" to.

Re-read the original message. The faucets are mounted on a porcelain
sink, not a countertop. They don't sound fancy at all; old, perhaps.
Sounds like replacement is the way to go.


Those sinks are quite raw on the bottom side,
and if you can get the epoxy in that location, and
then tighten the nut, filling the slack space around
the faucets thread, i would expect things to stay in place.
In fact, I think you would have to smash the sink
to remove the faucets.

Rereading the original post:

I have a number of individual hot/cold faucets (commercial) that swing
around when used. The lead nut is corroded to the faucets in most
instances. There is no room to put a saw blade to them, even if I take
the
sink off the wall. We are considering epoxying the faucets to the sink
to
prevent the frequent floods. Will epoxy stick to the porcelain finish?


OK.Perhaps I misunderstood when he said individual faucets I thought
he meant individual TAPS and a separate individual spout. He did say
"commercial" and the only individual tap commercial faucets I've seen
where the tap could be turned loose in the sink are pretty high end
units,(The Moen units I'm thinking of retail for something like $285
Canadian) The gooseneck can be turned from sink to sink, and if loose
can go beyond and drip on the counter or sink ledge, and the taps,
connected to the spout by flex hoses, can turn individually when you
try to tighten them (shut them off)

If on the other hand they are the old crappy hot and cold water taps,
each with it's own spout, they are GENERALLY solidly attached to rigid
coper tubing or iron pipe, and it's pretty hard to turn them in the
sink.

Perhaps they are connected using flex hoses??

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 03:00:40 +0000 (UTC), Tegger
wrote:

David Nebenzahl wrote in news:4ce48f98$0$2545
:



You need to re-read the original message too; the nuts are frozen and
can't be tightened or removed.

Next!





A nut-splitter was suggested at one point. Those work quite well.

Alternatively, you can grind down the nut with a Dremel. You'd thin the
available side right down to the threads, which should make it let go of
the stud.
Or you could just clean it up and use the "american bodger's best
friend" - J-B weld. under the sink, of course

On 11/17/2010 7:28 PM spake thus:

OK.Perhaps I misunderstood when he said individual faucets I thought
he meant individual TAPS and a separate individual spout. He did say
"commercial" and the only individual tap commercial faucets I've seen
where the tap could be turned loose in the sink are pretty high end
units,(The Moen units I'm thinking of retail for something like $285
Canadian) The gooseneck can be turned from sink to sink, and if loose
can go beyond and drip on the counter or sink ledge, and the taps,
connected to the spout by flex hoses, can turn individually when you
try to tighten them (shut them off)

If on the other hand they are the old crappy hot and cold water taps,
each with it's own spout, they are GENERALLY solidly attached to rigid
coper tubing or iron pipe, and it's pretty hard to turn them in the
sink.

Perhaps they are connected using flex hoses??

We need pictures!


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 20:57:16 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 11/17/2010 7:28 PM spake thus:

OK.Perhaps I misunderstood when he said individual faucets I thought
he meant individual TAPS and a separate individual spout. He did say
"commercial" and the only individual tap commercial faucets I've seen
where the tap could be turned loose in the sink are pretty high end
units,(The Moen units I'm thinking of retail for something like $285
Canadian) The gooseneck can be turned from sink to sink, and if loose
can go beyond and drip on the counter or sink ledge, and the taps,
connected to the spout by flex hoses, can turn individually when you
try to tighten them (shut them off)

If on the other hand they are the old crappy hot and cold water taps,
each with it's own spout, they are GENERALLY solidly attached to rigid
coper tubing or iron pipe, and it's pretty hard to turn them in the
sink.

Perhaps they are connected using flex hoses??

We need pictures!

The OP needs a plumber.

--Vic

In article ,
Vic Smith wrote:


The OP needs a plumber.

--Vic

Even though this is a DIY group, I agree in this case. Something, which
OP cannot describe well, is stuck, and something else is loose, and his
kids are careless. Sounds like too big of a job for epoxy. Besides,
there is no such thing as "can't be removed" when you have the right
tools and experience.

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 16:41:24 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 11/17/2010 2:53 PM Michael Dobony spake thus:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 13:46:42 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:

So how does this lead to "frequent floods"? Which makes it all the more
doubtful that epoxy is gonna fix this problem. (I'm still confused and
wouldn't mind seeing some pictures, or getting a better explanation from
the OP of what's what here.)

Kids turn the faucet almost off and spin the faucet so that the spicate is
aimed at the sink ledge instead of in the bowl, and it flows onto the
floor.

The lead nut is the nut that holds the faucet to the sink, single hole.

We are hoping some epoxy will lock the faucet in place so that the water
will only flow into the sink bowl instead of on the side and onto the
floor.

OK, gotcha. No, epoxy ain't going to work here. Just too much force and
too problematic a gluing surface.

How hard would it be to just replace the faucets altogether? That sounds
like what's needed here.

Replace faucets and sinks. Like I said, no room to get a saw blade on the
nuts to cut them off.

On Nov 18, 9:07*am, Michael Dobony wrote:
On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 16:41:24 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 11/17/2010 2:53 PM Michael Dobony spake thus:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 13:46:42 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:

So how does this lead to "frequent floods"? Which makes it all the more
doubtful that epoxy is gonna fix this problem. (I'm still confused and
wouldn't mind seeing some pictures, or getting a better explanation from
the OP of what's what here.)

Kids turn the faucet almost off and spin the faucet so that the spicate is
aimed at the sink ledge instead of in the bowl, and it flows onto the
floor.

The lead nut is the nut that holds the faucet to the sink, single hole..

We are hoping some epoxy will lock the faucet in place so that the water
will only flow into the sink bowl instead of on the side and onto the
floor.

OK, gotcha. No, epoxy ain't going to work here. Just too much force and
too problematic a gluing surface.

How hard would it be to just replace the faucets altogether? That sounds
like what's needed here.

Replace faucets and sinks. Like I said, no room to get a saw blade on the
nuts to cut them off.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I've yet to see a sink that had old faucets you didn't care about
destroying and could not get the faucets off one way or another. Some
pics would be helpful.

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 08:07:31 -0600, Michael Dobony
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 16:41:24 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 11/17/2010 2:53 PM Michael Dobony spake thus:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 13:46:42 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:

So how does this lead to "frequent floods"? Which makes it all the more
doubtful that epoxy is gonna fix this problem. (I'm still confused and
wouldn't mind seeing some pictures, or getting a better explanation from
the OP of what's what here.)

Kids turn the faucet almost off and spin the faucet so that the spicate is
aimed at the sink ledge instead of in the bowl, and it flows onto the
floor.

The lead nut is the nut that holds the faucet to the sink, single hole.

We are hoping some epoxy will lock the faucet in place so that the water
will only flow into the sink bowl instead of on the side and onto the
floor.

OK, gotcha. No, epoxy ain't going to work here. Just too much force and
too problematic a gluing surface.

How hard would it be to just replace the faucets altogether? That sounds
like what's needed here.

Replace faucets and sinks. Like I said, no room to get a saw blade on the
nuts to cut them off.

Totally ridiculous to say you can't get a faucet off a sink.
Somebody got those nuts on.
Ever hear of a basin wrench?
Besides, you said they were lead nuts.
Doubt it - probably brass.
If they were lead you could torch and melt them out.
Here's what you can do.
Shoot some liquid wrench or similar up there between the nut and sink
bottom.
Get a basin wrench on the nut and tighten it up.
If you can't turn it with basin wrench alone, put an 18" pipe wrench
on the basin wrench to assist.
If it's still frozen, get a hacksaw blade or moto tool flex extension
up there and cut it off.
Then you have to disconnect the feed line, find a new nut, clean the
faucet shank threads to accept a new nut, and reconnect the feed line.
That's assuming you re-use the old faucet.
Most faucets should have gasketing/sealer on both sides of the sink
hole, certainly on the top side.
If you can't do this yourself, get a plumber of somebody who can do
it, otherwise you're spinning your wheels.

--Vic

On Nov 18, 9:07*am, Michael Dobony wrote:
On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 16:41:24 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 11/17/2010 2:53 PM Michael Dobony spake thus:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 13:46:42 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:

So how does this lead to "frequent floods"? Which makes it all the more
doubtful that epoxy is gonna fix this problem. (I'm still confused and
wouldn't mind seeing some pictures, or getting a better explanation from
the OP of what's what here.)

Kids turn the faucet almost off and spin the faucet so that the spicate is
aimed at the sink ledge instead of in the bowl, and it flows onto the
floor.

The lead nut is the nut that holds the faucet to the sink, single hole..

We are hoping some epoxy will lock the faucet in place so that the water
will only flow into the sink bowl instead of on the side and onto the
floor.

OK, gotcha. No, epoxy ain't going to work here. Just too much force and
too problematic a gluing surface.

How hard would it be to just replace the faucets altogether? That sounds
like what's needed here.

Replace faucets and sinks. Like I said, no room to get a saw blade on the
nuts to cut them off.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I understand your problem. Epxoy will be a temporary solution. If
you can get some of it down between the bottom of utthe sink and the
nut that night help. But since you can't loosen or tighten the nuts
the chances of you getting much penetration between the faucet and the
sink are low. Epoxy gobbed on the outside will be very temporary.
The leverage and poor gluing surface are working against you.

There are tools for attempting to get the nut off. As others have
mentioned a dremel would also work. You might go around every day for
a few weeks and spray the nut area with wd40 or whatever your favorite
spray is.

Those old porcelain cast iron sinks are pretty tough, I'd' even try a
small chisel on your nut if nothing else worked.

In article ,
Vic Smith wrote:

Besides, you said they were lead nuts.

I don't think the OP meant LED nuts, I think he meant LEED nuts.
Homographs. But little of what he said made sense to me. Perhaps I'm as
lazy with my comprehension efforts as he is with his nut issue.

On 11/18/2010 7:19 AM jamesgangnc spake thus:

Those old porcelain cast iron sinks are pretty tough, I'd' even try a
small chisel on your nut if nothing else worked.

Meaning a small COLD chisel, not a wood chisel.

But I agree: there's always a way to get things like this off. May take
a lot of patience and a coordinated attack plan, but you can somehow
un-freeze, crack, split, cut or chisel the nut off.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 08:49:54 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 08:07:31 -0600, Michael Dobony
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 16:41:24 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 11/17/2010 2:53 PM Michael Dobony spake thus:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 13:46:42 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:

So how does this lead to "frequent floods"? Which makes it all the more
doubtful that epoxy is gonna fix this problem. (I'm still confused and
wouldn't mind seeing some pictures, or getting a better explanation from
the OP of what's what here.)

Kids turn the faucet almost off and spin the faucet so that the spicate is
aimed at the sink ledge instead of in the bowl, and it flows onto the
floor.

The lead nut is the nut that holds the faucet to the sink, single hole.

We are hoping some epoxy will lock the faucet in place so that the water
will only flow into the sink bowl instead of on the side and onto the
floor.

OK, gotcha. No, epoxy ain't going to work here. Just too much force and
too problematic a gluing surface.

How hard would it be to just replace the faucets altogether? That sounds
like what's needed here.

Replace faucets and sinks. Like I said, no room to get a saw blade on the
nuts to cut them off.

Totally ridiculous to say you can't get a faucet off a sink.
Somebody got those nuts on.
Ever hear of a basin wrench?

Yes, doesn't fit in the space available.

Besides, you said they were lead nuts.

I have an old one from another sink, it is lead.

Doubt it - probably brass.
If they were lead you could torch and melt them out.

And probably blow up the porcelain.

Here's what you can do.
Shoot some liquid wrench or similar up there between the nut and sink
bottom.

Been there, done that.

Get a basin wrench on the nut and tighten it up.

See above.

If you can't turn it with basin wrench alone, put an 18" pipe wrench
on the basin wrench to assist.
If it's still frozen, get a hacksaw blade or moto tool flex extension
up there and cut it off.

Moto will cost as much as a new sink.

Then you have to disconnect the feed line, find a new nut, clean the
faucet shank threads to accept a new nut, and reconnect the feed line.
That's assuming you re-use the old faucet.
Most faucets should have gasketing/sealer on both sides of the sink
hole, certainly on the top side.

Nope.

If you can't do this yourself, get a plumber of somebody who can do
it, otherwise you're spinning your wheels.

Cheaper to buy new, but we have a bunch that need work.

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 11/18/2010 7:19 AM jamesgangnc spake thus:

Those old porcelain cast iron sinks are pretty tough, I'd' even try a
small chisel on your nut if nothing else worked.

Meaning a small COLD chisel, not a wood chisel.


actually, if they are in fact lead, a sharp edge, or even a pencil soldering
iron, would cut through it pretty easily.

But I agree: there's always a way to get things like this off. May
take a lot of patience and a coordinated attack plan, but you can
somehow un-freeze, crack, split, cut or chisel the nut off.

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 15:33:04 -0700, "chaniarts"
wrote:

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 11/18/2010 7:19 AM jamesgangnc spake thus:

Those old porcelain cast iron sinks are pretty tough, I'd' even try a
small chisel on your nut if nothing else worked.

Meaning a small COLD chisel, not a wood chisel.


actually, if they are in fact lead, a sharp edge, or even a pencil soldering
iron, would cut through it pretty easily.

But I agree: there's always a way to get things like this off. May
take a lot of patience and a coordinated attack plan, but you can
somehow un-freeze, crack, split, cut or chisel the nut off.

I've never seen a LEAD nut - lots of Zinc nuts though.
You can be almost dead certain the nut holding the tap shank to the
sink is NOT lead.

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 14:50:23 -0600, Michael Dobony
wrote:
Moto will cost as much as a new sink.

I needed a grinding tool recently. I got one from Harbor Freight. I
think it was $12. Didn't have an extension, but I think they had that
too. Is it as good as a Dremel? Probably not by a long shot. But I
managed to get through 61 years without such a tool, so I figured
there's a good chance I'll never use it again. It got the job done
(grinding away half a dozen screws whose hex heads had rusted beyond
getting a wrench or even a vice grip on). If I'm real lucky, it'll sit
on my shelf for the next 40 years. More likely the next time it sees
the light of day will be as part of my estate sale.

Edward

Edward Reid wrote in
:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 14:50:23 -0600, Michael Dobony
wrote:
Moto will cost as much as a new sink.

I needed a grinding tool recently. I got one from Harbor Freight. I
think it was $12. Didn't have an extension, but I think they had that
too. Is it as good as a Dremel? Probably not by a long shot. But I
managed to get through 61 years without such a tool, so I figured
there's a good chance I'll never use it again. It got the job done
(grinding away half a dozen screws whose hex heads had rusted beyond
getting a wrench or even a vice grip on). If I'm real lucky, it'll sit
on my shelf for the next 40 years. More likely the next time it sees
the light of day will be as part of my estate sale.

Edward




[ Harbor Freight }

More likely the next time it sees
the light of day will be as part of my estate sale.

And after those 40 years there will be ooo's & ahhhhhh's with "My goodnes,
they just don't make 'em like that any more. Look! It's all plastic and
metal vs recycled leaves."

.. needed a grinding tool recently. I got one from Harbor Freight. I
think it was $12. Didn't have an extension, but I think they had that
too. Is it as good as a Dremel? Probably not by a long shot. But I
managed to get through 61 years without such a tool, so I figured
there's a good chance I'll never use it again. It got the job done
(grinding away half a dozen screws whose hex heads had rusted beyond
getting a wrench or even a vice grip on). If I'm real lucky, it'll sit
on my shelf for the next 40 years. More likely the next time it sees
the light of day will be as part of my estate sale.

Remind me to not attend your sale ;-)

In that category, mine will have the 30,000 RPM CRAFTSMAN/RotoZip and
plunge router/circle cutter kit,AND the CRAFTSMAN 30,000 1/4" "Rotary Die
Grinder" AND the standard 1/8" DREMEL rotary tool with the 80 accessory kit.
(Maybe I have too many tools ;-))

Some days I have a hard time deciding which one to use to cut off bolt
heads..



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On Sun, 21 Nov 2010 12:09:11 -0500, Edward Reid wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 14:50:23 -0600, Michael Dobony
wrote:
Moto will cost as much as a new sink.

I needed a grinding tool recently. I got one from Harbor Freight. I
think it was $12. Didn't have an extension, but I think they had that
too. Is it as good as a Dremel? Probably not by a long shot. But I
managed to get through 61 years without such a tool, so I figured
there's a good chance I'll never use it again. It got the job done
(grinding away half a dozen screws whose hex heads had rusted beyond
getting a wrench or even a vice grip on). If I'm real lucky, it'll sit
on my shelf for the next 40 years. More likely the next time it sees
the light of day will be as part of my estate sale.

Edward

Actually I now seem to recall that someone may have bought one for a
construction project in the north building, will ask around.

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 20:42:42 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 15:33:04 -0700, "chaniarts"
wrote:

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 11/18/2010 7:19 AM jamesgangnc spake thus:

Those old porcelain cast iron sinks are pretty tough, I'd' even try a
small chisel on your nut if nothing else worked.

Meaning a small COLD chisel, not a wood chisel.


actually, if they are in fact lead, a sharp edge, or even a pencil soldering
iron, would cut through it pretty easily.

But I agree: there's always a way to get things like this off. May
take a lot of patience and a coordinated attack plan, but you can
somehow un-freeze, crack, split, cut or chisel the nut off.

I've never seen a LEAD nut - lots of Zinc nuts though.
You can be almost dead certain the nut holding the tap shank to the
sink is NOT lead.

It is NOT zinc, but lead, or more precisely, a lead alloy (another one
pulled through the hole when the giant washer disintegrated). I ended up
getting a multitool, not for this job, but for an ongoing job of replacing
broken windows. The multitool is the only reasonable way to pull out the
old, hard caulking between the aluminum retainer and the glass in these old
1950's commercial windows. Replacing these windows is an time-consuming and
ongoing job. I have 3 critical windows right now to work on.