I recently installled some HALO H7ICT 6" hi-hats in a kitchen reno,
and now I need to buy the baffles.The bulbs will be 65w BR-30. I
tested out a 310 baffle, and although it looked nice, you can still
see some of interior metal of the hi-hat if you look up. Not that
anyone would look up and notice, but I was wondering if this was
normal.
They also have a 312 baffle which they claim has a smaller opening. I
have not seen those yet, but I was wondering what does everyone else
use?

I have also used the 310WATH baffles ( air tite) in another job,
which look great, but this is not an air-tite application, not to
mention they are a lot more expensive.

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
I recently installled some HALO H7ICT 6" hi-hats in a kitchen reno,
and now I need to buy the baffles.The bulbs will be 65w BR-30. I
tested out a 310 baffle, and although it looked nice, you can still
see some of interior metal of the hi-hat if you look up. Not that
anyone would look up and notice, but I was wondering if this was
normal.
They also have a 312 baffle which they claim has a smaller opening. I
have not seen those yet, but I was wondering what does everyone else
use?

I have also used the 310WATH baffles ( air tite) in another job,
which look great, but this is not an air-tite application, not to
mention they are a lot more expensive.

Halo, for some strange reason doesn't make a standard 5" frame kit, they
make one, but it's totally different than their R20 or R40 kits. Since
you're using a 7" kit, I would recommend using a 65 watt BR40 and a 410W
trim. There is also a BR40 halogen lamp on the market with is considerably
brighter than the standard BR40 bulb. IMO, the next best choice would be to
use the 30WAT airtite trim

On Oct 25, 5:30*pm, "RBM" wrote:
"Mikepier" wrote in message

...

I recently installled some HALO H7ICT 6" hi-hats in a kitchen reno,
and now I need to buy the baffles.The bulbs will be 65w BR-30. I
tested out a 310 baffle, and although it looked nice, you can still
see some of interior metal of the hi-hat if you look up. Not that
anyone would look up and notice, but I was wondering if this was
normal.
They also have a 312 baffle which they claim *has a smaller opening. I
have not seen those yet, but I was wondering what does everyone else
use?

I have also used the 310WATH baffles ( air tite) *in another job,
which look great, but this is not an air-tite application, not to
mention they are a lot more expensive.

Halo, for some strange reason doesn't make a standard 5" frame kit, they
make one, but it's totally different than their R20 or R40 kits. Since
you're using a 7" kit, I would recommend using a 65 watt BR40 and a 410W
trim. There is also a BR40 halogen lamp on the market with is considerably
brighter than the standard BR40 bulb. IMO, the next best choice would be to
use the 30WAT airtite trim

For some strange reason, you can't use a 410 trim/R40 bulb with an IC
rated can, only non-IC rated. Probably because of the heat build up
around the insulation.

The 30WAT is about $5 more than the 310. Looks as if I'm going to have
to ante up.

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
On Oct 25, 5:30 pm, "RBM" wrote:
"Mikepier" wrote in message

...

I recently installled some HALO H7ICT 6" hi-hats in a kitchen reno,
and now I need to buy the baffles.The bulbs will be 65w BR-30. I
tested out a 310 baffle, and although it looked nice, you can still
see some of interior metal of the hi-hat if you look up. Not that
anyone would look up and notice, but I was wondering if this was
normal.
They also have a 312 baffle which they claim has a smaller opening. I
have not seen those yet, but I was wondering what does everyone else
use?

I have also used the 310WATH baffles ( air tite) in another job,
which look great, but this is not an air-tite application, not to
mention they are a lot more expensive.

Halo, for some strange reason doesn't make a standard 5" frame kit, they
make one, but it's totally different than their R20 or R40 kits. Since
you're using a 7" kit, I would recommend using a 65 watt BR40 and a 410W
trim. There is also a BR40 halogen lamp on the market with is considerably
brighter than the standard BR40 bulb. IMO, the next best choice would be
to
use the 30WAT airtite trim

For some strange reason, you can't use a 410 trim/R40 bulb with an IC
rated can, only non-IC rated. Probably because of the heat build up
around the insulation.

The 30WAT is about $5 more than the 310. Looks as if I'm going to have
to ante up.

You're right, I forgot what I was dealing with. I don't know why they do
that, seems to me there isn't any more heat from an R40, than an R30 of the
same wattage. It would be cheating, but you could break off the little
aluminum tab that prevents the socket assembly from going up, high enough to
fit an R40, and also exposes the side slots that the 410 springs clip into.
I've done it when I've used IC housings in non IC applications, works fine.

In your situation I would have used Lightolier 1000 series Lightnings.
They're IC rated and use a very nice, cheap, R30 white baffle, I believe the
model is 1078

On Oct 25, 10:11*am, Mikepier wrote:
I recently installled some HALO H7ICT 6" hi-hats in a kitchen reno,
and now I need to buy the baffles.The bulbs will be 65w BR-30. I
tested out a 310 baffle, and although it looked nice, you can still
see some of interior metal of the hi-hat if you look up. Not that
anyone would look up and notice, but I was wondering if this was
normal.
They also have a 312 baffle which they claim *has a smaller opening. I
have not seen those yet, but I was wondering what does everyone else
use?

I have also used the 310WATH baffles ( air tite) *in another job,
which look great, but this is not an air-tite application, not to
mention they are a lot more expensive.

The Juno trims in Lowes are pretty expensive, huh? I just bought some
slightly inferior (but certainly good enough and look just as good)
equivalents from Menards for half the price. You sold on
incandescent? I just did a bedroom/closet/sitting area with a total
of 19 of those Juno's IC rated units, and put in 20A circuits to
handle the power usage. But then, I noticed a deal of boxes of 12
CFL's and thought I'd give them a try. Of course, they take about 2
minutes to reach full brightness, which is a bit of a pain. In a
kitchen you may only be going in for 15 seconds to get a beer from the
fridge, so could be even more annoying. I am thinking of mixing in a
few incandescents to mitigate the problem. When you do the math on
the total costs of incand vs CFL's, it's pretty compelling...