I recently painted a couple of casement windows by removing them and working
on them indoors. They were correctly primed and painted according to
instructions, except that due to time constraints, drying time was AT LEAST
5-6 times longer (after each coat) than recommended. In other words, just
right.

I did the same with the frames into which the windows were installed.
Weather was in the 70s and dry for 10 days straight, so there was plenty of
curing time between coats. All parts were dry when the windows were
reinstalled.

Even so, the first time I opened two of the windows after they'd been
installed & closed for a couple of days, the mating surfaces stuck badly,
damaging the paint in one small spot. Both primer & paint were top of the
line Sherwin-Williams stuff. Finish coat was a satin finish exterior latex.

On 2010-10-22, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

line Sherwin-Williams stuff. Finish coat was a satin finish exterior latex.

You should be asking Sherwin-Williams.

nb

On Fri, 22 Oct 2010 11:46:04 -0400, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:

I recently painted a couple of casement windows by removing them and working
on them indoors. They were correctly primed and painted according to
instructions, except that due to time constraints, drying time was AT LEAST
5-6 times longer (after each coat) than recommended. In other words, just
right.

I did the same with the frames into which the windows were installed.
Weather was in the 70s and dry for 10 days straight, so there was plenty of
curing time between coats. All parts were dry when the windows were
reinstalled.

Even so, the first time I opened two of the windows after they'd been
installed & closed for a couple of days, the mating surfaces stuck badly,
damaging the paint in one small spot. Both primer & paint were top of the
line Sherwin-Williams stuff. Finish coat was a satin finish exterior latex.


"One small spot" pretty much tells what happened.
That's where you said the damage was, so all the rest of the paint
dried fine.
You missed a bubble or run, and popped it when you put the windows
back in. Then it glued window to frame.
Only had to be on one surface.
Try to be more careful.
Attention to detail I think they call it.
Holidays are the other side of that.

--Vic

On Oct 22, 11:46*am, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:
Even so, the first time I opened two of the windows after they'd been
installed & closed for a couple of days, the mating surfaces stuck badly,
damaging the paint in one small spot.

Paint can take 30+ days to cure completely down to the base. The
pressure of the windows pushed the uncured paint to the surface.
Instant stiction.

On Oct 22, 10:46*am, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:
I recently painted a couple of casement windows by removing them and working
on them indoors. They were correctly primed and painted according to
instructions, except that due to time constraints, drying time was AT LEAST
5-6 times longer (after each coat) than recommended. In other words, just
right.

I did the same with the frames into which the windows were installed.
Weather was in the 70s and dry for 10 days straight, so there was plenty of
curing time between coats. All parts were dry when the windows were
reinstalled.

Even so, the first time I opened two of the windows after they'd been
installed & closed for a couple of days, the mating surfaces stuck badly,
damaging the paint in one small spot. *Both primer & paint were top of the
line Sherwin-Williams stuff. Finish coat was a satin finish exterior latex.

On Oct 22, 10:46*am, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:
I recently painted a couple of casement windows by removing them and working
on them indoors. They were correctly primed and painted according to
instructions, except that due to time constraints, drying time was AT LEAST
5-6 times longer (after each coat) than recommended. In other words, just
right.

I did the same with the frames into which the windows were installed.
Weather was in the 70s and dry for 10 days straight, so there was plenty of
curing time between coats. All parts were dry when the windows were
reinstalled.

Even so, the first time I opened two of the windows after they'd been
installed & closed for a couple of days, the mating surfaces stuck badly,
damaging the paint in one small spot. *Both primer & paint were top of the
line Sherwin-Williams stuff. Finish coat was a satin finish exterior latex.

On 10/22/2010 10:46 AM, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
I recently painted a couple of casement windows by removing them and working
on them indoors. They were correctly primed and painted according to
instructions, except that due to time constraints, drying time was AT LEAST
5-6 times longer (after each coat) than recommended. In other words, just
right.

I did the same with the frames into which the windows were installed.
Weather was in the 70s and dry for 10 days straight, so there was plenty of
curing time between coats. All parts were dry when the windows were
reinstalled.

Even so, the first time I opened two of the windows after they'd been
installed& closed for a couple of days, the mating surfaces stuck badly,
damaging the paint in one small spot. Both primer& paint were top of the
line Sherwin-Williams stuff. Finish coat was a satin finish exterior latex.



Did you consider putting some wax lubricant on the sliding surfaces?

TDD

On Oct 23, 2:01*am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
On 10/22/2010 10:46 AM, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

I recently painted a couple of casement windows by removing them and working
on them indoors. They were correctly primed and painted according to
instructions, except that due to time constraints, drying time was AT LEAST
5-6 times longer (after each coat) than recommended. In other words, just
right.

I did the same with the frames into which the windows were installed.
Weather was in the 70s and dry for 10 days straight, so there was plenty of
curing time between coats. All parts were dry when the windows were
reinstalled.

Even so, the first time I opened two of the windows after they'd been
installed& *closed for a couple of days, the mating surfaces stuck badly,
damaging the paint in one small spot. *Both primer& *paint were top of the
line Sherwin-Williams stuff. Finish coat was a satin finish exterior latex.

Did you consider putting some wax lubricant on the sliding surfaces?

That would make re-painting at a later date problematic. Avoid
silicone and avoid wax, or plan on disassembly and degreasing every
time you paint.

R

On 10/23/2010 7:29 AM, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 23, 2:01 am, The Daring
wrote:
On 10/22/2010 10:46 AM, JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

I recently painted a couple of casement windows by removing them and working
on them indoors. They were correctly primed and painted according to
instructions, except that due to time constraints, drying time was AT LEAST
5-6 times longer (after each coat) than recommended. In other words, just
right.

I did the same with the frames into which the windows were installed.
Weather was in the 70s and dry for 10 days straight, so there was plenty of
curing time between coats. All parts were dry when the windows were
reinstalled.

Even so, the first time I opened two of the windows after they'd been
installed& closed for a couple of days, the mating surfaces stuck badly,
damaging the paint in one small spot. Both primer& paint were top of the
line Sherwin-Williams stuff. Finish coat was a satin finish exterior latex.

Did you consider putting some wax lubricant on the sliding surfaces?

That would make re-painting at a later date problematic. Avoid
silicone and avoid wax, or plan on disassembly and degreasing every
time you paint.

R

I'm referring to a little saw wax not liquid wax. I don't think a touch
of wax from a wax stick will destroy a paint job or make it hard to
repaint at a later time.

TDD

On Oct 23, 11:46*pm, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
On 10/23/2010 7:29 AM, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 23, 2:01 am, The Daring wrote:

Did you consider putting some wax lubricant on the sliding surfaces?

That would make re-painting at a later date problematic. *Avoid
silicone and avoid wax, or plan on disassembly and degreasing every
time you paint.


I'm referring to a little saw wax not liquid wax. I don't think a touch
of wax from a wax stick will destroy a paint job or make it hard to
repaint at a later time.

No, not hard, but if someone doesn't know there's wax on a surface
they won't do anything to prevent the problem that will occur. Wax
interferes with the adhesion of any water-based coating. Silicone
interferes with water or oil based coatings. Wax is used in faux
finishing circles - in many circles - as a release agent. The wax
certainly will work to reduce stiction for sliding surfaces, and it's
not necessarily a big deal if the person who put the wax on is the
person who will be doing the subsequent painting. But very few
painters, pro or amateur, routinely dewax/degrease a surface,
particularly in this day of self-priming, sticks to gloss paint,
paints - and sanding doesn't remove all traces of wax. There will be
fish-eyes.

The OP said that he had casement windows, so there's really not a lot
of sliding going on. The problem is due to paint buildup. Over time,
paint build up will interfere with hinge and latch operations. The
best time to deal with potential paint buildup problems is before a
window is repainted. The operating parts should be checked for
clearance with a piece of paper. If the paper doesn't slide out
easily when the parts are closed, the window is too tight to repaint
without some sanding.

R

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in
:

I recently painted a couple of casement windows by removing them and
working on them indoors. They were correctly primed and painted
according to instructions, except that due to time constraints, drying
time was AT LEAST 5-6 times longer (after each coat) than recommended.
In other words, just right.

I did the same with the frames into which the windows were installed.
Weather was in the 70s and dry for 10 days straight, so there was
plenty of curing time between coats. All parts were dry when the
windows were reinstalled.

Even so, the first time I opened two of the windows after they'd been
installed & closed for a couple of days, the mating surfaces stuck
badly, damaging the paint in one small spot. Both primer & paint were
top of the line Sherwin-Williams stuff. Finish coat was a satin finish
exterior latex.



I've always figured latex paint takes a month to dry.

I did some metal garage doors this summer. Door sections have an overlap.
Left the overlaps separated and let dry for a day. Put petroleum jelly on
the joints. Worked out well.

Red Green wrote in
:

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in
:

I recently painted a couple of casement windows by removing them and
working on them indoors. They were correctly primed and painted
according to instructions, except that due to time constraints,
drying time was AT LEAST 5-6 times longer (after each coat) than
recommended. In other words, just right.

I did the same with the frames into which the windows were installed.
Weather was in the 70s and dry for 10 days straight, so there was
plenty of curing time between coats. All parts were dry when the
windows were reinstalled.

Even so, the first time I opened two of the windows after they'd been
installed & closed for a couple of days, the mating surfaces stuck
badly, damaging the paint in one small spot. Both primer & paint
were top of the line Sherwin-Williams stuff. Finish coat was a satin
finish exterior latex.



I've always figured latex paint takes a month to dry.

I did some metal garage doors this summer. Door sections have an
overlap. Left the overlaps separated and let dry for a day. Put
petroleum jelly on the joints. Worked out well.



p.s. Another thing I often use on a multitude of things I don't want to
stick is a piece of waxed paper. Clamping things that were glued is a
frequent flyer.