Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. Now it's on a 12V 2/6
amp charger. Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC source,
negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to crank the
engine.

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Thanks.

"* US *" Home@Home. wrote in message
...
Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. Now it's on a 12V 2/6
amp charger. Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC source,
negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to crank the
engine.

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Thanks.

First off allow that little charger overnight to do the job with the battery
removed from the tractor or the + terminal disconnected.

Yes you should always disconnect it while trying to start.

* US * wrote:
Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. Now it's on a 12V 2/6
amp charger. Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC source,
negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to crank the
engine.

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?


Leave it connected. The extra boost it provides may enable you to start your
machine before the battery is fully charged.

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:31:36 GMT, Home@Home. (* US *) wrote:

Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. Now it's on a 12V 2/6
amp charger. Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC source,
negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to crank the
engine.

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Thanks.

Look at the two answers above from HeyBub and Colbyt. This is a text
book example of why you don't ask an automotive related question in
this group. One would think with a name of alt.home.repai it would be
obvious but obviously not.

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:31:36 +0000, * US * wrote:

Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. Now it's on a 12V 2/6 amp
charger. Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC source,
negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to crank the
engine.

Why on earth would you do that?

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Doesn't hurt the charger to leave it on but by all means let it charge
for 24 hours. If the battery is viable good. If not it may start after 24
hours but not after it sits for 3 or 4 days. I just replaced the 300 CCA
battery on my Deere 155. Would crank fine unless it sat for 3 days.
The battery was 10 years old.

"* US *" Home@Home. wrote in message
...
Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. Now it's on a 12V 2/6
amp charger. Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC source,
negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to crank the
engine.

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Thanks.

Many of these trickle chargers are designed to be left connected to
batteries. It certainly won't hurt it. Every machine I have, has an onboard
trickle charger, this way if a machine is not used for months, the battery
doesn't die. They don't charge very rapidly, so it'll need a good 8 hrs of
more to fully charge it, if the battery is in good condition.

Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:31:36 GMT, Home@Home. (* US *) wrote:

Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. Now it's on a 12V 2/6
amp charger. Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC
source, negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to
crank the engine.

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Thanks.

Look at the two answers above from HeyBub and Colbyt. This is a text
book example of why you don't ask an automotive related question in
this group. One would think with a name of alt.home.repai it would be
obvious but obviously not.

Depends on whether alt.home.repair means "repairing THE home" or "repairing
AT home"

That said, where else would one go for advice on shearing sheep, folding
paper airplanes, or framing a marriage proposal (I like "Will you be my
first wife?")?

On Aug 14, 3:20*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
snip

leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Leave it connected. The extra boost it provides may enable you to start your
machine before the battery is fully charged.

Unless the charger is specifically designed to handle 'boost'
voltages, the current drawn by starting will ruin the diodes. For a
small trickle charger, the few amps provided over the battery capacity
would have no noticeable effect on starting results, so the sensible
thing is disconnect. You may also be surprised to find that
recommendation in your owners manual.

Joe.

* US * wrote:
Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. Now it's on a 12V 2/6
amp charger. Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC source,
negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to crank the
engine.

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Thanks.

Leave it charging 24 hours or it will never charge up the way you are
doing it.
Funny you should mention it, I just went to start my garden tractor that
I use only for snow blowing in the winter. The battery was too low to
start it. Was fine all winter, it's only a year old.
It's taking a long time to charge too, as if it has been down for some
time. I have a taper charger so I'll know when it's full up again when
it tapers down to zero. Right now it's drawing 2 amps. Started at 6
amps. If it don't taper down, time for a new one. (defective?)

--
LSMFT

I look outside this morning and everything was in 3D!

Joe wrote:
On Aug 14, 3:20 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
snip

leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Leave it connected. The extra boost it provides may enable you to start your
machine before the battery is fully charged.

Unless the charger is specifically designed to handle 'boost'
voltages, the current drawn by starting will ruin the diodes. For a
small trickle charger, the few amps provided over the battery capacity
would have no noticeable effect on starting results, so the sensible
thing is disconnect. You may also be surprised to find that
recommendation in your owners manual.

Joe.
Chuckle. Living alone, and for several years only had one car. Best
forty bucks I ever spent when living in the apartments was that Shumaker
(sp?) boost charger and long extension cord. Paid for itself the first
time I didn't have to call a tow truck. Haven't used it in years, now
that I park inside my own damn garage, and have 2 vastly more reliable
cars. But keeping it just in case.

And what's an owner's manual? One of them paper book things? They never
seem to be included at the auctions and yard sales....
--
aem sends...

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 17:43:56 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:


That said, where else would one go for advice on shearing sheep, folding
paper airplanes, or framing a marriage proposal (I like "Will you be my
first wife?")?

I knew a guy who would introduce his wife as "my first wife". They're
divorced now.

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:31:36 GMT, Home@Home. (* US *) wrote:

Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. Now it's on a 12V 2/6
amp charger. Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC source,
negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to crank the
engine.

A slow charge is best**. When I used my 1 amp charger on a full size
car battery, for a big car, it took 24 hours to charge from dead.
Since yours is 2 amp, I'd figure 12 hours, or less if the battery is
smaller. Maybe a little les yet since 24 might not have been needed.

If set on 6 amps, 4 hours of course.

**Although some fancy new ones say they charge 80% fast and then slow
down towards the end. I don't know about that.

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Now I use a 10 amp charger and I can often get by on ten minutes or
less before it will start**, and I don't disconnect it before trying.
But they aren't the original diodes, so I guess that doesn't help you.
I couldn't get those square, cracker-like selenium diodes anymore, so
I used a bunch of 2 amp tophat diodes in parallel***.

**I've disabled my lights-on buzzer switch for complicated reasons.

***The original story of the 10 amp charger is more intersting. 35
years ago, I found it with nothing nearby on the sidewalk in Queens.
Took it home and it woudln't work. Bad diodes. Looked all over NYC
for selenium diodes that could carry 10 amps. Didn't know why they
should be selenium, but that's what they used in the first place.

Coudn't find them, forgot out the thing for 5 years, and when I tried
again to fix it, it worked fine. I don't use it often but it worked
fine for 20 years. Then the diodes went bad again!! Go figure.


Thanks.

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:58:06 -0400, mm wrote:

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 17:43:56 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:


That said, where else would one go for advice on shearing sheep, folding
paper airplanes, or framing a marriage proposal (I like "Will you be my
first wife?")?

I knew a guy who would introduce his wife as "my first wife". They're
divorced now.

I used to work with a guy like that. ...except that he had a wife number two
between two instances of wife number one. A mid-life thing.

On Aug 14, 7:32*pm, mm wrote:
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:31:36 GMT, Home@Home. (* US *) wrote:

Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. *Now it's on a 12V 2/6
amp charger. *Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC source,
negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to crank the
engine.

A slow charge is best**. *When I used my 1 amp charger on a full size
car battery, for a big car, it took 24 hours to charge from dead.
Since yours is 2 amp, I'd figure 12 hours, or less if the battery is
smaller. *Maybe a little les yet since 24 might not have been needed.

If set on 6 amps, 4 hours of course.

**Although some fancy new ones say they charge 80% fast and then slow
down towards the end. I don't know about that.

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Now I use a 10 amp charger and I can often get by on ten minutes or
less before it will start**, and I don't disconnect it before trying.
But they aren't the original diodes, so I guess that doesn't help you.
I couldn't get those square, cracker-like selenium diodes anymore, so
I used a bunch of 2 amp tophat diodes in parallel***.

**I've disabled my lights-on buzzer switch for complicated reasons.

***The original story of the 10 amp charger is more intersting. *35
years ago, I found it with nothing nearby on the sidewalk in Queens.
Took it home and it woudln't work. *Bad diodes. *Looked all over NYC
for selenium diodes that could carry 10 amps. * Didn't know why they
should be selenium, but that's what they used in the first place.

Coudn't find them, forgot out the thing for 5 years, and when I tried
again to fix it, it worked fine. I don't use it often but it worked
fine for 20 years. Then the diodes went bad again!! *Go figure.



Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Selenium diodes were 1930's, 1940's, and very early 1950's, they were
used because there were no other diodes available that could take the
current thru them that the selenium diodes could take. Modern-day
diodes came along in the early 1950's just before the invention of the
transistor at Bell Laboratories revolutionized the world as we know it
today.

Arnie, start where it says START HERE. Quit when you get tired. :-)

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 18:48:01 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Aug 14, 7:32*pm, mm wrote:
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:31:36 GMT, Home@Home. (* US *) wrote:

Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. *Now it's on a 12V 2/6
amp charger. *Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC source,
negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to crank the
engine.

A slow charge is best**. *When I used my 1 amp charger on a full size
car battery, for a big car, it took 24 hours to charge from dead.
Since yours is 2 amp, I'd figure 12 hours, or less if the battery is
smaller. *Maybe a little les yet since 24 might not have been needed.

If set on 6 amps, 4 hours of course.

**Although some fancy new ones say they charge 80% fast and then slow
down towards the end. I don't know about that.

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Now I use a 10 amp charger and I can often get by on ten minutes or
less before it will start**, and I don't disconnect it before trying.
But they aren't the original diodes, so I guess that doesn't help you.
I couldn't get those square, cracker-like selenium diodes anymore, so
I used a bunch of 2 amp tophat diodes in parallel***.

**I've disabled my lights-on buzzer switch for complicated reasons.

START HERE

***The original story of the 10 amp charger is more intersting. *35
years ago, I found it with nothing nearby on the sidewalk in Queens.
Took it home and it woudln't work. *Bad diodes. *Looked all over NYC, including industrial listings,
for selenium diodes that could carry 10 amps. * Didn't know why they
should be selenium, but that's what they used in the first place.

Coudn't find them, forgot out the thing for 5 years, and when I tried
again to fix it, it worked fine. I don't use it often but it worked
fine for 20 years. Then the diodes went bad again!! *Go figure.



Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Selenium diodes were 1930's, 1940's, and very early 1950's, they were
used because there were no other diodes available that could take the
current thru them that the selenium diodes could take. Modern-day
diodes came along in the early 1950's just before the invention of the
transistor at Bell Laboratories revolutionized the world as we know it
today.

Thanks. Very interesting. No wonder I couldn't find them. I found
the charger between 1970 and 1978, and it's the kind that a gas
station would have had, with a heavy duty 6/off/12 volt switch, an
ammeter, long heavy leads with big alligator clips, extra-length
hoizontal legs to keep it from falling over, and a rounded comfortable
metal handle, so it could have been 20 years old when I found it.
That would make it about 55 years old now, all original except the
diodes and the wires to the alligator clips (which were cracking all
over the place and all the way to the copper when I replaced them 10
or 20 years ago.)


I got my one-amp charger from my cousin Morris, who gave me his '50
Oldmobile in 1965, when I was 18 and he was at least over 80 and not
going to drive anymore. At the same time he gave me the battery
charger. The car had a 6-volt battery but the charger would do either
6 or 12 volts. It looked like new but I'm sure he didn't buy it the
last year he had the car. It doesn't look older than 1955? because it
still has a modern look, with a glossy almost metallic paint finish on
five sides and a face plate that still looks modern also (not that I
know what face-plates looked like in the 50's. And a plastic slide
switch for 6 to 12 volts.


That charger also had selenium diode in a bridge arrangement and
though it failed too, I found a simllar replacement. The original
ones fit in the case of course, but the replacement which I got at a
surplus store in the 70's was about the size of two cigarrette packs
front to back, so it had to be mounted standing on the top of the
whole thing, making it look like some sort of robot head.

What's most interesting about it was that I had the car in Chicago for
one winter and it was very cold, so I ran an extension cord from the
pantry of the house we lived in to the sign at parking lot in the
back. I placed the charger in an empty space near the battery and ran
the cord out the grill. Every time I parked, I plugged the car in and
left it that way until I left again.

ONce it got caught in the radiator fan and the wires ripped out, but I
repaired that.

But the 6 volts didn't seem to do a good job of charging it so I put
it on 12 volts. It had a glass circuit breaker that looked like like
a little Xmas tree light (with no light). A little over a half-inch
long and less than a quarter inch in diameter. It would trip every
90 seconds and reset 30 seconds later. Since I went to school in
walking distance, the car was home more than 90% of the time, and the
circuit breaker reset every 2 minutes for the whole winter. 720 times
a a day for at least 90 days, at least 7000 times. But that part
still works fine.

The whole thing works fine, but I'm too impatient to use it for car
batteries now.

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 17:43:56 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:31:36 GMT, Home@Home. (* US *) wrote:

Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. Now it's on a 12V 2/6
amp charger. Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC
source, negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to
crank the engine.

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Thanks.

Look at the two answers above from HeyBub and Colbyt. This is a text
book example of why you don't ask an automotive related question in
this group. One would think with a name of alt.home.repai it would be
obvious but obviously not.

Depends on whether alt.home.repair means "repairing THE home" or "repairing
AT home"

That said, where else would one go for advice on shearing sheep, folding
paper airplanes, or framing a marriage proposal (I like "Will you be my
first wife?")?


I hope the following answers your questions:

This group name would imply "repairing THE home." If "repairing AT
home" was desired a fitting group, for this particular topic, would be
sci.electronics.repair

Where to go for advice on shearing sheep would certainly not be here
but alt.binaries.erotica.sheep or maybe alt.cloned-sheep.bah.bah.bah
might answer your questions. They may also answer questions you
didn't ask.

Folding paper airplanes could be intelligently discussed in
net.aviation.aerobatics.

Now framing a marriage proposal could be debated in several groups
such as alt.consultancy.marriage-help or maybe alt.marriage-minded.
But if bad information is taken (such as asking automotive advice in a
home repair forum) you could always get additional help in this group:
alt.support.divorce

I hope that answers your questions. If it doesn't I'm sure as hell
not going to sift through those groups again! :-)

I have a marine trolling battery, which sadly I trusted to a Harbor
Freight trickle charger. A couple months later, the battery was way
low of water, and filling wtih distilled didn't bring it back to life.
I credit the HF float charger (wall wart plug with a cord and couple
of clips) with killing my battery. I should not have left the charger
on.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RBM" wrote in message
...


Many of these trickle chargers are designed to be left connected to
batteries. It certainly won't hurt it. Every machine I have, has an
onboard
trickle charger, this way if a machine is not used for months, the
battery
doesn't die. They don't charge very rapidly, so it'll need a good 8
hrs of
more to fully charge it, if the battery is in good condition.

Starting batteries such as garden tractor batteries. If they are
deeply discharged, that may do enough damage that the battery won't
work again. The overnight charge is a good idea. But, it may very well
be time for a replacement battery.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"LSMFT"
wrote in message ...

Leave it charging 24 hours or it will never charge up the way you are
doing it.
Funny you should mention it, I just went to start my garden tractor
that
I use only for snow blowing in the winter. The battery was too low to
start it. Was fine all winter, it's only a year old.
It's taking a long time to charge too, as if it has been down for some
time. I have a taper charger so I'll know when it's full up again when
it tapers down to zero. Right now it's drawing 2 amps. Started at 6
amps. If it don't taper down, time for a new one. (defective?)

--
LSMFT

I look outside this morning and everything was in 3D!

I also find a car battery charger to be useful.

The "jumper packs" with the internal battery are useful, also. I've
got one in each vehicle, and have used them several times. I bought a
22 amp jumper pack from Harbor Freight, one time. Sixty bucks. It
didn't work the once I needed it. Took it back. Bought a 17 amp one
from NAPA auto supply. Hundred bucks, but at least it does the job.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"aemeijers" wrote in message
...

Chuckle. Living alone, and for several years only had one car. Best
forty bucks I ever spent when living in the apartments was that
Shumaker
(sp?) boost charger and long extension cord. Paid for itself the first
time I didn't have to call a tow truck. Haven't used it in years, now
that I park inside my own damn garage, and have 2 vastly more reliable
cars. But keeping it just in case.

And what's an owner's manual? One of them paper book things? They
never
seem to be included at the auctions and yard sales....
--
aem sends...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
I have a marine trolling battery, which sadly I trusted to a Harbor
Freight trickle charger. A couple months later, the battery was way
low of water, and filling wtih distilled didn't bring it back to life.
I credit the HF float charger (wall wart plug with a cord and couple
of clips) with killing my battery. I should not have left the charger
on.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"RBM" wrote in message
...


Many of these trickle chargers are designed to be left connected to
batteries. It certainly won't hurt it. Every machine I have, has an
onboard
trickle charger, this way if a machine is not used for months, the
battery
doesn't die. They don't charge very rapidly, so it'll need a good 8
hrs of
more to fully charge it, if the battery is in good condition.


Most of mine are Schumacher SE-1-12S 1.5 amp onboard chargers. They're made
to remain attached to the battery. You plug it in when the machine is going
to sit for a while, and it maintains a charge. They're automatic, so they
shut off when the battery is fully charged

Gordon Shumway wrote:

Depends on whether alt.home.repair means "repairing THE home" or
"repairing AT home"

That said, where else would one go for advice on shearing sheep,
folding paper airplanes, or framing a marriage proposal (I like
"Will you be my first wife?")?


I hope the following answers your questions:

This group name would imply "repairing THE home." If "repairing AT
home" was desired a fitting group, for this particular topic, would be
sci.electronics.repair

Where to go for advice on shearing sheep would certainly not be here
but alt.binaries.erotica.sheep or maybe alt.cloned-sheep.bah.bah.bah
might answer your questions. They may also answer questions you
didn't ask.

Folding paper airplanes could be intelligently discussed in
net.aviation.aerobatics.

Now framing a marriage proposal could be debated in several groups
such as alt.consultancy.marriage-help or maybe alt.marriage-minded.
But if bad information is taken (such as asking automotive advice in a
home repair forum) you could always get additional help in this group:
alt.support.divorce

I hope that answers your questions. If it doesn't I'm sure as hell
not going to sift through those groups again! :-)

Thanks for the pointers. Pity you are reluctant to do more research. I still
don't know where to turn for advice on:

* Best way to skin census takers (they're bugging me for a third visit!)
* Removing about 200 lbs of cosmoline from a surplus 81mm mortar
* Most attractive way to display my state's largest collection of squirrel
heads (and Texas is a BIG state)
* When I'm on a date, the approved method of handling a woman standing
outside the restaurant screaming "Fiona, you tart, you can't have Hubert!"
* How to make a paraffin dissecting tray - or equivalent - that will hold a
struggling kitten. I already tried nailing it to the chesterfield...

Oh well...

"Gordon Shumway" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:31:36 GMT, Home@Home. (* US *) wrote:

Did a stupid thing and ran down the battery. Now it's on a 12V 2/6
amp charger. Every two hrs., I remove the charger from the AC source,
negative ground clamp, and positive clamp and attempt to crank the
engine.

Is is necessary for safety purposes to disable the charger, or can I
leave it connected while testing to see if the engine cranks over?

Thanks.

Look at the two answers above from HeyBub and Colbyt. This is a text
book example of why you don't ask an automotive related question in
this group. One would think with a name of alt.home.repai it would be
obvious but obviously not.


While I have no desire to start a flame war, I do feel the need to point out
that some of us can read and do read the manuals that came with various
devices.

For that reason I will stand by the initial answer I posted to OP's
question. For you I suggest RTFM for charging instructions included with
most chargers and the warnings that are included in the better written
tractor manuals.

Colbyt

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 07:33:48 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Thanks for the pointers. Pity you are reluctant to do more research. I still
don't know where to turn for advice on:

* Best way to skin census takers (they're bugging me for a third visit!)
* Removing about 200 lbs of cosmoline from a surplus 81mm mortar
* Most attractive way to display my state's largest collection of squirrel
heads (and Texas is a BIG state)
* When I'm on a date, the approved method of handling a woman standing
outside the restaurant screaming "Fiona, you tart, you can't have Hubert!"
* How to make a paraffin dissecting tray - or equivalent - that will hold a
struggling kitten. I already tried nailing it to the chesterfield...

Oh well...

Nice try.

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 08:34:45 -0400, "Colbyt"
wrote:

While I have no desire to start a flame war, I do feel the need to point out
that some of us can read and do read the manuals that came with various
devices.

For that reason I will stand by the initial answer I posted to OP's
question. For you I suggest RTFM for charging instructions included with
most chargers and the warnings that are included in the better written
tractor manuals.

Colbyt

The point I was trying to make is that your answer "Yes you should
always disconnect it while trying to start" and Heybub's answer Leave
it connected. The extra boost it provides may enable you to start your
machine before the battery is fully charged" were diametrically
opposed. However, in this case either answer was acceptable.

As far as RTFM I fully agree and have recommended that solution to
many questions here. If that was the first thing subscribers here did
the number of posts would probably reduce by 75% or more.

Have a good day.

Gordon Shumway wrote:
(snip)
As far as RTFM I fully agree and have recommended that solution to
many questions here. If that was the first thing subscribers here did
the number of posts would probably reduce by 75% or more.

Have a good day.

RTFM only works if you HAVE the Fine Manual. For us 2nd or 3rd or Nth
owners of equipment, that is seldom the case. Not all manufacturers are
real good about putting them on their web sites, especially for older stuff.

--
aem sends...

Why would anyone want to read the furnished manual?

I sense the OP battery is damaged beyond repair, and he's wasting
time.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Colbyt" wrote in message
m...

For that reason I will stand by the initial answer I posted to OP's
question. For you I suggest RTFM for charging instructions included
with
most chargers and the warnings that are included in the better written
tractor manuals.

Colbyt

Yes, you are fortunate. Lets hope you get several more years of
service.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Van Chocstraw" wrote in message
...

I'm lucky, it came all the way up and started the tractor. Then I put
it
back on charge to top it off. Tapered of to half an amp trickle.

And, that should be better quality than my $10 HF plug into the wall
float over-charger.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RBM" wrote in message
...

Most of mine are Schumacher SE-1-12S 1.5 amp onboard chargers.
They're made
to remain attached to the battery. You plug it in when the machine is
going
to sit for a while, and it maintains a charge. They're automatic, so
they
shut off when the battery is fully charged

The answer to all of those is GI, backpack style flame thrower. Don't
try to use last year's napalm from the gascan in the garage. Mix new,
each spring.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...


Thanks for the pointers. Pity you are reluctant to do more research. I
still
don't know where to turn for advice on:

* Best way to skin census takers (they're bugging me for a third
visit!)
* Removing about 200 lbs of cosmoline from a surplus 81mm mortar
* Most attractive way to display my state's largest collection of
squirrel
heads (and Texas is a BIG state)
* When I'm on a date, the approved method of handling a woman standing
outside the restaurant screaming "Fiona, you tart, you can't have
Hubert!"
* How to make a paraffin dissecting tray - or equivalent - that will
hold a
struggling kitten. I already tried nailing it to the chesterfield...

Oh well...

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 19:05:21 -0400, LSMFT wrote:

I just went to start my garden tractor that
I use only for snow blowing in the winter.

Sometimes I've wondered about modifying my lawn tractor to attach a snow
blower - it's easy to pull the whole mower deck off, leaving a spare
shaft pulley on the engine that I could tap power from. The tires won't
have enough grip as they are to work in snow, but I bet I could rig up
some chains...

It's one of those backyard projects that's waiting for some inspiration
and a few useful parts to land in my lap :-)

The battery was too low to
start it. Was fine all winter, it's only a year old. It's taking a long
time to charge too, as if it has been down for some time.

I really hate small equipment batteries. I've given up on one for the
tractor - I just keep a truck battery in the shed and jump it from that.
It's only ever a pain in the butt if I stall it or let it run out of gas,
as then I have to go get the battery (or push the darn thing back to the
shed).

cheers

Jules

On Aug 15, 11:51*am, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 07:33:48 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Thanks for the pointers. Pity you are reluctant to do more research. I still
don't know where to turn for advice on:

* Best way to skin census takers (they're bugging me for a third visit!)

You live in a heavily Demonicratic area. They haven't bothered us
once. ...not so much as junk mail.

...

keith wrote:
On Aug 15, 11:51 am, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 07:33:48 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Thanks for the pointers. Pity you are reluctant to do more
research. I still don't know where to turn for advice on:

* Best way to skin census takers (they're bugging me for a third
visit!)

You live in a heavily Demonicratic area. They haven't bothered us
once. ...not so much as junk mail.


Uh, you're right. If they ever do contact me, I'm gonna tell them that no
one lives here and I'm merely a burglar.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I have a marine trolling battery, which sadly I trusted to a Harbor
Freight trickle charger. A couple months later, the battery was way
low of water, and filling wtih distilled didn't bring it back to life.
I credit the HF float charger (wall wart plug with a cord and couple
of clips) with killing my battery. I should not have left the charger
on.


Trolling for marines?