Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 88
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

10 years old, replaced the carb in 2006 at the suggestion of a Lawn Boy
repair shop. Original plastic carb, throttle shaft sticks disabling the
governor. New carb was redesigned supposedly to cure this but 4 year later
running into the same problem. The plastic carb is warping when tightened
down making either the butterfly stick of the shaft or both.

Temp cure is to loosen the mounting screws (two philips heads) to free up
the throttle shaft so the governor works. That allows it to be used but
the engine revs back and forth telling me the shaft is still a bit
sticky. Any looser bolted to the motor and it will suck air at the gasket
and not run right.

What to do...

Option 1, sand the carb flange with 1000 grit on a flat surface to make
sure it is flat (like milling a car motor head) ? Over-bore the throttle
shaft ever so slightly so if the carb flange warps when tightened it
won't seize the shaft? Widen the venturi around the butterfly so if it is
seizing when the carb is tightened it won't seize? All the above?

I'm tired of ****ing with this POS. My kid mowed this morning and except
for the wide open initial rev (2 seconds) when started and the govenor
oscillation when there is no load on the motor, it actually ran well.
But i know as soon as it sits for a while, maybe a week or two, I'm going
to have to **** with it again.

Your thoughts (besides buy a new mower);



  #2   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 223
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

1) clean up your language. This is open forum. Children, priests,
nuns, and Mormons read here.
2) When an engine can't stabilize at a desired RPM, this is called
"word deleted" and the problem is often the "word deleted". I'll tell
you, after your apology for using crude language.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Jeff The Drunk" wrote in message
news 10 years old, replaced the carb in 2006 at the suggestion of a Lawn
Boy
repair shop. Original plastic carb, throttle shaft sticks disabling
the
governor. New carb was redesigned supposedly to cure this but 4 year
later
running into the same problem. The plastic carb is warping when
tightened
down making either the butterfly stick of the shaft or both.

Temp cure is to loosen the mounting screws (two philips heads) to free
up
the throttle shaft so the governor works. That allows it to be used
but
the engine revs back and forth telling me the shaft is still a bit
sticky. Any looser bolted to the motor and it will suck air at the
gasket
and not run right.

What to do...

Option 1, sand the carb flange with 1000 grit on a flat surface to
make
sure it is flat (like milling a car motor head) ? Over-bore the
throttle
shaft ever so slightly so if the carb flange warps when tightened it
won't seize the shaft? Widen the venturi around the butterfly so if it
is
seizing when the carb is tightened it won't seize? All the above?

I'm tired of fxxxxxx with this Pxx. My kid mowed this morning and
except
for the wide open initial rev (2 seconds) when started and the govenor
oscillation when there is no load on the motor, it actually ran well.
But i know as soon as it sits for a while, maybe a week or two, I'm
going
to have to fxxx with it again.

Your thoughts (besides buy a new mower);




  #3   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,236
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

On Aug 14, 9:13*am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
10 years old, replaced the carb in 2006 at the suggestion of a Lawn Boy
repair shop. Original plastic carb, throttle shaft sticks disabling the
governor. New carb was redesigned supposedly to cure this but 4 year later
running into the same problem. The plastic carb is warping when tightened
down making either the butterfly stick of the shaft or both.

Temp cure is to loosen the mounting screws (two philips heads) to free up
the throttle shaft so the governor works. That allows it to be used but
the engine revs back and forth telling me the shaft is still a bit
sticky. Any looser bolted to the motor and it will suck air at the gasket
and not run right.

What to do...

Option 1, sand the carb flange with 1000 grit on a flat surface to make
sure it is flat (like milling a car motor head) ? Over-bore the throttle
shaft ever so slightly so if the carb flange warps when tightened it
won't seize the shaft? Widen the venturi around the butterfly so if it is
seizing when the carb is tightened it won't seize? All the above?

I'm tired of ****ing with this POS. My kid mowed this morning and except
for the wide open initial rev (2 seconds) when started and the govenor
oscillation when there is no load on the motor, it actually ran well.
But i know as soon as it sits for a while, maybe a week or two, I'm going
to have to **** with it again.

Your thoughts (besides buy a new mower);


Can't you make a gasket that will have the inverse irregularities?
Sounds like a few layers of paper judiciously placed might do the
trick. Also please clean up your language...
  #4   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 88
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 08:18:44 -0700, hr(bob) wrote:

On Aug 14, 9:13Â*am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
10 years old, replaced the carb in 2006 at the suggestion of a Lawn Boy
repair shop. Original plastic carb, throttle shaft sticks disabling the
governor. New carb was redesigned supposedly to cure this but 4 year
later running into the same problem. The plastic carb is warping when
tightened down making either the butterfly stick of the shaft or both.

Temp cure is to loosen the mounting screws (two philips heads) to free
up the throttle shaft so the governor works. That allows it to be used
but the engine revs back and forth telling me the shaft is still a bit
sticky. Any looser bolted to the motor and it will suck air at the
gasket and not run right.

What to do...

Option 1, sand the carb flange with 1000 grit on a flat surface to make
sure it is flat (like milling a car motor head) ? Over-bore the
throttle shaft ever so slightly so if the carb flange warps when
tightened it won't seize the shaft? Widen the venturi around the
butterfly so if it is seizing when the carb is tightened it won't
seize? All the above?

I'm tired of ****ing with this POS. My kid mowed this morning and
except for the wide open initial rev (2 seconds) when started and the
govenor oscillation when there is no load on the motor, it actually ran
well. But i know as soon as it sits for a while, maybe a week or two,
I'm going to have to **** with it again.

Your thoughts (besides buy a new mower);


Can't you make a gasket that will have the inverse irregularities?
Sounds like a few layers of paper judiciously placed might do the trick.
Also please clean up your language...


Don't grammar-cop my language #1.

Paper would likely never stand up to the heat of the motor. The problem
is that the carb is plastic and has warped. There are several approaches
to modding the carb to get a few more years out of it, I described most
of them. I think what I will try first is widening the venturi around the
butterfly by a .001 or so. The butterfly slides through a slot on the
throttle shaft and is held in place by three indents in the butterfly.
Too small to use screws I guess. The throttle shaft itself seems loose
enough when the carb is off so I doubt the carb flange is warping enough
to effect it. The butterfly and shaft are about 1 or 2 mm behind the carb
outlet flange so they are really close to the motor.
  #5   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 88
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 10:59:29 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

1) clean up your language. This is open forum. Children, priests, nuns,
and Mormons read here.
2) When an engine can't stabilize at a desired RPM, this is called "word
deleted" and the problem is often the "word deleted". I'll tell you,
after your apology for using crude language.


Ok if you want a ****ing apology so be it. I apologize for my crude
****ing language.

Now please tell me how to stabilize my ****ing motor.


  #6   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 124
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 08:18:44 -0700, hr(bob) wrote:

On Aug 14, 9:13 am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
10 years old, replaced the carb in 2006 at the suggestion of a Lawn Boy
repair shop. Original plastic carb, throttle shaft sticks disabling the
governor. New carb was redesigned supposedly to cure this but 4 year
later running into the same problem. The plastic carb is warping when
tightened down making either the butterfly stick of the shaft or both.

Temp cure is to loosen the mounting screws (two philips heads) to free
up the throttle shaft so the governor works. That allows it to be used
but the engine revs back and forth telling me the shaft is still a bit
sticky. Any looser bolted to the motor and it will suck air at the
gasket and not run right.

What to do...

Option 1, sand the carb flange with 1000 grit on a flat surface to make
sure it is flat (like milling a car motor head) ? Over-bore the
throttle shaft ever so slightly so if the carb flange warps when
tightened it won't seize the shaft? Widen the venturi around the
butterfly so if it is seizing when the carb is tightened it won't
seize? All the above?

I'm tired of ****ing with this POS. My kid mowed this morning and
except for the wide open initial rev (2 seconds) when started and the
govenor oscillation when there is no load on the motor, it actually ran
well. But i know as soon as it sits for a while, maybe a week or two,
I'm going to have to **** with it again.

Your thoughts (besides buy a new mower);

Can't you make a gasket that will have the inverse irregularities?
Sounds like a few layers of paper judiciously placed might do the trick.
Also please clean up your language...


Don't grammar-cop my language #1.

Paper would likely never stand up to the heat of the motor. The problem
is that the carb is plastic and has warped. There are several approaches
to modding the carb to get a few more years out of it, I described most
of them. I think what I will try first is widening the venturi around the
butterfly by a .001 or so. The butterfly slides through a slot on the
throttle shaft and is held in place by three indents in the butterfly.
Too small to use screws I guess. The throttle shaft itself seems loose
enough when the carb is off so I doubt the carb flange is warping enough
to effect it. The butterfly and shaft are about 1 or 2 mm behind the carb
outlet flange so they are really close to the motor.


Three or four more beers and the answer will present itself to you.
Oooooohmmmmmmm hick hick You sure it's a 2 cycle? Hick hick
Oooooohmmmmmm
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,679
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

On 08/14/2010 02:04 PM, FatterDumber& Happier Moe wrote:
Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 08:18:44 -0700, hr(bob) wrote:

On Aug 14, 9:13 am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
10 years old, replaced the carb in 2006 at the suggestion of a Lawn Boy
repair shop. Original plastic carb, throttle shaft sticks disabling the
governor. New carb was redesigned supposedly to cure this but 4 year
later running into the same problem. The plastic carb is warping when
tightened down making either the butterfly stick of the shaft or both.

Temp cure is to loosen the mounting screws (two philips heads) to free
up the throttle shaft so the governor works. That allows it to be used
but the engine revs back and forth telling me the shaft is still a bit
sticky. Any looser bolted to the motor and it will suck air at the
gasket and not run right.

What to do...

Option 1, sand the carb flange with 1000 grit on a flat surface to make
sure it is flat (like milling a car motor head) ? Over-bore the
throttle shaft ever so slightly so if the carb flange warps when
tightened it won't seize the shaft? Widen the venturi around the
butterfly so if it is seizing when the carb is tightened it won't
seize? All the above?

I'm tired of ****ing with this POS. My kid mowed this morning and
except for the wide open initial rev (2 seconds) when started and the
govenor oscillation when there is no load on the motor, it actually ran
well. But i know as soon as it sits for a while, maybe a week or two,
I'm going to have to **** with it again.

Your thoughts (besides buy a new mower);
Can't you make a gasket that will have the inverse irregularities?
Sounds like a few layers of paper judiciously placed might do the trick.
Also please clean up your language...


Don't grammar-cop my language #1.
Paper would likely never stand up to the heat of the motor. The
problem is that the carb is plastic and has warped. There are several
approaches to modding the carb to get a few more years out of it, I
described most of them. I think what I will try first is widening the
venturi around the butterfly by a .001 or so. The butterfly slides
through a slot on the throttle shaft and is held in place by three
indents in the butterfly. Too small to use screws I guess. The
throttle shaft itself seems loose enough when the carb is off so I
doubt the carb flange is warping enough to effect it. The butterfly
and shaft are about 1 or 2 mm behind the carb outlet flange so they
are really close to the motor.


Three or four more beers and the answer will present itself to you.
Oooooohmmmmmmm hick hick You sure it's a 2 cycle? Hick hick Oooooohmmmmmm


how about milling the carb base flat, then removing the throttle and
inserting a metal sleeve for the shaft?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
  #8   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 88
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 14:09:51 -0400, Nate Nagel wrote:

On 08/14/2010 02:04 PM, FatterDumber& Happier Moe wrote:
Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 08:18:44 -0700, hr(bob) wrote:

On Aug 14, 9:13 am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
10 years old, replaced the carb in 2006 at the suggestion of a Lawn
Boy repair shop. Original plastic carb, throttle shaft sticks
disabling the governor. New carb was redesigned supposedly to cure
this but 4 year later running into the same problem. The plastic
carb is warping when tightened down making either the butterfly
stick of the shaft or both.

Temp cure is to loosen the mounting screws (two philips heads) to
free up the throttle shaft so the governor works. That allows it to
be used but the engine revs back and forth telling me the shaft is
still a bit sticky. Any looser bolted to the motor and it will suck
air at the gasket and not run right.

What to do...

Option 1, sand the carb flange with 1000 grit on a flat surface to
make sure it is flat (like milling a car motor head) ? Over-bore the
throttle shaft ever so slightly so if the carb flange warps when
tightened it won't seize the shaft? Widen the venturi around the
butterfly so if it is seizing when the carb is tightened it won't
seize? All the above?

I'm tired of ****ing with this POS. My kid mowed this morning and
except for the wide open initial rev (2 seconds) when started and
the govenor oscillation when there is no load on the motor, it
actually ran well. But i know as soon as it sits for a while, maybe
a week or two, I'm going to have to **** with it again.

Your thoughts (besides buy a new mower);
Can't you make a gasket that will have the inverse irregularities?
Sounds like a few layers of paper judiciously placed might do the
trick. Also please clean up your language...

Don't grammar-cop my language #1.
Paper would likely never stand up to the heat of the motor. The
problem is that the carb is plastic and has warped. There are several
approaches to modding the carb to get a few more years out of it, I
described most of them. I think what I will try first is widening the
venturi around the butterfly by a .001 or so. The butterfly slides
through a slot on the throttle shaft and is held in place by three
indents in the butterfly. Too small to use screws I guess. The
throttle shaft itself seems loose enough when the carb is off so I
doubt the carb flange is warping enough to effect it. The butterfly
and shaft are about 1 or 2 mm behind the carb outlet flange so they
are really close to the motor.


Three or four more beers and the answer will present itself to you.
Oooooohmmmmmmm hick hick You sure it's a 2 cycle? Hick hick
Oooooohmmmmmm


how about milling the carb base flat, then removing the throttle and
inserting a metal sleeve for the shaft?


The mill part is food for thought like I had explained previous. But the
sleeved shaft would be difficult because of the size. And I really don't
know what is binding either, the butterfly of the shaft.

And to the FatterDumber& Happier Moe goofball. Nice Ad Homenim attempt.
I guess you think I'm drunk just because I call myself Jeff The Drunk.
Fact is I don't drink so how ****ing stupid do you look?
  #9   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 88
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 13:04:41 -0500, FatterDumber& Happier Moe wrote:

Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 08:18:44 -0700, hr(bob) wrote:

On Aug 14, 9:13 am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
10 years old, replaced the carb in 2006 at the suggestion of a Lawn
Boy repair shop. Original plastic carb, throttle shaft sticks
disabling the governor. New carb was redesigned supposedly to cure
this but 4 year later running into the same problem. The plastic carb
is warping when tightened down making either the butterfly stick of
the shaft or both.

Temp cure is to loosen the mounting screws (two philips heads) to
free up the throttle shaft so the governor works. That allows it to
be used but the engine revs back and forth telling me the shaft is
still a bit sticky. Any looser bolted to the motor and it will suck
air at the gasket and not run right.

What to do...

Option 1, sand the carb flange with 1000 grit on a flat surface to
make sure it is flat (like milling a car motor head) ? Over-bore the
throttle shaft ever so slightly so if the carb flange warps when
tightened it won't seize the shaft? Widen the venturi around the
butterfly so if it is seizing when the carb is tightened it won't
seize? All the above?

I'm tired of ****ing with this POS. My kid mowed this morning and
except for the wide open initial rev (2 seconds) when started and the
govenor oscillation when there is no load on the motor, it actually
ran well. But i know as soon as it sits for a while, maybe a week or
two, I'm going to have to **** with it again.

Your thoughts (besides buy a new mower);
Can't you make a gasket that will have the inverse irregularities?
Sounds like a few layers of paper judiciously placed might do the
trick.
Also please clean up your language...


Don't grammar-cop my language #1.

Paper would likely never stand up to the heat of the motor. The problem
is that the carb is plastic and has warped. There are several
approaches to modding the carb to get a few more years out of it, I
described most of them. I think what I will try first is widening the
venturi around the butterfly by a .001 or so. The butterfly slides
through a slot on the throttle shaft and is held in place by three
indents in the butterfly. Too small to use screws I guess. The throttle
shaft itself seems loose enough when the carb is off so I doubt the
carb flange is warping enough to effect it. The butterfly and shaft are
about 1 or 2 mm behind the carb outlet flange so they are really close
to the motor.


Three or four more beers and the answer will present itself to you.
Oooooohmmmmmmm hick hick You sure it's a 2 cycle? Hick hick
Oooooohmmmmmm


Blahblahblah Ad Homenim...laughed at. I don't drink, moron.
  #10   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,803
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

Plonk!





  #11   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 88
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 11:48:09 -0700, Bob F wrote:

Plonk!


PLONK!
  #12   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,331
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

Jeff The Drunk wrote:
10 years old, replaced the carb in 2006 at the suggestion of a Lawn Boy
repair shop. Original plastic carb, throttle shaft sticks disabling the
governor. New carb was redesigned supposedly to cure this but 4 year later
running into the same problem. The plastic carb is warping when tightened
down making either the butterfly stick of the shaft or both.


If you are not sure which is sticking, can you remove the butterfly and
see if the shaft alone sticks? Or does it have to be running for it to
stick? I wouldn't suggest starting it up with the butterfly off!!!!
  #13   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 88
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 15:33:19 -0400, Tony wrote:

Jeff The Drunk wrote:
10 years old, replaced the carb in 2006 at the suggestion of a Lawn Boy
repair shop. Original plastic carb, throttle shaft sticks disabling the
governor. New carb was redesigned supposedly to cure this but 4 year
later running into the same problem. The plastic carb is warping when
tightened down making either the butterfly stick of the shaft or both.


If you are not sure which is sticking, can you remove the butterfly and
see if the shaft alone sticks? Or does it have to be running for it to
stick? I wouldn't suggest starting it up with the butterfly off!!!!


Heh no I wouldn't run it without the butterfly. It's a fair pain in the
butt to pull the carb and airbox out but I could easily get the butterfly
out. I had to put the carb together when I bought it. It's just held in
the shaft by two dimples on one side and one on the other. When it is off
the motor if you rotate it all the way open it does stick but you have to
force it to stick. Much more force than the governor spring would
provide. Except for the high rev when you restart it (meaning its
sticking until the flywheel pushes enough air on the vane to close the
butterfly) it ran good today. I did remove one of the two rubber gaskets
between the carb and the motor. Makes it a little more solid union under
torque so the throttle body doesn't deform as much as it used to. Since
it is plastic against metal I may mess with the way I tighten the two
mounting screws. That may have something to do with the binding also.
  #14   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 223
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

Plonk!

Please note that your crude language was deleted from this reply.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Jeff The Drunk" wrote in message
news On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 10:59:29 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

1) clean up your language.



  #15   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 88
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 08:07:20 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Plonk!

Please note that your crude language was deleted from this reply.


Don't you have some Magic Underwear to worship?

BTW repair is complete. Was the butterfly disc binding. A mere sanding
the edge with 1000 emery and problem resolved. Now all you Higher than
Thou ****heads can kiss by lily-white ass.


  #16   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 124
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 08:07:20 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Plonk!

Please note that your crude language was deleted from this reply.


Don't you have some Magic Underwear to worship?

BTW repair is complete. Was the butterfly disc binding. A mere sanding
the edge with 1000 emery and problem resolved. Now all you Higher than
Thou ****heads can kiss by lily-white ass.


Glad we could help, come back anytime for more assistance.
  #17   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 88
Default Tecumseh 6 horse 2 cycle.

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 12:13:26 -0500, FatterDumber& Happier Moe wrote:

Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 08:07:20 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Plonk!

Please note that your crude language was deleted from this reply.


Don't you have some Magic Underwear to worship?

BTW repair is complete. Was the butterfly disc binding. A mere sanding
the edge with 1000 emery and problem resolved. Now all you Higher than
Thou ****heads can kiss by lily-white ass.


Glad we could help, come back anytime for more assistance.


Did you help? Well I guess you did. Laughing at you was good medicine.
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Professional CNC machine -- meaning of CYCLE START and CYCLE STOP Ignoramus18915 Metalworking 16 August 2nd 10 02:42 PM
Two-cycle oil in four-cycle snowblower! Help ... [email protected] Home Repair 12 January 10th 09 04:10 AM
Horse power, horse hockey boorite Woodworking 15 September 22nd 06 03:41 PM
Sears snowblower with 11 horse Tecumseh engine (Stalling out) bill Home Repair 5 February 16th 06 08:58 PM
Sears snowblower with 11 horse Tecumseh engine (Stalling out) bill Home Repair 3 February 16th 06 01:42 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:00 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"