How is hardwood flooring fastened down over a concrete slab. This is the
real oak that is then sanded and finished.

If an oak floor, such as the above, has been refinished once, can it be
sanded and refinished again for a third go-round?

If a natural colored oak floor that has been refinished previously is sanded
out, can it be stained a darker color?

Thank you in advance.

Roger

"RES" wrote in message
...
How is hardwood flooring fastened down over a concrete slab. This is the
real oak that is then sanded and finished.

Probably an adhesive. Not usually done over concrete though.



If an oak floor, such as the above, has been refinished once, can it be
sanded and refinished again for a third go-round?

If a natural colored oak floor that has been refinished previously is
sanded out, can it be stained a darker color?

Thank you in advance.

Yes
Yes
You're welcome

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 00:36:37 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:


"RES" wrote in message
...
How is hardwood flooring fastened down over a concrete slab. This is the
real oak that is then sanded and finished.

Probably an adhesive. Not usually done over concrete though.

It's actually done pretty regularly around here where the slab house is king.
I have bamboo over concrete, which isn't all that great of an idea as it turns
out. Some day I'll probably rip it up and put down some sort of hardwood.


If an oak floor, such as the above, has been refinished once, can it be
sanded and refinished again for a third go-round?

If a natural colored oak floor that has been refinished previously is
sanded out, can it be stained a darker color?

Thank you in advance.

Yes
Yes
You're welcome

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
Probably an adhesive. Not usually done over concrete though.

It's actually done pretty regularly around here where the slab house
is king. I have bamboo over concrete, which isn't all that great of
an idea as it turns out. Some day I'll probably rip it up and put
down some sort of hardwood.

Just curious. Why is it a bad idea?

None of us can answer. Have a local hardwood floor man check. It
has to do with how much material is left before getting into the
tongues. Most floors can be sanded 3 times, again depending on
how heavy each sanding has been.

Be VERY cautious about staining the floor dark. Make sure you go
see several full rooms somewhere with a dark stain. It is
decision from which you cannot recover. I've known several people
to regret the decision.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"RES" wrote in message
...
How is hardwood flooring fastened down over a concrete slab.
This is the real oak that is then sanded and finished.

If an oak floor, such as the above, has been refinished once,
can it be sanded and refinished again for a third go-round?

If a natural colored oak floor that has been refinished
previously is sanded out, can it be stained a darker color?

Thank you in advance.

Roger

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 00:29:29 -0700, "Bob F" wrote:

wrote:
Probably an adhesive. Not usually done over concrete though.

It's actually done pretty regularly around here where the slab house
is king. I have bamboo over concrete, which isn't all that great of
an idea as it turns out. Some day I'll probably rip it up and put
down some sort of hardwood.

Just curious. Why is it a bad idea?

Bamboo doesn't seem to like glue. There are "hollow" spots under the floor.
The "good" news is that I don't think it'll be any trouble to take up. :-(

It's crap bamboo, too, but that's not pertinent to the discussion of
flooring-on-slab.

"John" wrote in message
...


A few comments: The grain in Oak is porous, and allows stain to soak
in for a decent distance making it hard to sand and restain properly.
So, the grain of the oak might not absorb your stain at an even rate,
and you might get some spotty sections if you try to go a different
color. Secondly, I wouldn't put wood directly on concrete -- there
are some rot issues there. You can get some underlay material from
your local hw store. A thin sheet of plastic is a minimum, but even
2mm foam makes the floor a touch easier on the back, and will absorb
some extra sound. If this is in a basement where's there's a
potential for seepage/flooding, you should go a step further than
that, and make sure there's somewhere for the fluids to drain to.

John

Thanks. When I first wrote the question, it was about an existing oak
hardwood floor in a house we were looking at. The floor had been finished
after installation and then about 7 years ago. The second refinish was
sand, clear stain and 2 coats of poly. The question involved a third
sanding and staining a bit darker. As you hit on, the concern I had was the
effect of the two previous coats of natural stain and the 3-4 coats of poly
that had gone before. Having finished and refinished furniture, I know that
the old finish can penetrate wood at different depths and rates, and that a
color change is very dangerous to try. You've confirmed my concern.

The flooring in question is installed both on slab and over a half basement.
I have no idea what's below the flooring and would presume it to be 30#
felt, but who knows. I have no idea if the slab portion is floated or
secured, and suspect the latter using a glued down underlayment. In 1995,
when it was new, my guess is that they were not big on gluing the T&G joints
and just floating the oak boards.

Thanks to all for the responses.

Nonny

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 15, 11:26 pm, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 11:32:43 -0700, "Walter E."
wrote:

This would double the cost of installation and is unnecessary. In the entire
SW US houses are built on concrete slabs. Hardwood, either solid or
engineered, is glued or floated (with a vapor barrier) on top of the
concrete. Done it myself with 3/8 engineered hardwood. Looks really great
and, after 15 years, looks like new. There is no warping with engineered
hardwood and it is less expensive because only a veneer is used as a top
layer. It comes pre-finished with an ultra hard finish.
Walter
And can NOT be effectively sanded and re-finished.



www.rationality.net
"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:VTu9o.807$ag5.600@hurricane...
RES wrote:
(snip)Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

But as cheap as it is if you price the sand/refinish labor it would
pay for new manufactured flooring.

But unless it has a layer of real wood on top, it looks like a cheap
countertop. Even the kind with the wood top layer, the faux seams and
regular joint patterns scream at me. (and when I was house shopping, I
saw several where they didn't even stagger the seams....)

--
aem sends...

In article ,
Gary Dyrkacz. wrote:

I used the floating floor technique, using two layers of 3/8" 4'x8'
plywood sheets fastened together with screws and construction glue
over a moisture barrier plastic sheeting on the concrete. The sheets
were laid over each other so there were no overlapping seams. I them
nailed 3/4" engineered flooring to that. As someone else suggested, I
used shorter nails (T nails in my case) to nail the flooring - 1/3/16"
nails for face nailing, and 1 1/2" for tongue nailing, compared to
the standard 2 1/4" nails. This was only three years ago, and no
problems so far. There is a bit of a hollow sound when walking across
it, but not annoying. The other alternative is gluing.

I thought a floating floor was neither glued nor screwed to the
sub-floor.

On Aug 15, 11:26*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 11:32:43 -0700, "Walter E."
wrote:

This would double the cost of installation and is unnecessary. In the entire
SW US houses are built on concrete slabs. Hardwood, either solid or
engineered, is glued or floated (with a vapor barrier) on top of the
concrete. Done it myself with 3/8 engineered hardwood. Looks really great
and, after 15 years, looks like new. There is no warping with engineered
hardwood and it is less expensive because only a veneer is used as a top
layer. It comes pre-finished with an ultra hard finish.

Walter

And can NOT be effectively sanded and re-finished.



Who says all engineered hardwood can't be sanded and re-finished?
I've seen lots of references that say those that have a thick enough
top layer can be sanded 1-2 times, maybe more. I think it depends on
which product you buy.