Thanks to all who gave me advice on oil vs. water finishing coat. I've
decided on oil.

But there's another problem. When I sanded the table top, the wood turned
out to be not mahogany but something that was very blonde, almost white.

I used the Minwax color chart to choose a shade that seemed closest to the
original.

But even when I put on two coats, the top is a lighter shade than the
original. Using two coats didn't help much.

I haven't put on the finishing coat yet.

Question: Can I now use a darker chade of Minwax over the one I just put on?

On Aug 8, 9:27*am, "Ray" wrote:
Thanks to all who gave me advice on oil vs. water finishing coat. I've
decided on oil.

But there's another problem. When I * sanded the table top, the wood turned
out to be not mahogany but something that was very blonde, almost white.

I used the Minwax color chart to choose a shade that seemed closest to the
original.

But even when I put on two coats, the top is a lighter shade than the
original. Using two coats didn't help much.

I haven't put on the finishing coat yet.

Question: Can I now use a darker chade of Minwax over the one I just put on?

What kind of wood is it, how much darker, are you matching the bottom,
how about a photo or we should just guess. Different woods use
different stains, I dont really like minwax, it doesnt have deep color
on some woods it to thin. Ive been using gel stain, but I forgot the
name. Are you still doing the HD thing, go to a real paint store you
would have avoided this by bringing in a photo.

On Aug 8, 9:27*am, "Ray" wrote:
Thanks to all who gave me advice on oil vs. water finishing coat. I've
decided on oil.

But there's another problem. When I * sanded the table top, the wood turned
out to be not mahogany but something that was very blonde, almost white.

I used the Minwax color chart to choose a shade that seemed closest to the
original.

But even when I put on two coats, the top is a lighter shade than the
original. Using two coats didn't help much.

I haven't put on the finishing coat yet.

Question: Can I now use a darker chade of Minwax over the one I just put on?

Now that you stained it it must fully cure or restaining it will smear
the old stain, maybe1 -3 weeks depending on humidity and temp. Maybe
take out the paint stripper and start over. You just made a problem
for yourself.

On Aug 8, 10:27*am, "Ray" wrote:
Thanks to all who gave me advice on oil vs. water finishing coat. I've
decided on oil.

But there's another problem. When I * sanded the table top, the wood turned
out to be not mahogany but something that was very blonde, almost white.

I used the Minwax color chart to choose a shade that seemed closest to the
original.

But even when I put on two coats, the top is a lighter shade than the
original. Using two coats didn't help much.

I haven't put on the finishing coat yet.

Question: Can I now use a darker chade of Minwax over the one I just put on?

This is all the same question so you should keep it all in the same
thread - don't start new ones.

Staining bare wood, when you don't know what the wood is, and you
don't have a lot of experience, is a recipe for heartbreak.

http://www.bing.com/search?q=shellac...22spit+coat%22

R

"Ray" wrote

Question: Can I now use a darker chade of Minwax over the one I just put
on?

Yes, but the results may still be on the light side. The first coats soaked
into the wood and will act a bit as a sealer. I'd wait a week or so and
they consider using a gel stain. They take a bit more time to apply, but
they tend to stay darker once applied.

"Ray" wrote in message
...

. . . When I sanded the table top, the wood turned
out to be not mahogany but something that was very blonde, almost white.

I used the Minwax color chart to choose a shade that seemed closest to the
original.

But even when I put on two coats, the top is a lighter shade than the
original. Using two coats didn't help much.

I haven't put on the finishing coat yet.

Question: Can I now use a darker chade of Minwax over the one I just put
on?

The Minwax range can be deceptive so far as these products claim
to be both a stain and a finish. Classic woodworking proceeded
differentlly, first filling and sanding for the right texture, secondly
staining to produce the colour you want, thirdly and lastly applying
the finish (anything from an exterior shell, e.g. urethane or French
polish, to teak oil which requires reapplication every X months.)
Minwax products offer two at once to speed this process.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

"Ray" wrote:

Thanks to all who gave me advice on oil vs. water finishing coat. I've
decided on oil.

But there's another problem. When I sanded the table top, the wood turned
out to be not mahogany but something that was very blonde, almost white.

I used the Minwax color chart to choose a shade that seemed closest to the
original.

Minwax is a brand name. They make an assortment of products from a
variety of different types of stains to some 'one step' products
designed, IMO, for quick and dirty jobs where appearance is of little
concern.

You were asking about polyurethanes before, so I'm concerned that what
you've started is not just staining. but staining/finishing.


But even when I put on two coats, the top is a lighter shade than the
original. Using two coats didn't help much.

I haven't put on the finishing coat yet.

Question: Can I now use a darker chade of Minwax over the one I just put on?

*If* what you used was just a stain, with *no* finishers in it, then
probably. If you used a one step product, then see what it says on
the label about re-coating. [I think the answer is yes- but it has
been a long time since I used that stuff]

If you used a one step product, and then try to use a stain, the
answer is no.

Jim

On Aug 8, 11:16*am, "Don Phillipson" wrote:
"Ray" wrote in message

...

. . . *When I * sanded the table top, the wood turned
out to be not mahogany but something that was very blonde, almost white..

I used the Minwax color chart to choose a shade that seemed closest to the
original.

But even when I put on two coats, the top is a lighter shade than the
original. Using two coats didn't help much.

I haven't put on the finishing coat yet.

Question: Can I now use a darker chade of Minwax over the one I just put

on?

The Minwax range can be deceptive so far as these products claim
to be both a stain and a finish. *Classic woodworking proceeded
differentlly, first filling and sanding for the right texture, secondly
staining to produce the colour you want, thirdly and lastly applying
the finish (anything from an exterior shell, e.g. urethane or French
polish, to teak oil which requires reapplication every X months.)
Minwax products offer two at once to speed this process.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

If its a sealer then it may not darken, Ive never liked minwax stains
on some projects I did, I would get something with more effect.

On Aug 8, 9:27*am, "Ray" wrote:
Thanks to all who gave me advice on oil vs. water finishing coat. I've
decided on oil.

But there's another problem. When I * sanded the table top, the wood turned
out to be not mahogany but something that was very blonde, almost white.

I used the Minwax color chart to choose a shade that seemed closest to the
original.

But even when I put on two coats, the top is a lighter shade than the
original. Using two coats didn't help much.

I haven't put on the finishing coat yet.

Question: Can I now use a darker chade of Minwax over the one I just put on?

Try some Cabot stains. Their product line is different, considered by
many to be top notch, available IIRC at Lowes. Use Minwax and
specialty finishes, myself, and Cabots are on the list to try.

Joe

Thanks again to all who responded.

I think the problem is solved. I put on five coats of the same stain,
waiting six hours between recoating, and I've pretty much reached the
desired shade.

-- Ray

"Ray" wrote in message
...
Thanks to all who gave me advice on oil vs. water finishing coat. I've
decided on oil.

But there's another problem. When I sanded the table top, the wood
turned out to be not mahogany but something that was very blonde, almost
white.

I used the Minwax color chart to choose a shade that seemed closest to the
original.

But even when I put on two coats, the top is a lighter shade than the
original. Using two coats didn't help much.

I haven't put on the finishing coat yet.

Question: Can I now use a darker chade of Minwax over the one I just put
on?