On Sun, 04 May 2014 22:38:17 -0400, HomeGuy
Home@Guy.com wrote:

Frank unnecessarily full-quoted:


Home Guy unnecessarily cross posted:

X-Post removed.

InTheSouth wrote:
On Tuesday, July 6, 2010 2:13:00 AM UTC-4, James H. wrote:
Does anyone bother sharpening their lawnmower blade?

According to the searspartsdirect web site, it costs about $15 for a new
lawn mower blade for my Craftsman 917.388853 6.5HP 21" push lawn mower
(Briggs & Stratton engine 123K02-0444-E1), plus 10% sales tax & 10 dollars
shipping. I'm sure it will cost double or triple that to have someone else
sharpen it, assuming standard labor rates of $100 to $200 an hour out here.


I sharpen the blades a bit while it's on the mower. Makes a big difference.

I knew I needed to order new blades, because they were bent. I can't unbend
them myself. Last week caught up on manhole cover out back. Busted blade
mount on rider. Been there before. Found cheap entire kit for $63. Two of
everything plus belts.

Other rider leaked gas into oil last year. Engine pretty much gone. Oh I
guess I go to scrap. Got good use out of that used mower or 8 years. Lots
of stumps, roots, branches, etc.

Tried to start larger mower brother gave me last summer. Wiring mess on
that. Got to jump start solenoid. Not sucking gas. Tried priming fuel
pump. Runs ok on that for a while. Still needs work. My grass is growing.

Waiting for parts. Got 3 push mowers. I'll wait.

Greg

On 5/4/2014 3:24 PM, InTheSouth wrote:
On Tuesday, July 6, 2010 2:13:00 AM UTC-4, James H. wrote:
Does anyone bother sharpening their lawnmower blade?

According to the searspartsdirect web site, it costs about $15 for a new
lawn mower blade for my Craftsman 917.388853 6.5HP 21" push lawn mower
(Briggs & Stratton engine 123K02-0444-E1), plus 10% sales tax & 10 dollars
shipping. I'm sure it will cost double or triple that to have someone else
sharpen it, assuming standard labor rates of $100 to $200 an hour out here.

The owners manual (on page 12) recommends against sharpening the blade.
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0505023.pdf

The blade seems to cut well no matter how many rocks I hit (I have other
problems like a sheared flywheel key, but the grass was getting cut even
with a five-year-old dinged up blade).

My question is:
Does anyone bother sharpening a blade?

The reason I ask is it will likely cost more to have someone sharpen the
blade than the blade costs and my blade seems to cut as well now as when
new five years ago, even after countless rocks and tree stumps have been
"mulched" by the blade. Those things are practically indestructible.

Do you bother to sharpen your blade? Why?



I take them off and sharpen on a bench grinder. With all the trees and
shrubs about my yard dropping twigs they get nicked and dull quickly.
Makes a noticible difference in performance and looks much neater, no
brown sheen on top from being ripped off rather than cleanly cut.

John

On Mon, 05 May 2014 19:47:33 -0400, John wrote:

I take them off and sharpen on a bench grinder. With all the trees and
shrubs about my yard dropping twigs they get nicked and dull quickly.
Makes a noticible difference in performance and looks much neater, no
brown sheen on top from being ripped off rather than cleanly cut.

John

I'm glad a grinder works for you. Metal files work best for me and I
don't turn the blade edges blue.

Oren posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


On Sun, 04 May 2014 16:02:47 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Do you bother to sharpen your blade? Why?

Sure, takes a few minutes and cuts better, cleaner. Most times I just
take a file and do it in place. Same number of swipes on each side to
keep it in balance.

I use a file. If the blade edge has nicks - best done in a vice - both
sides of the cutting edge.

*******?

--
Tekkie

Oren posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


On Sun, 04 May 2014 17:12:27 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I also balance the blade.

You balance it or check it for balance?

My wife sharpens & balances the blade by running over tree roots.

--
Tekkie

gregz posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


InTheSouth wrote:
On Tuesday, July 6, 2010 2:13:00 AM UTC-4, James H. wrote:
Does anyone bother sharpening their lawnmower blade?

According to the searspartsdirect web site, it costs about $15 for a new
lawn mower blade for my Craftsman 917.388853 6.5HP 21" push lawn mower
(Briggs & Stratton engine 123K02-0444-E1), plus 10% sales tax & 10 dollars
shipping. I'm sure it will cost double or triple that to have someone else
sharpen it, assuming standard labor rates of $100 to $200 an hour out here.


I sharpen the blades a bit while it's on the mower. Makes a big difference.

I knew I needed to order new blades, because they were bent. I can't unbend
them myself. Last week caught up on manhole cover out back. Busted blade
mount on rider. Been there before. Found cheap entire kit for $63. Two of
everything plus belts.

Other rider leaked gas into oil last year. Engine pretty much gone. Oh I
guess I go to scrap. Got good use out of that used mower or 8 years. Lots
of stumps, roots, branches, etc.

Tried to start larger mower brother gave me last summer. Wiring mess on
that. Got to jump start solenoid. Not sucking gas. Tried priming fuel
pump. Runs ok on that for a while. Still needs work. My grass is growing.

Waiting for parts. Got 3 push mowers. I'll wait.

Greg

That's the spirit! No sense rushing in and creating more problems.

--
Tekkie

"Oren" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 05 May 2014 19:47:33 -0400, John wrote:

I take them off and sharpen on a bench grinder. With all the trees and
shrubs about my yard dropping twigs they get nicked and dull quickly.
Makes a noticible difference in performance and looks much neater, no
brown sheen on top from being ripped off rather than cleanly cut.

John

I'm glad a grinder works for you. Metal files work best for me and I
don't turn the blade edges blue.

I use a 4" angle grinder. Used carefully, no blue.

On Mon, 5 May 2014 20:24:51 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:

My wife sharpens & balances the blade by running over tree roots.

My wife develops an allergy, if she gets around a lawn mover, mostly
when "lawn mower" is even mentioned. It's awful! She doesn't even
have allergies. I think she is playin' me.

We only have ~320 sq. ft. of lawn turf.

On 05/05/2014 06:04 PM, Ken Olson wrote:
"Oren" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 05 May 2014 19:47:33 -0400, John wrote:

I take them off and sharpen on a bench grinder. With all the trees and
shrubs about my yard dropping twigs they get nicked and dull quickly.
Makes a noticible difference in performance and looks much neater, no
brown sheen on top from being ripped off rather than cleanly cut.

John

I'm glad a grinder works for you. Metal files work best for me and I
don't turn the blade edges blue.

I use a 4" angle grinder. Used carefully, no blue.

I used a 6" bench grinder, and no blue either. I run a couple of passes
on one side, then flip it over and do the other side. I don't "dwell" a
long time, as it only takes maybe one second for a pass, taking a light
grind.

Doing it this way keeps the blade cool enough for me to touch it with my
hands.

Jon

Per Jon Danniken:
I used a 6" bench grinder, and no blue either.

My blades are time consuming to remove/replace so I've gone over to a
little attachment to my Dremel tool: turn the mower on it's side, run
the Dremel... and it's done.

But next time I am going to finish off with a light pass perpendicular
to the edge to give it that flat area that Clare mentioned.
--
Pete Cresswell

On 5/5/2014 11:17 PM, Jon Danniken wrote:
On 05/05/2014 06:04 PM, Ken Olson wrote:
"Oren" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 05 May 2014 19:47:33 -0400, John wrote:

I take them off and sharpen on a bench grinder. With all the trees and
shrubs about my yard dropping twigs they get nicked and dull quickly.
Makes a noticible difference in performance and looks much neater, no
brown sheen on top from being ripped off rather than cleanly cut.

John

I'm glad a grinder works for you. Metal files work best for me and I
don't turn the blade edges blue.

I use a 4" angle grinder. Used carefully, no blue.

I used a 6" bench grinder, and no blue either. I run a couple of passes
on one side, then flip it over and do the other side. I don't "dwell" a
long time, as it only takes maybe one second for a pass, taking a light
grind.

Doing it this way keeps the blade cool enough for me to touch it with my
hands.

Jon


Belt sander works well too

You guys give great advice, but my push mower has a reel instead of a blade.

I've tried the valve grinding spin backwards trick and it's a waste of time.

On Tue, 6 May 2014 09:17:16 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

You guys give great advice, but my push mower has a reel instead of a blade.

I've tried the valve grinding spin backwards trick and it's a waste of time.

"Before you take the time and effort to sharpen, are you sure that it
really needs to be sharpened at all? 95 percent of all issues can be
solved by making sure the blades are properly adjusted."

Tips:

http://www.reelmowers.info/

On Tue, 06 May 2014 09:14:36 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote:

Per Jon Danniken:
I used a 6" bench grinder, and no blue either.

My blades are time consuming to remove/replace so I've gone over to a
little attachment to my Dremel tool: turn the mower on it's side, run
the Dremel... and it's done.

But next time I am going to finish off with a light pass perpendicular
to the edge to give it that flat area that Clare mentioned.
The "square" edge effectively provises 2 curring edges.

On 5/6/2014 12:17 PM, TimR wrote:
You guys give great advice, but my push mower has a reel instead of a blade.

I've tried the valve grinding spin backwards trick and it's a waste of time.

One or two I've worked on, the long narrow straight
blade has been too far from the reel. I found threaded
adjusters down near the bottom. Hope that helps.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Tuesday, May 6, 2014 4:55:29 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 5/6/2014 12:17 PM, TimR wrote:

You guys give great advice, but my push mower has a reel instead of a blade.



I've tried the valve grinding spin backwards trick and it's a waste of time.



One or two I've worked on, the long narrow straight

blade has been too far from the reel. I found threaded

adjusters down near the bottom. Hope that helps.



--

.

Christopher A. Young

Learn about Jesus

www.lds.org

.

My adjustments work fine. But the blades are nicked up after years of use. I'd like to grind them clean and square, but can't figure out how to do that at home, and there aren't repair places equipped to work on them like there used to be. You need a jig that holds the grinder on a straight path while you move the reel.

I guess I should ask the golf course where they get theirs done.

Saturday May 10, 2014
Ran the walk behind mower first time
of the year, today. Through high grass,
it barely does anything at all. maybe
Monday (give the motor a chance to
cool) I'll sharpen and balance the
blade.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 5/6/2014 11:49 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 06 May 2014 09:14:36 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote:

Per Jon Danniken:
I used a 6" bench grinder, and no blue either.

My blades are time consuming to remove/replace so I've gone over to a
little attachment to my Dremel tool: turn the mower on it's side, run
the Dremel... and it's done.

But next time I am going to finish off with a light pass perpendicular
to the edge to give it that flat area that Clare mentioned.
The "square" edge effectively provises 2 curring edges.


Mine must not be very "hardened" because I simply run the gas out and
take the spark plug out. Then I take an old hand file and run over the
blade a bit. Seems to work just fine. I probably should balance it but
I've never used anything other than a hand file. I used to take the
blade off, but it just seemed like a waste of time.

On Sat, 10 May 2014 13:46:27 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I'll sharpen and balance the
blade.

....I'm interested in how _you_ balance the blade. I alluded to that
earlier

Comments?

On 5/4/2014 11:46 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 04 May 2014 22:38:17 -0400, HomeGuy
Home@Guy.com wrote:

Frank unnecessarily full-quoted:


Home Guy unnecessarily cross posted:

X-Post removed.


Frank is laughing.

On Sat, 10 May 2014 19:57:13 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 5/4/2014 11:46 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 04 May 2014 22:38:17 -0400, HomeGuy
Home@Guy.com wrote:

Frank unnecessarily full-quoted:


Home Guy unnecessarily cross posted:

X-Post removed.


Frank is laughing.

Where is Bucky?

Oren wrote:

Where is Bucky?

Who is John Galt?

On 5/10/2014 7:32 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 10 May 2014 13:46:27 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I'll sharpen and balance the
blade.

...I'm interested in how _you_ balance the blade. I alluded to that
earlier

Comments?


You alluded must have eluded me. I guess eluded
was included, and I'm deluded.

A lot of years ago, I drove a nail most of the way
into a wall stud in the shop. I put the blade on
the nail, horizontal like. The end that pulls down
gets ground a bit more. Some times I just hold the
blade with a screw driver.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 5/10/2014 8:00 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 10 May 2014 19:57:13 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 5/4/2014 11:46 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 04 May 2014 22:38:17 -0400, HomeGuy
Home@Guy.com wrote:

Frank unnecessarily full-quoted:


Home Guy unnecessarily cross posted:

X-Post removed.


Frank is laughing.

Where is Bucky?


He's busy reporting on shootings.
I'm sure homoguy is confused.

On 05/10/2014 04:15 PM, gonjah wrote:
On 5/6/2014 11:49 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 06 May 2014 09:14:36 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote:

Per Jon Danniken:
I used a 6" bench grinder, and no blue either.

My blades are time consuming to remove/replace so I've gone over to a
little attachment to my Dremel tool: turn the mower on it's side, run
the Dremel... and it's done.

But next time I am going to finish off with a light pass perpendicular
to the edge to give it that flat area that Clare mentioned.
The "square" edge effectively provises 2 curring edges.


Mine must not be very "hardened" because I simply run the gas out and
take the spark plug out. Then I take an old hand file and run over the
blade a bit. Seems to work just fine. I probably should balance it but
I've never used anything other than a hand file. I used to take the
blade off, but it just seemed like a waste of time.

The last thing you want is a hardened mower blade, as it would be too
brittle to be run safely at the speeds a mower blade is run at.
Instead, it is designed to deform when it strikes an unexpected item,
instead of sending chunks hither and yaw.

Jon

On Sun, 11 May 2014 06:11:01 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 05/10/2014 04:15 PM, gonjah wrote:
On 5/6/2014 11:49 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 06 May 2014 09:14:36 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote:

Per Jon Danniken:
I used a 6" bench grinder, and no blue either.

My blades are time consuming to remove/replace so I've gone over to a
little attachment to my Dremel tool: turn the mower on it's side, run
the Dremel... and it's done.

But next time I am going to finish off with a light pass perpendicular
to the edge to give it that flat area that Clare mentioned.
The "square" edge effectively provises 2 curring edges.


Mine must not be very "hardened" because I simply run the gas out and
take the spark plug out. Then I take an old hand file and run over the
blade a bit. Seems to work just fine. I probably should balance it but
I've never used anything other than a hand file. I used to take the
blade off, but it just seemed like a waste of time.

The last thing you want is a hardened mower blade, as it would be too
brittle to be run safely at the speeds a mower blade is run at.
Instead, it is designed to deform when it strikes an unexpected item,
instead of sending chunks hither and yaw.

Jon

A good blade is made of the right steel and hardened right.
Not enough to be brittle, but to resist wear.
https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/d...wer_Blades.htm
I don't use my mower on sand or hard stuff hard stuff, so don't really
care. I touched my old blade up on the grinder every couple years.
Last year I bought this.
http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-Mulcher...pr_product_top
It mulches better, cutting the leavings so fine I don't see them
unless the grass is too long.
It's a heavy blade. Don't think I'll sharpen it on the grinder but I
might take a file to it next year. Or I might buy a new blade or
mower as mine is 10 years old and I just noticed it has a new
vibration, which means the blade is out of balance, or maybe the
engine is shot. Checked and it's not loose.
Maybe it's just old gas. Two years old, and the five gallon gas
container has had a paper towel stuck in the spout.
I'll get new gas for the next fill up.

On Sun, 11 May 2014 06:29:49 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

A lot of years ago, I drove a nail most of the way
into a wall stud in the shop. I put the blade on
the nail, horizontal like. The end that pulls down
gets ground a bit more. Some times I just hold the
blade with a screw driver.

I've read about the nail in the wall. ISTR it was suggested to mark a
level horizontal line on the wall with a level?

On Sun, 11 May 2014 06:11:01 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 05/10/2014 04:15 PM, gonjah wrote:
On 5/6/2014 11:49 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 06 May 2014 09:14:36 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote:

Per Jon Danniken:
I used a 6" bench grinder, and no blue either.

My blades are time consuming to remove/replace so I've gone over to a
little attachment to my Dremel tool: turn the mower on it's side, run
the Dremel... and it's done.

But next time I am going to finish off with a light pass perpendicular
to the edge to give it that flat area that Clare mentioned.
The "square" edge effectively provises 2 curring edges.


Mine must not be very "hardened" because I simply run the gas out and
take the spark plug out. Then I take an old hand file and run over the
blade a bit. Seems to work just fine. I probably should balance it but
I've never used anything other than a hand file. I used to take the
blade off, but it just seemed like a waste of time.

The last thing you want is a hardened mower blade, as it would be too
brittle to be run safely at the speeds a mower blade is run at.
Instead, it is designed to deform when it strikes an unexpected item,
instead of sending chunks hither and yaw.

Jon
They are generally hardened and tempered - whick allows them to keep
a reasonable edge and not shatter.

On Tuesday, July 6, 2010 3:07:50 AM UTC-4, James H. wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 23:53:26 -0700 (PDT), terry wrote:
Couple of years ago used to cost $3 to $4 around here.
Biggest job is often getting the blade off!

This video is from a very experienced lawnmower mechanic who advises
against removing the blade to sharpen it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDQ0e...eature=channel

The owners manual recommends removing the blade if it's gonna be sharpened.
Why?

Why do all the manuals recommend removing the blade to sharpen it while
this admittedly very experienced mechanic says not to bother?

It's a safety thing. You can accidentally start the motor by turning the blade if the ignition is not grounded by an off switch of some sort. It's very uncommon but you know corporations have to make safe recommendations.

On Mon, 12 May 2014 13:47:23 -0700 (PDT), jamesgang
wrote:

On Tuesday, July 6, 2010 3:07:50 AM UTC-4, James H. wrote:
On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 23:53:26 -0700 (PDT), terry wrote:
Couple of years ago used to cost $3 to $4 around here.
Biggest job is often getting the blade off!

This video is from a very experienced lawnmower mechanic who advises
against removing the blade to sharpen it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDQ0e...eature=channel

The owners manual recommends removing the blade if it's gonna be sharpened.
Why?

Why do all the manuals recommend removing the blade to sharpen it while
this admittedly very experienced mechanic says not to bother?

It's a safety thing. You can accidentally start the motor by turning the blade if the ignition is not grounded by an off switch of some sort. It's very uncommon but you know corporations have to make safe recommendations.
No, it is not an engine start issue - simply pulling the plug wire
eliminates that. It is so you don't skin knuckles, and so you can
balance the blade.

On Monday, May 12, 2014 4:47:23 PM UTC-4, jamesgang wrote:
It's a safety thing. You can accidentally start the motor by turning the blade if the ignition is not grounded by an off switch of some sort. It's very uncommon but you know corporations have to make safe recommendations.

One of our employees at the plant broke the pull cord. He was afraid to tell his supervisor so he started the mower the rest of the summer by pulling on the blade, until I caught him at it.

Shortly after he had a fender bender with one of the company trucks and walked away, never to return. Never did figure out what happened to him.

On Sunday, May 11, 2014 12:42:10 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 11 May 2014 06:29:49 -0400, Stormin Mormon

wrote:



A lot of years ago, I drove a nail most of the way

into a wall stud in the shop. I put the blade on

the nail, horizontal like. The end that pulls down

gets ground a bit more. Some times I just hold the

blade with a screw driver.



I've read about the nail in the wall. ISTR it was suggested to mark a

level horizontal line on the wall with a level?

You can pick up a plastic balancing widget at HD, etc.
that works well. It's two pieces. One is a tapered cone
that fits inside the center hole of the blade. The other
part is a wee little stand with wee little rod sticking
up. You put the cone into the blade, then put the blade
with cone onto the little stand part. The blade is now
essentially free moving and if it's out of balance, you
can see it. They only cost a few bucks.

On Tue, 13 May 2014 09:31:46 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

I've read about the nail in the wall. ISTR it was suggested to mark a

level horizontal line on the wall with a level?

You can pick up a plastic balancing widget at HD, etc.
that works well. It's two pieces. One is a tapered cone
that fits inside the center hole of the blade. The other
part is a wee little stand with wee little rod sticking
up. You put the cone into the blade, then put the blade
with cone onto the little stand part. The blade is now
essentially free moving and if it's out of balance, you
can see it. They only cost a few bucks.

I'll have look next time I'm in HD. I've never balanced a blade.
Sharpen it with a file at the bench vise - equal number of strokes on
each side.

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 11 May 2014 06:29:49 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

A lot of years ago, I drove a nail most of the way
into a wall stud in the shop. I put the blade on
the nail, horizontal like. The end that pulls down
gets ground a bit more. Some times I just hold the
blade with a screw driver.

I've read about the nail in the wall. ISTR it was suggested to mark a
level horizontal line on the wall with a level?

I also use the nail, but just put in the vise that I use to hold the blade
while I sharpen it with a file.

Take out blade and put in nail, then see which side if any is lower and put
it back in the vise and file it a stroke or two and repeat.

On Tuesday, May 13, 2014 12:54:05 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 13 May 2014 09:31:46 -0700 (PDT), trader_4

wrote:



I've read about the nail in the wall. ISTR it was suggested to mark a



level horizontal line on the wall with a level?



You can pick up a plastic balancing widget at HD, etc.

that works well. It's two pieces. One is a tapered cone

that fits inside the center hole of the blade. The other

part is a wee little stand with wee little rod sticking

up. You put the cone into the blade, then put the blade

with cone onto the little stand part. The blade is now

essentially free moving and if it's out of balance, you

can see it. They only cost a few bucks.



I'll have look next time I'm in HD. I've never balanced a blade.

Sharpen it with a file at the bench vise - equal number of strokes on

each side.

I use a hand-held grinder and I do it a few times a season.

On Monday, May 12, 2014 5:41:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 12 May 2014 13:47:23 -0700 (PDT), jamesgang

wrote:



On Tuesday, July 6, 2010 3:07:50 AM UTC-4, James H. wrote:

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 23:53:26 -0700 (PDT), terry wrote:

Couple of years ago used to cost $3 to $4 around here.

Biggest job is often getting the blade off!



This video is from a very experienced lawnmower mechanic who advises

against removing the blade to sharpen it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDQ0e...eature=channel



The owners manual recommends removing the blade if it's gonna be sharpened.

Why?



Why do all the manuals recommend removing the blade to sharpen it while

this admittedly very experienced mechanic says not to bother?



It's a safety thing. You can accidentally start the motor by turning the blade if the ignition is not grounded by an off switch of some sort. It's very uncommon but you know corporations have to make safe recommendations..

No, it is not an engine start issue - simply pulling the plug wire

eliminates that. It is so you don't skin knuckles, and so you can

balance the blade.

That's not the point. I realize you can make it safe. If they recommend sharpening it on the mower someone would not make sure it can't start and accidentally start the engine and then try to hold them liable. So they tell you to take the blade off first.

On Tue, 13 May 2014 13:18:46 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 11 May 2014 06:29:49 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

A lot of years ago, I drove a nail most of the way
into a wall stud in the shop. I put the blade on
the nail, horizontal like. The end that pulls down
gets ground a bit more. Some times I just hold the
blade with a screw driver.

I've read about the nail in the wall. ISTR it was suggested to mark a
level horizontal line on the wall with a level?

I also use the nail, but just put in the vise that I use to hold the blade
while I sharpen it with a file.

Take out blade and put in nail, then see which side if any is lower and put
it back in the vise and file it a stroke or two and repeat.


That's a great idea, the nail in the vise, and not nailed in the wall.
I'll try it next time I sharpen the blade. Thanks.

On Tuesday, May 13, 2014 2:35:41 PM UTC-4, jamesgang wrote:
On Monday, May 12, 2014 5:41:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:

On Mon, 12 May 2014 13:47:23 -0700 (PDT), jamesgang



wrote:







On Tuesday, July 6, 2010 3:07:50 AM UTC-4, James H. wrote:



On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 23:53:26 -0700 (PDT), terry wrote:



Couple of years ago used to cost $3 to $4 around here.



Biggest job is often getting the blade off!







This video is from a very experienced lawnmower mechanic who advises



against removing the blade to sharpen it.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDQ0e...eature=channel







The owners manual recommends removing the blade if it's gonna be sharpened.



Why?







Why do all the manuals recommend removing the blade to sharpen it while



this admittedly very experienced mechanic says not to bother?







It's a safety thing. You can accidentally start the motor by turning the blade if the ignition is not grounded by an off switch of some sort. It's very uncommon but you know corporations have to make safe recommendations.



No, it is not an engine start issue - simply pulling the plug wire



eliminates that. It is so you don't skin knuckles, and so you can



balance the blade.



That's not the point. I realize you can make it safe. If they recommend sharpening it on the mower someone would not make sure it can't start and accidentally start the engine and then try to hold them liable. So they tell you to take the blade off first.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but it seems to me you
have pretty much the same risk of the mower accidently starting
while removing the blade. Just for the record, I've been taking off blades
without pulling off the ignition wire for 30 years and
never had anything happen. But then I'm not dumb enough
to turn the blade, which is what you'd have to do to get compression
and spark. And mowers have had ignition kill when you release
the handle for a couple decades now anyway, so there's that.

The reason for taking it off is so you can easily sharpen it and
have easy access. I use a hand=held grinder. That or a bench grinder
won't work with the blade on the mower. And I can't imagine screwing
around with a file, and even that IMO would be a lot easier with the
blade off, so you can get at it. How do you get a file to where it
needs to go, get the angle right, and not hit the sides of the mower
deck? Don't know what kind of mowers you all have, but that's how it
works around here.

On Tue, 13 May 2014 11:35:41 -0700 (PDT), jamesgang
wrote:

On Monday, May 12, 2014 5:41:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 12 May 2014 13:47:23 -0700 (PDT), jamesgang

wrote:



On Tuesday, July 6, 2010 3:07:50 AM UTC-4, James H. wrote:

On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 23:53:26 -0700 (PDT), terry wrote:

Couple of years ago used to cost $3 to $4 around here.

Biggest job is often getting the blade off!



This video is from a very experienced lawnmower mechanic who advises

against removing the blade to sharpen it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDQ0e...eature=channel



The owners manual recommends removing the blade if it's gonna be sharpened.

Why?



Why do all the manuals recommend removing the blade to sharpen it while

this admittedly very experienced mechanic says not to bother?



It's a safety thing. You can accidentally start the motor by turning the blade if the ignition is not grounded by an off switch of some sort. It's very uncommon but you know corporations have to make safe recommendations.

No, it is not an engine start issue - simply pulling the plug wire

eliminates that. It is so you don't skin knuckles, and so you can

balance the blade.

That's not the point. I realize you can make it safe. If they recommend sharpening it on the mower someone would not make sure it can't start and accidentally start the engine and then try to hold them liable. So they tell you to take the blade off first.
An awfull lot more likely to start the engine attempting to remove
the blade. Your reasoning just doesn't wash.
More likely to spill gas out of the tank and oil out of the crankcase,
or get the cyl full of oil, than start the engine.