Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I want to finish the basement in my 1955 rambler. For the first 50
years, this house had no gutters. When we moved in there was definitely a moist basement. We put gutters up in 2005. While clearing away material from the basement walls in preparation for finishing, I discovered some crumbling near the foundation base. The concrete blocks have efflorescence. Some of the mortar joints are crumbling. The new insulation will be sprayed polyurethane foam, so it will be a perfect moisture barrier. What do you think? Is this wall too far gone? Watch my You Tube video and let me know.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIHm25scHEU |
#2
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Jun 10, 6:44*pm, Bryan Scholtes wrote:
I want to finish the basement in my 1955 rambler. For the first 50 years, this house had no gutters. When we moved in there was definitely a moist basement. We put gutters up in 2005. While clearing away material from the basement walls in preparation for finishing, I discovered some crumbling near the foundation base. The concrete blocks have efflorescence. Some of the mortar joints are crumbling. The new insulation will be sprayed polyurethane foam, so it will be a perfect moisture barrier. What do you think? Is this wall too far gone? Watch my You Tube video and let me know.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIHm25scHEU No opinions?? |
#3
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Bryan Scholtes wrote:
On Jun 10, 6:44 pm, Bryan Scholtes wrote: I want to finish the basement in my 1955 rambler. For the first 50 years, this house had no gutters. When we moved in there was definitely a moist basement. We put gutters up in 2005. While clearing away material from the basement walls in preparation for finishing, I discovered some crumbling near the foundation base. The concrete blocks have efflorescence. Some of the mortar joints are crumbling. The new insulation will be sprayed polyurethane foam, so it will be a perfect moisture barrier. What do you think? Is this wall too far gone? Watch my You Tube video and let me know.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIHm25scHEU No opinions?? One moment of patience may ward off great disaster. One moment of impatience may ruin a whole life. - Chinese proverb |
#4
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Jun 10, 6:44*pm, Bryan Scholtes wrote:
I want to finish the basement in my 1955 rambler. For the first 50 years, this house had no gutters. When we moved in there was definitely a moist basement. We put gutters up in 2005. While clearing away material from the basement walls in preparation for finishing, I discovered some crumbling near the foundation base. The concrete blocks have efflorescence. Some of the mortar joints are crumbling. The new insulation will be sprayed polyurethane foam, so it will be a perfect moisture barrier. What do you think? Is this wall too far gone? Watch my You Tube video and let me know.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIHm25scHEU It doesn't look that bad for 50+ years. If the gutters have stopped the " moist basement problem", whatever that was, I'd go ahead with what you are proposing. |
#5
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Jun 10, 6:44*pm, Bryan Scholtes wrote:
I want to finish the basement in my 1955 rambler. For the first 50 years, this house had no gutters. When we moved in there was definitely a moist basement. We put gutters up in 2005. While clearing away material from the basement walls in preparation for finishing, I discovered some crumbling near the foundation base. The concrete blocks have efflorescence. Some of the mortar joints are crumbling. The new insulation will be sprayed polyurethane foam, so it will be a perfect moisture barrier. What do you think? Is this wall too far gone? Watch my You Tube video and let me know.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIHm25scHEU Have it sand blasted clean and apply foam over the newly sound concrete. The polyurethane being well bonded to a good substrate will be a better moisture barrier. Get the grade around the house checked and corrected as necessary; considering the likely cost of the proper repairs you won't want to waste it on poor preparation. Joe |
#6
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Bryan Scholtes" wrote in message ... I want to finish the basement in my 1955 rambler. For the first 50 years, this house had no gutters. When we moved in there was definitely a moist basement. We put gutters up in 2005. While clearing away material from the basement walls in preparation for finishing, I discovered some crumbling near the foundation base. The concrete blocks have efflorescence. Some of the mortar joints are crumbling. The new insulation will be sprayed polyurethane foam, so it will be a perfect moisture barrier. What do you think? Is this wall too far gone? Watch my You Tube video and let me know.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIHm25scHEU That video looks like it could have been shot in the basement of my previous home. For 20 years I maintained and cleaned gutters, kept downspouts directing rain at least 8' away from foundation, tuck pointed and scraped peeling paint & efflorescence off the walls and never won the battle. Can't give an accurate opinion on your basement but some old foundations and basement walls just can't be waterproofed......at least not without a major investment. |
#7
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
tom wrote:
"Bryan Scholtes" wrote in message ... I want to finish the basement in my 1955 rambler. For the first 50 years, this house had no gutters. When we moved in there was definitely a moist basement. We put gutters up in 2005. While clearing away material from the basement walls in preparation for finishing, I discovered some crumbling near the foundation base. The concrete blocks have efflorescence. Some of the mortar joints are crumbling. The new insulation will be sprayed polyurethane foam, so it will be a perfect moisture barrier. What do you think? Is this wall too far gone? Watch my You Tube video and let me know.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIHm25scHEU That video looks like it could have been shot in the basement of my previous home. For 20 years I maintained and cleaned gutters, kept downspouts directing rain at least 8' away from foundation, tuck pointed and scraped peeling paint & efflorescence off the walls and never won the battle. Can't give an accurate opinion on your basement but some old foundations and basement walls just can't be waterproofed......at least not without a major investment. You CAN'T waterproof a basement wall from the inside, despite what all the ads say (or a couple regulars on here who swear by the Venice canal system in their basements.) If the outside of the block is wet on a regular basis, it WILL act like a cave down there. Proper cure is so expensive that it is seldom applied- need to dig out the backfill on the outside and replace (or install) proper waterproofing membrane, including maybe a layer of that channel stuff, and install or replace the missing or failed footer-level foundation drain. Then replace backfill with something that won't hold water against the foundation and create hydrostatic pressure problems. Not rocket surgery, merely how it should have been done in the first place. Of course, this means everything withing 3-6 feet of foundation footprint has to get out of the way for the duration of the work. Not Cheap Or Easy. But other than a wet floor from high water table or spring, it will make for a dry basement, assuming you also do the proper fixes to gutters and finish grade of yard. -- aem sends... |
#8
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I have used Thoroseal on 2 of my basements, it worked pretty good. It
seals the walls and cuts down on the dampness. I then put R-13 insulation and studs with sheetrock, never had a problem since. |
#9
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Jun 11, 3:29*am, aemeijers wrote:
tom wrote: "Bryan Scholtes" wrote in message ... I want to finish the basement in my 1955 rambler. For the first 50 years, this house had no gutters. When we moved in there was definitely a moist basement. We put gutters up in 2005. While clearing away material from the basement walls in preparation for finishing, I discovered some crumbling near the foundation base. The concrete blocks have efflorescence. Some of the mortar joints are crumbling. The new insulation will be sprayed polyurethane foam, so it will be a perfect moisture barrier. What do you think? Is this wall too far gone? Watch my You Tube video and let me know.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIHm25scHEU That video looks like it could have been shot in the basement of my previous home. For 20 years I maintained and cleaned gutters, kept downspouts directing rain at least 8' away from foundation, tuck pointed and scraped peeling paint & efflorescence off the walls and never won the battle. Can't give an accurate opinion on your basement but some old foundations and basement walls just can't be waterproofed......at least not without a major investment. You CAN'T waterproof a basement wall from the inside, despite what all the ads say (or a couple regulars on here who swear by the Venice canal system in their basements.) *If the outside of the block is wet on a regular basis, it WILL act like a cave down there. Proper cure is so expensive that it is seldom applied- need to dig out the backfill on the outside and replace (or install) proper waterproofing membrane, including maybe a layer of that channel stuff, and install or replace the missing or failed footer-level foundation drain. Then replace backfill with something that won't hold water against the foundation and create hydrostatic pressure problems. Not rocket surgery, merely how it should have been done in the first place. Of course, this means everything withing 3-6 feet of foundation footprint has to get out of the way for the duration of the work. Not Cheap Or Easy. But other than a wet floor from high water table or spring, it will make for a dry basement, assuming you also do the proper fixes to gutters and finish grade of yard. -- aem sends...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I agree. If water is comming through the blcok it will eventually defeat anything applied to the inside. Might take a while but you won't want to have that happening inside a wall over the block. If it's possible to improve the grade outside further and add drains to carry the gutter water further away you could try that for a while. If it doesn't dry up then you need to waterproof from the outside. If the water table is rising enough to cause the problem then there is not much hope. Does the floor stay dry all year? When you added the gutters did you also run drains off them well away from the house? After all those years wihtout gutters was the ground settled directly around the house? Are you able to maintain a slope away form the hosue for at least 10' all the way around the perimeter? |
#10
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 6/10/2010 11:04 PM, Bryan Scholtes wrote:
On Jun 10, 6:44 pm, Bryan wrote: I want to finish the basement in my 1955 rambler. For the first 50 years, this house had no gutters. When we moved in there was definitely a moist basement. We put gutters up in 2005. While clearing away material from the basement walls in preparation for finishing, I discovered some crumbling near the foundation base. The concrete blocks have efflorescence. Some of the mortar joints are crumbling. The new insulation will be sprayed polyurethane foam, so it will be a perfect moisture barrier. What do you think? Is this wall too far gone? Watch my You Tube video and let me know.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIHm25scHEU No opinions?? Looked OK to me but I'm just a home owner, not a contractor. I would want to see whole wall. If not badly cracked, sagging or bulging, all should be OK. |
#11
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Jun 11, 7:15*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jun 11, 3:29*am, aemeijers wrote: tom wrote: "Bryan Scholtes" wrote in message .... I want to finish the basement in my 1955 rambler. For the first 50 years, this house had no gutters. When we moved in there was definitely a moist basement. We put gutters up in 2005. While clearing away material from the basement walls in preparation for finishing, I discovered some crumbling near the foundation base. The concrete blocks have efflorescence. Some of the mortar joints are crumbling. The new insulation will be sprayed polyurethane foam, so it will be a perfect moisture barrier. What do you think? Is this wall too far gone? Watch my You Tube video and let me know.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIHm25scHEU That video looks like it could have been shot in the basement of my previous home. For 20 years I maintained and cleaned gutters, kept downspouts directing rain at least 8' away from foundation, tuck pointed and scraped peeling paint & efflorescence off the walls and never won the battle. Can't give an accurate opinion on your basement but some old foundations and basement walls just can't be waterproofed......at least not without a major investment. You CAN'T waterproof a basement wall from the inside, despite what all the ads say (or a couple regulars on here who swear by the Venice canal system in their basements.) *If the outside of the block is wet on a regular basis, it WILL act like a cave down there. Proper cure is so expensive that it is seldom applied- need to dig out the backfill on the outside and replace (or install) proper waterproofing membrane, including maybe a layer of that channel stuff, and install or replace the missing or failed footer-level foundation drain. Then replace backfill with something that won't hold water against the foundation and create hydrostatic pressure problems. Not rocket surgery, merely how it should have been done in the first place. Of course, this means everything withing 3-6 feet of foundation footprint has to get out of the way for the duration of the work. Not Cheap Or Easy. But other than a wet floor from high water table or spring, it will make for a dry basement, assuming you also do the proper fixes to gutters and finish grade of yard. -- aem sends...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I agree. *If water is comming through the blcok it will eventually defeat anything applied to the inside. *Might take a while but you won't want to have that happening inside a wall over the block. *If it's possible to improve the grade outside further and add drains to carry the gutter water further away you could try that for a while. If it doesn't dry up then you need to waterproof from the outside. *If the water table is rising enough to cause the problem then there is not much hope. *Does the floor stay dry all year? *When you added the gutters did you also run drains off them well away from the house? After all those years wihtout gutters was the ground settled directly around the house? *Are you able to maintain a slope away form the hosue for at least 10' all the way around the perimeter?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for all the help, everyone! Great questions. The floor stays very dry. In fact, there's been vinyl tile on the floor for 20+ years and it looks brand new. No peeling, chipping, etc. In fact the floor is so well adhered I'm going to keep it when I finish the basement. Too much hassle to tear up. The basement has never flooded. Ever. The gutters have 6-foot downspouts - I suppose I can extend them to 10 feet. The landscaping outside this wall is not graded well. I could do a better job of that. I am aware of the futility of waterproofing from the inside. Since the basement is mostly dry, I was surprised to see the bottom block curmbling. |
#12
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Joe wrote:
On Jun 10, 6:44 pm, Bryan Scholtes wrote: I want to finish the basement in my 1955 rambler. For the first 50 years, this house had no gutters. When we moved in there was definitely a moist basement. We put gutters up in 2005. While clearing away material from the basement walls in preparation for finishing, I discovered some crumbling near the foundation base. The concrete blocks have efflorescence. Some of the mortar joints are crumbling. The new insulation will be sprayed polyurethane foam, so it will be a perfect moisture barrier. What do you think? Is this wall too far gone? Watch my You Tube video and let me know.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIHm25scHEU Have it sand blasted clean and apply foam over the newly sound concrete. The polyurethane being well bonded to a good substrate will be a better moisture barrier. Get the grade around the house checked and corrected as necessary; considering the likely cost of the proper repairs you won't want to waste it on poor preparation. Sandblasted? 55 year old paint? Lead? Haz Mat crew! |
#13
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
UPDATE -
I went after the crumbles with a wire brush. Most of the crumbling was old paint & some patch cement that had been slapped on and decayed. Only a few parts were of much concern. In these places, the mortar had gotten very soft. It crushed like chalk. I think there was some bad mortar, or it decayed over time. Using a masonry bit, I chewed away the soft mortar. Then I enlarged the hole as prep for some hydraulic cement patch. For the worst hole, I drilled through to the block cavity and filled it with expanding foam. Then I patched with hydraulic cement after the foam cured. Overall it's not too bad, really. It wasn't widespread. The blocks were intact. It was only the mortar that was decaying. We'll see how it all turns out. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
How do I use injection resin to stabilise stairgate in crumbly wall | UK diy | |||
crumbly drywall on the ceiling | Home Repair | |||
Framed "Basement" vs. Poured Wall Basement | Home Ownership | |||
Want to Finish out wet basement - need help | Home Repair |