I have a 5 year old Trane XL14i - 3 ton I think. Yesterday I noticed
it getting warm and the blower was running, but the compressor and fan
were off. The contactor was engaged and power was getting to the
unit.

I turned everything off for about 10 minutes and then back on. Its
been working fine for 24 hrs. and register temps are right where I
expect - 62F at 110F evap temp and 90F outside temp. I'm wondering if
this is a fluke or if I have a more serious problem. What can I
check?

Bad contactor. If fan and comp are both off, the likely culprit is the
contactor.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
I have a 5 year old Trane XL14i - 3 ton I think. Yesterday I noticed
it getting warm and the blower was running, but the compressor and fan
were off. The contactor was engaged and power was getting to the
unit.

I turned everything off for about 10 minutes and then back on. Its
been working fine for 24 hrs. and register temps are right where I
expect - 62F at 110F evap temp and 90F outside temp. I'm wondering if
this is a fluke or if I have a more serious problem. What can I
check?

On Jun 1, 9:30*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Bad contactor. If fan and comp are both off, the likely culprit is the
contactor.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

...
I have a 5 year old Trane XL14i - 3 ton I think. *Yesterday I noticed
it getting warm and the blower was running, but the compressor and fan
were off. *The contactor was engaged and power was getting to the
unit.

I turned everything off for about 10 minutes and then back on. *Its
been working fine for 24 hrs. and register temps are right where I
expect - 62F at 110F evap temp and 90F outside temp. *I'm wondering if
this is a fluke or if I have a more serious problem. *What can I
check?

I agree that's the most likely. If you were able to tell it had power
was that with a meter? Next time it happens check the other side of
the contactor for 240vac. While most techs will replace a contactor
because they don't want a return call, it is possible to repair them.
Usually it is pitted and worn contacts. You can clean them up with a
small file.

I was thinking run cap, until I read both fan and comp were out. The
"turned off then on" was the other factoid.

Hope the OP is kind enough to follow up, let us know what was the
actual problem.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
news:78a286d8-cdeb-4475-a16b-9



I agree that's the most likely. If you were able to tell it had power
was that with a meter? Next time it happens check the other side of
the contactor for 240vac. While most techs will replace a contactor
because they don't want a return call, it is possible to repair them.
Usually it is pitted and worn contacts. You can clean them up with a
small file.

Yes, I checked power with a meter, but it was only incoming power and
not outgoing from the contactor. The contactor was engaged and
humming, so I assumed it was the cap, but then the fan would have been
on. I just droppd the ball there.

As a precaution, I'll clean the contacts. I'll be sure to post again
if it stops again.

Thanks all.

I agree that's the most likely. *If you were able to tell it had power
was that with a meter? *Next time it happens check the other side of
the contactor for 240vac. *While most techs will replace a contactor
because they don't want a return call, it is possible to repair them.
Usually it is pitted and worn contacts. *You can clean them up with a
small file.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Jun 1, 8:58*am, wrote:
Yes, I checked power with a meter, but it was only incoming power and
not outgoing from the contactor. *The contactor was engaged and
humming, so I assumed it was the cap, but then the fan would have been
on. *I just droppd the ball there.

As a precaution, I'll clean the contacts. *I'll be sure to post again
if it stops again.

Thanks all.



I agree that's the most likely. *If you were able to tell it had power
was that with a meter? *Next time it happens check the other side of
the contactor for 240vac. *While most techs will replace a contactor
because they don't want a return call, it is possible to repair them.
Usually it is pitted and worn contacts. *You can clean them up with a
small file.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Please turn off the power before you operate on the contacts.

On Jun 1, 9:58*am, wrote:
Yes, I checked power with a meter, but it was only incoming power and
not outgoing from the contactor. *The contactor was engaged and
humming, so I assumed it was the cap, but then the fan would have been
on. *I just droppd the ball there.

As a precaution, I'll clean the contacts. *I'll be sure to post again
if it stops again.

Thanks all.



I agree that's the most likely. *If you were able to tell it had power
was that with a meter? *Next time it happens check the other side of
the contactor for 240vac. *While most techs will replace a contactor
because they don't want a return call, it is possible to repair them.
Usually it is pitted and worn contacts. *You can clean them up with a
small file.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The caps practically never cause intermittent problems. I can see how
you might cycle it once before checking everything and then when it
started that was the end of troubleshooting. I hate intermittent
problems on any thing as they alway seem to go away right after I take
the cover off.

wrote:
Yes, I checked power with a meter, but it was only incoming power and
not outgoing from the contactor.

OK, you found the problem. Power in and no power out? There's your
problem, a bad contactor.

Sorry, I was not clear. I did NOT check outgoing power. We were on
our way out of the house and I was rushed, so I just checked to see if
I had 220V coming in and then assumed all was OK.


On Jun 1, 11:04*am, Tony wrote:
wrote:
Yes, I checked power with a meter, but it was only incoming power and
not outgoing from the contactor.

OK, you found the problem. *Power in and no power out? *There's your
problem, a bad contactor.

On Jun 1, 7:56*am, wrote:
I have a 5 year old Trane XL14i - 3 ton I think. *Yesterday I noticed
it getting warm and the blower was running, but the compressor and fan
were off. *The contactor was engaged and power was getting to the
unit.

I turned everything off for about 10 minutes and then back on. *Its
been working fine for 24 hrs. and register temps are right where I
expect - 62F at 110F evap temp and 90F outside temp. *I'm wondering if
this is a fluke or if I have a more serious problem. *What can I
check?

A few years ago my outside unit fan wouldnt kick on first try, I think
the unit was making some noise, I powered off and on a few times and
the fan came on, the tech came out and tested and replaced the
capacitor and said if I had left it for a long time trying to start I
could have burnt out the unit, its been fine for 6 years since, find
what is wrong before it leads to a bigger issue, maybe its the
capacitor

On Jun 2, 6:31*am, ransley wrote:
On Jun 1, 7:56*am, wrote:

I have a 5 year old Trane XL14i - 3 ton I think. *Yesterday I noticed
it getting warm and the blower was running, but the compressor and fan
were off. *The contactor was engaged and power was getting to the
unit.

I turned everything off for about 10 minutes and then back on. *Its
been working fine for 24 hrs. and register temps are right where I
expect - 62F at 110F evap temp and 90F outside temp. *I'm wondering if
this is a fluke or if I have a more serious problem. *What can I
check?

A few years ago my outside unit fan wouldnt kick on first try, I think
the unit was making some noise, I powered off and on a few times and
the fan came on, the tech came out and tested and replaced the
capacitor and said if I had left it for a long time trying to start I
could have burnt out the unit, its been fine for 6 years since, find
what is wrong before it leads to a bigger issue, maybe its the
capacitor

The op said that both the fan and compressor would not start. That
makes the contactor a lot more likely to be the culprit.

On 6/1/2010 7:56 AM, wrote:
I have a 5 year old Trane XL14i - 3 ton I think. Yesterday I noticed
it getting warm and the blower was running, but the compressor and fan
were off. The contactor was engaged and power was getting to the
unit.

I turned everything off for about 10 minutes and then back on. Its
been working fine for 24 hrs. and register temps are right where I
expect - 62F at 110F evap temp and 90F outside temp. I'm wondering if
this is a fluke or if I have a more serious problem. What can I
check?

I've had bugs "insects" get into contactors and keep them from closing
completely. Turning off the power to the condensing unit and manually
working the contactor will usually get rid of the dried up insect parts
without having to resort to contact cleaner. A fresh gooey bug is a lot
harder to clean out. I actually have had to clean out whole ant colonies
that have taken up residence in the control compartments of condensing
units.

TDD