The 25 year old faucet in my backyard is near failure. It squeaked when
turned and it's not a metalic squeak, but twisting-the-cork-off-a-bottle
kind of squeak, and water drips out of the handle at certain point. I have
managed to adjust it so that water is shut off and is not dripping out of
the handle.

This sillcock goes into the house in between a wall. On one side of the wall
is a kitchen cabinet, on the other side is the living room. I have to choose
one of the walls to cut an opening for repair.

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/12296239_88hEN

On the cabinet side, the height of the pipe is 1 inch from the middle shelf,
and the shelf is not made to be removable. Even if the middle shelf is
removed, it would still be a tight space to work in.

On the living room side, it is easy to cut the hole to work on the pipe, but
repairing the drywall may leave a sign of repair due to slightly mismatched
paint and texture.

Any words of wisdom?

how about cutting from the outside?
"james" wrote in message
...
The 25 year old faucet in my backyard is near failure. It squeaked when
turned and it's not a metalic squeak, but twisting-the-cork-off-a-bottle
kind of squeak, and water drips out of the handle at certain point. I have
managed to adjust it so that water is shut off and is not dripping out of
the handle.

This sillcock goes into the house in between a wall. On one side of the
wall is a kitchen cabinet, on the other side is the living room. I have to
choose one of the walls to cut an opening for repair.

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/12296239_88hEN

On the cabinet side, the height of the pipe is 1 inch from the middle
shelf, and the shelf is not made to be removable. Even if the middle shelf
is removed, it would still be a tight space to work in.

On the living room side, it is easy to cut the hole to work on the pipe,
but repairing the drywall may leave a sign of repair due to slightly
mismatched paint and texture.

Any words of wisdom?

james wrote:
The 25 year old faucet in my backyard is near failure. It squeaked
when turned and it's not a metalic squeak, but
twisting-the-cork-off-a-bottle kind of squeak, and water drips out of
the handle at certain point. I have managed to adjust it so that
water is shut off and is not dripping out of the handle.

This sillcock goes into the house in between a wall. On one side of
the wall is a kitchen cabinet, on the other side is the living room.
I have to choose one of the walls to cut an opening for repair.

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/12296239_88hEN

On the cabinet side, the height of the pipe is 1 inch from the middle
shelf, and the shelf is not made to be removable. Even if the middle
shelf is removed, it would still be a tight space to work in.

On the living room side, it is easy to cut the hole to work on the
pipe, but repairing the drywall may leave a sign of repair due to
slightly mismatched paint and texture.

Any words of wisdom?

I haven't dealt with that particular spigot, but I would expect there to be
some provision for removing the cartridge without cutting the wall. Take
off the handle and see if there is a way to remove it.

If you have to cut into the wall, I would lift the siding up with a Superbar
to gain access. You will need some caulking and nails and primer to finish,
of course.

Jon

"james" wrote in message
...
The 25 year old faucet in my backyard is near failure. It squeaked when
turned and it's not a metalic squeak, but twisting-the-cork-off-a-bottle
kind of squeak, and water drips out of the handle at certain point. I have
managed to adjust it so that water is shut off and is not dripping out of
the handle.

This sillcock goes into the house in between a wall. On one side of the
wall is a kitchen cabinet, on the other side is the living room. I have to
choose one of the walls to cut an opening for repair.

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/12296239_88hEN

On the cabinet side, the height of the pipe is 1 inch from the middle
shelf, and the shelf is not made to be removable. Even if the middle shelf
is removed, it would still be a tight space to work in.

On the living room side, it is easy to cut the hole to work on the pipe,
but repairing the drywall may leave a sign of repair due to slightly
mismatched paint and texture.

Any words of wisdom?

Cut the hole in the LR wall. Removing and replacing that inside a cabinet
like that will be a nightmare job.

And the shelf may prevent you from doing what you need to do. You won't
know until after the hole is cut.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On May 24, 1:19*pm, "james" wrote:
The 25 year old faucet in my backyard is near failure. It squeaked when
turned and it's not a metalic squeak, but twisting-the-cork-off-a-bottle
kind of squeak, and water drips out of the handle at certain point. I have
managed to adjust it so that water is shut off and is not dripping out of
the handle.

This sillcock goes into the house in between a wall. On one side of the wall
is a kitchen cabinet, on the other side is the living room. I have to choose
one of the walls to cut an opening for repair.

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/12296239_88hEN

On the cabinet side, the height of the pipe is 1 inch from the middle shelf,
and the shelf is not made to be removable. Even if the middle shelf is
removed, it would still be a tight space to work in.

On the living room side, it is easy to cut the hole to work on the pipe, but
repairing the drywall may leave a sign of repair due to slightly mismatched
paint and texture.

Any words of wisdom?

You probably can rebuild it without removing it.

On May 24, 3:38�pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 24, 1:19�pm, "james" wrote:





The 25 year old faucet in my backyard is near failure. It squeaked when
turned and it's not a metalic squeak, but twisting-the-cork-off-a-bottle
kind of squeak, and water drips out of the handle at certain point. I have
managed to adjust it so that water is shut off and is not dripping out of
the handle.

This sillcock goes into the house in between a wall. On one side of the wall
is a kitchen cabinet, on the other side is the living room. I have to choose
one of the walls to cut an opening for repair.

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/12296239_88hEN

On the cabinet side, the height of the pipe is 1 inch from the middle shelf,
and the shelf is not made to be removable. Even if the middle shelf is
removed, it would still be a tight space to work in.

On the living room side, it is easy to cut the hole to work on the pipe, but
repairing the drywall may leave a sign of repair due to slightly mismatched
paint and texture.

Any words of wisdom?

You probably can rebuild it without removing it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

and if you cant install a new water outlet in a easy spot.

just put a cap on the existing one

Trace the old one back, cut the tubing, and use that tubing to supply
the new spigot?

I'd want to shut off the water to the house, and try taking apart the
old spigot. perhaps a new faucet washer, and some plumbers grease will
bring the old silcock back to life.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...


and if you cant install a new water outlet in a easy spot.

just put a cap on the existing one

On May 24, 8:28*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Trace the old one back, cut the tubing, and use that tubing to supply
the new spigot?

I'd want to shut off the water to the house, and try taking apart the
old spigot. perhaps a new faucet washer, and some plumbers grease will
bring the old silcock back to life.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

...

and if you cant install a new water outlet in a easy spot.

just put a cap on the existing one


Is that just drywall at the back of the cabinet? If so and if you can
see how to remove the shelf, there should be enough room to work in.
With the living room approach, I'd consider how to deal with the
painting issue. Unless it's relatively new paint and you have some
or can get some, you'd likely have to paint at least the full wall.
Of course it depends on how noticeable that spot is, etc.

You could try taking the valve apart and taking the parts to a
plumbing supply. But, I've never seen a sill cock that looked like
that. It looks like there are two pipes coming out for it? Maybe
it's an old version of a freeze proof one? Others have suggested
possibly abandoning that one and installing another one in a different
location which could be an option too.

On May 24, 1:19*pm, "james" wrote:
The 25 year old faucet in my backyard is near failure. It squeaked when
turned and it's not a metalic squeak, but twisting-the-cork-off-a-bottle
kind of squeak, and water drips out of the handle at certain point. I have
managed to adjust it so that water is shut off and is not dripping out of
the handle.

This sillcock goes into the house in between a wall. On one side of the wall
is a kitchen cabinet, on the other side is the living room. I have to choose
one of the walls to cut an opening for repair.

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/12296239_88hEN

On the cabinet side, the height of the pipe is 1 inch from the middle shelf,
and the shelf is not made to be removable. Even if the middle shelf is
removed, it would still be a tight space to work in.

On the living room side, it is easy to cut the hole to work on the pipe, but
repairing the drywall may leave a sign of repair due to slightly mismatched
paint and texture.

Any words of wisdom?


Remove the cabinet to access the wall...

Cut out the drywall paneling to access the pipe...

Repair pipe/spigot as needed...

Repair hole in drywall, re-taping the joints and using joint compound
as needed sanding between coats...

Repaint the wall section behind the cabinet a the same color as
it is now... It will be less noticeable having repaired and repainted
the wall inside a cabinet than on the wall in the living room near
a corner...

Rehang the cabinet on the wall after you have repaired the pipe
and the drywall...

~~ Evan

james wrote:
The 25 year old faucet in my backyard is near failure. It squeaked
when turned and it's not a metalic squeak, but
twisting-the-cork-off-a-bottle kind of squeak, and water drips out of
the handle at certain point. I have managed to adjust it so that
water is shut off and is not dripping out of the handle.

This sillcock goes into the house in between a wall. On one side of
the wall is a kitchen cabinet, on the other side is the living room.
I have to choose one of the walls to cut an opening for repair.

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/12296239_88hEN

On the cabinet side, the height of the pipe is 1 inch from the middle
shelf, and the shelf is not made to be removable. Even if the middle
shelf is removed, it would still be a tight space to work in.

On the living room side, it is easy to cut the hole to work on the
pipe, but repairing the drywall may leave a sign of repair due to
slightly mismatched paint and texture.

Any words of wisdom?

I had a similar problem. All I wanted to do was replace the ordinary faucet
with a 1/4-turn ball valve. I put the wrench on the faucet, turned, and the
pipe collapsed! Turns out the mortar had EATEN into the galvanized pipe!

I ended up chiseling out about seven bricks to gain access to the "T" that
served the faucet. I replaced the 8" pipe leading to the faucet, covering it
first with a 1/2" thick rubber boot, and re-mortaring the bricks I had
removed.

Checking, lo and behold, the same nastiness was affecting another faucet
service. Refurbished it the same way.

About a 200-curseword job.

Therefo
1. If access from the outside is possible, you won't have the dilemma about
which you are worried.
2. I strongly suggest the 1/4-turn ball valve faucet as a replacement. They
cost more, but there's far less that can go wrong with them.